I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ' 



Iff. 






Qli 



UIJITED STATES OF AMERICA, 



s£2SSH!iM^SmSSM^^2?^^^5 



MYSTERIES 



OF 



BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED 



BEING A COMPLETE 



ANALYSIS OF THE WHOLE SUBJECT; 



COXSISTES-Q OF 



WE NATURAL HISTOKY OF BEES, DIRECTIONS FOR OBTAINING THE GREAT* 

EST AMOUNT OF PURE SURPLUS HONEY WITH THE LEAST POSSIBLE 

EXPENSE, REMEDIES FOR LOSSES GIVEN, AND THE SCIENCE OF 

"LUCK" FULLY ILLUSTRATED — THE RESULT OF MORE 

THAN THIRTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

EXTENSIVE APIARIES. 




EIGHTH EDITION; 

CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR CSDfG THE MOVABLE COMBS OF L. L. LANGSTEOTH. 



BY M. QTJINBY, 

PRACTICAL "BEE-KEEPER. 



NEW YORK: 
A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER, 

(LA.TE C. M. SAXTON <& OO.,) 



NO. 140 FULTON STE 

18 5 9. 



E T, 



SF5Z 

.Qll 



Ektcrei according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by 
H. QUINBY. 

Clerk's Office of tne District Court of the United States for the Southern 
District of New York. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

BRIEF HISTORY. 



Three kinds of Bees, 

Queen described, 

Description and Duty of Workers, 



10 



Description of Drones, 
Most Brood in Spring, 
Their Industry, . . 



. 11 
. 11 
, 12 



CHAPTER II. 



Hives to be thoroughly made, 


13 


Different opinions about them, 


14 


The Author has no Patent to recom 




mend, .... 


14 


Speculators supported long enough 


, 15 


Prefix of Patent a bad recommen 


- 


dation, .... 


15 


Ignorance of officers and commit 




tees, ..... 


15 


Opposition to simplicity, . 


16 


By gaining one point produce ano 




ther evil, . 


16 


First Delusion, 


17 


Chamber Hive, 


17 


Mrs. Griffith's Hive, 


18 


Weeks' Improvement, 


18 


Inclined Bottom-boards do no 




throw out all the worms. 


19 


Objections to suspended hives, 


19 


See bees often. 


20 


Hall's Patent, .... 


21 


Jones's Patent, 


21 


An Experiment, 


. 21 


Reason of failure in dividing hive, 


22 


Cause of starving in such hives, 


23 


Advantages of the changeable hive 




considered, . 


24 


Variation of these hives, 


25 



Expense in constructing change- 
able hives, .... 

The surplus honey will contain bee- 
bread, ..... 

Description of Cutting's changeable 
hive, 

First objection cost of construction, 

Hives can be made with less ex- 
pense, 

Old breeding cells will last a long 
time, 

Cells larger than necessary at first, 

Expense of renewing combs, 

Best to use old combs as long as 
they will last, .... 

Driving and Pruning when neces- 
sary, . 

Tools for Pruning, .... 

Use of Tobacco Smoke, . 

Further objections to a sectional 
hive, .... 

Non-Swarmers, .... 

Contrast of profit, .... 

Principle of swarming not under- 
stood, 

Not to be depended upon, 

Hives not always full before swarm- 
ing:, 



34 



37 



CONTENTS 



Size of hives needed, 

An Experiment, ..... 

Bees do not increase if full after the 

first year in same hive, . 
Gillmore's system doubted, 
Utility of moth-proof hives doubted, 
Instincts of the bee always the 

same, 

Profit the object, 

Common hive recommended, . 

Size Important, .... 

Small hives most liable to accidents, 

Apt to deceive, .... 

Unprofitable if too large, 

Correct size between two extremes, 

Size for warm latitudes, 

Larger hives more safe for long 

Winters or backward Spring, . 
2000 inches safe for this section, . 



38 



Kind of Wood, width of Board, &c. 


46 


Shape of little consequence, . 


46 


Directions for making hives, . 


47 


Size of cap and boxes, . 


43 


Miner's Hive, . 


48 


Directions for making holes, . . 


49 


A Suggestion, 


50 


Glass boxes preferred, . 


51 


Glass boxes— how made, 


51 


Guide-combs necessary, . 


52 


Wood Boxes, 


53 


Cover for Hives, .... 


54 


Jars and Tumblers — how prepared, 


54 


Perfect Observatory Hive descri- 




bed, 


55 


One like Common Hive preferred, . 


56 


What may be seen, 


56 


Directions for making Glass Hive, . 


57 


Plate for Hive, .... 


61 



C H APTE R III. 



BREEDING. 



Imperfectly Undertsood, 

Good stocks seldom without brood, 

How small stocks commence, 

Different with larger ones, 

How Pollen is stored in the breeding 



65 



Operation of Laying, and the Eggs 

described, .... 

Time from the Egg to the perfect Bee, 

Rough treatment of the young Bee, 

Guess-work, 

Terms applied to young Bees, 
Discrepancy in time in rearing brood 

as given by Huber, . 
The number of Eggs deposited by 
the Queen guessed at, 



A test for the presence of a 
Queen, . 

When Drones are reared, 

When Queens, .... 

Liability of being destroyed, . 

Drones destroyed when honey is 
scarce, 

Old Queen leaves with the first 
swarm, 

A young Queen takes the place of 
her mother in the old stock, . 

Other Theories, .... 

Subject not understood, . 

Necessity for further observa- 
tion, 

Two sides of the question, 



84 



CHAPTER IV 



BEE PASTURAGE. 



Substitute for Pollen, 
Manner of packing it, 
Alder yields the first, 
Fruit Flowers important in good 
weather, .... 



91 



Red Raspberry a favorite, . . 91 
Catnip, Mother-wort, and Hoar 

hound, are sought after, . . 92 
Singular fatality attendant on Silk- 
weed, .... 



CONTENTS. 



Large yield from Basswood, . 
Garden Flowers unimportant, 
Honey-dew, 
Singular Secretion, . 
Secretions of the Aphis, . 
Advantages of Buckwheat, . 
Amount of honey collected from 

it, ■ 

Do Bees injure the crop ? . 

Are not Bees an advantage to vege 

tation? . 
A test for the presence of Queen 

doubted, .... 



96 An extra quantity of Pollen not 

97 always detrimental, . . 107 

97 What combs are generally free 

98 from Bee-bread, . . .108 
98 Manner of packing stores, . . 108 

101 Philosophy in filling a cell with 

honey, 109 

101 Long cells sometimes turned up- 

102 ward, 110 

Is a dry or* wet season best for 

103 honey? Ill 

How many Stocks should be kept, . 112 

106 Three principal sources of honey, . 112 



CHAPTER V 

WAX. 



Is Pollen converted into Wax 
How is it obtained ? 
Huber's account of a commence- 
ment of comb, .... 117 
Best time to witness comb-making, 118 
Manner of working Wax, . . 119 



115 Are crooked Combs a disadvantage ? 120 
115 Uncertainty in weight of Bees, .122 
Some wax wasted, . . . 124 
Water necessary in Comb-mak- 
ing, 124 

Remarks, . . . . .126 



CHAPTER VI. 



What used for, . . . .128 
Is it an elaborate or natural sub- 
stance? 129 



Huber's Opinion, 
Further Proof, 
Remarks, 



129 
129 
132 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE APIARY. 



Its location, 132 Space between Hives, . . . 136 

Decide Early, 133 Small Matters, . ' . . .136 

Bees mark their location on leaving Economy, 137 

the hive, ..... 134 Cheap arrangement of stands, . 138 

Changing stand attended with Canal Bottom-board discarded, . 139 

loss, 134 Some advantage in being near the 

Can be taken some distance, . . 135 earth, 139 

Danger of setting Stocks too close, 135 Utility of Bee-Houses doubted, . 141 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Not properly understood, 
Improper Remedies, 
Difficulty in deciding, 
Weak families in most danger, 
Their Battles, .... 
Bad policy to raise the Hives, 
Indications of Robbers, . 

A Duly, 

A Test, 



ROBBERIES. 



. 142 
. 143 
. 144 
. 144 
. 145 
. 146 
. 146 
. 147 
. 14T 



Robbing usually commences on a 

warm day, . . . 148 

Remedies, 149 

Common Opinion, .... 149 
A case in point, .... 149 
Further Directions, .... 150 
Common cause of commencing, . 151 
Spring the worst time, . . . 152 
No necessity to have Bees plun- 
dered in the fall, . . . 153 



154 

154 



Should be a last resort, . 

Care needed, .... 

Apparent contradiction when feed- 
ing causes starvation, . . 155 

How long it will do to wait before 
feeding, . . . .156 

Directions for feeding, . . . 157 



CHAPTER IX. 

FEEDING BEES. 

Whole Families may desert the 

Hive, 

Objections to general feeding, 



Arrangement for feeding, 
Feeding to induce early swarms, 
What may be fed, . 
Is candied honey injurious ? . 



158 
159 
159 
161 
162 
162 



CHAPTER X. 

DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 

Some in the best Stocks, . . 164 Objection Answered, . . . 169 

How Found, 165 Insufficiency of inclined Bottom- 

A tool for their destruction, . 165 board, 169 

Mistaken Conclusions, . . . 167 A Moth can go where Bees 

Objections to suspended Bottom- can, ...... 170 

board, ...... 167 Trap to catch Worms, . . . 170 

Advantage of the Hive close to the Box for Wren, .... 171 

board, 168 



CHAPTE R XI. 

PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 



Advantage of the Patent Vender, . 172 
Time of putting on— Rule, . . 172 
Making holes after the Hive is 

full, 174 

Advantage of proper arrangement, 174 
Directions for boring holes in full 

Stock, 176 



To be taken off when filled, 



. 177 



Time taken to fill a box, . . .178 
When to take off boxes part full, . 178 
Tobacco Smoke preferred to Slides, 178 
Manner of disposing of the Bees in 

the boxes, .... 179 

Bees disposed to carry away honey, 179 
Not disposed to sting, . . . 180 



Rule, 



181 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XII. 



SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 



Two things to be prevented, . . 181 
Apt to be deceived about the Worms, 182 
Their progress described, . . 182 
A Solution offered, . . . .183 



Method of killing Worms in boxes, . 188 
Freezing destroys them, . . . 180 
Objection to using Boxes before the 
Hive is full, .... 187 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SWARMING. 



Time to expect them, . . . 187 
All Bee-Keepers should understand 

it as it is, 188 

Means of understanding it, . . 188 
Inverting a stock rather formidable 

at first, 189 

Requisites before preparation of 

Queen's cells, .... 189 
State of Queen-cell when used, . 190 
State when swarms issue, . . 190 
Clustering outside not always to be 

depended upon, . . . 191 
Examinations — the result, . . 191 

Remarks, 192 

Conflicting Theories, . . .192 
Both Old and Young leave with 

swarms, 192 

Cause of the Queen's inability to fly 

suggested, .... 193 
Evidence of the Old Queen's leaving, 193 
Mr. Weeks's Theory not satisfac- 
tory, 194 

Mr. Miner not correct, . . . 195 
Particular directions for testing the 

matter, 196 

Empty Hives to be ready, . . 197 
Bottom-boards for hiving, . . 197 
Description of swarm issuing, . 198 
Manner of hiving can be varied, . 199 
Usual Methods, . . . .199 
When out of reach, . . .200 

When they cannot be shaken off, . 202 
All should be made to enter, . . 203 
Should be taken to the stand imme- 
diately, . . 203 



Protection from the Sun neces- 
sary, 203 

Clustering Bushes, .... 204 
How swarms are generally man- 
aged that leajre for the woods, 205 
Nothing but Bees needed in a Hive, 206 
Seldom go off without clustering, . 207 
Do swarms choose a location before 

swarming? .... 207 
Means of arresting a swarm, . . 208 
Some Compulsion, .... 208 
How far will they- go in search of 

a home? ..... 209 
Two or more swarms liable to 

unite, 211 

Disadvantage, .... 211 

Can often be prevented, . . . 212 
Indications of swarming inside the 

Hive, 212 

Preventing a swarm issuing for a 

time, 213 

To prevent swarms uniting with 

those already hived, . . 213 
When two have united — the method 

of separating, .... 214 
No danger of a sting by the Queen, 215 
Some precautions in hiving two 

swarms together, . . . 216 
How to find Queen when two stran- 
gers are together, . . . 217 
Boxes for double swarms imme- 
diately 218 

Returning a part to the old stock, . 218 
Method of uniting, . . . .219 
When caro is necessary, 310 



8 



CONTENTS 



Swarm-Catcher, . . . .220 
Swarms sometimes return, . . 222 
Repetition prevented, . . . 222 
Liability to enter wrong stocks, . 223 
First issues generally choose fair 
weather, 224 



After Swarms, . 

Their Size, 

Time after the first, .... 

Piping of the Queen, 

May always be heard before an 
after swarm, .... 

Time of continuance varies, . 

Time between second and third is- 
sues, 

Not always to be depended upon, . 

A Rule for the time of these issues, 



225 
225 
225 
225 



227 
227 
228 



When it is useless to expect more 

swarms, 229 

Plurality of Queens destroyed, . 229 

The Manner, 230 

Theory doubted, . . . .231 
After-swarms different in appear- 
ance from the first, when about 

to issue, 232 

Time of day, weather, &c, . . 233 
Swarms necessary to be seen, 233 

Returning after-swarms to the old 

stock, .... 235 

When they should be returned, . 235 
Method of doing it, ... 235 

More care needed by After-swarms 

when hived, .... 237 
Two may be united, . . . 237 



CHAPTER XIV. 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 

Of swarms that lose their Queen, . 238 The Result 
A suggestion and an answer, . . 239 
A disputed question, . . . 240 
A multitude of Drones needed, . 241 
The Queen liable to be lost in her ex- 
cursions, 243 

The time when it occurs, . . 243 
Indications of the loss, . . . 244 



. 245 
Age of Bees indicated, . . . 246 
Necessity of care, .... 246 
Remedy, . .... 247 

Mark the date of swarms on the Hive, 248 
Obtaining a Queen from worker 

brood, 249 

They are poor dependence, . . 249 



CHAPTER. XV. 



Principles should be understood 
Some Experiments, 
The result unsatisfactory, 
Further Experiments, 
A successful method, 
Advantages of this method, 
Artificial swarms only safe near the 
swarming season, . 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 

252 Sometimes hazardous, . 

253 Some Objections, .... 

253 Natural and artificial swarms 

254 equally prosperous, . 

256 This matter too often delay- 

257 ed, 

Is the age of the Queen impor- 

259 tant? . . . . .261 



259 



260 



261 



CHAPTER XVI. 



PRUNING. 



Different opinions as to time, 
Another time preferred, . 
not be delayed, \ 



Objection to Pruning, . . . 264 
Stocks pruned now are better for 
winter, ...» 261 



CONTEXTS 



CHAPTER XVII 



DISEASED BROOD. 



Not generally understood, 


. 266 


My own experience, 


- 267 


Description of Disease, . 


267 


The cause uncertain, 


. 268 


Remedial Experiments, . 


. 268 


Public inquiry and answers, 


. 268 


Answers not satisfactory, 


. 270 


A cause suggested, 


. 270 


Reasons for the opinion, . 


. 272 


Cause of its spreading, . 


. 273 



Not easily detected a "ifirst, . 274 

Symptoms to be observed, . -. 274 
Scalding the honey to destroy the 

poison for feeding, . . . 275 
When to examine stocks that have 

swarmed, .... 275 

Care in selecting stock-hives for 

winter, . ... 276 

Accusations not always right, . 676 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Their means of defence, 
Time of greatest Irritability, . . 278 
Proper Conduct, . . . .278 
How to proceed when attacked, . 279 
A person's breath offensive, and 

other causes, .... 279 
Their manner of attack, . . 279 



IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 

. 277 Smoker described, . 

Effect of Tobacco Smoke, 
Sting described, 
Does its loss prove fatal? 
Means of protection, 
Remedies for stings, 



281 



. 284 
. 285 



CHAPTER XIX. 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 



Are they all guilty ? 

Rats and Mice, . 

Are all the Birds guilty ? 

King-bird— one word in his favor, . 

Cat-bird acquitted, . 

Toad got clear, . . . . 

Wasps and Hornets not favored, 

Ants — a word in their favor, . 

Spider condemned, 

Wax-Moth unrivalled for mischief, 

Indications of their presence, 

Management, 

Care in turning over Hives, . 



286 
287 
288 
288 
289 



291 



297 



Other symptoms of Worms, . . 298 
When they grow larger than usual, 299 
Time of Growth, . . . .299 
Time of Transformation, . . 300 
Freezing destroys Worms, Cocoon, 

and Moth, . . . ..300 

How they pass the Winter, . . 301 
Stocks more liable to be destroyed 

last of Summer, . . . 301 
When Bees are safe, . . .302 
Means to destroy them, . . 302 

Making them drunk and their execu- 
tion by Chickens, . . .303 



She Cause, 



CHAPTER XX. 

MELTING DOWN OF COMBS. 

. 304 First Indications, 
.. 304 Prevention, . 



. SOI 



10 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XXI. 

FALL MANAGEMENT. 



First Care, 307 

Strong Stocks disposed to plunder, 307 
Bees Changeable, . . . .308 
Requisites for good Stocks, . . 308 
Great disadvantage of killing the 

Bees, 309 

Section of country may make a dif- 
ference in what poor stocks 

need, 309 

When Bees are needed, . . . 310 
Caution, . . . . • . .311 
Principal Difficulty . . .311 

How Avoided, .... 311 

Advantages of making one good 

stock from two poor ones, . 312 
Two families together will not con- 
sume as much as if separate, . 312 



An Experiment, . . - 312 

Season for operating, . . 313 

The Fumigator, . . . .314 
Directions for uniting two families, 315 
Uniting with Tobacco Smoke, . 317 

Condition of Stocks in 1851, . .318 
How they were managed, . . 318 
Cause of their superior Thrift, . 319 

Swarms partly filled pay better than 

to cut out the honey, . . 320 
Advantages in transferring, . . 320 
Another method of uniting two 

families, 321 

Uniting Comb and Honey as well as 

Bees, 822 

When feeding should be done for 

Stock Hives, . . . .325 



CHAPTER XXII 



WINTERING BEES. 



Different methods have been adopt- 
ed, 325 

The idea of Bees not freezing has 

led to errors in practice, . . 326 
Appearance of Bees in cold wea- 
ther, 326 

flow part of the swarm is frozen, . 327 
How a small family may all freeze, 327 
Frost and Ice sometimes smother 
Bees 328 



Frost and Ice in a Hive accounted 

for, 329 

The effect of Ice or Frost on Bees 

and Comb, .... 330 
Frost may cause starvation, . . 330 
Other Difficulties, . . . .330 
Further Illustrations, . . .332 
Accumulation of Faeces described 

by some writers as a disease, . 336 
The Author's remedy, . . . 337 
Burying Bees. . . . . .337 

Experiments of the Author to get 

rid of the. Frost, . . .338 
Success in this matter, . . . 338 



Bees when in the house should be 

kept perfectly dark, . . .339 
A room made for wintering Bees, . 339 
Manner of stowing away Hives, . 340 
Temperature of room, . . . 341 
Too much Honey may sometimes be 

stored, 342 

Management of room towards 

Spring, . . . . 342 

Time for setting out Bees, . . 343 
Not too many stocks taken out at 

once, 343 

Families may be equalized, . . 344 
Snow need not always prevent car- 
rying out Bees, . . . 344 
Does not Analogy prove that Bees 

should be kept warm in Winter ? 345 
The next best place for wintering 

Bees, . . . . . 346 
Evils of wintering in the open air 

considered, .... 347 
But little risk with good stocks, . 348 
Effect of keeping second-rate stocks 
out of the sun, .«'"-■• 348 



CONTENTS. 



11 



Effects of Snow considered, . 349 

Stocks to be protected on some oc- 
casions, . . . 350 



Do t'he Bees eat more wnen allowed 
to come out occasionally in Win- 
ter ? 352 



CHAPTER XXIII 



Are not Bees directed alone by in- 
stinct? . . . . .353 
What they do with Propolis, . . 353 



SAGACITY OF BEES. 

Mending broken Combs, . . . 354 
Making passages to every part of 



their Combs, 



. 355 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. 

Methods of removing Combs from Different modes of straining Honey, 358 

the Hive, 857 " Getting out Wax— different methods, 360 

CHAPTER XXV. 

PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 

Why the word luck is applied to Size of Hives important, . 367 

Bees, 362 How large Hives can be made 

Rule in taking Bees for a share, . 364 smaller, 368 

A man may sell his "luck," . . 364 Moderate weather best to remove 
First-rate stocks recommended to Bees, ..... 369 

begin with, .... 365 Preparations for transporting Bees, 370 

Old stocks are good as any if Securing Bees in the Hive, . . 370 

healthy 365 Best Conveyance, . . . .370 

Caution respecting diseased brood, 366 Hive to be inverted, . . . 371 

Result of ignorance in purchasing, 366 Conclusion, 872 



APPENDIX. 



First experience with the Movable- 
comb Hive, .... 377 
First artificial swarm, . . . 378 
How to prevent second swarms, . 378 
Loss of Queens readily ascertained, 378 
How to secure an extra swarm — a 
valuable operation for those 
who wish to increase their 
stocks to the utmost, . . 378 
How to strengthen weak stocks, . 379 
To prevent rearing too many drones, 380 
Drone-combs, containing Honey, 



should be given to a colony 

needing stores, 
Advantage in wintering. 
Directions for making Hives, 
Winter passages, .... 
Bee-hat, ... . 

How to quiet Bees for examination, 
Directions for examining combs, . 
How to hive a swarm, . 
How to transfer Bees and combs 

from common Hive into frames, 
Moving Bees, ... 



384 
384 
384 

384 



PREFACE. 



Before the reader decides that an apology 13 ne- 
cessary for the introduction of another work on bees 
into the presence of those already before the public, 
it is hoped that he will have the patience to examine 
the contents of this. 

The writer of the following pages commenced bee- 
keeping in 1828, without any knowledge of the busi- 
ness to assist him, save a few directions about hiving, 
smoking them with sulphur, &c. Nearly all the in- 
formation to be had was so mingled with erroneous 
whims and notions, that it required, a long experience 
to separate essential and consistent points. * It was 
impossible to procure a work that gave the information 
necessary for practice. From that time to the present, 
no sufficient guide for the inexperienced has appeared. 
European works, republished here, are of but little 
value. "Weeks, Townley, Miner, and others, writers 
of this country, within a few years, have given us 
treatises, valuable to some extent, but have entirely 
neglected several chapters, very important and essen- 
tial to the beginner. Keeping bees has been, and is 



2 PREFACE. 

now, by the majority, deemed a hazardous enterprise 
The ravages of the moth had been so great, and loss 
so frequent, that but little attention was given to the 
subject for a long time. Mr. Weeks lost his entire stock 
three times in twenty -five years. But soon after the 
discovery was promulgated, that honey could be taken 
from a stock without destroying the - bees, an addi- 
tional attention was manifest, increasing to a rage in 
many places. It seems to be easily understood, that 
profit must attend success, in this branch of the farm 
er's stock ; inasmuch as the " bees work for nothing 
and find themselves." This interest in bees should be 
encouraged to continue till enough are kept to collect 
all the honey now wasted ; which, compared with the 
present collections, would be more than a thousand 
pounds to one. But to succeed, that is the difficulty. 
Some eighteen years since, after a propitious season, 
an aged and esteemed friend said to me, " It is not to 
be expected that you will have such luck always ; you 
must expect they will run out after a time. I have 
always noticed, when people have first-rate luck for a 
time, that the bees generally take a turn, and are gone 
in a few years." 

I am not sure but,, to the above remarks, may be 
traced the cause of my subsequent success. It stimu- 
lated me to observation and inquiry. I soon found 
that good seasons were the "lucky" ones, and that 
many lost in an adverse season, all they had before 
gained. Also, that strong families were the only ones 
on which I could depend for protection against the 
moth. This induced the effort to ascertain causes 



PREFACE. 3 

tending to diminish the size of families, and the appli- 
cation of remedies. Whether success has attended my 
efforts or not, the reader can judge, after a perusal of 
the work. 

It is time that the word "luck" as applied to bee- 
keeping, was discarded. The prevailing opinion, that 
bees will prosper for one person more than another, 
under the same circumstances, is fallacious. As well 
might it be applied to the mechanic and farmer. The 
careless, ignorant farmer, might occasionally succeed 
in raising a crop with a poor fence ; but would be lia- 
ble, at any time, to lose it by trespassing cattle. He 
might have suitable soil in the beginning, but without 
knowledge, for the proper application of manures, it 
might fail to produce ; unless a chance application hap- 
pened to be right. 

But with the intelligent farmer the case is different : 
fences in order, manures judiciously applied, and with 
propitious seasons, he makes a sure thing of it. Call 
him " lucky" if you please; it is his knowledge, and 
care, that render him so. So with bee-keeping, the 
careful man is the "lucky" one. There can be no 
effect without a preceding cause. If you lose a stock 
of bees, there is a cause or causes producing it, just as 
certain as the failure of a crop with the unthrifty farm- 
er, can be traced to a poor fence, or unfruitful soil. 
You may rest assured, that a rail is off your fence of 
management somewhere, or the proper applications 
have not been made. In relation to bees, these things 
may not be quite so apparent, yet nevertheless true. 
Why is there so much more uncertainty in apiarian 



4 PREFACE. 

science than other farming operations? It must be 
attributed to the fact, that among the thousands who 
are engaged in, and have studied agriculture, perhaps 
not more than one has given his energies to the nature 
and habits of bees. If knowledge is elicited in the 
same ratio, we ought to have a thousand times more 
light on one subject than the other, and still there are 
some things, even in agriculture, that may yet be 
learned. 

It is supposed, by many, that we already have all 
the knowledge that the subject of bees affords. This 
is not surprising ; a person that was never furnished 
with a full treatise, might arrive at such conclusions. 
Unless his own experience goes deeper, he can have 
no means of judging what is yet behind. 

In conversation relative to this work, with a person 
of considerable scientific attainments, he remarked, 
"You do not want to give the natural history of bees 
at all ; that is already sufficiently understood." And 
how is it understood ; as Huber gives it, or in accord- 
ance with some of our own writers ? If we take Huber 
as a guide, we find many points recently contradicted. 
If we compare authors of our day, we find them con- 
tradicting each other. One recommends a peculiarly 
constructed hive, as just the thing adapted to their 
nature and instincts. If a single point is in accordance 
with their nature, he labors to twist all the others to 
his purpose, although it may involve a fundamental 
principle impossible to reconcile. Some one else suc- 
ceeds in another point, and proceeds to recommend 
something altogether different. False and contradic- 



PREFACE. 5 

tory assertions are made either through ignorance, or 
interest. Interest may blind the judgment, and spu* 
rious history may deceive. 

It is folly to expect success in bee-keeping for any 
length of time, without a correct knowledge of their 
nature and instincts; and this we shall never obtain 
by the course hitherto pursued. As much of their 
labor is performed in the dark, and difficult to be ob- 
served, it has given rise to conjecture and false rea- 
soning, leading to false conclusions. 

When / say a thing is so, or say it is not so, what 
evidence has the reader that it is proved or demon- 
strated? My mere assertions are not expected to be 
taken in preference to another's ; of such proof, we have 
more than enough. Most people have not the time, 
patience, or ability, to set down quietly with close ob- 
servation, and investigate the subject thoroughly. 
Hence it has been found easier to receive error for 
truth, than to make the exertion necessary to confute 
it ; the more so, because there is no guide to direct 
the investigation. I shall, therefore, pursue a differ- 
ent course ; and for every assertion endeavor to give a 
test, that the reader may apply and satisfy himself, 
and trust to no one. As for theories, I shall try to 
keep them separate from facts, and offer such, evidence 
as I have, either for or against them. If the reader 
has further proof that presents the matter in another 
light, of course he will exercise the right to a differ* 
ence of opinion. 

I could give a set of rules for practice, and be very 
brief, but this would be unsatisfactory. When we are 
1* 



6 PREFACE. 

told a thing must be done, most of us, like the "inquis- 
itive Yankee," have a desire to know why it is neces- 
sary ; and then like to know how to do it. This gives 
us confidence that we are right. Hence, I shall en- 
deavor to give the practical part, in as close connec- 
tion with the natural history, that dictates it, as pos- 
sible. 

This work will contain several chapters entirely 
new to the public : the result of my own experience, 
that will be of the utmost value to all who desire to 
realize the greatest possible advantages from their 



The additions to chapters already partially discussed 
by others, will contain much original matter not to be 
found elsewhere. When many stocks are kept, the 
chapter on "Loss of Queens," alone, will, with atten- 
tion, save to any one, not in the secret, enough in one 
season to be worth more in value than many times 
the cost of this work. The same might be said of 
those on diseased brood, artificial swarms, wintering 
bees, and many others. 

If such a work could have been placed in my hands 
twenty years ago, I should have realized hundreds of 
dollars by the information. But instead of this, my 
course has been, first to suffer a loss, and then find 
out the remedy, or preventive ; from which the reader 
may be exempt, as I can confidently recommend these 
directions. 

Another new feature will be found in the duties of 
each season being kept by itself, commencing with the 
spring and ending with the winter management. 



PREFACE. 7 

In my anxiety to be understood by all classes of 
readers, I am aware that I have made the elegant con- 
struction and arrangement of sentences of secondary 
importance; therefore justly liable to criticism. But 
to the reader, whose object is information on this sub- 
ject, it can be of but little consequence. 

Coxsackie, 1853. M. QUINBY. 



Since the publication of the first editions of thi? 
treatise, the writer has left Coxsackie in Greene Co., 
for St. Johnsville, Montgomery Co., N. Y. 

During the past season, the author and a few neigh- 
bors who manage according to his system, have fur- 
nished for market over 20,000 pounds of box-honey. 
This fact has been noticed, and copied extensively in 
the newspapers, as something remarkable, awakening 
much curiosity. As his address was given in connec- 
tion, he has been beset with letters of inquiry as to 
what system of bee -culture was pursued, from those 
who are not aware of the existence of this work. It 
is impossible to answer in detail by letter ; but in this 
volume every question, with many others, have been 
anticipated and fully discussed. Since the above date 
of the first edition, he has had the experience of several 
additional years, which have suggested no important 
alteration or addition. So many have tested the prac- 
ticability of his system with such uniform success, 
that he again offers it to the public with increased 
confidence. — St. Johnsville, K T., January, 1857. 

M. QUINBY. 



PREFACE TO EIGHTH EDITION. 



The Appendix now added to this work gives direc- 
tions for using, and sets forth some of the advantages 
of, L. L. Langstroth's movable-comb hive. 

Could the Author have taken his choice, its appear- 
ance would have been deferred till the result of some 
experiments now in progress had been completed. 
But the numerous inquiries for an opinion of its merits 
indicate that there is too much interest for any longer 
delay. 

At present, there is but little alteration in the body 
of the work. There will be some who still adhere to 
the common box-hive. Most of the natural history 
and practical directions apply to both hives alike, and 
will serve both classes of Bee-keepers. 

M. QUIJSTBY. 

St. Johnsvelle, Montgomeey Co., N. Y., 
January 1, 1859. 



(8) 



CHAPTEK I. 

A BRIEF HISTORY. 

THREE KINDS OF BEES. 



Every prosperous swarm, or family of bees, must 
contain one queen, several thousand workers, and, 
part of the year, a few hundred drones. 






QUEEN. 



WOltKEK. 



QUEEN DESCRIBED. 



DRONE. 



The queen is the mother of the entire family ; her 
duty appears to be only to deposit eggs in the cells. 
Her abdomen has its full size very abruptly where it 
joins the trunk or body, and then gradually tapers to 
a point. She is longer than either the drones or 
workers, but her size, in other respects, is a medium 
between the two. In shape she resembles the worker 
more than the drone ; and, like the worker, has a 
sting, but will not use it for anything below royalty. 



10 A BRIEF HISTORY. 

She is nearly destitute of down, or hairs ; a very little 
may be seen about her head and trunk. This gives 
her a dark, shining appearance, on the upper side — 
some are nearly black. Her legs are somewhat longer 
than those of a worker ; the two posterior ones, and 
the under surface, are often of a bright copper color. 
In some of them a yellow stripe nearly encircles the 
abdomen at the joints, and meets on the back. Her 
wings are about the same as the workers, but as her 
abdomen is much longer, they only reach about two- 
thirds the length of it. For the first few days after 
leaving the cell, her size is much less than after she 
has assumed her maternal duties. She seldom, per- 
haps never, leaves the hive, except when leading a 
swarm, and when but a few days old, to meet the 
drones, in the air, for the purpose of fecundation. 
The manner of the queen's impregnation is yet a dis- 
puted point, and probably never witnessed by any 
one. The majority of close observers, I believe, are 
of opinion that the drones are the males, and that 
sexual connection takes place in the air,* performing 
their amours while on the wing, like the humble-bee 
and some other insects. It appears that one impreg- 
nation is operative during her life, as old queens are 
not afterwards seen coming out for that purpose. 

DESCRIPTION AND DUTY OF WORKERS. 

As all labor devolves on the workers, they are pro- 

* The objectors to this hypothesis will be generally found among 
those who are unable to give a more plausible elucidation. Those 
who oppose the fact that one bee is the mother of the whole family, 
will probably be in the same class. 



A BRIEF HISTORY. 11 

vided with a sack, or bag, for honey. Basket-like 
cavities are on their legs, where they pack the pollen 
of flowers into little pellets, convenient to bring home. 
They are also provided with a sting, and a virulent 
poison, although they will not use it abroad when un- 
molested, but, if attacked, will generally defend them- 
selves sufficient to escape. They range the fields 
for honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct combs, 
prepare food, nurse the young, bring water for the use 
of the community, obtain propolis to seal up all crev- 
ices about the hive, stand guard, and keep out intru- 
ders, robbers, &c, &c. 

DESCRIPTION OF DRONES. 

When the family is large and honey abundant, 
a brood of drones is reared ; the number, probably, 
depends on the yield of honey, and size of the swarm, 
more than anything else. As honey becomes scarce, 
they are destroyed. Their bodies are large and rather 
clumsy, covered with short hairs or bristles. Their 
abdomen terminates very abruptly, without the sym- 
metry of the queen or worker. Their buzzing, when 
on the wing, is louder, and altogether different from 
the others. They seem to be of the least value of 
any in the hive. Perhaps not more than one in a 
thousand is ever called upon to perform the duty for 
which they were designed. Yet they assist, on some 
occasions, to keep up the animal heat necessary in 
the old hive after a swarm has left. 

MOST BROOD IN SPRING. 

In spring and first of summer, when nearly all the 



12 A BRIEF HISTORY. 

combs are empty, and food abundant, they rear brood 
more extensively than at any other period, (towards 
fall more combs are filled with honey, giving less 
room for brood.) The hive soon becomes crowded 
with bees, and royal cells are constructed, in which 
the queen deposits her eggs. When some of these 
young queens are advanced sufficiently to be sealed 
over, the old one, and the greater part of her subjects, 
leave for a new location, (termed swarming.) They 
soon collect in a cluster, and, if put into an empty 
hive, commence anew their labors ; constructing 
combs, rearing brood, and storing honey, to be aban- 
doned on the succeeding year for another tenement. 
One in a hundred may do it the same season, if the 
hive is filled and crowded again in time to warrant 
it. Only large early swarms do this. 

THEIR INDUSTRY. 

Industry belongs to their nature, When the flow- 
ers yield honey, and the weather is fine, they need no 
impulse from man to perform their part. When their 
tenement is supplied with all things necessary to reach 
another spring, or their store-house full, and no neces' 
sity or room for an addition, and we supply them with 
more space, they assiduously toil to fill it up. Rather 
than to waste time in idleness, during a bounteous 
yield of honey, they have been known to deposit their 
surplus in combs outside the hive, or under the stand. 
This natural industrious habit lies at the foundation 
of all the advantages in bee-keeping ; consequently 
our hives must be constructed with this end in view ; 



HIVES. 13 

and at the same time not interfere with other points 
of their nature ; but this subject will be discussed in 
the next chapter. Those peculiar traits in their na- 
ture, mentioned in this, will be more fully discussed 
in different parts of this work, as they appear to be 
called for, and where proof will be offered to sustain 
the positions here assumed, which as yet are nothing 
more than mere assertions. 



CHAPTER II. 

HIVES. 
HIVES TO BE THOROUGHLY MADE. 

Hives should be constructed of good materials, 
boards of good thickness, free from flaws and cracks, 
well fitted and thoroughly nailed. 

The time of making them is not very particular, 
providing it is done in season. It certainly should not 
be put off till the swarming period, to be made as 
wanted, because if they are to be painted, it should be 
done as long as possible before, as the rank smell of 
oil and paint, just applied, might be offensive to 
the bees. 

But what kind of hive shall be made ? 

In answer, some less than a thousand forms have 
been given. The advantages of bee-keeping depend 
as much upon the construction of hives, as any one 
thing; yet there is no subject pertaining to them on 



14 HIVES. 

which there is such a variety of opinions, and I have 
but little hopes of reconciling all these conflicting 
views, opinions, prejudices, and interests. 

DIFFERENT OPINIONS ABOUT THEM. 

One is in favor of the old box, and the cruel prac- 
tice of killing the bees to obtain the honey, as the 
only means to obtain "luck ;" " they are sure to run out 
if they meddle with them." Another will rush to the 
opposite extreme, and advocate all the extravagant 
fancies of the itinerant patent-vender, as the ne plus 
ultra of all hives, when perhaps it would be worth 
more for fire- wood than the apiary. 

THE AUTHOR HAS NO PATENT TO RECOMMEND. 

To remove from the mind of the reader all appre- 
hension that I am about condemning one patent to 
recommend another, I would say in the beginning, that 
I have no patent to praise, no interest in deceiving, and I 
hope no prejudices to influence me, in advocating or 
condemning any system. I wish to make bee-keeping 
plain, simple, economical, and profitable ; so that w r hen 
we sum up the profit "it shall not be found in the 
other pocket." 

It is a principle recognized by our statute, that no 
person is suitable as a Juror, who is biased either by 
interest or prejudice. Now whether I am the impar- 
tial Jurist, is not for me to say : but I wish to discuss 
the subject fairly., I hope some few will be enabled to 
see their own interest : at any rate, dismiss prejudice, 



HIVES. 15 

as far as possible, while we examine wherein one class 
in community is unprofitable to bee-keepers. 

SPECULATORS SUPPORTED LONG ENOUGH. 

We have faithfully supported a host of speculators 
on our business for a long time ; often not caring one 
straw about our success, after pocketing the fee of 
successful "humbuggery." One is no sooner gone, 
than we are beset by another, with something 
altogether different, and of course the acme of per- 
fection. 

PREFIX OF PATENT A BAD RECOMMENDATION. 

This has been done until the very prefix of patent, 
or premium, attached to a hive, renders it almost 
certain that there must be something deleterious to 
the apiarian ; either in expense of construction or 
intricate and perplexing in management, requiring 
an engineer to manage, and a skilful architect to con- 
struct. 

What does the American savage, who without 
difficulty can track the panther or wolf, know of 
the principles of chemistry ? What does the Chemist 
know of following a track in the forest, when nothing 
but withered leaves can guide him ? Each understands 
principles, the minutice of which the other never 
dreamed. 

IGNORANCE OF OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES. 

Thus it appears to be with granting patents and 
premiums, if we take what has been patented and 



16 HIVES. 

praised by our committees and officers as improvements 
in bee-culture. These men may be capable, intelligent, 
and well fitted for their sphere, but in bee matters, 
about as capable of judging, as the Hottentot would 
be of the merits of an intricate steam-engine. Know- 
ledge and experience are the only qualifications com- 
petent to decide. 

OPPOSITION TO SIMPLICITY. 

I am aware that among the thousands whose direct 
interest is opposed to my simple, plain manner of get- 
ting along, many will be ready to contend with me 
for every departure from their patent, improved or pre- 
mium hives, as the case may be. 

BY GAINING ONE POINT, PRODUCE ANOTHER EVIL. 

I think it will be an easy matter to show that every 
departure from simplicity to gain one point, is attend- 
ed in another by a correspondent evil, that often ex- 
ceeds the advantage gained. That we have made 
vast improvements in art and science, and in every de- 
partment of human affairs, no one will deny ; conse- 
quently, it is assumed we must correspondingly im- 
prove in a bee-hive ; forgetting that nature has fixed 
limits to the instinct of the bee, beyond which she 
will not go ! 

It will be necessary to point out the advantages 
and objections to these pretended improvements, and 
then we will see if we cannot avoid the objections, 
and retain the advantages, without the expense, by a sim- 
ple addition to the common hive ; because if we ex- 



HIVES. 17 

pect to encourage bee-keeping, they must have better 
success than a neighbor of mine, who expended fifty- 
dollars for bees and a patent, and lost all in three 
years ! Most bee-keepers are farmers ; very few are 
engineers sufficient to work them successfully. I 
would say to all such as do not understand the nature 
of bees, adhere to simplicity until you do, and then 
I am quite sure you will have no desire for a change. 

FIRST DELUSION. 

Probably the first delusion in the patent line ori- 
ginated with the idea, that to obtain surplus honey, it 
was absolutely necessary to have a chamber hive. To 
get rid of the depredations of mice, the suspended 
hive was contrived. The inclined bottom-board was 
then added to throw out the worms. To prevent the 
combs from sliding down, the lower end was con- 
tracted. 

The principle of bees rearing queens from worker- 
eggs when destitute, gave rise to the dividing hive in 
several forms. Comb, when used several years, be- 
comes thickened and black, and needs changing; hence 
the changeable hives. Non-swarmers have been in- 
troduced to save risk and trouble. Moth-proof hives 
to prevent the ravages of worms, &c, &c. 

CHAMBER HIVE. 

The chamber hive is made with two apartments ; 
the lower and largest is for the permanent residence 
of the bees, the upper or chamber for the boxes. Its 
merits are these : the chamber affords all the protec- 



18 HIVES. 

tion necessary for glass boxes ; considered as a cover, 
it is never lost. Its demerits are inconvenience in 
handling ; it occupies more room if put in the house 
in the winter ; if glass boxes are used, only one end 
can be seen, and this may be full when the other may 
hold some pounds yet, and we cannot possibly know 
until it is taken out. I know we are told to return 
such boxes when not full " and the bees will soon finish 
them," but this will depend on the yield of honey at 
the time ; if abundant, it will be filled ; if not, they 
will be very likely to take a hint, and remove below 
what there is in the box ; whereas if the chamber was 
separate from the hive, and was not a chamber but a 
loose cap to cover the boxes, it could be raised at any 
time without disturbing a single bee, and the precise 
time of the boxes being filled ascertained, (that is, when 
they are of glass.) 

mrs. Griffith's hive. 
Mrs. Griffith, of ISTew Jersey, is said to have invented 
the suspended chamber hive with the inclined bottom- 
board. One would suppose this was sufficiently in- 
convenient to use, and difficult and expensive to con- 
struct. 

weeks' improvement. 
Yet Mr. Weeks makes an alteration, calls it an 
improvement, the expense is but a trifle more; it 
is sufficient to be sanctioned by a patent. From front 
to rear, the bottom is about three inches narrower than 
the top, somewhat wedge-shape ; it has the merit to 



HIVES. 19 

prevent the combs from slipping down, when they 
happen to be made, to have the edges supported. The 
objections are, that filth from the bees will not fall as 
readily to the bottom as if every side was perpendicu- 
lar, and the extra trouble in constructing. 

INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARDS DO NOT THROW OUT ALL THE WORMS, 

Inclined bottom-boards form the basis of one or two 
patents, said to be good to roll out the worms. I can 
imagine a pea rolling off such a board ; but a worm 
is not often found in a rolling condition. Most of us 
know, that when a worm drops from the combs, it is 
like the spider, with a thread attached above. The 
only way that I can imagine one to be thrown out by 
these boards, is to have it dead when it strikes it, or 
so cold that it cannot spin a thread, and wind to shake 
the board, till it rolls off. . The objections to these 
boards are coupled with the suspended hive, with 
which they are usually connected. 

OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED HIVES. 

All suspended hives must be objectionable lo any one 
who wishes to know the true condition of his bees at 
all times. Only think of the trouble of unhooking the 
bottom-board, and getting down on your back, or 
twisting your neck till your head is dizzy, to look up 
among the combs, and then see nothing satisfactory 
for want of light ; or to lift the hive from its support- 
ers, and turn it over. The operation is too formida- 
ble for an indolent man, or one that has much other 
business. The examination would very probably be 



20 HIVES. 

put off till quite sure it would do no longer, and some- 
times a few days after that, when you will very often 
find your bees past remedy. 

SEE BEES OFTEN. 

" See your bees often, 11 is a choice recipe, — it is worth 
five hundred dollars at interest, even when you have 
but few stocks. How necessary then that we have 
every facility for a close and minute inspection. How 
much easier to turn up a hive that simply rests on a 
stand. Sometimes it is necessary to turn the hive 
even bottom up, and let the rays of the sun directly 
among the combs, to see all the particulars. By this 
close inspection, I have often ascertained the cause of 
some difficulty, and provided a remedy, thus saving a 
good many that in a short time would have been lost ; 
yet, with a little help, were as valuable as any by 
another year. 

HALL'S PATENT. 

Mr. Hall has added a lower section to his hive, 
about four inches deep, with two boards inside, like 
the roof of a house, to discharge the worms, &e. ; but 
as these boards would interfere with close inspection, 
they are objectionable. Several other variations of 
inclined bottom-boards and suspended hives have 
been contrived, to obtain a patent, but the objections 
offered will apply to most of them. I shall not weary 
the reader by noticing in detail every hive that has 
been patented ; I think if I notice the principles of each 
kind, it will test his patience sufficiently. 



HIVES. 21 



Jones 7 dividing hive was probably suggested by this 
instinctive principle of the bee, viz. : when a stock by 
any accident loses its queen, and the combs contain 
eggs or very young larva?, they will rear another. 
Now if a hive is constructed so as to divide the brood- 
combs, it would seem quite certain that the half with- 
out a queen, would raise one ; and we could multiply 
our stocks without swarms, the trouble of hiving, and 
risk of their going to the woods, &c. 

AN EXPERIMENT. 

Several years ago, I thought I had obtained a prin- 
ciple that would revolutionize the whole system of 
bee management. In 1840 I constructed such hives, 
and put in the bees to test by actual experiment, the 
utility of what seemed so very plausible in theory. 
It would appear that this principle suggested the same 
idea to Mr. Jones ; perhaps with this difference : I 
think he did not wait to test the plan thoroughly, be- 
fore obtaining his patent in '42. One vender of rights 
asserted that 63 stocks were made from one in three 
years ; but somehow a great many that obtained the 
rights, failed in their expectations. From my ex- 
periments, I think I could guess at some of the rea- 
sons. 

Mr. A. — "Well, what are -the reasons? give us 
your experience, if you please, I am interested ; I had 
the right for such a hive, and had a lot made to order, 
that cost more money in the end than I shall ever pay 
again for anything about bees." 



2l 



HIVES. 



Do not be too hasty, friend, I think I can instruct 
you to keep bees on principles in accordance with 
their nature, which is very simple, so that if you can 
be induced to try again, we will have the hives cost 
but little, at any rate. 

REASONS OF FAILURE IN DIVIDING HIVES. 

The greatest difficulty with dividing hives, appeared 
to be here. It must be constructed with a partition 
or division to keep the combs in each apartment sep- 
arate ; otherwise, we make tearing work in the di- 
vision. When bees are first put into such hives, un- 
less the swarm is very large, and honey abundant, 
one apartment will be filled to the bottom before a 
commencement is made in the other. 

Mr. A. — " What difference can that make ? It is 
necessary to have the hive full ; if it cannot be all filled 
at once, why let them fill part." 

The difference is this. The first combs built by a 
swarm are for brood, and store-combs afterwards, as 
needed ; one apartment will be nearly filled with all 
biood-combs, and the other with store-combs and 
honey. Now in the two kinds of cells there is a great 
difference ; those for breeding are near half an inch 
in length, while those for storing are sometimes two 
inches or more ; totally unfit for breeding ; until the 
bees cut them off to the proper length, which they 
will not do, unless compelled for want of room, con- 
sequently this side of store-combs is but little used for 
brood. When such hive is divided, the chances are 
not more than one in four, that this apartment will 



HIVES. 23 

have any young bees of the proper age from which to 
raise a queen ; if not, and the old queen is in the part 
with the brood-comb, where she will be ninety-nine 
times in a hundred, one half of the hive is lost for 
want of a queen. 

Mr. A. — " Ah ! I think I now understand how I 
lost one-half of nearly every hive I divided. I 
also lost some of them in the winter ; there was plenty 
of bees as well as honey ; can you tell the cause of 
this?" 

I will guess that they starved. 

Mr. A. — " Starved ! why I said there was plenty of 
honey." 

I understood it, but nevertheless feel quite sure. 

Mr. A. — " I would like to see that made plain ; I 
can't understand how they could starve when there was 
honey !" 

CAUSE OF STARVING IN SUCH HIVES. 

I said one apartment would be filled with brood- 
combs; this will be occupied, at least partially, with 
brood as long as the yield of honey lasts ; consequent- 
ly, there will be but little room for storing here, but 
the other side may be full throughout. The bees will 
take up their winter quarters among the brood-combs. 
Now suppose the honey in this apartment is all ex- 
hausted during a severe turn of cold weather, what 
can the bees do ? If one should leave the mass and 
go among the frosty combs for a supply, its fate would 
be as certain as starvation. Without frequent inter 
yals of warm weather to melt all frost on the combs, 



24 HIVES. 

and allow the bees to go into the other apartment for 
honey, they must starve. 

The cost of construction is another objection to this 
hive, as the labor bestowed on one is more than would 
finish two, that would be much better. 

ADVANTAGES OF THE CHANGEABLE HIVE CONSIDERED. 

The value of changeable hives is based upon the fol- 
lowing principle: — Each young bee when it first 
hatches from the egg, is neither more nor less than a 
worm ; when it receives the necessary food, the bees 
seal it over ; it will then spin a cocoon, or line its cell 
with a coating of silk, less in thickness than the thin- 
nest paper ; this remains after the bee leaves it. It is 
evident, therefore, that after a few hundreds have been 
reared in a cell, and each one has left its cocoon, that 
such cell must be somewhat diminished, although the 
thickness of a dozen cocoons could not be measured ; 
and this old cell needs removing, that the bees may 
replace it with a new one. But how shall it be done ? 
This is a feat for the display of ingenuity. A common 
man might go about it in a very sensible, simple man- 
ner, might possibly turn the hive over, and cut out the 
old combs when necessary, without knowing perhaps 
that the patent- vender could sell a receipt to do the 
thing scientifically, the benefit of which would be many 
times on the principle of a surgeon cutting off your 
head, to get a good chance to tie a small artery accord- 
ing to system ; or would show you a roundabout way 
of half a dozen miles to accomplish what the same num- 
ber of rods would do. Had we not ocular demonstra- 



hives. 25 

tion of the fact, we could not suppose so many varia- 
tions for the same end could be invented. But if we 
reward ingenuity, it will be stimulated to great exer- 
tions. Perhaps if we describe the merits of one or two 
of this class, the utility of this principle may be com- 
prehended. 

VARIATION OF THESE HIVES. 

First, then, the sectional hive of various patterns has 
been patented ; it consists generally of about three 
boxes, one above another ; the top of each has one 
large hole, or several small ones, or cross-bars, about 
an inch wide, and half an inch apart ; these holes or 
spaces allowing the bees to pass from one box to the 
other. When all are full, the upper one is removed, and 
an empty one put under the bottom ; in this way all 
are changed, and th*e combs renewed in three years ; 
very easily and quietly done. This is as far as a pa- 
tent-vender wishes the subject investigated ; and some 
of his customers have not gone beyond this point. As 
an offset for these advantages, we will first look at the 
cost of such hive. 

EXPENSE IN CONSTRUCTING- CHANGEABLE HIVES. 

It is as much work to construct each separate sec- 
tion, as a com mom hive ; consequently, it is three 
times the expense to begin with. It is objectionable 
for wintering bees, on the same principle as the divid- 
ing hive. I object to it on another point : our surplus 
honey will never be pure, as each section must be used 
for breeding, and every cell so used, will contain 
cocoons corresponding to the number of bees raised. 
2 



26 HIVES. 

SURPLUS HONEY WILL CONTAIN BEE-BRE.\D. 

Also pollen, or bee-bread, is always stored in the 
vicinity of the young brood ; some of this will remain 
mixed with the honey, to please the palate with its ex- 
quisite flavor. The majority will probably prefer all 
surplus honey stored in pure comb, where it will 
be with proper management. 

I will here give a full description of a hive on this 
principle, as I have the description from one of its advo- 
cates, in the Dollar Newspaper, Philadelphia: cabled 
Cutting's Patent Changeable Hive. 

DESCRIPTION OF CUTTING'S CHANGEABLE HIVE. 

"The size of the changeable hive most used in this 
section, has an outside shell, made of inch boards, 
about two feet high and sixteen and a half inches 
square, with a door hung in the rear. On the inside 
are three boxes or drawers, which will hold about one 
thousand cubic inches each, and when filled with 
honey, usually weigh about thirty-five pounds, which 
is a sufficient amount of honey to winter a large 
swarm. The sides of these drawers are made of 
boards, about half an inch thick; the tops and bot- 
toms of the lower drawers and ends of the upper 
drawers should be three-fourths of an inch, and the 
drawers should be fourteen inches high, fourteen 
inches from front to rear, and six and three-fourths 
inches wide. Two of these drawers stand side by 
side, with the third placed flatwise upon the two, 
with a free communication from one drawer to another, 
by means of thirty three-fourth inch holes on the 



HIVES. 27 

side of each drawer, and twenty -four in the bottom of 
the upper drawer, and holes in the top and bottom of 
'the lower drawers, to correspond, and slides to cut off. 
the communication when occasion may require. Thus 
we see our hive may be one hive, with communication 
sufficiently free throughout, or we may have three 
hives combined. The drawers have tubes made in 
them, (for the bees to pass and repass), which are made 
to go through the front side of the hive. The back- 
side of the drawers are doors, with glass set in them. 
These drawers set np from the bottom of the hive, 
and rest on pieces of wood, closely fitted in such a 
way, as to make a space under the drawers for the 
dirt, dead bees, and water, which collect in the bottom 
of hives in winter ; between the drawers and the out- 
side is an air space of about one-third of an inch. 

These hives, when well made and painted, will 
last many years, and those doing much in the business 
will find it an advantage to have a few extra drawers. 
Having given you some idea of the construction of 
the changeable hive, I will proceed to notice some of 
the most important reasons why I prefer this hive to 
any I have yet seen. First because the hive, being 
constructed upon the changeable principle, so that by 
taking out a full drawer, and placing an empty one in 
its stead, our comb is always kept new, wherefore, the 
size of the bee is preserved, and kept in a more 
healthy, or prosperous state, or condition, than when 
obliged to remain and continue to breed, in the old 
comb, when the cells have become small. Secondly, 
because small, late swarms may be easily united. 



28 HIVES. 

Thirdly, because large swarms may be easily divided. 
Fourthly, because however late a swarm may come 
off, it may be easily supplied with honey for the 
winter, by taking from a full hive a surplus drawer, 
and placing it in the hive of the late swarm. Fifthly, 
because a column of air between the drawers and the 
outside of the hive is a non-conductor of both heat 
and cold, preventing the melting of the comb, and se- 
curing the bees against frost and cold." 

Now here is a full description of perhaps as good a 
hive as any of its class ; it is given for the benefit of 
those who wish to go miles instead of rods ; they may 
know the road^especially as they can have the privi- 
lege by paying for it : for myself, I had rather be ex- 
cused, — why, reading the description has nearly ex- 
hausted my patience ; what should I do if I attempted 
to make one ? 



FIRST OBJECTION, COST OF CONSTUCTION. 

The first obstacle in the way (after the right is ob- 
tained) is the construction. Let's see ; we want inch 
boards to make the shell, three-quarter inch boards 
for the tops and bottoms of drawers, half inch for sides, 
hinges to hang a door, glass for back of drawers, 
tubes for the egress of the bees, and slides to cut off 
communication. It will be necessary to get a me- 
chanic, and a workman too. Those 108 holes that 
must be bored, must match, or it is of no use to make 
them. But few farmers would have the tools requi- 
site, a still less number the skill and patience to do it. 
What the cost might be by the time a hive was ready 



HIVES. 29 

to receive the bees, I could not say; but guess it 
might be some three or four dollars. 

HIVES CAN BE MADE WITH LESS EXPENSE. 

The one I shall recommend, without paint, will not 
cost, or need not, over 37^ cents, with cover, etc. 
Now, if we wish hives for ornament, it is well enough 
to expend something for the purpose ; but it is well 
not to refine too much, as there are limits which, if 
passed, will render it unfit for bees. Therefore, when 
profit is an object, the extra expense will or ought to 
be made up by the bees, in return for an expensive 
domicil. But will they do it ? The merits of the one 
under consideration are fully given. " First, by tak- 
ing out a full drawer and putting in an empty one in 
its stead, the combs are always kept new, and cells of 
full size." Now this fear of bees becoming dwarfs in 
consequence of being reared in cells too small, has 
done more mischief among the bees, and their owners 7 
pockets, than if the fact had never been thought, or 
heard of. 

OLD BREEDING CELLS WILL LAST A LONG TIME. 

These old cells do not need renewing half as 
often as has been represented. It is the interest of 
these patent- venders to sell rights ; this interest either 
blinds their eyes as to facts, or lulls the internal moni- 
tor of right, while acquisitiveness is gratified. The 
same cells can be used for breeding six or eight years, 
perhaps longer, and no one can tell the difference by 
the size of the bees ; I have two stocks now in their 



30 HIVES. 

tenth, year without renewal of comb. A neighbor of 
mine kept a stock twelve years in the same combs ; it 
proved as prosperous as any. I have heard of their 
lasting twenty, and am inclined to believe it. 

CELLS LARGER THAN NECESSARY AT FIRST. 

The bees seem to make a provision for this emer- 
gency, the sheets of comb are farther apart than actually 
necessary at first, the diameter of the cell is also a little 
larger than the size of the young bee requires. Of this 
we are certain — a great many young bees can be rais- 
ed in a cell, and not be diminished in size, sufficient 
to be detected. The bottom fills up faster than at the 
sides, and as they do so the bees add a little to the 
length, until the ends of these cells on two parallel 
combs approximate too close to allow the bees to pass 
freely ; before which time it is unnecessary to remove 
comb for being old. 

EXPENSE OF RENEWING COMBS. 

One important item should be considered in this 
matter, by those who are so eager for new combs. 
It is doubtful whether one in 500 ever thought of 
the expense of renewing comb. I find it estimated 
by one writer,* that twenty-five lbs. of honey was 
consumed in elaborating about half lb. wax. This 
without doubt is an over estimate, but no one will deny 
that some is used. I am satisfied of this much, from 
actual experience, that every time the bees have to 
renew their brood-combs in a hive, they would make 
from ten to twenty-five lbs. in boxes, hence I infer that 

* See Appendix of Cottage Bee-keeper, page 118. 



HIVES. 31 

BEST TO USE OLD COMBS AS LONG AS THEY WILL ANSWER. 

their time can be more profitably employed than in 
constructing brood-combs every year. I would also 
suggest that when combs have been once used for 
breeding it is the best use they can be applied to, after 
that, as the cocoons render it unfit for much else than 
a little wax. 



DRIVING AND PRUNING WHEN NECESSARY. 

But when the combs do actually need removing, I 
prefer the following method of pruning, to driving the 
bees out entirely, as has been recommended. It can 
be done in about an hour. As Ave are comparing the 
merits of different methods of getting rid of old combs, 
I shall give mine here, notwithstanding it may seem a 
little out of place. 

The best time is a little before night. The first 
movement is to blow under the hive some tobacco 
smoke (the best means of charming them I ever found) ; 
the bees, deprived of all disposition to sting, retreat 
up among the combs to get away from the smoke ; now 
raise the hive from the stand and carefully turn it 
bottom upwards, avoiding any jar, as some of the bees 
that were in the top when the smoke was introduced, 
and did not get a taste, will now come to the bottom 
to ascertain the cause of the disturbance ; these should 
receive a share, and they will immediately return to 
the top, perfectly satisfied. When so many bees are 
in the hive, as to be in the way in pruning, (which if 
there is not it is not worth it,) get an empty hive the 
size of the old one, and set it over, stopping the holes; 



32 HIVES. 

now strike the lower hive with a hammer or stick, 
lightly and rapidly, five or ten minutes, when nearly 
all the bees will be in the upper hive, and set that on 
the stand ; only a few bees will be in the way ; these 
I will warrant not to sting, unless you pinch or get 
them fast. Should diseased broody or anything make 
it necessary to transfer all the bees permanently, you 
can now set over another hive or box, and beat the 
lower hive again, when another portion will ascend ; 
jar these out in front of the first, and they will imme- 
diately enter; continue the process till all are out. 
But for pruning a few bees will not be much in the 
way, and you may proceed as follows : 



o* 



TOOLS FOR CUTTING OUT COMB. 

The broad one is very readily made from a piece of an old 
scythe, about twenty inches long, by any blacksmith, by simply 
taking off the back, and forming a shank for a handle at the heel; 
the end should be ground like a carpenter's chisel. This is for 
cutting down the sides of the hive ; the bevel will keep it close 
the whole length, when you wish to remove all the combs — it 
being square instead of rounded, no difficulty will be found in 
guiding it — it is not thick enough to mash any combs by crowd- 
ing them. The other tool is for cutting off combs at the top or 
any other place. It is merely a rod of steel three-eighths of an 
inch diameter, about two feet long, with a thin blade at right 
angles, one and a half inches long, and a quarter inch wide, both 
edges sharp, upper side bevelled, bottom flat, &c. You will find 
these tools very convenient ; be sure and get them by all means; 
the cost cannot be compared to the advantage. 

With the tools just described, you can now re- 



HIVES. 83 

move the brood -combs from the centre of the hive. 
The combs near the top and outside are used, but 
little for breeding, and are generally filled with honey ; 
these should be left as a good start for refilling, but 
take out all that is necessary, while you are about it ; 
then reverse the hives, putting the one containing the 
bees under the other; by the next morning all are up ; 
now put it on the stand, and this job is done without 
one cent extra expense for a patent to help }^ou, and 
the bees are much better off for the honey left, which 
has to be taken away with all patent plans that I have 
seen, and this, as has been remarked, is not worth 
much, occupied as it is with a few cocoons and bee- 
bread. It is worth much more to the bees, and they 
will give us pure comb and honey for it. 

USE OF TOBACCO SMOKE. 

" I would not do it for fifty dollars, the bees would 
sting me to death." Stop a moment, if you never 
tried the efficacy of tobacco smoke, you know nothing 
of a powerful agent ; this is the grand secret of suc- 
cess; without it, I admit it would be somewhat haz- 
ardous ; but with it, I have done it time after time 
without receiving a single sting, and no protection 
whatever, for either hands or face. 

But is there no difficulty with our sectional or 
changeable hive, when this feat is to be performed ? 
The combs will be made in the two drawers similar 
to the dividing hive, brood-combs in one side, and 
store-combs in the other. We wish to remove the one 
with brood-combs of course, (as that is the one where 
2* 



34 HIVES. 

the combs are thick and bad, &c.) Where will the 
queen be? With the brood-comb, where her duty is 
most likely to be ; well, this is the one we want, and 
we take it out. How is she to get back ? She must 
go back, or we have three chances in four of losing 
the stock ; but her majesty will remain perfectly easy, 
as well as some of the workers, wherever you put the 
drawer. 

FURTHER OBJECTIONS TO A SECTIONAL HIVE. 

I can see no other way but to break the box, look 
her up, and help the helpless thing home, (the chances 
of being stung may be here too.) Now, for a time at 
least, they must use the other drawer for breeding, 
where most of the cells are unfit. There is altogether 
too great a proportion of drone-cells ; these, as well 
as the other size, will nearly all be much too long, and 
will have to be cut off to the proper length, a waste of 
wax as well as labor. Another thing might be set 
down per disadvantage of Mr. Cutting's hive ; the job 
of getting a swarm into such hive, at first, I fancy 
would not be desirable to many. Now, when we strike 
the balance, putting expense, difficulties, and perplexi- 
ties on one side, and simplicity and economy on the 
other, it appears like a " great cry for little wool." 
But stop a moment, four other advantages are enu- 
merated in its "favor : second, third, and fourth are bor- 
rowed from the common hive, or are all available here 
when required. But fifthly, allows a " column of air 
between the drawers and outside of the hive, is a non- 
condur+or of heat and cold," &c. This is an advantage 



HIVES. 35 

not possessed by the common hive ; neither does the 
common hive offer such advantages to the moth, by- 
affording such snug quarters for worms to spin their 
cocoons, when they cannot be destroyed without con- 
siderable trouble. 

NON-SWARMERS. 

Here I will endeavor to be brief; I feel anxious 
to get through with this disagreeable part, where 
every word I say will clash with somebody's in- 
terest or prejudice. The merits of this hive are to 
obtain surplus honey with but little trouble, which 
often succeeds in satisfying people of its utility. The 
principal objection is found on the score of profit. 
Suppose we start with one, call it worth five dollars 
in the beginning, at the end of ten years it is worth no 
more, very likely not as much, (the chances of its 
failing, short of that time, we will not take into the 
account ;) we might get annually, say five dollars 
worth of surplus honey, amounting to fifty dollars. 

CONTRAST OF PROFIT. 

The swarming hive, we suppose, will throw off one 
swarm annually, and make us one dollar's worth of 
surplus honey, (we will not reckon that yielded by the 
first swarm, which is often more than that from the 
old stocks,) about one third of the average in good 
seasons. The second year there will be two to do the 
same ; take this rate for ten years, we have 512 stocks, 
either of them worth as much as the non-swarmer, 
and about a thousand dollars worth of surplus honey. 



36 HIVES. 

Call these stocks worth five dollars each, which makes 
$2560, all added together will make the snug little 
sum of about $3500, against $55. It is not to be ex- 
pected that any of us will realize profits to this ex- 
tent, but it is a forcible illustration of the advantages of 
the swarming hive over the non-s warmer. 

PRINCIPLE OF SWARMING NOT UNDERSTOOD. 

But many of these non-swarmers, 'tis said, can be 
changed to swarmers to suit the convenience of the 
apiarian — Colton's is one. It is asserted that it can 
be made to swarm within two days at any time, merely 
by taking off the six boxes or drawers that are very 
ingeniously attached ; as this contracts the room, the 
bees are forced out. Now I will candidly confess that 
I could never get this thing to work at all. Of this I 
am quite positive, that he (Mr. Colton) is either ignor- 
ant of the necessary and regular preparations that 
bees make before swarming, or supposes others are. 
Mr. Weeks has advocated the same principle: he says, 
" There is no queen in any stage of existence, in the 
old stock, immediately after the first swarm leaves it." 
I have examined this matter till I am satisfied I risk 
but little in the bold assertion, that not one stock in 
fifty will cast a swarm short of a week after commenc- 
ing preparations. This opinion will be adopted by 
whoever will take the trouble to investigate for them- 
selves. (The chapter on swarming will give the ne- 
cessary instructions for examining this point, if you 
wish.) 



HIVES. 37 

NOT TO BE DEPENDED UPON. 

Further, these non-swarmers are not always to be 
depended upon as such. They will sometimes throw 
off swarms when there is abundant room in the hive 
as well as in the boxes. 

HIVES NOT ALWAYS FULL BEFORE SWARMING. 

I know Weeks, Colton, Miner and others, tell us the 
hive must be full before we need expect a swarm ; but 
experience is against them. Bees do sometimes cast a 
swarm before filling the hive. From close observa- 
tion, I find when a hive is very large, say 4000 cubic 
inches, and is filled with comb, the first season, that 
such seldom swarm except in very good years. 

SIZE OF HIVES NEEDED. 

But if such hive is only half full, or 2000 inches, it 
is very common for . them to swarm without adding 
any new comb ; proving very conclusively that a hive 
that size, is sufficient for all their wants in the breed- 
ing season. When about 1200 inches only had been 
filled the first year, I have known them to add combs 
until they had filled about 1800, and then cast a 
swarm, proving also that a little less than 2000 will 
do for breeding. I have tested the principle of giving 
room to prevent swarming, a little further. 

AN EXPERIMENT. 

In the spring of '47, I placed under five full hives, 
containing 2000 solid or cubic inches, as many empty 
ones the same size without the top. I had a swarm 



38 HIVES. 

from each ; but two had added any new comb, and 
these but little. If these hives had been filled to the 
bottom with comb in the spring, it is very doubtful 
whether either of them would have swarmed. The 
only place we can put a good stock and not expect it 
to swarm in good seasons, is inside a building, where it 
is perfectly dark, and even here a few have been 
known to do it. If we could manage to get a very 
large hive filled with combs, it would perhaps be as 
good a preventive as any. All the bees that could be 
reared in one season, would have sufficient room in the 
combs ready made for their labors, and there would be 
no necessity for their emigration. " But what be- 
comes of all the bees raised in the course of several 
years ?" To this question I shall not probably be able 
to give a satisfactory answer at present. 

BEES DO NOT INCREASE, IF FULL, AFTER THE FIRST TEAR, IN 
SAME HIVE. 

I only will notice the fact, that the bees somehow 
disappear, and there is no more at the end of iive years 
than at the end of one. A stock of bees may contain 
6000 the first of May, and raise 20,000 in the course of 
the year ; by the first of the next May, as a general 
thing, not one more will be found, even when no 
swarm had issued. 

GILLMORE'S SYSTEM DOUBTED. 

Now this fact is not known by a recent patentee 
from the State of Maine, (else he supposes others do 
not,) as he recommends placing bees in a house, and 



HIVES. 39 

empty hives in connection with the one containing bees, 
and in a few years all will be full. He has discovered 
a mixture to feed bees, (to be noticed hereafter) ; this 
may account for an unusual quantity being stored by 
an ordinary sized family. He said another thing, that 
is, each of these added hives would contain a queen ! 
This would seem to explain away the first difficulty of 
the continued increase of bees, and so it would if it 
did not get into another equally erroneous ; one error 
never made another true. This idea of bees raising a 
queen, merely because they have a side box to the 
main hive, is contrary to all my experience, and to the 
experience of all writers (except himself) that I have 
consulted. If the principle is correct, why not some- 
times raise a queen in a box on the top or side for us ? 
I never discovered a single instance, where two perfect 
queens were quietly about their duties in connection 
with one hive. The deadly hostility of queens is 
known to all observing apiarians. Not having the 
least faith in the principle, I will leave it. 

UTILITY OF MOTH-PROOF HIVES DOUBTED. 

As for moth-proof hives, I have but little to say, as 
I have not the least faith in one of them. When I 
come to speak of that insect, I will show, I think, con- 
clusively, that no place where bees are allowed to enter 
is safe from them. 

Several other 'perfect hives might be mentioned ; yet 
I believe that I have noticed the principles of each. 
Have I not said enough ? Such as are not satisfied 
now would not be if I filled a volume. Our view of 



40 HIVES. 

things is the result of a thousand various causes ; the 
most powerful is interest, or prejudice. 

It is said that in Europe, the same ingenuity is dis- 
played in twisting and torturing the bee, to adapt her 
natural instinct to unnatural tenements; tenements 
invented not because the bee needs them, but because 
this is a means available for a little change. "Patent 
men " have found the people generally too ignorant of 
apiarian science. But let us hope that their days of 
prosoerity in this line are about numbered. 

INSTINCTS OF THE BEE ALWAYS THE SAME. 

Let us fully understand that the nature of the bee, 
when viewed under any condition, climate, or circum- 
stance, is the same. Instincts first implanted by the 
hand of the Creator, have passed through millions of 
generations, unimpaired, to the present day, and will 
continue unchanged through all future time, till the 
last bee passes from the earth. We may, we have, 
to gratify acquisitiveness, forced them to labor under 
every disadvantage; yes, we have compelled them to 
sacrifice their industry, prosperity, and even their 
lives have been yielded, but never their instincts. 
We may destroy life, but cannot improve or take 
from their nature. The laws that govern them are 
fixed and immutable as the Universe. 

Spring returns to its annual task ; dissolves the 
frost, warms into life nature's dormant powers. 
Flowers with a smile of joy, expand their delicate 
petals in grateful thanks, while the stamens sustain 
upon their tapering points the anthers covered with 



HIVES. 41 

the fertilizing pollen and the pistil springs from a cup 
of liquid nectar, imparting to each passing breeze 
delicious fragrance, inviting the bee as with a thousand 
tongues to the sumptuous banquet. She does not 
need an artificial stimulus from man, as an induce- 
ment to partake of the feast ; without his aid or as- 
sistance she visits each wasting cup of sweetness, and 
secures the tiny drop, while the superabundant farina, 
dislodged from the nodding anthers, covers her body, 
to be brushed together and kneaded into bread. All 
she requires at the hands of man, is a suitable store- 
house for her treasures. In good seasons, her nature 
will prompt the gathering for her own use an over 
supply. This surplus man may appropriate to his own 
use, without detriment to his bees, providing his 
management is in accordance with their nature. 

PROFIT THE OBJECT. 

To give the bees all necessary advantages, and ob- 
tain the greatest possible amount of profit, with the 
least possible expense, has been my study for years. 
I might keep a few stocks for amusement, even if it 
was attended with no dollar and cent profit, but the 
number would be very small ; I will honestly confess 
then, that profit is the actuating principle with me. 
I have a strong suspicion that the majority of readers 
have similar motives. I am sure, then, tnat all of us 
with these views, will consider it a pity, when a stock 
produces five dollars worth of surplus honey, to be 
obliged to pay three or four of it for patent and other 
useless fixings. 



HIVES. 



COMMON HIVE RECOMMENDED. 



I would not exchange the hive I have used for the 
last ten years for any patent I ever saw, if furnished 
gratis. I will guarantee that it affords means to obtain 
surplus honey, as much in quantity and in any way 
which fancy may dictate, whether in wood or glass, 
and what is more than all, it shall cost nothing for 
the privilege of using. 



SIZE IMPORTANT. 



After deciding what kind of hive we want, the 
next important point is the size. Dr. Bevan, an 
English author, recommends a size "eleven and three- 
eighths inches square, by nine deep in the clear," 
making only about 1200 inches, and so few pounds 
necessary to winter the bees, that when I read it, I found 
myself wondering if the English inch and pound were 
the same as ours. 



SMALL HIVES MORE LIABLE TO ACCIDENTS 

At all events, I think it too small for our Yankee 
bees in any place. We must remember, that the queen 
needs room for all her eggs, and the bees need space 
to store their winter provisions ; for reasons before 
given, this should be in one apartment. . When this 
is too small, the consequences will be, their winter 
supply of food is liable to run out. The swarms from 
such will be smaller and the stock much more liable to 
accidents, which soon finish them off. 



HIVES. 43 



APT TO DECEIVE. 



ll \ I can imagine how one can be deceived by such 
a »m."u? hive, and recommend it strongly ; especially 
if patented. Suppose you locate a large swarm in a 
hive near the size of Dr. Bevan's ; the bees would 
occupy nearly all the room with brood-combs ; now 
if you put on boxes, and as soon as filled put on 
empty ones, the amount of surplus honey would be 
great ; very satisfactory for the first summer, but in 
a year or two your little hive is gone. This result 
will be in proportion as we enlarge our hives, until 
we arrive at the opposite extreme. 

UNPROFITABLE IF TOO LARGE. 

If too large, more honey will be stored than is requir- 
ed for their winter use. It is evident a portion might 
have been taken, if it had been stored in boxes. The 
swarms will not be proportionably large when they do 
issue, which is seldom— but there is this advantage, they 
last a long time, and are but little profit in surplus 
honey, or swarms. 

CORRECT SIZE BETWEEN TWO EXTREMES. 

Between the two extremes, like most other cases, is 
found the correct place. A hive twelve inches square, 
each way, inside, has been recommended as the cor- 
rect size. Here are 1728 cubic inches. This, I think, 
is sufficient for many places, as the queen probably 
has all the room necessary for depositing her eggs ; and 
as the swarms are more numerous, and nearly as large 



44 HIVES. 

as from hives much larger ; also, there is room for honey 
sufficient to carry the bees through the winter, at least, 
in many sections south of 40 degrees latitude, where 
the winter is somewhat short. 

SIZE FOR WARM LATITUDES. __ 

This size will also do in this latitude (42 degrees,) 
in some seasons, but not at all in others.* Not one 
swarm in fifty will consume twenty-five lbs. of honey 
through the winter, that is, from the last of September 
to the first of April, (six months). The average loss 
in that time is about eighteen lbs. ; but the critical 
time is later ; about the last of May, or first of June, 
in many places. 

LARGER HIVE MORE SAFE FOR LONG WINTERS OR BACKWARD 
SPRING. 

About the first of April they commence collecting 
pollen and rearing their young ; by the middle 
of May all good stocks will occupy nearly, if not 
quite all, their brood-combs for that purpose, but little 
honey is obtained before fruit blossoms appear ; when 
these are gone, no more of any amount is obtained 
until clover appears, which is some ten days later. 
(I am speaking now particularly of this section ; I am 
aware it is very different in other places, where dif- 
ferent flowers exist.) Now if this season of fruit flow- 

* "When Mr. Miner wrote his manual recommending this size, 1*728 
inches, for all situations, it should be remembered he lived on Long 
Island. Since removing to Oneida County so. this State, either his 
own experience or some other cause has changed his views, as he now 
recommends my size, viz., 2000 inches. 



HIVES, 45 

ers should be accompanied by high winds, or cold 
rainy weather, but little honey is obtained ; and our 
bees have a numerous brood on hand that must befed. 
In this emergency, if no honey is on hand of the 
previous year, a famine ensues ; they destroy their 
drones, perhaps some of their brood, and for aught I 
know put the old bees on short allowance. This I do 
know, that the whole family has actually starved at 
this season ; sometimes in small hives. This of course 
depends on the season ; when favorable, nothing of the 
'kind occurs. Prudence therefore dictates the neces- 
sity of a provision for this emergency, by making the 
hive a little larger for northern latitudes, as a little 
more honey will be stored to take them through this 
critical period. From a series of experiments closely 
observed. 

2,000 INCHES SAFE FOR THIS SECTION. 

I am satisfied that 2,000 inches in the clear, is the 
proper size for safety in this section, and consequent- 
ly, profit. On an average, swarms from this size are 
as large as any. 

The dimensions should be uniform in all cases, 
whatever size is decided on. It is folly to accommo- 
date each swarm with a hive corresponding in size ; 
a very small family this year, may be very large next, 
and a very laige one, very small, &c. A queen be- 
longing to a small swarm will be capable of depositing 
as many eggs, as another belonging to a barrel full. 
A small family able to get through the winter and 
spring, may be expected by another year to be as 
numerous as any. 



46 HIVES. 

KIND OF WOOD, WIDTH OF BOARD, ETC. 

Of the kinds of wood for hives, pine is preferable, 
still other kinds will do ; I have no faith in bees liking 
one kind better than another, and less likely to leave 
on that account. Hemlock is cheaper, and used to a 
great extent ; when perfectly sound is as good as any- 
thing, but is very liable to split, even after the bees have 
been in them some time. It should be used only when 
better wood cannot be obtained. Bass wood when 
used for hives should always be painted, and then will 
be very liable to warp from the moisture arising from* 
the bees inside. When not painted outside, and allowed 
to get wet, if only for a few hours, so much moisture 
is absorbed that it will bend outward, and cleave from 
the combs and crack them. A few days of dry weath- 
er will relieve the outside of water, and the inside 
kept moist by the bees, the bending will be reversed, 
and the combs pressed inward, keeping the bees fixing 
that which will not " stay fixed." Perhaps there is 
wood as suitable or better than pine, but it is not as 
common. 

Boards should be selected, if possible, that will be 
the proper width to make the hive about square, of 
the right size. Say twelve inches square, inside, by 
fourteen deep. I prefer this shape to any other, yet 

SHAPE OF NO CONSEQUENCE. 

it is not all important. I have had some ten inches 
square by twenty in length ; they were awkward look- 
ing, but that was all, I could discover no difference in 
their prosperity. Also, I have had them twelve inches 
deep by thirteen square, with the same result. Hence, 



HIVES. 47 

if we avoid extremes, and give the required room, the 
shape can make but little difference. 

It has been recommended to plane the boards for 
hives, '■ inside and out ;" but bees, when first put into 
such hive, find much difficulty in holding fast until 
they get their combs started, hence this trouble is 
worse than useless. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HIVES. 

If hives are not desired of the cheapest possible con- 
struction, the outside may be planed and painted ; but 
it is doubtful whether strict economy would demand 
it. Yet a painted hive appears so much better, that 
it ought to be done, especially as the paint adds al- 
most enough to its durability to pay the expense. 
The color may be whatever fancy dictates ; the moth 
will not probably be attracted by one color more than 
another. White is affected the least by the sun in 
hot weather. Lime is put on as white-wash, annual- 
ly, by many, as a protection against insects. 

When hives are not painted, the grain should never 
be crosswise, having the width of boards form the 
height ; not that the bees would have any dislike to 
such, but nails will not hold firmly, they draw out in 
a few years. The size, shape, materials, and manner 
of putting together, are now sufficiently understood, 
for what I want. Sticks half an inch in diameter, 
should cross each way through the centre, to help sup^. 
port the combs. A hole about an inch diameter in the 
front side, half way to the top, is a great convenience 
for the bees to enter when coming home heavy laden. 



48 HIVES. 

It now remains to make the top, cover, and boxes, 
(the bottom-board will be described in another chap- 
ter.) The tops should be all alike ; boards fifteen 
inches square are just the right size ; three-fourths of 
an inch is the best thickness, (inch will do ;) plane the 
upper side, rabbet out around the edge of the upper 
side one inch wide, and three-eighths deep ; this will 
leave the top inside the rabbeting, just thirteen inches. 

SIZE OF CAP AND BOXES. 

A box for a cover or cap, that size inside, will fit 
any hive. The height of this box should be seven 
inches. Of course other sizes will do, but it is best to 
commence with one that we can adhere to uniformly, 
and no vexations arise by covers not fitting exactly, &c. 
I think this size is as near correct as we shall be likely 
to get; we want all the room in the boxes that the ma- 
jority of our stocks demand for storing in a yield of 
honey,* at the same time not be necessitated to give 
too much of the room in the height. They will com- 
mence work in a box five inches high, much sooner 
than one seven or eight. To give the requisite room, 
and have the boxes less than five inches high, would 
require more than thirteen inches on the top, this 
would make the hive too much out of shape ; it would 
appear top-heavy. 



Miner's Equilateral Hive has a cap somewhat small- 
er than this in diameter ; consequently, if we have the 

* I have added a side box occasionally, but it has seldom paid me 
for the trouble. 



in v r ES. 49 

requisite room, it must be in its height. But by 
making the cap of his a little larger, and a few trifling 
alterations, it would do very well for a patent. And 
if any one must have a patent hive, my advice is to 
get that ; it costs but two dollars for the right of using, 
and is nearer what we want for bees, than any I ever 
saw. I prefer rabbeting around the edge of the top, in- 
stead of nailing on a thin board the size of the inside of 
the cover, with room for a slide under it ; it affords too 
nice a place for worms to spin their cocoons. Also, 
without the rabbeting water may get under the cap, 
and pass along the top till a hole lets it among the bees. 
As for slides, I do not approve of them at all ; in shut- 
ting off communication, it is almost certain to crush a 
few bees. This makes them irritable for a week ; 
they are unnecessary for me, at least. "We will now 
finish the hive. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HOLES. 

After the top is got out as directed, strike a line 
through the centre, three and a quarter inches from 
this, make another on each side, now measure on one 
of the last lines, two and a half inches for the first 
hole, two inches for the next, and so on till five are 
marked on this, and the same number on the other 
side, ten in all ; these holes should be about an inch 
diameter, a pattern three and a quarter inches wide, 
and thirteen in length, with places for holes marked 
on it, will save time when many are made. When 
this top is nailed on, the hive is ready. A less num- 
ber of holes is often used, and one is thought by some 
to be sufficient ; experience has satisfied me that the 
3 



50 HIVES, 

more room bees have to enter boxes, the less reluc- 
tance is manifested in commencing their work in 
them ; but here is another extreme to be avoided : 
when the holes are much larger, or more of them, or 
even one very large one, the queen is very apt to go 
into the boxes and deposit her eggs, which renders the 
comb tough, dark, &c, also bee-bread is stored near 
the brood. Dr. Bevan's and Miner's cross-bar hives 
are objectionable on this account, they offer too free 
access to the boxes ; we want all the room that will 
answer, and no more. 

A SUGGESTION. 

Mr. Miner's cross-bar hive is intended to make the 
bees construct all straight combs, and probably will 
do it. But the disadvantage of bee-bread and brood 
in the boxes will not be made up by straight combs. 

For the benefit of those who have been made to be- 
lieve straight combs all important, and perhaps have 
purchased the right to make the hive, and had some 
constructed, and have found bee-bread in their surplus 
honey, I would suggest an improvement, (that is, if 
it is thought the straight combs will pay. If you have 
not the right for the cross-bar hive, and you wish to 
use it, I would say, buy the right, and remove all 
grounds of complaint with him.) Put in the bars and 
hive your bees as he directs. After all the combs are 
started, instead of setting the open bottom boxes 
(which are also unsuitable for sending to market) di- 
rectly on the bars as he recommends, take off the 
cloth, and with screws fasten on a top with ten holes, 



HIVES. 51 

that I have just described ; and then you will have 
the straight combs, and surplus honey in the boxes 
pure. 

GLASS BOXES PREFERRED. 

Having told how I make a hive, I will now give 
some reasons for preferring a particular kind of boxes. 
I have taken -great quantities of honey to market, put 
up in every style, such as tumblers, glass jars, glass 
boxes, wooden boxes with glass ends, and boxes all 
wood. I have found the square glass boxes the most 
profitable ; the honey in such appears to the best 
possible advantage, so much so, that the majority of 
purchasers prefer paying for the box at the same rate 
as the honey, than the wood box, and have the tare 
allowed. This rate of selling boxes always pays the 
cost, while we get nothing for the wood. Another 
advantage in this kind of boxes is, while being filled, 
the progress can be watched, and the time they are 
finished known precisely, when they should be taken 
off, as every day they remain after that, soils the purity 
of the combs. 

GLASS BOXES HOW MADE. 

Directions for making. — Select half-inch boards of 
pine or other soft light wood, cut the length twelve 
and three-quarters inches, width six and three-eighths 
inches, dress down the thickness to three-eighths or 
less, two pieces for a box, top and bottom, in the bot- 
tom bore five holes throughout the centre to match 
with those in the top of the hive, (the pattern used 



52 HIVES. 

in marking the top of hives is just the one to mark 
these). Next, get out the corner posts, five-eighths 
of an inch square, and five inches in length ; with a 
saw, thick enough to fit the glass, cut a channel length- 
wise on two sides, one-fourth of an inch deep, one- 
eighth from the corner, for the glass. A small lath 
nail through each corner of the bottom into the posts 
will hold them ; it is now ready for the glass — 10 X 12 
is the right size to get — have them cut through the 
centre the longest way for the sides, and they are 
right, and again the other way, five and five-eighths 
long for the ends. These can now be slipped into the 
channels of the posts, and the top nailed on like the 
bottom, and the box is ready. 

GUIDE-COMBS NECESSARY. 

It will be found a great advantage, previous to nail- 
ing on the top, to stick fast to it some pieces of guide- 
combs in the direction you wish the bees to work. 
They are also an inducement for them to commence 
several days sooner, than if they had to start combs 
for themselves ;* a piece an inch square will do; it 
is well to start every comb you want in the box; 
two inches apart is about the right distance to look 
well. To make these pieces hold fast, melt one edge 
by the fire, or candle, or melt some bees-wax, and dip 
one edge in that, and apply it before cooling ; with a 
little practice you can make them stick without diffi- 
culty. For a supply of such combs, save all empty, 

* A line of bees-wax made with a guide-plate, or other means, is 
found to be of but little use. 



HIVES. 53 

clean, white pieces you can, when removing combs 
from a hive. 

If yon have any way superior to this for making 
glass boxes, so much the better, make them so by all 
means : u The best way is as good as any." I give my 
method to be used only when better is not convenient. 
If you sell honey, I think you will find it an advantage 
to have glass boxes made in some way. Two of this 
size when full weigh .25 lbs. If preferred, four boxes 
six and three-eighths inches sqnare, can be used for a 
hive instead of two ; the expense of making is a little 
more for the same number of lbs., yet, when it is in 
market, a few customers will prefer this size. 

WOOD BOXES. 

For home consumption, the wood-box will answer 
equally well for all purposes of obtaining the honey, 
but will give no chance to watch the progress of the 
bees, nnless a glass is inserted for the purpose, and then 
it will need a door to keep it dark, or a cover over the 
whole like the one for glass boxes, may be put on. 
Wood boxes are generally made with open bottom, and 
set on the top of the hive. A passage for the bees out 
of the box to the open air is unnecessary, and worse 
than useless. They like to store their honey as far 
from the entrance as possible. Unless crowded for 
room, they will not store much there when such en- 
trances are made. 

Whether we intend to consume our surplus honey 
or not, it is as well to have the hives and covers made 
in a manner that we can use glass, when we are likely 



54 HIVES. 

to have some to spare. I am not sure, but it would 
pay to make hives in this way, even if glass boxes 
were never used ; the rabbeting prevents light as well 
as water from passing under the cover ; imagine a box 
set on a plain board nailed on for a top, without the 
rabbeting ; the warping or bending admits the light 
and water, especially when hives are out in the wea- 
ther, (and I shall not recommend any other way of 
keeping them.) 

COVER FOR HIVES. 

I have termed the cap or box a cover; but this 
should also be covered with a board laid on, if 
nothing else. A good roof for each hive can be 
made by fastening two boards together like the roof 
of a building ; let it be about 18 by 24 inches ; it being 
loose, can be changed in accordance with the season ; 
in spring, let the sun strike the hive ; but in hot wea- 
ther let the longest end project over the south side, 
&c. You can ornament this hive, if you choose, by 
mouldings or dentals, under the top, where it projects 
over the body of the hive, also the cap can have the 
top projected a little and receive the same addition. 

JARS AND TUMBLERS HOW PREPARED. 

When jars, tumblers, or other vessels, that are all 
glass, are used, it is absolutely necessary to fasten as 
many pieces of combs as you wish made, in the top, for 
a beginning, or fasten a piece of wood there ; as they 
seldom commence building on glass, without a start. 

Some of you may have seen paraded at our fairs, 



GLASS HIVES. 55 

or in the public parts of some of our cities, hives con- 
taining tumblers, some of them neatly filled, others 
empty, and this magic sentence written upon them, 
not to be filled ! Pretending to govern the bees, as the 
juggler sometimes does his tricks, by mysterious in- 
cantations ! I once encountered an agent of this hum- 
bug, and modestly suggested to him that I had a coun- 
ter charm : that I could put a tumbler on his hive 
and it would be filled if the others were, however much 
he might forbid it by written charms! He saw at a 
glance how the matter stood ; I was not the customer 
he wanted, and intimated that the show was only in- 
tended for the extreme verdancy of most visitors. It 
no doubt assisted in displaying his profound knowledge 
in bee management, which he wished to establish, as 
he had a little work on the subject to sell, also hives, 
and bees. The reader no doubt will guess as I did, 
the reason that those tumblers were not filled, was be- 
cause no combs were put in for a start. 

PERFECT OBSERVATORY HIVE DESCRIBED. 

There are many things pertaining to bees that can- 
not be properly examined and understood, without a 
glass hive of some sort. Yet a perfect observatory 
hive containing but one comb, is not a perfect hive for 
the bees. We can see very well what the bees are 
doing, but it is not a tenement they would choose if 
left to themselves. It forces them to labor in an un- 
natural manner, is unsuitable for wintering bees, and 
otherwise but little profit. If the satisfaction of wit- 
nessing some of their operations more perfectly than 



56 GLASS HIVES. 

in glass hives of another kind will not pay, it is 
doubtful if we get it. I will describe it as briefly as 
possible. Two frames or sashes about two and a half 
feet square, containing glass, are so fastened together 
as to leave room for only one comb between them, 
about an inch and three-fourths apart. A comb of 
this size will not support itself by the top and edges; 
hence, it is necessary to put in numerous cross-bars to 
assist in supporting it. Outside the glass are doors to 
keep the whole dark, to be opened when we wish to 
inspect proceedings. Under the bottom is a board or 
frame, to keep it in an upright position, &o. Probably 
but few will be induced to make one. I will therefore 
describe another; a hive that I think will pay better. 

ONE LIKE COMMON HIVE PREFERRED. 

If we expect to know what bees are doing in ordi- 
nary hives, we must have one similar in every respect, 
in size, shape, number of bees, &o. The construction 
of royal cells will be watched by most observers with 
the greatest interest ; now these are generally on one 
edge of the combs. The bees leave a space half an 
inch or more between the edges of the combs and one 
side of the hive, near half the length of it, appar- 
ently for no other purpose but to have room for these 
cells, as the other edges of the same combs are 
generally attached to the hive at the bottom. 

WHAT MAY BE SEEN. 

Now instead of having one piece or pane of glass 
in the side of several hives, I would recommend 



GLASS HIVES. 57 

having one or more with glass on every side ; because 
we might ha\e it on three sides, and not the fourth; 
and this might contain all the queen cells, and we 
should miss an important sight. There are many 
other things to be witnessed in such a hive. The 
queen may be often seen depositing her eggs! We 
may see the workers detach the scales of wax from 
their abdomen, and apply them to the combs during 
the process of construction, see them deposit pollen 
from their legs, store their honey, feed the queen, 
each other, their young brood, seal over cells contain- 
ing brood, honey, &c. It is farther useful as a guide 
for putting boxes on other hives, (that is, if it is a 
good one, which it should be) ; we can easily ascertain 
whether our bees are gaining or losing. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING GLASS HIVE. 

My method of making them is as follows : The top 
is like those for other hives, fifteen inches square, 
adapted to boxes and cover. This hive we want to 
be as profitable as any, giving us surplus honey, and 
swarms like others. Four posts are then got out, two 
inches square, and thirteen in length ; care should be 
taken to have the ends perfectly square. 

A frame is then to be made, just fourteen inches 
square outside, for the bottom ; the pieces "are one 
inch thick, by two in width, halved together at the 
corners. A guage-mark is then made around the 
ander side of the top, half an inch from the edge, a 
post is then set inside of each corner of this mark, and 
thoroughly nailed the bottom is nailed on with the 



68 GLASS HIVES. 

posts even with the outside corners. Four pieces an 
inch thick, and an inch and a half wide, are fitted be- 
tween the posts, even with the guage-mark on the top. 
Sixteen strips, about one quarter by half an inch, are 
got out, eight to be ten, and eight twelve inches long. 

A guage-mark one inch from posts, bottom, &c, is 
the place to nail these strips ; very small nails or tacks 
will hold them. The panes of glass are to rest against 
them, which are held in their places by small pieces 
of tin, or brads. The doors are the size of the glass, 
10 x 12, about three-fourths of an inch thick ; these 
doors are cut a little too short, and the pieces, to pre- 
vent warping, are nailed on the ends ; these are hung 
to a post on one side, and secured by a button on the 
other. On two opposite sides inside the posts, half 
way up, two strips, half an inch by three quarters, are 
nailed, with holes in them for the cross-sticks ; one way 
is enough if you have guide-combs for a start, like 
those recommended for boxes, so that the sheets will 
be at right angles with them ; otherwise, let the sticks 
cross both ways, about three each way will be needed, 
as the glass at the edges is not so good a support as 
wood. 

The cap can be made of half inch boards ; the top 
to project over like the hive, or let it be a little more 
than half an inch, it will admit a heavier moulding, 
which should surround it here, as well as at the top 
of the hive, or if it is prefered, dentals can be used, 
and look equally well — when no ornament is wanted, 
omit it. But painting seems necessary for such hives, 
to prevent warping, and the swelling of the doors 



GLASS HIVES. 59 

in wet weather ; these want to open and shut without 
rubbing or sticking, otherwise we disturb the bees 
every time a door is stirred. Putty should not be used 
to hold the glass, as the bees in the course of a few 
years will cover it with propolis ; it is then neces 
sary to take it out, and scrape, clean, and return it, 
when, if fastened with putty, it would be difficult ; 
cold weather is the time for this operation. I am aware 
that a hive can be more substantially made than the 
one here described ; but I have endeavored to make 
one as cheap as possible, and if properly made, will 
answer. The cost will be much less than many pa- 
tents, and the satisfaction much more, at least, with 
many. When our hive contains a swarm of bees, and 
they are thoroughly in operation, we must not let 
them pass out at the bottom on every side, as they 
are frequently allowed to do from other hives ; be- 
cause, should one come out a little excited in conse- 
quence of a slight jar, accidentally given the hive, on 
opening the door or some other way, and should find our 
face within a foot of their house, peering in the window 
among their Works, it would be very likely to give us 
a gentle hint that it was a mark of low breeding, that 
we were not wanted there at all, and that it was none 
of our business what they were doing. To prevent 
this as far as possible, a bottom-board, somewhat dif- 
ferent from the common one, is needed. Four posts 
of chestnut or other lasting wood, about two inches 
square, are driven into the earth in the form of a 
square, far enough apart to come under the corners of 
the bottom-board, (fifteen inches,) and high enough for 



60 GLASS HIVES. 

convenience when looking into the hive. The ends oi 
these posts are to be perfectly level, and to which the 
bottom is to be nailed fast. As the hive is to sit per- 
fectly close to the board, a passage must be made 
through it, as well as means for ventilation in hot 
weather, without raising the hive for that purpose. It 
requires a board about fifteen inches square, planed 
smooth, the ends clamped to prevent warping or split- 
ting ; a portion of the centre is taken out, say six 
inches by ten, and wire cloth nailed over, four-ounce 
tacks will hold it, fasten it just enough to keep the 
bees from getting through ; very likely it will want to 
be taken off occasionally and cleaned from the propo- 
lis that will be spread over it. It is is easiest done in 
freezing weather. 

Take an edge in each hand, and rock the wires a 
few times out of square, and it will readily crumble 
and fall out. In warm weather it must be scalded or 
burnt off. To close this space, a moving slide is fixed 
in grooves under-side, fastened to the posts or board. 
The slide is to be moved in accordance with the 
weather, when cold, close it, when hot, withdraw it, 
and give the bees as much air as possible, without 
raising the hive, the whole of such space is as much 
ventilation as ordinary hives raised an inch. (Wire 
cloth is needed for other purposes, it is best to pro- 
cure some, even at considerable trouble and expense.) 
On the side of the board intended for the front, two 
inches from the edge of the wire cloth, a passage is 
cut for the bees, three-eights of an inch wide, by 
eleven in length. "But how is the bees to get to 



GLASS HIVES. 



61 



this place, so inconvenient, something is needed to 
assist them?' Certainly, Sir; an alighting board, 
eleven inches wide, and about two feet long, (not 
planed), is placed at an angle of forty-five degrees, 
between the two front posts of your stand, the up pet- 
end passing under the bottom, far enough back ; to be 
just even Avith the back-side of the passage for the 



IJWIJWW 




62 BREEDING. 

bees. The bees alight on this board, and walk up into 
the hive without difficulty. When the bees are at 
work pretty freely, and a door of this hive is opened, 
those that are about departing will be very likely to 
get on the glass, instead of through the opening at the 
bottom ; seeing the light through the glass, they endea- 
vor to escape by the nearest route. When so many 
gather here as to prevent a good view, and you wish 
to observe further, shut the door a moment and they 
will leave through their own passage, when you can 
open your door again, for a short time. After the 
hive is filled with combs, the number attracted to the 
glass on opening a door will be much less. 

The plate on the preceding page represents a glass 
hive, cover, and stand. The common hive can be 
made equally ornamental, if you choose ; this kind 
of stand is unnecessary for them. I use such as are 
recommended on page 138. 



CHAPTEE III. 

BREEDING. 
IMPERFECTLY UNDERSTOOD. 

The time that bees commence raising their young 
brood is but imperfectly understood by most people. 
Many persons that have kept them for years, have 
bestowed so little attention on this point, that they are 
unable to tell at what time they commence, how they 



BREEDING. 63 

progress, or when they cease. A kind of an idea 
that one swarm, and occasionally two or three, are 
reared sometime in June, or fore part of summer, is 
about the extent of their reflections on the subject 
Whether the drones deposit the eggs, or that a portion 
of the workers are females, and each raise a young 
one or two, or whether the "king bee" is the chap 
for laying eggs, is a matter beyond their ability to an- 
swer. It is but a few years since, that a correspondent 
of a Journal of Agriculture denied the existence of a 
queen bee, giving the best reasons he had, no doubt, 
that is, he had never seen one. But bee-keepers of 
this class are so few, it is unnecessary to waste 
time to convince them; suffice it to say, that a queen 
exists with every prosperous swarm, and all apiarians 
with much pretensions to science, acknowledge the 
fact, also, that she is the mother of the whole family. 
The period at which they commence depositing 
eggs probably depends on the strength of the colony, 
amount of honey on hand, &c, and not the time 
they commence gathering food. 

GOOD STOCK SELDOM WITHOUT BROOD. 

I once removed the bees from a hive on the tenth 
of January, and found brood amounting to about five 
hundred, sealed over, and others in every stage of 
growth down to the egg. 

This hive had been in the house, and kept warm ; 
it will doubtless be supposed that being kept warm 
was the cause ; but this is not a solitary instance. A 
neighbor lost a hive the fourteenth February, in 



64 BKEEDING. 

weather cold enough to seal the entrance with ice, and 
smother the bees. I assisted to remove the combs, and 
found young brood in abundance, from the perfect 
bee, through all stages of growth. This stock had 
been in the cold all winter. I have further noticed, 
*vhen sweeping out the litter under the hives early in 
spring, say the first of March, that young bees would 
often be found under the best stocks. Hence it ap- 
pears there is but little time, and perhaps none, when 
our best stocks have no brood. Yet stocks, when 
very weak, do not commence till warm weather. It 
seems that a certain degree of warmth is necessary to 
perfect the brood, which a small family cannot gen- 
erate. 

HOW SMALL STOCKS COMMENCE. 

The first eggs are deposited in the centre of the 
cluster of bees, in a small family ; it may not be in 
the centre of the hive in all cases ; but the middle of 
the cluster is the warmest place, wherever located. 
Here the queen will first commence ; a few cells, or a 
space not larger than a dollar, is first used, those 
exactly opposite on the same comb are next occupied. 
If the warmth of the hive will allow, whether mild 
weather produces it, or the family be large enough to 
generate that which is artificial, appears to make no 
difference ; she will then take the next combs exactly 
corresponding with the first commencement, but not 
quite as large a place is used as in the first comb. The 
circle of eggs in the first is then enlarged, and more 
are added in the next, &c, continuing to spread to the 



BREEDING. 66 

next combs, keeping the distance to the outside of the 
circle of eggs, to the centre or place of beginning, 
about equal on all sides, until they occupy the outside 
comb. Long before the outside comb is occupied, 
the first eggs deposited are matured, and the queen 
will return to the centre and use these cells again, but 
is not so particular this time to fill so many in such 
exact order as at first. This is the general process of 
small or medium sized families. I have removed the 
bees from such, in all stages of breeding, and always 
found their proceedings as described. 

DIFFERENT WITH LARGER ONES. 

But with very large families, their proceedings are 
different : as any part of the cluster of bees is warm 
enough for breeding, there is less necessity for econo- 
mizing heat, and having all the eggs confined to one 
small spot, some unoccupied cells will be found among 
the brood ; a few will contain honey and bee-bread. 

HOW POLLEN IS STORED IN THE BREEDING SEASON. 

But in the height of the breeding season, a circle of 
cells nearly all bee-bread, an inch or two wide, will 
border the sheets of comb containing brood. As bee- 
bread is probably the principal food of the young bee, 
it is thus very convenient. 

When pollen is abundant, and the swarm is in 
prosperous condition, they soon reach the outside 
sheets of comb with the brood. At this period, when 
the hive is about full, and tne queen is forced to the 
outside combs to find a place for her eggs, it is inter- 



66 BREEDING. 

esting to witness operations in a glass hive. I have 
seen her several times during one day, on the same 
piece of comb (next the glass). The light has no 
immediate effect on her "Highness," as she will quietly 
continue about her dut}^, not the least embarrassed by 
curious eyes at the window. Before depositing an 
egg, she enters the cell head first, probably to ascer- 
tain if it is in proper condition to receive it ; as a cell 
part filled with bee-bread or honey is never used. If 
the area of combs is small, or the family is small, and 
cannot protect a large space with the necessary heat, 
she will often deposit two, and sometimes three, in 
one cell (the supernumeraries I suppose are removed 
by the workers). But under prosperous circumstances, 
with a hive of suitable size, &c, this emergency is 
avoided. 

OPERATION OF LAYING AND THE EGGS DESCRIBED. 

When a cell is in a condition to receive the egg, 
on withdrawing her head she immediately curves 
her abdomen, and inserts it a few seconds. After 
leaving it, an egg may be seen attached by one end 
to the bottom ; about the sixteenth of an inch in 
length, slightly curved, very small, nearly uniform 
the whole length, abruptly rounded at the ends, semi- 
transparent, and covered with a very thin and ex- 
tremely delicate coat, often breaking with the slightest 
touch. 

After the egg has been about three days in the 
cell, a small white worm may be seen coiled in the 
bottom, surrounded with a milky -like substance, which 



BREEDING. 67 

is its food, without doubt. How this food is prepared, 
is merely guess-work. The hypothesis of its being 
chiefly composed of pollen, I have no objection to ; 
as it is sufficiently proved by the quantities that accu- 
mulate in hives that lose their queen, and rear no 
brood (that is, when a requisite number of workers 
are so left). The workers may be seen entering the 
cell every few minutes, probably, to supply this food.* 

TIME FROM THE EGG TO THE PERFECT BEE. 

In about six days it is sealed over with a convex 
waxen lid. It is now hidden from our sight for about 
twelve days, when it bites off the cover, and comes 
forth a perfect bee. The period from the egg to the 
perfect bee varies from twenty to twenty-four days ; 
average about twenty-two for workers, twenty-four 
for drones. The temperature of the hive will vary 
some with the atmosphere ; it is also governed by the 
number of bees. A low temperature probably retards 
the developemnt, while a high one facilitates it. 
You may have seen accounts of the assiduous atten- 
tions given to the young bee when it first emerges 
from the cell : 'tis said they " lick it all over, feed it 
with honey," &c, desperately pleased with their new 
acquisition. 

ROUGH TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG BEE. 

Now. if you expect to see anything of this, you 
must watch a little closer than I have. I have seen 

* When the comb in our glass hive is new, and white, these ope- 
rations can be seen more distinctly than when very old and dark. 



08 UK KEPT NO. 

Hundreds when biting their way out. Instead of. 
oare ox notice, they often receive rather rough treat- 
ment: the workers, intent on other matters, will 
sometimes come in contact with one part way out 
the cell, with force sufficient to almost dislocate its 
neck ; yet ihoy do not stop to see if any harm is done, 
or bog pardon. The little sufferer, after this rude 
lesson, scrambles back as soon as possible out of the 
way; enlarges the prison door a little, and attempts 
again, with perhaps the same success: a doaen trials 
are often made before they succeed* When it does 
actually leave, it. seems like a stranger in a multitude, 
with no friend to counsel, or mother to direct. It 
wanders about uncarcd for and unheeded, and rarely 
finds one sufficiently benevolent to bestow even the 
necessaries of life; but does sometimes. It is gem- 
rally forced to learn the important lesson oi' looking 
out for itself, the day it leaves the cradle. A ceil 
containing honey is sought for, where its immediate 
wants are all supplied. 

GUESS WORK. 

The time before it is ready to leaye the hive for 
honey, I might guess would be two or three days. 
Others have said "it would leave the day it left the 
cetl; n but I guess they guess at this point. They 
tell us, too, that after the bees seal over the cells 
containing the larva\ " they immediately commence 
spinning their cocoons, which takes just about thirty- 
six hours." I think it very likely; but when I 
admit it, I cannot imagine how it was ascertained; — 



BREEDING. 69 

the faculty of looking through a mill-stone I do not 
possess, and it requires about the same optical pene- 
tration to look into one of these cells after it is sealed 
over, as it is all perfect darkness. Suppose we drive 
away the bees and open the cell, to give us a look at 
the interior: the little insect stops its labor in a mo- 
ment, probably from the effect of air and light. I 
never could detect one in its labor. Suppose we 
open these cells every hour after sealing; can we tell 
anything about their progress by the appearance of 
these cocoons, or even tell when they are finished? 
The thickness of a dozen would not exceed common 
writing paper. When a subject is obscure, or difficult 
to ascertain, like this, why not tell us how they found 
out the particulars ; and if they were guessed at, be 
honest, and say so ? "When the bee leaves the cell, a 
cocoon remains, and that is about all we know about it. 

TERMS APPLIED TO YOUNG BEES. 

The young bee, when it first leaves the egg 1 is 
termed grub, maggot, worm, or larva; from this state 
it changes to the shape of the perfect bee, which is 
said to be three days after finishing the cocoon ; from 
the time of this change, till it is ready to leave the 
cell, the terms nymph, pupa, and chrysalis, are applied. 
The lid of the drone's cell is rather more convex than 
that of the worker's, and when removed by the young 
bee to work its way out, is left nearly perfect ; being 
cut off around the edges, a good coat or lining of silk 
keeps it whole; while the covering of the worker's 
cell is mostly wax, and is pretty well cut to pieces by 



70 BREEDING. 

the time the bee gets out. The covering to the queen's 
cell is like the drone's, but larger in diameter, and 
thicker, being lined with a little more silk. 

DISCREPANCY IN TIME IN REARING BROOD AS GIVEN BY 
HUBER. 

We are told by most writers, the period of time 
necessary to perfect from the egg, the three dif- 
ferent kinds of bees. Huber leads the way, and 
the rest, supposing him to be right, repeat in sub- 
stance his account as follows: That the whole time 
necessary to perfect a queen from the egg is sixteen 
days, the worker twenty, and the drone twenty -four 
days; Huber (as quoted by Harpers) gives the 
time of each stage of development belonging to each 
kind of bee ; but is rather unfortunate in arithmetic ; 
the items, or stages, when added together, " do not 
prove," as the school-boys say; that is, he gains time 
by making his bee by degrees. He says, first, of the 
worker, " It remains three days in the egg, five in the 
grub state, it is thirty-six hours in spinning its cocoon ; 
in three days it changes to a nymph, passes six in 
that form, and then comes forth a perfect bee." now 
do the items add ? 

The egg, 3 days. 

Grub, 5 " 

Spinning cocoon, ... 1= " 
Changing to a nymph, . . 3 " 
In that form, 6 " 

18i" days. 
One and a half days short. We will next see how 



BREEDING. 71 

the figures -with the royal insect match ; recollect six- 
teen days are all she has allowed ; then, of the different 
stages, "three days in the egg } is five a worm, when 
the bees close its cell, and it immediately begins its 
cocoon, which is finished in twenty-four hours. Dur- 
ing eleven days, and even sixteen hours of the twelfth, 
it remains in a state of complete repose. Its trans- 
formation into a nymph then takes place, in which 
$tate four days and part of the fifth are passed." Now 
let us add the items : 

The egg } 3 days. 

A worm, 5 " 

Spinning a cocoon, (24 hours), .... 1 " 
Reposes eleven days and 16 hours, . . 11 1 " 
A nymph four days, and part of the fifth, 4^ " 

25 days. 
Now, reader, what do you make of such palpable 
blundering guess-work ? A difference of nine days — 
the merest school-boy ought to know better ! Can we 
rely on such history ? Does it not prove the necessity 
of going over the whole ground, applying a test to 
every assertion, and a revision of the whole matter 
throughout? My object is not to find fault, but to 
get at facts. When I see such guess-work as the above 
published to the world, in this enlightened age, 
gravely told to the rising generation, as a portion of 
natural history, I feel it a duty not to resist the incli- 
nation to expose the absurdity. 

THE NUMBER OF EGGS DEPOSITED BY THE QUEEN GUESSED AT. 

The number of eggs that a queen will deposit is often 



72 BREEDING. 

guessed at. If we examine a thrifty stock in the 
height of the breeding season, we shall find combs 
filled with brood, amounting frequently to three quar- 
ters of all in the hive. Now by observing the number 
of cells to the square inch, it is easy to get the num- 
ber to the square foot; then multiply this number 
again by the number of combs in a hive, and we shall 
have the whole number of cells. For instance, a 
comb one inch square of worker cells, contains on 
both sides about 50; at this rate, one twelve inches 
square contains over 7,000. Suppose a hive contains 
eight such combs, and that 120 square inches of each 
of the eight combs are used for brood, we have eight 
times 120 square inches of brood ; 50 to the square 
inch would multiply into 48,000 cells. A part of 
these cells, say one or two combs would contain cells 
for drones ; these are a little larger, and would reduce 
the number some ; also, some few might be empty, the 
young bees having just left them, and a few might be 
occupied here and there with bee-bread or honey. In 
all, the number might be one quarter of what is termed 
brood comb. Take this number from the 48,000, and 
we have left 36,000 cells actually occupied at one time 
with brood, including eggs, larvse, and chrysalis. We 
must remember that the time, from the egg first de- 
posited to the mature bee, is not over 25 days at most ; 
we perceive that all now in the cells must have been 
put there by the queen within the last 25 days ! This 
number divides into about 1,500 for each day ! Here 
are some data to guess from. Eggs are frequently found 
in new hives in a few hours after being hived, but they 



BREEDING. . 73 

must be first swarms which are accompanied by the 
old queens. 

Schirach estimates " the eggs a single female will 
lay, from 70,000 to 100,000 in a season.' 1 Keaumer 
and Huber do not estimate so high. Another writer 
estimates 90,000, in three months. Let the number 
be as it may, probably thousands are never perfected. 
During the spring months, in medium and small fam- 
ilies, where the bees can protect with animal heat but 
a few combs, I have often found cells containing a 
plurality of eggs, two, three, and occasionally four, in 
a single cell. These supernumeraries must be removed, 
and frequently may be found amongst the dust on the 
bottom-board. 

A TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF A QUEEN. 

If you have a hive that you suspect has lost a 
queen at this season, her presence can be ascertain- 
ed nine times in ten by this method. Sweep off the 
board clean, and look the next day or two after 
for these eggs. Take care that ants, or mice, have 
no chance to get them ; they might deceive you, being 
as fond of eggs for breakfast as any one.* When one 
or more is found, or any immature bees, it is suffi- 
cient, no further proof of the presence of a queen is 
needed. 

Another portion of eggs is wasted whenever a sup- 
ply of their food fails ; if we remove the bees from a 
stock during a scarcity, when the hive is light, we will 
be very likely to find hundreds of eggs in the cells, 

* It is said that the bees will devour these eggs also. 

4 



74 BREEDING. 

and but very few advancing from that stage towaida 
maturity. I have thus found it in the fall, in July, 
and sometimes the first of June, or at any time when 
maturing the brood would be likely to exhaust their 
stores, to endanger the family's supply. Now, instead 
of the fertility of the queen being greater in spring 
and first of summer than at other times, (as we are 
often told), I would suggest the probability that a 
greater abundance of food at this season, and a greater 
number of empty cells, may be the reason of the greater 
number of bees matured. 

WHEN DRONES ARE REARED. 

Whenever the hive is well supplied with honey, and 
plenty of bees, a portion of eggs are deposited in the 
drone-cells, which three or four days more are neces- 
sary to mature than the worker. 

WHEN QUEENS ARE REARED. 

Also, when the combs become crowded with bees, 
and honey plenty, the preparations for young queens 
commence: as the first step towards swarming, 
from one to twenty royal cells are begun ; when 
about half completed, the queen (if all continues fa- 
vorable) will deposit eggs in them, these will be glued 
fast by one end like those for the workers ; there is no 
doubt but they are precisely the same kind of eggs 
that produce other bees. When hatched, the little 
worm will be supplied with a superabundance of food ; 
at least, it appears so from the fact, that a few times 
I have found a quantity remaining in the cell after the 



BREEDING. 



75 



queen had left. The consistence of this food is about 
like cream, the color some lighter, or just tinged with 
yellow. If it was thin like water, or even honey, I 
cannot imagine how it could be made to stay in the 
upper end of an inverted cell of that size in such quan- 




PLATB OF THE THREE KINDS OF CELLS. 



tities as are put in, as the bees often fill it near half 
full. Sometimes a cell of this kind will contain this 



76 BREEDING. 

food, and no worm to feed upon it. I guessed the bees 
had compounded more than their present necessities 
required, and that they stored it there to have it 
ready, also, that being there all might know it was for 
royalty. 

The taste is said to be ''more pungent" than food 
given to the worker, and the difference in food 
changes the bee from a worker to a queen. I have 
nothing to say against this hypothesis ; it may be so, 
or the young bee being obliged to stand on its head 
may effect it, or both causes combined may effect the 
change. I never tasted this food, or found any test to 
apply. 

The preceding plate represents a piece of comb 
containing all the different cells — those at the 
left hand the size for drones. In the centre are a few 
that appear sealed over, others nearly covered, others 
the larva in different stages of growth, as well as the 
eggs. Fig. 1 represents a queen's cell just commenced. 
They are usually started thus far the first season, very 
frequently when the hive is only half or two-thirds 
full. Fig. 2 is a cell sufficiently advanced to receive 
the egg. Fig. 3 one finished, the stage when the first 
swarm leaves. Fig. 4 when a queen has been perfected 
and left. Fig. 5 is a cell where its occupant has been 
destroyed by a rival, and removed by the workers. 
It will be perceived that each finished queen's cell 
contains as much wax as fifty made for the workers. 

LIABILITY OF BEING DESTROYED. 

In any stage from the egg to maturity these royal 
insects are liable to be destroyed ; — if honey fails from 



BREEDING. 77 

any cause sufficient to make the existe^e of s, swarm 
any way hazardous, the preparations are abandoned, 
and these young queens destroyed ; (I would here 
request the reader not to condemn me for telling more 
than I can prove, until he has had the whole story ; in 
the swarming season, I will give further particulars.) 

DRONES DESTROYED WHEN HONEY IS SCARCE. 

When an occurrence like the above happens, the 
drones next fall victims to the failure of honey. A 
brief existence only is theirs ; such as are perfect, are 
destroyed without mercy ; those in the chrysalis state 
are often dragged out, and sacrificed to the necessities 
of the family. Such as are allowed to hatch, instead 
of being fed and protected as they would be if honey 
was abundant, are allowed, while yet weak from the 
effects of hunger, to wander from the hive, and fall to 
the earth by hundreds. These effects attend only a 
scarcity in the early part of the season. The massacre 
of July and September is quite different. The drones 
then have age and strength — an effort is apparently 
first made by the workers to drive them out without 
proceeding to extremes ; they are harassed sometimes 
for several days ; the workers feigning only to sting, 
or else they cannot, as I never succeeded in seeing but 
\rery few dispatched in that way ; yet there is evi- 
dence proving beyond doubt that the sting is used. 
Hundreds will often be collected together in a com- 
pact body at the bottom of the hive ; this mutua^ 
protection affording a few hours' respite from their tor- 
mentors, who do not cease to worry them. In a few 



78 BREEDING. 

days they are gone, and it is a hard matter to tell what 
lias become of them, at least the majority. If the 
hive in September is well supplied with honey, a por- 
tion of the drones have a longer lease of life given 
them ; I have seen them as late as December. In 
some seasons, when the best hives are poorly supplied 
with stores, the ensuing spring the bees will rear no 
drones, until the flowers yield a good supply. I have 
known one or two years in which no drones appeared 
before the last of June ; at other times, thousands are 
matured by the first of May. 

OLD QUEEN LEAVES WITH THE FIRST SWARM. 

The old queen leaves with the first swarm ; as soon 
as cells are ready in the new hive she will deposit her 
eggs in them, at first for workers ; the number perfect- 
ed will correspond with the supply of honey and size 
of the swarm. When the supply fails before leaving 
the old stock, she remains there, and continues laying 
throughout the season ; but the bees matured after 
the 20th of July (in this section) are not more than 
sufficient to keep the number good. As many die, or 
are lost during their excursions, as the young ones 
will replace ; in fact, they often lose rather than gain ; 
so that by the next spring, a hive that has cast no 
swarm, is no better for a stock than one from which a 
swarm has issued. We are apt to be deceived by bees 
clustering outside, towards the latter end of the sea- 
son, and suppose it hardly possible for them all to 
get in, when it may be caused by hot weather, full 
stores, &c. 



BREEDING. 79 

A YOUNG QUEEN TAKES THE PLACE OF HER MOTHER IN THE 
OLD STOCK. 

In ordinary circumstances, when a swarm has left 
a stock, the oldest of the young queens is ready to 
emerge from her cell in about eight or nine days ; if 
no second swarm is sent out, she will take her moth- 
er's place, and begin to lay eggs in about ten days, or 
a little less. Two or three weeks is the only time 
throughout the whole season, but what eggs can be 
found in all prosperous hives. Whenever a copious 
yield of honey occurs, drones are reared ; as it becomes 
scarce, they are destroyed. 

The relative number of drones and workers that 
exist when they are most numerous, doubtless de- 
pends on the size of the hive, whether one in ten, or 
one in thirty. 

When a swarm is first hived, the first cells are the 
size for working ; if the hive be very small, and bees 
numerous, it may be filled before they are fully aware 
of it, and but few drone-cells constructed; conse- 
quently, but few can be raised ; whereas if the hive 
be large, long before it is full, considerable honey will 
be- stored. Cells for storing honey are usually the 
size for drones ; these will be made as soon as the 
requisite number for workers is provided. An abun- 
dant yield of honey during the process of filling a 
large hive, would therefore cause a great proportion 
of these cells to be built — the amount of drone -brood 
being governed by the same cause, is a strong argu- 
ment against large hives, as affording room for too 
many of these cells, where an unnecessary number oi 



80 BREEDING. 

drones will be reared, causing a useless expenditure 
of honey, &c. 

OTHER THEORIES. 

Theories differing materially from the foregoing, 
are advanced by nearly all writers. One says, " In 
spring the queen lays about 2,000 eggs of males, re- 
sumes it again in August, but during the rest of the 
intervals she exclusively lays worker eggs. The 
queen must be at least eleven months old before she 
begins to lay the eggs of males." Mr. Townly makes 
the same assertion. Dr. Be van says, u the great lay- 
ing of drone eggs usually commences about the end 
of April." Another author repeats about the same, 
and appears to have investigated farther, as he has 
found out that the eggs for the two kinds of bees are 
germinated separately, and the queen knows when 
each kind is ready, as well as the workers, &c. Now, 
I beg leave to differ a little from these authors. Either 
there exists no difference in the eggs germinated, and 
any, or all will produce drones or workers, just as 
they happen to be deposited and fed; or else the 
periods of laying drone eggs are much more frequent 
than any writer with which I am acquainted has been 
willing to allow. % 

SUBJECT NOT UNDERSTOOD. 

I am not anxious to establish a new theory, but to 
get at facts. If we pretend to understand natural his- 
tory, it is important that we have it correct ; and if we 
do not understand it, say so, and leave it open for 
further investigation. It is my opinion that we know 



BREEDING. 81 

but very little about this point. I wish to induce 
closer observation, and would recommend no positive 
decision, until all the facts that will apply have been 
examined. Whether these drone-egg theories have 
been too hastily adopted, the reader can decide ; I 
shall offer a few more facts, somewhat difficult to 
reconcile with them. 

First, in relation to the queeen being "eleven 
months old" before laying drone eggs. We all agree, 
I believe, that the old queen goes with the first swarm, 
and a young one remains in the old stock. Now sup- 
pose the first swarm leaves in June, and the old stock 
yet contains a numerous family. The flowers of 
buckwheat in August yield a bountiful harvest of 
honey. This old stock rears a large brood of drones. 
Is it not proved in this case that the queen was but 
two months old, instead of eleven ? We further agree 
that young queens accompany second or after-swarms. 
When these happen to be large and prosperous, they 
never fail to rear a brood of drones at this season. 
What is the age of these ? I apprehend that this 
eleven months theory originated in sections where 
there are no crops of buckwheat raised, or in small 
quantities. Clover generally fails in August, and 
May, or June, of another year comes round, before 
there is a sufficient yield to produce the brood. With 
these observations only, how very rational to conclude 
that it must be a law of their nature, instead of being 
governed by the yield of honey, and size of the 
family ? If the ' periods of drone egg laying are 
limited to only two or three, it would seem that alJ 
4* 



82 BREEDING. 

queens ought to be ready with this kind of egg, 
about the same period of the season, but how are the 
facts ? 

I would like to inquire what becomes of the first 
series of drone eggs, the last of April, or the first of 
May, when the stocks are poorly supplied with 
honey, or when a family is small and but little honey 
through the summer ? No drone brood is matured in 
these cases. It is not pretended that the queen has 
any control over the germination of these eggs, yet 
somehow she has them ready whenever the situation 
of the hive will warrant it. Two stocks may have an 
equal number of bees the first of May ; one may have 
forty pounds of honey, the other four pounds ; the lat- 
ter cannot afford to rear a drone, while the other will 
have hundreds. Let two stocks have but four pounds 
each at any time in summer when honey is scarce, 
now feed one of them plentifully, and a brood of 
drones is sure to appear, while the other will not pro- 
duce one. Whenever stocks are well stored with 
honey, and fall of bees, the first of May will find 
drone-cells containing brood. If the flowers continue 
to yield a full supply, these cells may be examined 
every week from that period till the first swarm 
leaves, and I will engage that drone brood may be 
found in all stages from the egg to maturity ; and the 
worker brood the same. In twenty -four dsijs after 
the first swarm leaves, the last drone eggs left by the 
old queen will be just about matured. When trans- 
ferring bees from old to new hives, I generally do it 
about twenty-one or twenty-two days after the first 



BREEDING. 83 

swarm, (this is the time to avoid destroying the 
worker-brood ; the particulars will be given in another 
place.) I have transferred a great many, and never 
failed to find a few drones about ready to leave the 
combs. Whether the swarm had left the last of May, 
or middle of July, there was no difference, they were 
on hand. 

A very early swarm in good seasons, will often fill 
the hive, and send out an issue in from four to six 
weeks : the usual amount of drone-brood may be 
found in these cases. The following circumstance 
would appear to indicate that all the eggs are alike, 
and if they are laid in drone-cells, the bees give the 
proper food and make drones; if in worker-cells, 
workers, just as they make a queen from a worker- 
egg, when put in a royal cell. 

In a glass hive, one sheet of comb next the glass, 
and parallel with it, was full size ; about three-quarters 
of this sheet was worker-cells, the remainder drone- 
cells. The family had been rather small, but now 
had increased to a full swarm ; a few drones had ma- 
tured in the middle of the hive. It was about the 
middle of June, 1850, when I discovered the bees on 
this outside sheet, preparing it, as I thought, for 
brood, by cutting off the cells to the proper length. 
They had been used for storing honey, and were much 
too long, being about an inch and a half deep. In a 
day or two after I saw a few eggs in both worker and 
drone-cells ; four or five days afterwards, on opening 
the door, I found her "majesty" engaged in deposit- 
ing eggs in the drone cells. Nearly every one already 



84 BREEDING. 

contained an egg ; most of these she examined, but did 
not use them ; six or eight, it appeared, were all that 
were unoccupied ; in each of these she immediately 
deposited an egg. She continued to search for more 
empty cells, and in doing so, she got on the part of 
the comb containing worker-cells, where she found a 
dozen or more empty, in each of which, she laid one. 
The whole time perhaps thirty minutes. Query ? 
Was her series of drone eggs exhausted just at this 
time ? If so, it would appear that she was not aware 
of it, because she examined several drone-cells after 
laying the last one there, before leaving that part 
of the comb, and acted exactly as if she would have 
used them had they not been pre-occupied. Did the 
worker-cells receive some eggs that would have pro- 
duced drones, but for the circumstance of being de- 
posited in worker-cells ? I know we are told that 
an egg may be transferred from a worker-cell to 
one for drones, or an egg taken from a drone-cell and 
deposited in a worker-cell; that the exchange will 
make no difference, the bee will be just what the first 
deposit would have made it. How the knowledge for 
this assertion was obtained, we are not informed, at 
least of the practical part. That an egg was ever de- 
tached from the bottom of one cell safely and success- 
fully deposited in another, without breaking or in- 
juring it in some manner, to make the bees refuse it, 
permit me at present to doubt. 

NECESSITY FOR FURTHER OBSERVATION. 

Cannot some experiments, practicable to all, be in- 



BREEDING. 85 

stituted that will throw more light on this subject? 
The old hypothesis of limiting drone-egg laying to 
two or three periods, is evidently at fault. 

TWO SIDES OF THE QUESTION. 

If we suppose that the eggs are all alike, and the 
subsequent treatment makes either workers, drones, or 
queens, and look to analogy for support, we shall 
find much against, as well as for it. For instance, we 
find in almost everj^ department of animated nature, 
that the sex of the germ of a future being is decided 
before being separated from the parent, as the eggs 
of fowls, &c. Another fact, some queens (averaging 
one in sixty or eighty) deposit eggs that produce 
only drones,* whether in worker or drone-cells, prov- 
ing that sex is decided in this case beyond controversy. 

* I have had several such. It made no difference whether the eggs 
were in the worker-cells or drone-cells, the brood was all drones. When 
in the worker-cells, (and the majority was there,) they required to be 
lengthened about one-third. In an occurrence of this kind, the col- 
ony of workers will rapidly diminish in number, until too few are 
left to protect the combs from the moth. It occurs most frequently in 
spring, but I once had a case the last of summer. The first indications 
are an unusual number of caps, or covers of cells, being under and 
about the hive ; the workers, instead of increasing, grow less in num- 
ber. When you fear this state of things, make a thorough examina- 
tion, blow under the hive some tobacco smoke, as directed in pruning, 
invert the hive, part the combs till you can see the brood ; if the worker- 
cells contain drones, they are readily perceived, as they project beyond 
the usual even surface, being very irregular, here and there a few, or 
perhaps but one sticking out. The worker-brood, when in their own 
cells, form nearly an even surface ; so of the drones. The only remedy 
that I have found is to destroy this queen, and substitute another, which 
oan be obtained in the swarming season, or in the fall, better than at 
other times. To find the queen, paralyze with puff-ball, &c. For direc- 
tions see fall management. 



tb BREEDING. 

Hence it would appear reasonable, if sex was decided 
by the ovaries of the queen, in one case, it would be 
in another. 

To allow the bees the power of making three kinds of 
bees from one kind of eggs, which would be virtually 
constituting a third sex, an anomaly not often found. 
The drones being males, and workers imperfect fe- 
males with generative organs undeveloped, renders 
the anomaly of the third sex unnecessary. On the 
other side it might be said in repty : That if food and 
treatment would create or produce organs of genera- 
tion in the female, by making an egg destined for a 
worker into a queen, (a fact which all apiarians admit,) 
why not food and treatment make the drone ? Is 
the difficulty of developing one kind of sexual organs 
greater than another ? 

Kespecting the anomaly of the eggs of some queens 
producing only drones, the question might be asked, 
Is this more of an anomaly than that of ordinary 
queens which are said to germinate eggs in distinct 
series? It is all out of the usual line. Other animals 
or insects usually produce the sexes promiscuously. 
As we are ignorant of causes deciding sex in any case, 
we must acknowledge mystery to belong to both sides 
of the question here. The stumbling-block of more 
than two sexes, which seems so necessary to make 
plain, is no greater here than with some species of 
ants, that have, as we are told, kin^, queen, soldier 
and laborer. Four distinct and differently formed 
bodies, all belonging to one nest, and descended from 
one mother. Whether there are four distinct kinds of 



BREEDING. 87 

eggs producing them, or the power is given to the 
workers to develop such as are wanted, from one 
kind, we cannot say. If we make two kinds of eggs, 
it helps the matter but very little. There is still an 
anomaly. There is but one perfect female in a nest 
to germinate eggs, and the myriads produced (being 
over 80,000 in twenty-four hours, according to some 
historians) shows that the fecundity of our queen-bee 
is not a parallel case by any means. And yet they 
are similar, by having their offspring provided for 
without an effort of their own. 

I shall leave this matter for the present, hoping that 
something conclusive may occur in the course of my ex- 
periments, or those of others. At present I am in- 
clined to think that the eggs are all alike, but am not 
fully satisfied. 

I am aware that this matter is of but little value or 
interest to many, but myself and a few others have 
" Yankee inquisitiveness " pretty well developed, and 
would like to know how it ivas managed. 

As for workers proving occasionally fertile, I have 
but little to say. After years of close observation di- 
rected to this point, I have been unable to discover 
anything to establish this opinion. Neither have I 
found the black bees described by some authors. It 
is true that in the middle or latter part of summer a 
portion will be much darker than others, and perhaps 
rather smaller, and some of them with their wings 
somewhat worn, probably the result of continued labor, 
peculiar food, or some incidental circumstance. 

I have a few times found a humble-bee under tha 



88 BEE PASTURAGE. 

hive, that had entered, and not finding his way out 
readily, was speedily shorn of his beautiful " locks," 
and consequently his strength — that is, every par- 
ticle of hair, down, feathers, bristles, or whatever he 
had been covered with, was completely removed by 
the bees, who had no regard for his beautiful alter- 
nating stripes of yellow and brown ; which left him 
the very picture of darkness. 



CHAPTEE IV. 

BEE PASTURAGE. 

In some seasons the earth is covered with snow 
much later than others. When this occurs, a greater 
number of warm days are necessary to melt it, and 
start the flowers, than otherwise. 

SUBSTITUTE FOR POLLEN. 

During these warm days, while waiting for the 
flowers, the bees are anxious to do something. It is 
then interesting to watch them, and see what will be 
used as substitutes for pollen and honey. At such 
times, I have seen hundreds engaged on a heap of 
sawdust, gathering the minute particles into little pel- 
lets on their legs, seeming quite pleased with the ac- 
quisition. Kotten wood, when crumbled into powder, 
and dry, is also collected. Flour, when scattered near 
the hive, I have known to be taken up in considerable 
quantities. Some apiarians have fed it to their bees 
at this season, and consider it a great advantage ; I 



BEE PASTURAGE. 89 

have not tested it sufficient to give an opinion. A 
substitute for honey is sap from a few kinds of trees, 
yet it all amounts to but very little. All these unnatu- 
ral sources are abandoned when the flowers appear. 

MANNER OF PACKING IT. 

The particular manner of obtaining pollen has been 
witnessed by but very few persons, as it is generally 
brushed from their bodies and packed on their legs, 
while on the wing thereby preventing a fair chance 
to inspect operations. When collecting ouly pollen 
they alight on the flowers, passing rapidly over the 
stamens, detaching a portion of the dust, which lodges 
on most parts of them, to be brushed together and 
packed into pellets when again on the wing. Thus 
they keep alternately flying and alighting until a load 
is obtained, when they immediately return to the hive ; 
each bee bringing several loads in a day. Honey, as 
it is collected, is deposited in the abdomen, and kept 
out of sight till stored in the hive. 

ALDER YIELDS THE FIRST. 

The first material gathered from flowers is pollen. 
Candle-alder (Abuts Rubra)* yields the first supply. 
The time of flowering varies from the 10th of March 
to the 20th of April. The amount afforded is also va- 
riable. Cold, freezing weather frequently destroys a 
great portion of these flowers after they are out. These 
staminate flowers are nearly perfected the season pre- 
vious, and a few warm days in spring will bring them 

* The botanical names are from Wood's Class-Book. 



90 BEE PASTURAGE. 

out, even before any leaves appear. When the weather 
continues fine, great quantities of farina are secured. 

The time that bees commence their labors does not 
govern the time of swarming by any means ; this 
matter depends on the weather through April and 
May. These remarks apply particularly to this sec- 
tion, Greene County, New York, in latitude about 42 
degrees. In other places many different trees, shrubs, 
and herbs, may be found yielding honey and pollen 
that scarcely exist here, producing far different results. 

Our swamps produce several varieties of willow, 
(salix,) that put out their blossoms very irregularly. 
Some of these bushes are a month earlier than 
others, and some of the buds on the same bush are a 
week or two later than the rest. These also afford 
only pollen, but are much more dependence than alder, 
as a turn of cold weather cannot at any time destroy 
more than a small part. Next comes the aspen, (Popu- 
lus Tremuloides) ; of this we have more than is neces- 
sary for any purpose ; it is not a particular favorite 
with the bees, as but few, comparatively, visit it. It 
is followed very soon by an abundance of the red ma- 
ple {Acer Bubrum), that suits them better, but this, 
like the others, is often lost by freezing. The first 
honey obtained of any account is from the golden 
willow (Salix Vitellina) ; it yields no pollen, and is sel- 
dom injured by frost. Gooseberries, currants, cherries, 
pear and peach trees, add a share of both honey and 
pollen. Sugar maple {Acer Saccharinum) now throws 
out its ten thousand silken tassels, beautiful as gold. 
Strawberries modestly open their petals in invitation, 



BEE PASTURAGE. 91 

but, hkc " : obscure virtues," are often neglected for the 
more conspicuous .Dandelion, and the showy appear- 
ance and fragrant blossoms of the apple-trees, which 
now open their s tor esj offering to their acceptance a 
real harvest. 

FRUIT FLOWERS IMPORTANT IN GOOD WEATHER. 

In good weather, sometimes a gain of twenty lbs. 
is added to their stores, during this period of apple- 
tree blossoms. But we are seldom fortunate enough 
to have good weather all through this period, it being 
rainy, cloudy, cool, or windy, which is very detrimen- 
tal. Sometimes a frost at this time destroys all, and 
the gain of our bees is reversed, that is, they are 
lighter at the end than at the beginning of these 
flowers. Yet this is the season that decides their pros- 
perity for the summer, whether they do first rate or 
otherwise. If good weather now, we expect our first 
swarms about the first of June ; if not, no subsequent 
yield of honey will make up for this deficiency. We 
now have a time of several days, from ten to fourteen, 
in which but few flowers exist. If our hives are poorly 
supplied when this scarcity occurs, it will so disarrange 
their plans for swarming, that no preparations are 
again made much before July, and sometimes not at 
all. In sections where the wild cherry (Cerasus Sera- 
tina) abounds, the flowers of this will appear and 
fill this time of scarcity, which this section annually 
presents. 

RED RASPBERRY A FAVORITE. 

The red raspberry (Rubus Strigosus) next presents 



92 BEE PASTURAGE, 

the stamens as the most conspicuous part of the flower, 
soliciting the embrace of the bee, by pouring out boun- 
teous libations more prized by our industrious insect 
than wine. For several weeks -they are allowed to 
partake of this exquisite beverage ; it is secreted* at all 
hours and in all kinds of weather. When the morning 
is warm we often hear their cheerful humming among 
the leaves and flowers of this shrub, ere the sun ap- 
pears above the horizon. The gentle shower, sufficient 
to induce man to seek a shelter, is often unheeded by 
the bee when luxuriating among these flowers ; even 
white clover, important as it is in furnishing the great- 
est part of their stores, at this season, would be neglect- 
ed if there was only a fall supply of this. Clover be- 
gins to blossom with the raspberry, and continues lon- 
ger. We have an insufficient supply (in this section) 
in most seasons. Eed clover probably secretes as 
much honey as the white, but the tube of the corolla 
being longer, the bee appears to be unable to reach it. 
Yet I have seen a few at work even here, but it ap- 
peared like slow business. Sorrel, (Eumex Acetosella,) 
the pest of many farmers, is brought under contribu- 
tion, and furnishes the precious dust in any quantity. 
Morning is the only part of the day appropriated to 
its collection. 

CATNIP, MOTHER-WORT, AND HOARHOUND ARE SOUGHT AFTER. 

Catnip, (Nepeta Cataria,) Mother-wort, (Leonurus 
Cardiaca,) and Hoarhound, (Marrubium Vulgare,) about 
the middle of June, put forth their flowers, rich in 
sweetness, and like the Raspberry, the bees visit them 



BEE PASTURAGE. 98 

at all hours and in nearly all kinds of weather. They 
last from four to six weeks ; the catnip I have known 
to last twelve in a few instances, yielding honey 
during the whole time. Ox-eye daisy, (Leucanthemum 
Vulgare,) that beautiful and splendid flower, in pasture 
and meadow, and worth but little in either, also con- 
tains some honey. The flower is compound, and each 
little floret contains particles so minute, that the task 
of obtaining a load is very tedious. It is only visited 
when the more copious honey -yielding flowers are 
scarce. Snap-dragon, (Linaria Vulgaris,) with its 
nauseous and sickening odor, troubling the farmer 
with its vile presence, is made to bestow the only good 
thing about jt, except its beauty, upon our insect. 
The flower is large and tubular, and the bee to reach 
the honey must enter it ; to see the bee almost disap- 
pear within the folds of the corolla, one would think 
that it was about being swallowed, when the hideous 
mouth was gaping to receive it ; but unharmed, soon 
it emerges from the yellow prison, covered with dust ; 
this is not brushed into pellets on its legs, like the 
pollen from some other flowers, but a part adheres to 
its back between the wings, which it is apparently 
unable to remove, as it remains there sometimes for 
months, making a cluster outside the hive, appear 
quite speckled. Bush honey-suckle (Diervilla Tri- 
fida) is another particular favorite. 

SINGULAR FATALITY ATTENDANT ON SILK1VEED. 

Silk weed (Asclepias Comuti) is also another honey* 
yielding perennial, but a singular fatality attends many 



94: BEE PASTURAGE. 

bees while gathering it, that I never yet saw noticed. 
I had observed during the period this plant was in 
bloom, that a number of the bees belonging to swarms, 
before the hive was full, were unable to ascend the 
sides to the comb ; there would be sometimes thirty 
or more at the bottom in the morning. On searching 
for the cause, I found from one to ten thin yellow 
scales, attached to their feet, triangular, or somewhat 
wedge shape, in size about the twentieth part of an 
inch. On the longest point or angle, was a black thread- 
like point, from a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch in 
length; on this stem was either hooks, barbs, or a 
glutinous matter, that firmly adhered to each foot or 
claw of the bee, rendering it useless as far as climbing 
the sides of the hive was concerned. I found also 
among bees clustered outside of full hives, this orna- 
ment attached, but to them it appeared no inconveni- 
ence. Among the scales of wax and waste matter 
that accumulates about the swarms to the amount of 
a handful, I found a great many of these scales, 
which the bees had worked from their feet. The 
question then arose, were these scales a foreign sub- 
stance, accidentally entangled in their claws, or was it 
something formed there by nature, or rather an un- 
natural appendage ? It was soon decided. From the 
number of bees carrying it, I was satisfied that if it 
was the product of any flower, it belonged to a 
species somewhat abundant. I set about a close 
examination of all such as were then in bloom. 
I found the flowers of the Silkweed, (or Milkweed, 
as some call it,) sometimes holding a dead bee by the 



BEE PASTURAGE. 95 

foot, secured by this appendage. Both sepals and 
petals of this flower are re-curved, that is, turned back- 
ward towards the stem, forming five acute angles, or 
notches, just the thing for a trap for a bee with 
strings of beads on its toes ; when at work they are 
very liable to slip a foot into one of these notches ; the 
flower being thick and firm, holds it fast ; pulling only 
draws it deeper into the wedge-like cavity. The bee 
must either perish or break loose ; their instincts fail 
them in this emergency ; they know nothing about 
getting it out by a gentle pull the other way. I 
never saw one do it except by accident. By examin- 
ing the buds of this plant just before opening, I found 
this fatal appendage, by which great numbers of our 
bees are lost.* When I point out a loss among our 
bees, I would like to give a remedy; but here I am at 
a loss, unless all these plants are destroyed, and this is 
impracticable in many places. After all I am not sure 
but honey enough is obtained by such bees as do es- 
cape, to counterbalance what we lose. This would de- 
pend on the amount of honey yielded by other flowers 
at the same time. 

Whitewood (Liriodendron Tulipifera) yields some- 
thing eagerly sought for by the bees, but whether hon- 
ey, or pollen, or both, I have never been able to ascer- 
tain. All the flowers of this kind, with us, are too 

* In Wood's Class-book of Botany, " Order CTL," in a plate showing 
the parts of this plant, it is thus described : "Fig. 11, a pair of pollen 
nasses suspended from the glands at an angle of the antheridium,"&c. 

One, when reading this simple botanical description, and seeing the 
plate, or the Botanist with his glasses, when he minutely inspects the 
parts, would not suspect anything fatal to bees about it. 



96 BEE PASTUKAGE. 

high. It is very scarce, as well as Basswood, (Tilta 
Americana,) — that in some places is abundant, and 
yields honey clear and transparent as water, superior in 
appearance, but inferior in flavor to clover ; it also ap- 
pears much thinner when first collected. 

LARGE YIELD FROM BASSWOOD. 

.During the time this tree is in bloom, a period of 
two or three weeks in many sections, astonishing quan- 
tities are obtained. A person once assured me that he 
had known " ten pounds collected by one swarm in a 
day, by weighing the hive in the morning and again at 
evening." I have some doubt of the statement, and 
think half the amount would be a good day's work ; 
but I had but a small chance to know, as only a few 
trees, as a specimen, grow in this section. I have 
weighed hives during seasons of apple-tree blossoms and 
buckwheat, the two best yields of honey we have, and 
three and a half pounds was the best for one day that 
I ever had. Sumach, {Rhus Glabra,) in some sections, 
affords considerable honey. Mustard (Sinapis Nigra) 
is also a great favorite. 

I have now mentioned most of the honey -producing 
trees and plants that come on before the middle of 
July. The course of these flowers is termed the first 
yield. In sections where there are no crops of buck- 
wheat, it constitutes the only full one. Other flowers 
continue to bloom till cold weather. Where white clo- 
ver is abundant and the fields are used for pasture, it 
will continue to throw out fresh flowers, sometimes, 
throughout the summer ; yet the bees consume about 



BEE PASTURAGE. 97 

all they collect in rearing their brood, &c. Thus it ap« 
pears in some sections six or eight weeks is about all 
the time they have to provide for winter. 

GARDEN FLOWERS UNIMPORTANT. 

In passing along I have not mentioned garden flow- 
ers, because the amount obtained here is a small item, 
compared to the forest and fields — especially ornamen- 
tal flowers. It is true that the Hollyhock, (Altha Bo- 
sea,) Mallows, (Malva Rotundifolia,) and many others 
yield honey, but what does it amount to ? A person 
expecting his hives to be filled from such a source 
would very likely be disappointed, especially when 
many are kept together. 

HONEY-DEW. 

Honey-dew is said to be a source from whence large 
collections are made in some places. When or where 
it appears or disappears is more than I can tell. I 
have seen the accounts of it, but accounts I have learn- 
ed to doubt until I find something corroborative in my 
own experience. I find too many errors copied 
merely because they happen to be in company with 
several truths. Huber discovered many important 
truths, and has given them to the world ; too many 
writers take it for granted when two points of his are 
true, the third must be also. It is no proof that there 
is no such article merely because I never discovered 
it. In the many fruitless endeavors that I have made 
to get a view of this substance, it may be I have lack- 
ed close observation ; or possibly there is none show- 
5 



98 BEE PASTUKAGE. 

ered upon this region ; or I may have failed to bring 
my imagination to assist me to convert common dew 
into the real article. 

SINGULAR SECRETION. 

I once discovered bees collecting a secretion uncon- 
nected with flowers ; but was not honey-dew, as it has 
been described. I was passing a bush of Witch-hazel, 
(Hamamelis Virginiana,) and was arrested by an un- 
usual humming of bees. At first I supposed that a 
swarm was about me, yet it was late in the season, (it 
being about the 25th July.) On close inspection, I 
found the bush contained numerous warty excrescen- 
ces, the size and shape of a hickory-nut. These prov- 
ed to be only a shell — the inside lined with thousands 
of minute insects, a species of aphis. These appeared 
to be engaged sucking the juices, and discharging a 
clear, transparent fluid. Near the stem was an orifice 
about an eighth of an inch in diameter, out of which 
this liquid would gradually exude. So eager were 
the bees for this secretion, that several would crowd 
around one orifice at a time, each endeavoring to 
thrust the other away. This occurred several years 
ago, and I never have been able to find anything like 
it since ; neither have I learned whether it is common 
in other sections. 

SECRETIONS OF THE APHIS. 

The liquid ejected by the aphis, (plant louse,) when 
feeding or sucking the juices of tender leaves, and re- 
ceived by the ants that are always in attendance, is 



BEE PASTURAGE. 99 

something like it ; but in this case the bees were in 
attendance instead of ants. 

This mode of elaborating honey, although not gen- 
erally collected by bees, perhaps may not be too much 
out of place here. Also, it may furnish a clue to the 
cause or substantiate some theory of honey-dew. 

These insects (Aphis) have been very appropriately 
termed " ants' cows," as they are regarded by them 
with the most tender care and solicitude. In July or 
August, when the majority of the leaves of our apple 
trees are matured, there is often a few sprouts or 
suckers about the bottom or trunk, that continue 
growing and putting out fresh leaves. On the under 
side of these, you will find the aphis by hundreds, of 
all sizes, from those just hatched to the perfect insect 
with wings. All appear to be engaged in sucking the 
bitter j uice from the tender leaf and stalk. The ants 
are among them by scores. (They are often accused 
by the careless observer of the injury, instead of the 
aphis.) Occasionally there will issue from their ab- 
domen a small, transparent globule, which the ant is 
ever ready to receive. When a load is obtained it 
descends to the nest ; others may be seen going and 
returning continually. Many other kinds of trees, 
shrubs and plants are used by the ants as " cow pas- 
ture," and most kinds of ants are engaged in this dairy 
business.* Would the bees attend on the aphis for 
this secretion, (for it appears to be honey,) if the ant 
was not there first ? Or if there were no ants or bees, 

* The history of insects, as published by Harpers, gives more par- 
ticulars on this interesting subject. 



100 BEE PASTURAGE. 

would tins secretion be discharged, and falling on the 
leaves below them, be honey-dew? If they were 
situated on some lofty trees, and it lodged on the 
leaves of small bushes near the earth, it would, with 
some authors. 

These questions I shall not answer at present. As 
for theory, I shall probably have enough before I get 
through, where I hope the subject may be more in- 
teresting.* 

We will now return to the flowers, and see what 
few there are yet to appear, after the middle of July. 
The button-ball bush (Cephalanthus Occidentals) is 
now much frequented for honey. Also, our vines, 
melons, cucumbers, squashes, and pumpkins. The 
latter are visited only in the morning, and honey is the 
only thing obtained ; notwithstanding the bee is cov- 
ered with farina, it is not kneaded into pellets on its 
legs. I have seen it stated that bees never get honey 
early in the morning, but pollen instead. Now it is 

* Since the foregoing was written, I have made some further observ- 
ations on this subject. In August, 1852, 1 noticed, on passing under 
some willow trees, (Salix Vitellina,) that leaves, grass, and stones, 
were covered with a wet or shining substance. On looking among the 
branches, I found nearly all the smallest were covered with a species 
of large black aphis, apparently engaged in sucking the juices, and 
occasionally discharging a minute drop of a transparent liquid. I 
guessed this might be the honey-clew. As this was early in the morn- 
ing, I resolved to visit this place again, as soon as the sun got up far 
enough to start out the bees, and see if they collected any of it. On 
my return I found not only bees in hundreds, but ants, hornets, and 
wasps. Some were on the branches with the aphis, others on the 
leaves and larger branches. Some of them were even on the stones 
and grass under the trees, collecting it. 



BEE PASTURAGE. 101 

Dot best always to take our word, who pretend to know 
all about it, but look for yourselves into some of these 
matters. Take a look some warm morning, when the 
pumpkins are in bloom, and see whether it is honey or 
pollen they are in quest of. Also please make an 
observation when they are at work on the red rasp- 
berry, motherwort, or catnip ; you will thus ascertain 
a fact so easily, that you will wonder any one with 
the least pretension to apiarian science could be igno- 
rant of it. I mention this, not because it is of much 
importance in itself, but to show the fallibility of us 
all, as we sometimes copy the mistaken assertions of 
others. 

ADVANTAGES OF BUCKWHEAT. 

Under some circumstances, clover will continue to 
bloom through this part of the season ; also, a few 
other flowers ; but I find by weighing, a loss from 
one to six pounds, between the 20th July and the 10th 
of August, when the flowers of buckwheat begin to 
yield honey, which generally proves a second harvest. 
In many places it is their main dependence for surplus 
honey. It is considered by many an inferior quality. 
The color, when separated from comb, resembles 
molasses of medium shade. The taste is more pungent 
than clover honey ; it is particularly prized on tnat 
account by some, and disliked by others for the same 
reason. In the same temperature it is a little thicker 
than other honey, and is sooner candied. 

AMOUNT OF HONEY COLLECTED FROM IT. 

Swarms issuing as late as the 15th July, when they 



102 BEE PASTURAGE, 

commence on buckwheat, sometimes contain not over 
five pounds of stores, and yet make good stocks for 
winter, whereas, without this yield, they might not 
live through October. It fails about once in ten years. 
I have known a swarm to gain in one week sixteen 
pounds, and construct comb to store it at the same 
time. At another time I had a swarm issue the 18th 
August, that obtained thirty pounds in about eighteen 
days. But such buckwheat swarms, in ordinary sea- 
sons, seldom get over fifteen pounds. The flowers 
last from three to five weeks. The time of sowing 
the grain varies in different sections, from the 10th of 
June to the 20th July. Farmers wish to give it just 
time to ripen before frost, as the yield of grain is con- 
sidered better, but as the time of frost is a matter of 
guess-work, some will sow several days earlier than 
others. Whenever an abundant crop of this grain is 
realized, a proportionate quantity of honey is ob- 
tained. 

DO BEES INJURE THE CROP ? 

Many people contend that bees are an injury to this 
crop, by taking away the substance that would be 
formed into grain. The best reasons for this opinion 
that I have obtained are these : "I believe it, and have 
thought so a long time." " It is reasonable if a por- 
tion of this plant is taken away by the bees, there 
must be a less quantity of material left for the form- 
ation of seed, &c." Most of us have learned that a 
person's opinion is not the strongest kind of proof, 
unless he can exhibit substantial reasons for it. Are 
the above reasons satisfactory ? How are the facts? 



BEE PASTURAGE. 103 

The flowers expand, and a set of vessels pour into the 
cup or nectary a minute portion of honey. I am not 
aware that any one contends that the plant has 
another set of vessels prepared to again absorb this 
honey and convert it into grain. But strong testi- 
mony proves very plainly that it never again enters 
the stalk or flower, but evaporates like water. We 
all know that animal matter when putrid will be dis- 
solved into particles small enough to float in the 
atmosphere, too minute for the naked eye. When 
passing off in this way this real flesh and blood would 
escape notice perhaps altogether, and never be detect- 
ed, were it not for the olfactories, which on some 
occasions notify us of its presence very forcibly. In 
passing a field of buckwheat in bloom, by the same 
means we are assured of the presence of honey in the 
air. Now what is the difference whether this honey 
passes off in the air, or is collected by the bees ? If 
any difference, the advantage appears to be in favor 
of the bees getting it, for the reason that it thus 
answers another important end in the economy of 
nature, consistent with her provisions in ten thousand 
different waj^s of adapting means to ends. Most 
breeders of domestic animals are aware of the deterio- 
rating qualities induced by in-and-in breeding; a 
change of breed is found necessary for perfection, &c. 

ARE NOT BEES AN ADVANTAGE 10 VEGETATION '£ 

Vegetable physiology seems to indicate a similar 
necessity in that department. The stamens and pistils 
of flowers answer the different organs of the two sexes 



104 BEE PASTURAGE. 

in animals. The pistil is connected with the ovaries, the 
stamens furnish the pollen that must come in contact 
with the pistil ; in other words, it 'must be impregnated 
by this dust from the stamens, or no fruit will be pro- 
duced. Now if it be necessary to change the breed, 
or essential that the pollen produced by the stamens 
of one flower shall fertilize the pistil of another, to 
prevent barrenness, what should we contrive better 
than the arrangement already made by Him who knew 
the necessity and planned it accordingly ? And it works 
so admirably, that we can hardly avoid the conclu- 
sion that bees lucre intended for this important purpose ! 
It is thus planned ! Their wants and their food shall 
consist of honey and pollen ; each flower secretes but 
little, just enough to attract the bee; nothing like a 
full load is obtained from one ; were it thus, the end in 
view would not be answered ; but a hundred or more 
flowers are often visited in one excursion ; the pollen 
obtained from the first may fertilize many, previous to 
the bees' returning to the hive ; thus a Held of buck- 
wheat may be kept in health and vigor in its future 
productions. A field of wheat produces long slender 
stalks that yield to the influence of the breeze, and 
one ear is made to bestow its pollen on a neighboring 
ear several feet distant, thereby effecting just what 
bees do for buckwheat. Corn, from its manner of 
growth, the upright stalk bearing the stamens some 
feet above the pistils, on the ears below, seems to need 
no agency of bees ; the superabundant pollen from 
the tassel is wafted by the winds rods from the pro- 
ducing stalk, and there does its office of fertilizing a 



BEE PAST UK-AGE. 105 

distant ear, as is proved by different varieties mixing 
at some distance. But how is it with our vines trail- 
ing on the earth, a part of these flowers producing 
stamens, the other only pistils ? Now it is absolutely 
essential that pollen from the staminate flowers shall 
be introduced into the pistillate to produce fruit ; 
because if a failure occurs in this matter the germ 
will wither and die. Here we have the agent ready 
for our purpose ; these flowers are visited by the bee 
promiscuously ; no pollen (as was said) is kneaded 
into pellets, (particularly that from pumpkins,) but it 
adheres to every part of their body, rendering it next 
to impossible for a bee thus covered with dust to enter 
the pistillated flower without fulfilling the important 
duty designed, and leave a portion of the fertilizing 
dust in its proper place. Hence it is reasonably in- 
ferred by many, that if it was not for this agent among 
our vines, the uncertainty of a crop from non-fertili- 
zation would render the cultivation of them a useless 
task. 

When the aphis is located on the stalk or leaf of a 
plant it is furnished with means to pierce the surface 
and extract the juices essential to the formation of 
the plant, thereby preventing vigorous growth and a 
full development. This idea is too apt to be associ- 
ated with the bee when she visits the flower, as if 
she was armed with a spear, to pierce bark or stem 
and rob it of its nourishment. Her real structure is 
lost sight of, or perhaps never known ; her slender 
brush-like tongue folded closely under her neck, and 
seldom seen except when in use, is not fitted to pierce 
5* 



106 ^BEE PASTURAGE. 

the most delicate substance ; all that it can be used 
for is to sweep or lick up the nectar as it exudes from 
the pores of the flower, secreted, it would seem, for no 
other purpose but to attract her — while there she 
obtains nothing but what nature has provided for her 
and given her the means of obtaining, and the most 
delicate petal receives no injury. 

During an excursion the bee seldom visits more 
than a single species of flower ; were it otherwise, and 
all kinds of flowers were visited promiscuously, by 
fertilizing one species with the pollen from another, 
the vegetable kingdom would be very likely to get 
into confusion. Writers, when noticing the peculiarity 
of instinct governing the bee here, cannot be content 
always, but must add other marvels. They follow 
this trait into the hive, and make her store every kind 
by itself there. Relative to honey it is not an easy 
matter to be positive ; but pollen is of a variety of 
colors, generally yellow, yet sometimes pale-green, and 
reddish or dark-brown. Now I think a little patient 
inspection would have satisfied any one that two 
kinds are sometimes packed in one cell, and prevented 
the assertion to the contrary. I will admit that two 
colors are seldom found packed together, but some- 
times will be. I have thus found it, and it has en- 
tirely ruined that theory for me. 

A TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF QUEEN DOUBTED. 

It is further asserted that if a hive loses its queen 
" no pollen is collected." Also, " that such quantities 
are sometimes collected, and fill so many cells, that 



BEE PASTURAGE. 107 

too little room is left for brood, and the stock rapidly 
dwindles away in consequence." The first of these 
assertions has been given as a test to decide whether 
the hive contains a queen or not. Now my bees have 
such a habit of doing things wrong that the above is 
no test whatever. It is made to appear very well in 
theory, but wants the truth in practice. I will say 
what I have known on this point, and perhaps clear 
up the difficulty of a stock containing an unusual 
quantity of bee-bread with the honey, and instead of 
being the cause of its having but few bees, it is the effect. 
Stocks and sometimes swarms lose their queen in the 
swarming season, (the particulars will be given in 
another place,) when, instead of remaining idle, the 
usual quantity of both pollen and honey is collected 
(unless the family is very small). There being no 
larvae to consume the bread, the consequence is, more 
than half the breeding cells will contain it ; they will 
be packed about two-thirds full, and finished out with 
honey. I have known a large family left under such 
circumstances, and about all the cells in the hive 
would be occupied. Whereas, in a stock containing 
a queen and rearing brood, a portion of the combs will 
be used for this purpose until the flowers fail, and then 
such comb will be found empty. 

AN EXTRA QUANTITY OF POLLEN NOT ALWAYS DETRIMENTAL. 

To test w r hether this extra quantity of bee-bread 
was so very detrimental, I have introduced into such 
hive in the fall a family with a queen and wintered 
them in it, and watched their prosperity another year. 



108 BEE PASTURAGE. 

and never found them less profitable on that account. 
I am so well satisfied of this, that whenever I now 
have a hive in such a situation, it is a rule to intro- 
duce a swarm. 

. It is calculated, I believe, generally, that when me- 
dium-sized hives are full, about seven-eighths of the 
cells are made the proper diameter for raising the 
workers, the remainder for drones, except a few for 
queens. Here is one circumstance I do not remember 
to have seen mentioned, and that is, bee-bread is gen- 
erally packed exclusively in the worker cells. I would 
say always ; but I would do better to be careful, espe- 
cially as I find my bees doing things so differently from 
some others. I might as well remark here, that when 
taking combs from a hive filled with honey, if such 
pieces were selected as contained only the large or 
drone cells, but little risk of bee-bread would occur ; 
of the other combs, the outside sheets and the corners 
of the others near the top are the next best. The 
sheets of comb used principally for raising workers, 
and the cells next those so used, for an inch or two in 
width, are nearly all packed with pollen, and much of 
it will remain, when the breeding season is past. 
Smaller portions are found in the worker cells in nearly 
all parts of the hive ; even the boxes will sometimes 
contain a little. 

MANNER OF PACKING STORES. 

In a glass hive, the bees may be seen depositing their 
load of pollen ; the legs holding the pellets are thrust 
into the cell, (not their heads), and a motion like rub* 



BEE PASTUKAGE. 109 

bing them together is made for a half minute, when 
the}^ are withdrawn, and the two little loaves of bread 
may be seen at the bottom. This bee appears to take 
no farther care about them, but another will soon come 
along, and enter the cell head first, and pack it close ; 
this cell is filled about two- thirds of its length in this 
way, and when sealed over a little honey is used to fill 
it out. 

PHILOSOPHY IN FILLING A CELL WITH HONEY. 

To witness the operation of depositing honey, a glass 
hive or box is requisite ; the edges of the combs will 
be attached to the glass — when honey is abundant, 
most of these cells next the glass will contain some. 
Now is the time to see the operation, glass forming one 
side of such as are in contact, &c. The bee may be seen 
to enter the cell till it reaches the bottom ; with its 
tongue, the first particle is deposited, and brushed into 
the corners or angles, carefully excluding all the air 
from behind it — as it is filled, that next the sides of the 
cell is kept in advance of the» centre. The bee does 
not put its tongue in the centre and pour out its load 
there, but carefully brushes the sides as it fills, exclud- 
ing every particle of air, and keeps the surface concave 
instead of convex. This is j list as a philosopher would 
say it should be. If it was filled at once and no care 
taken to attach it to the sides, why, the external air 
would never keep it there, which it does effectually 
when of ordinary length. When the cell is about one- 
fourth of an inm deep they often commence filling it, 
and as it is lengthened they add to it, keeping it within 



110 BEE PASTURAGE. 

an eighth of an inch of the end ; it is never quite full 
till nearly sealed over, and often not then. In cells 
of the worker size, the sealing seldom touches the 
honey. But in the size for drones the case is different ; 
the honey on the end touches the sealing, about half 
the diameter on the lower side ; it is kept in the same 
shape while being filled; but being somewhat larger, 
the atmospheric pressure is less effectual in keeping 
the honey in its place ; consequently, when they com- 
mence sealing these cells they begin on the lower side 
and finish at the top. 

LONG CELLS SOMETIMES TURNED UPWARD. 

"When storing honey in boxes, cells of this size are 
usually much longer, in which case they are crooked, 
the ends turning upward, sometimes half an inch or 
more; this, of course, will prevent the honey from 
running, but if the box is taken off and turned over 
before such cells are sealed, they are very sure to spill 
most of their contents. The cells in the breeding 
apartment, of ordinary length, will hold the honey well 
enough as long as horizontal ; but turn the hive on its 
side, and bring the open end downward, in hot wea- 
ther, or break out a piece and hold it in that position, 
the air will not sustain it in them, but will, in the size 
suitable for workers. 

When the hive is fully supplied with bees and honey, 
(unless destitute of a queen,) I never examined one, 
winter or summer, but it had a number of unsealed 
cells containing honey, as well as pollen; it is so when 
they have stored fifty pounds in boxes, even when so 



BEE PASTURAGE. Ill 

crowded for room as to store honey outside or under 
the bottom-board ; ever having some cells open for a 
ready supply. 

Young swarms seem unwilling to construct combs 
faster than needed for use ; it would appear, at first 
thought, to be a lack of economy. When no honey is 
to be obtained and nothing to do, then it would seem 
to be a fine chance for getting ready for a yield ; but 
this is not their way of doing business ; whether they 
cannot spare the honey already collected to elaborate 
the wax, or whether they find it more difficult to keep 
the worms from a large quantity of comb, I shall not 
decide. Of this I am satisfied, that it is better arranged 
by their instincts, than we could do it. Large swarms, 
when first located, if honey is abundant, will extend 
their combs from top to bottom in a little more than 
two weeks ; but such hive is not yet full: some sheets 
of comb may contain honey throughout their whole 
length, and not a cell be sealed over ; but, however, 
they generally find time to finish up within a few inches 
of the lower end as they proceed. Whenever unfinish 
ed cells contain honey, it will generally be removed 
soon after the flowers fail, and used before that which 
is sealed ; and the cells will remain empty till another 
year. 

IS A DRY OR WET SEASON BEST FOR HONEY 1 

The inquiry is often made, "What kind of season is 
best for bees, wet or dry ?" This point I have watched 
very closely, and have found that a medium between 
the two extremes produces most honey. When farm- 



112 BEE PASTURAGE. 

ers begin to express fears of a drought, then is the time 
(if in the season of flowers) that most honey is obtain- 
ed; but if dry weather passes these limits, the quan- 
tity is greatly diminished. Of the two extremes, per- 
haps very wet is the worst. 

HOW MANY STOCKS SHOULD BE KEPT. 

" What number of stocks can there be kept in one 
place ?" is another question often asked. This is like 
Mr. A. asking farmer B. how many cattle could be 
pastured in a lot of ten acres. Farmer B. would first 
wish to know how much pasture said lot would pro- 
duce, before he could begin to answer; since one lot 
of that size might produce ten times as much as the 
other. So with bees, one apiary of two hundred stocks 
might find honey in abundance for all, and another of 
forty might almost starve. Like the cattle, it depends 
on pasture. * 

THREE PRINCIPAL SOURCES OF HONEY. 

There are three principal sources of honey, viz. : — 
clover, basswood, and buckwheat. But clover is the 
only universal dependance ; as that is almost every- 
where, to some extent, in the country. Buckwheat in 
some places is the main source ; in others, basswood, 
which is of brief duration. Where all three are abund- 
ant, there is the true El Dorado of the apiarian ! With 
plenty of clover and buckwheat, it is nearly as well. 
Even with clover alone, enormous quantities of honey 
are obtained. I have said what was our dependence 
in this section. I will further say that within a circle 



BEE PASTUKAGE. 113 

of three or four miles, there are kept about three hun- 
dred stocks. I have had for several years, three apia- 
ries about two miles apart, averaging in spring a little 
more than fifty in each. When a good season for clo- 
ver occurs, as many more would probably do equally 
well/but in some other seasons I have had too many ; 
on an average nearly right. When clover furnishes 
too little honey for the number, buckwheat usually 
supplies more than is collected. Of surplus honey, the 
proportion is about fifteen pounds of buckwheat to one 
of clover. I have now been speaking of large apiaries. 
There can hardly be a section of country found, that 
man can procure his living, but what a few stocks 
would thrive, even if there were no dependence on 
the sources just mentioned. There will be some honey- 
yielding flowers in nearly all places. The evil of over- 
stocking is of short duration, and will work its own 
cure speedily. Some judgment is required here as well 
as in other matters. 

Another question of some interest, is the distance 
that a bee will travel in search of honey in flowers — 
it is evident that it will be farther than they will go 
to plunder a stock. I have heard of their being found 
seven miles from home. It was said they ascertained, 
by sprinkling flour on them as they left the hive in 
the morning, and then saw the same bees that distance 
away. When we consider the chances of finding a bee 
even one mile from the hive thus marked, it appears 
like a " poor look ;" and then pollen the color of flour 
might deceive us. It is difficult to prove that bees go 



114 WAX. 

even two miles. Let us say we guess at it, foi the 
present. 



CHAPTER V. 

WAX. 

The careless, unreflecting observer, when seeing the 
bees enter the hive with a pellet of pollen on each of 
their posterior legs, is very apt to conclude that it 
must be material for comb, as it appears unlike honey. 
So little regard is paid to the matter by many people, 
that they are unable to imagine any other use for it. 
Others suppose that it will change from that to honey, 
after being stored a time in the hive, and wonder at 
the curious phenomenon ; but when asked how long 
a time must elapse before it takes place, they cannot 
tell exactly, but they " have found cells where it be- 
gan to change, as a portion near the outer end of the 
cell had become honey, and no doubt the remainder 
would in time." It has been remarked that cells were 
only filled about two-thirds full of this, and finished 
with honey ; now when any one finds a cell filled to 
the brim with pollen, and no honey, such reasoning 
will apply better. If this was the case, by examining 
at different periods through the summer, we certainly 
should find some cells before the change had com- 
menced, instead of their always being in just this stage 
of transition. 



wax. 115 

18 POLLEN CONVERTED INTO WAX? 

As for pollen being converted into wax or comb, a 
simple question will show its fallacy. Do not the bees 
belonging to a hive that is full of combs, and no more 
wax for that purpose needed, bring home as much and 
often more pollen than one half full ? Any person 
who has watched two such hives five minutes when 
busily engaged at work, can answer. It is evident t 
then, that pollen is for something else besides wax. 

HOW IS IT OBTAINED ? 

The inquiry is now made, " Where do they get it 
from, if not from pollen?" I might with propriety 
answer, they don't get it at all. "Stop, there, if you 
please ; if you expect us to credit you, you must not 
give us too much absurdity." Well, let me ask a 
question. Do cattle when grazing actually obtain 
flesh, bone, &c, or only the materials from which these 
parts are secreted ? As to the production of wax, I 
believe all close observers (that I have found) agree 
that it is a secretion natural only to the bee. With 
the ox, fruit, grain, or grass may be converted into 
tallow ; with the bee, honey and syrup made of sugar 
may be converted into wax. These are probably the 
only two substances yet discovered from which they 
extract it. Some writers have pretended that pollen 
is also used, but they have failed to prove that the 
old bees consume it at any time ; which they must in 
this case if it is converted into wax. From experi- 
ments related by Huber, either of these substances, 
mixed with a little water, is all sufficient for its pro- 



116 wax. 

duction. From experiments of my own, I am satisfied 
that he is correct. The experiment is tried by shut- 
ting up a swarm when first hived ; feeding them with 
honey — a few of the bees will probably have some 
pollen, though not enough to make a comb three 
inches square, yet it is something — and to be certain, 
time must be given them to exhaust it. In three or 
four days take out the bees and remove the combs ; 
inclose them again, and feed with honey as before. 
Eepeat the process, until satisfied that no pollen is 
needed in the composition of wax. Huber removed 
the combs "five times,' 7 with the same result at every 
trial. Whenever bees are confined in hot weather, air 
and water are absolutely necessary. 

We will now describe the first appearance of wax, 
and how it is produced. When a swarm of bees is 
about leaving the parent stock, three-fourths or more 
of them will fill their sacks with honey. When located 
in their new home, of course no cells exist to hold it ; 
it must remain in the stomach or sack for several 
hours. The consequence is, that thin white scales of 
wax the sixteenth of an inch in diameter, somewhat 
circular, are formed between the rings of the abdomen, 
under side. With the claws of one of their hind legs 
one of these is detached and conveyed to the mouth, 
and there pinched with their forceps or teeth, until 
one edge is worked somewhat rough ; it is then ap- 
plied to the comb being constructed, or to the roof of 
the hive. The first rudiments of comb are often applied 
within the first half hour after the swarm is hived. 
In the history of insects before noticed, is a minute 



WAX. 117 

account of the first foundation of combs, somewhat 
amusing, if not instructive. 

huber's account of a commencement of comb. 
Huber, it is said, " having provided a hive with 
honey and water, it was resorted to in crowds by bees, 
who, having satisfied their appetite, returned to the 
hive. They formed festoons, remained motionless for 
twenty-four hours, and after a time scales of wax 
appeared. An adequate supply of wax for the con- 
struction of a comb having been elaborated, one of 
them disengaged itself from the centre of the group, 
and clearing a space about an inch in diameter, at the 
top of the hive, applied the pincers of one of its legs 
to its side, detached a scale of wax, and immediately 
began to mince it with the tongue. During the opera- 
tion, this organ was made to assume every variety of 
shape ; sometimes it appeared like a trowel, then 
flattened like a spatula, and at other times like a 
pencil, ending in a point. The scale, moistened with a 
frothy liquid, became glutinous, and was drawn out 
like a riband. This bee then attached all the wax it 
could concoct to the vault of the hive, and went its 
way. A second now succeeded, and did the like ; a 
third followed, but owing to some blunder did not put 
the wax in the same line with its predecessor ; upon 
which another bee, apparently sensible of the defect, 
removed the displaced wax, and carrying it to the 
former heap, deposited it there, exactly in the order 
and direction pointed out." Now I have some objec- 
tions to make to this account. First, in the usual 



118 WAX. 

course of swarming, it is unnecessary to piovide the 
honey and water, as they come laden with honey from 
the parent stock. Next, to form festoons and remain 
motionless twenty-four hours to concoct the wax, is 
not the way they generally manage affairs. They 
either swallow the honey before leaving home long 
enough to have the wax ready, or less time than 
twenty-four hours is needed to produce it. I have 
frequently found lumps, half the size of a pin's head, 
attached to the branch of a tree where they had clus- 
tered, when they had not been there over twenty-five 
minutes. I have had occasion a few times to change 
the swarm to another tenement, an hour or two after 
being hived, and found places on the top nearly cov- 
ered with wax. How it was managed to see a bee quit 
the " group," is more than I can comprehend ; and then 
the tongue to be the only instrument used to mould 
the scale of wax, is another difficulty ; to witness the 
whole process minutely in this stage of comb-making 
has never been my good fortune, and I am sometimes 
inclined to doubt the success of others. I have had 
glass hives, and put swarms in them, and always found 
the first rudiments of comb so entirely covered with 
bees as to prevent my seeing anything. 

BEST TIME TO WITNESS COMB-MAKING. 

The only time when I have witnessed the process 

with any degree of satisfaction, is when the combs 

* approach the glass, and but few bees in the way ; then, 

by watching patiently a few minutes, some part of the 

process may be seen. 



WAX. 119 

MANNER OF WORKING WAX. 

Transferring the swarms to different hives from one 
to forty-eight hours after being hived, will show their 
progress. I have found that wax is attached to the 
top of the hive at first promiscuously, that is, without 
the least order, until some* of the blocks or lumps 
are sufficiently advanced for them to begin cells. The 
scales of wax are welded on the edge quite thick, 
without regard to the shape of the cell, then an ex- 
cavation is made on one side for the bottom of a cell, 
and two others on the opposite side; the division 
between them exactly opposite the centre of the first. 
When this piece is an inch or two in length, two other 
pieces at equal distances on each side are commenced. 
If the swarm is large, and honey abundant, it is 
common for two pieces of comb to be started at one 
time on different parts of the top ; the sheets in the 
two places are often at right angles, or any other way, 
just as chance happens to give direction. The little 
lumps that are placed at random at first are all re- 
moved as they advance. 

While the combs are in progress, the edges are 
always kept much the thickest, and the base of the 
cell is worked down to the proper thickness with 
their teeth, and polished smooth as glass. The ends 
of the cell also, as they lengthen them, will always be 
found much thicker than any other part of it when 
finished. 

When two combs approach each other in the mid- 
dle of the hive at nearly right angles, an edge of 
comb is left there; but when an obtuse angle, the 



120 wax. 

edges are generally joined, making a sheet of crooked 
comb. It is evident where the two combs join, there 
must be some irregular cells unfit for rearing brood. 

ARE CROOKED COMBS A DISADVANTAGE? 

These few irregular cells have been considered a 
great disadvantage. It is thought, or pretended, that 
there is a vast difference between the prosperity of a 
stock with straight combs and one with crooked ones. 
To avoid them, or cause the bees to make them all 
straight, has given rise to much contrivance, as if a 
few such cells could effect much. Suppose there 
were a dozen sheets of comb in a hive, and each one 
had a row or more of such irregular cells from top to 
bottom, what proportion would they hold to those 
that were perfect ? Perhaps not one in a thousand. 
Hence we infer that in a hive of the proper size, the 
difference in amount of brood never could be per- 
ceived. This is the only difference it can make, be- 
cause such cells can be used for storing honey as well 
as others. But sometimes there will be corners and 
spaces not wide enough for two combs, and too wide 
for one of the proper thickness for breeding. As bees 
use all their room economically, and generally at the 
best advantage, a thick comb will be the result. It is 
said they never use such thick combs for breeding. 
How are the facts? I have just such a space in a 
glass hive ; one comb two inches thick. How is it 
managed ? Towards fall this sheet is filled with 
honey ; the cells outside are lengthened until there is 
just room for a bee to pass between them and the 



WAX. 121 

glass, when they are sealed over. In spring these 
long cells are all cut down (except at the top and 
upper corners) to the proper length for breeding, and 
used for this purpose. This has been done for five 
years in succession. 

I will grant that there is a little waste room in such 
spaces, for part of the year. It amounts to but little, 
as it is only outside. They are necessitated to make 
such combs, because the inside combs, if built in a 
breeding apartment, however crooked one may be, the 
next one will generally match it, the right distance 
from it. But when they are built expressly for stor- 
ing honey, in such as are made in boxes, the right 
distance is not so well preserved ; hence it is not 
recommended to compel bees to use such storing 
apartment for breeding. But suppose we should com- 
pel a swarm to labor under these disadvantages, I 
should not apprehend such disastrous results, (pro- 
viding they have a proper proportion of worker cells,) 
as no swarms, or even no surplus honey, as has been 
represented. Imagine a hive filled with combs that 
are all too thick, and room wasted when cut down, to 
the amount of one-fourth of all that is in the hive. 
Now here are combs enough left to mature three- 
fourths as many bees as in an ordinary hive, where 
all are right. We can now suppose a good swarm 
will bring home the same amount of honey as though 
it belonged to other hives ; only three-fourths as 
much can be fed to the brood, and stored in the hive; 
and the result ought to be, that we get a quarter more 
surplus honey in boxes. Even if we get no swarm, I 
6 



122 wax. 

cannot see how our surplus honey can be less, as in 
this case there would be more bees at all- times than 
in a hive that had been reduced by swarming. 

Does experience substantiate the theory that stocks 
with crooked combs are as profitable as when they 
are straight ? When combs are built expressly for 
breeding, I could never discover any difference. Any 
person can easily test it by a little observation ; not 
by taking a solitary instance of only one hive, be- 
cause some other cause might produce the result. 
Take a half-dozen at least with straight combs, and 
as many with them crooked ; have them all alike in 
other respects, and carefully watch the result. I think 
you will have but little interest which way the combs 
are made, providing they are made, as far as profit is 
concerned. It is true, it would gratify order to have 
them all straight, and if it was not attended with more 
trouble than the result would pay for, it would be 
well to have them so. 

In ordinary circumstances, when a swarm is first 
hived, they set about comb-making immediately ; yet 
sometimes they will remain two days, and not make a 
particle. I have known them to swarm out and cluster 
in the usual way, and when rehived, commence at once. 
This seems to prove that they can retain the wax, or 
prevent secreting it, till wanted. This seldom occurs. 

UNCERTAINTY IN WEIGHT OF BEES. 

A large swarm will probably carry with them some 
five or six pounds of honey from the parent stock. 
I onty guess at this, because I am uncertain what the 



wax. 123 

bees weigh exactly. "I can tell you," some one ex* 
claims, " I saw some weighed, — so many weigh just 
eight ounces." Are you sure there was nothing but 
bees weighed? Was there no honey, bee-bread, faeces, 
or other substance, that might deceive you ? " Can't 
say ; I never thought of that!" Now it is important, 
if we weigh bees to know their weight, to be sure 
we weigh nothing else. It is evident, that if five 
thousand weigh three pounds, when nothing is in their 
sacks, they would weigh, when filled with honey, 
several pounds more. Hence, the fallacy of judging 
of the size of a swarm by weight, as one swarm 
might issue with half the honey of another. Per- 
haps eight pounds, for large swarms, might be an av- 
erage for bees and honey. This honey, whatever it 
amounts to, cannot be stored till combs are construct- 
ed to hold it. This principle holds good till the hive 
is full. That is, whenever they have more honey than 
the combs will hold, if there is room in the hive, they 
construct more. But they seem to go no farther than 
this in comb-making. However large the swarm may 
be, this compulsion appears necessary to fill the hive. 
Drone-cells are seldom made in the top of the hive, 
but a part are generally joined on the worker-cells, 
a little distance from the top ; others near the bottom. 
There seems to be no rule about the number of such 
cells. Some hives will contain twice the number of 
others. It may depend on the yield of honey at the 
time ; when very plenty, more drone-cells, &c. If the 
hive be very large, no doubt an unprofitable number 
would be constructed. Where the large and small 



124 wax. 

cells join, there will be some cells of irregular shape ; 
some with four or five angles ; the distance from one 
angle to the other is also varied. Even where two 
combs of cells the same size join, making a straight 
comb, they are not always perfect. 

SOME WAX WASTED. 

When constructing comb, they are constantly wast- 
ing wax, either accidentally or voluntarily. The next 
morning after a swarm is located, the scales may be 
found, and will continue to increase as long as they 
are working it ; the quantity often amounts to a hand- 
ful or more. It is the best test of comb-making that I 
can give. Clean off the board and look the next morn- 
ing, you will find the scales in proportion to their 
progress. Some will be nearly round as at first ; oth- 
ers more or less worked up, and a part will be like 
fine saw-dust. 

Huber and some others have divided the working 
bees into different classes, denominating some wax- 
workers, others nurses, and pollen gatherers, &c. It 
may be partially true, but how it was found out is the 
mystery. 

The angles in the cells used for brood, are gradual- 
ly filled, and after a time become round, both at the 
ends and sides. 

WATER NECESSARY TO COMB-MAKING. 

Whenever bees are engaged making comb, a supply 
of water is absolutely necessary. Some think it re- 
quisite in rearing brood. It may be needed for that, 



wax. 125 

or it may be required for both purposes , but yet I 
ha ve doubts if a particle is given to the young bee, be- 
sides what the honey contains. June, and first part of 
July, and most part of August (the season of buck- 
wheat,) are periods of extensive comb-making ; they 
then use most water; breeding is carried on from 
March till October, and as extensively in May, per- 
haps more so, than in August, yet not a tenth part of 
the water is used in May. 

I have known stocks repeatedly to mature brood 
from the egg to the perfect bee, when shut in a dark 
room for months, when it was impossible to obtain a 
drop ; also stocks that stand in the cold, (if good,) will 
mature some brood whether the bees can leave the 
hive or not. These facts prove that some are reared 
without water. As they get sufficient honey to re- 
quire more comb to store it, they will at the same 
time have a brood ; and it is easy to guess they need 
it for brood as comb, without a little investigation. 
This much is certain, that they use water at such times 
for some purpose, and when no pond, brook, spring, 
or other source is within convenient distance, the api- 
arian would find it economy to place some within their 
reach, as it would save much valuable time, if they 
would otherwise have to go a great distance, when 
they might be more profitably employed ; it always 
happens in a season of honey. It should be so situa- 
ted that the bees may obtain it without jeopardizing 
their lives ; — a barrel or pail has sides so steep that a 
great many will slip off and drown. A trough made 
very shallow, with a good broad strip around the edge 



126 wax. 

to afford an alighting place, should be provided. The 
middle should contain a float, or a handful of shavings 
spread in the water with a few small stones laid on 
them to prevent their being blown away when the 
water is out, is very convenient. A tin dish an inch 
or so in depth, will do very well. The quantity need- 
ed may be ascertained by what is used — only give them 
enough, and change it daily. I have no trouble of 
this kind, as there is a stream of water within a few 
rods of the hives ; but I have an opportunity to wit- 
ness something of the number engaged in carrying it. 
Thousands may be seen (in June and August) filling 
their sacks, while a continual stream is on the wing, 
going and returning. 

REMARKS. 

The exact and uniform size of their cells is perhaps 
as great a mystery as anything pertaining to them ; 
yet, we find the second wonder before we are done 
with the first. In building comb, they have no square 
or compass as a guide ; no master mechanic takes the 
lead, measuring and marking for the workmen ; each 
individual among them is a finished mechanic ! No 
time is lost as an apprentice, no service given in re- 
turn for instruction ! Each is accomplished from birth I 
All are alike ; what one begins, a dozen may help to 
finish ! A specimen of their work shows itself to be 
from the hands of master workmen, and may be taken 
as a model of perfection ! He, who arranged the uni- 
verse, was their instructor. Yes, a profound geometri- 
cian planned the first cell, and knowing what would 



wax 127 

be their wants, implanted in the censorium of the first 
bee, all things pertaining to their welfare ; the impress 
then given, is yet retained unimpaired ! They need 
no lectures on domestic economy to tell them, by using 
the base of one set of cells on one side of their combs, 
for the base of those on the opposite, will save both 
labor and wax ; no mathematician that a pyramidal 
base, just three angles, with just such an inclination, 
will be the exact shape needed, and consume much 
less wax than round or square — that the base of one 
cell of three angles, would form a part of the base of 
three other cells on the opposite side of the comb — 
that each of the six sides of one cell forms one side of 
six others around it — that these angles and these only 
would answer their ends. 

"The bees appear," says Eeaumer, "to have a 
problem to solve, which would puzzle many a mathe- 
matician. A quantity of matter being given, it is re- 
quired to form out of it cells, which shall be equal, 
and similar, and of a determinate size, but the largest 
possible with relation to the quantity of matter em- 
ployed, while they shall occupy the least possible 
space !" 

How little does the epicure heed, when feasting on 
the fruits of their industry, that each morsel tasted 
must destroy the most perfect specimens of workman- 
ship ! that in a moment he can demolish what it has 
taken hours, yes days, perhaps weeks, of assiduous toil 
and labor ; for the bees to accomplish ! 



128 PROPOLIS. 

CHAPTEE VI. 

PROPOLIS. 
WHAT USED FOR. 

This substance is first used to solder up all the 
cracks, flaws, and irregularities about the hive. A 
coat is then spread over the inside throughout ; when 
the hive is full, and many bees cluster outside, the 
latter part of summer, a coat of it is also spread there, 
An additional coat it seems is annually applied, as old 
hives will be coated with a thickness proportionate to 
its age, providing it has been occupied with a strong 
family. Huber has said it was also used to strengthen 
the cells when first made, by mixing it with the wax. 
If it was their practice at that time, the practice has 
been abandoned by our bees to a great extent. I 
have made examinations when comb was first made, 
when it contained eggs, and when it contained larvae, 
and have never been able to find anything other than 
pure wax composing it. After a young bee has 
matured in a cell, the coating or cocoon that it leaves 
is of a dark color, somewhat resembling it, and may 
have given rise to the supposition. How the article 
is obtained, appears to be the mystery. This is a sub- 
ject about which apiarians have failed to agree. A 
few contend that it is an elaborated substance ; while 
others assert it to be a resinous gum, exuding from 
certain trees, and collected by the bees like pollen. 
It differs materially from wax, being more tenacious, 
and when it gets a little age, much harder. 



PROPOLIS. 129 

IS IT AN ELABORATE OR NATURAL SUBSTANCE 1 

No modern observer has ever been able to detect 
the bees in the act of gathering it. 

huber's opinion. 
Huber tells us, that " near the outlet of one of his 
hives, he placed some of the branches of the poplar, 
which exudes a transparent juice, the color of garnet. 
Several workers were soon seen perched upon these 
branches, — having detached some of this resinous 
gam, they formed it into pellets, and deposited them 
in the baskets of their thighs ; thus loaded, they flew 
to the hive, where some of their fellow-laborers in- 
stantly came to assist them in detaching this viscid 
substance from their baskets." Some of our modern 
apiarians have doubted this account of Huber's. 
Now, in the absence of anything positive on this sub- 
ject, I am inclined to adopt this theory ; that it is a 
resin or gum produced by trees. (I cannot say that I 
am exactly satisfied with the story of bringing the 
" branches and laying them by the hive," &c.) That 
bees gather it in its natural state, is in accordance with 
my own observation. 

FURTHER PROOF. 

Our first swarms that issue in May, or first of June, 
seldom use much of the article pure for soldering and 
plastering ; but instead, a composition, the most of 
which is wax. I have noticed at this season, when 
old pieces of boards that had been used for hives, 
were left in the sun, that this old propolis would 
become soft in the middle of the day. Here I have 
frequently seen the bees at work, packing it upon their 



130 PROPOLIS. 

legs ; it was detached in small particles, and the pro- 
cess of packing was seen distinctly, as the bee did not 
fly daring the operation, as in the case of packing 
pollen. It is asserted thnt when bees need it they 
always have it, indicating that they can elaborate it 
like wax. I can see no reason why they do not need 
it in June as much as August ; yet, in the latter month, 
they use more than a hundred times the quantity. 
At this time, they manifest no disposition to gather 
any from the old boards, &c. It would seem they 
prefer the article new, which they now have in abun- 
dance. Boxes filled in June contain but very little, 
sometimes none. Why not, if they have enough of 
it? but when filled in August, they always have the 
corners, and sometimes the top and sides, lined with 
a good coat. Cracks, large enough for bees to pass 
through, are sometimes completely filled with it. In 
this season, a little before sunset of some fair day, I 
have frequently seen the bees enter the hive with 
what I supposed to be the pure article on their legs, 
like pollen, except the surface, which would be smooth 
and glossy ; the color much lighter than when it gets 
age. I have also seen them through the glass inside, 
when they seemed unable to dislodge it themselves, 
like pollen, and were continually running around 
among those engaged in soldering and plastering; 
when one required a little, it seized hold of the pellet 
with its teeth or forceps, and detached a portion. 
The whole lump will not cleave off at once ; but 
firmly adheres to the leg ; from its tenacity, perhaps a 
string an inch long will be formed in separating, the 



PROPOLIS. 131 

piece obtained is immediately applied to their work, 
and the bee is ready to supply another with a portion ; 
it doubtless gets rid of its load in this way ; it is diffi- 
cult to watch it till it is freed from the whole, as it is 
soon lost among its fellows. Now if this substance is 
not found in its natural state, how does it happen that 
they pack it on their legs just as they do when getting 
it from a board of an old hive, or pollen, when col- 
lected ? they never take the trouble to pack the wax 
there, when elaborated. Do not these circumstances 
strongly favor the idea of its being a vegetable sub- 
stance ? Perhaps the reason of its being collected at 
this season in greater abundance, may be found in the 
fact, that the buds of trees and shrubs are now gener- 
ally formed. Many kinds are protected from rain and 
frost, by a kind of gum or resinous coating. It may 
be found in many species of Populus, particularly the 
balsam poplar, {Populus Balsamifera) and the Balm 
of Gilead, {Populus Gandicans). By boiling the buds 
of these trees, an aromatic resin or gum may be ob- 
tained, (used sometimes for making salve ;) the odor 
is very similar to that emitted by propolis, when first 
gathered by ike bees, or by heating it afterwards. In 
the absence of facts, we are apt to substitute theory. 
This appears to me to be very plausible. Yet I am 
ready to yield it as soon as facts decide differently. 
Perhaps not one bee in a thousand is engaged in col- 
lecting this substance — there being so few may be one 
reason why they are not often detected, yet few as 
they are, if a few of us should set 'about close obser- 
vation, something certain might decide. Apiarian 



132 SPRING. 

science is sadly neglected ; a large amount of error ia 
mixed up with truth, that patient, scrutinizing inves- 
tigation must separate. 

REMARKS. 

I feel anxious to get to the practical part of this 
work, which I hope will interest some readers who care 
but little about the natural history. I shall begin with 
spring, and will now endeavor to mix more of the 
practical with it, as we proceed to the end of the year. 
In order to illustrate some points of practice, I may 
have occasion to repeat some things already mentioned. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE APIARY. 

ITS LOCATION. 

In the location of the apiary, one important consid- 
eration is, that it is convenient to watch in the swarm- 
ing season ; that the bees may be seen at any time 
from a door or window, when a swarm rises, without 
the trouble of taking many steps to accomplish it ; be- 
cause if much trouble is to be taken, it is too often 
neglected. Also, if possible, the hives should stand 
where the wind will have but little effect, especially 
from the northwest. If no hills or building offer a 
protection, a close, high board fence should be put up 
for the purpose. It is economy to do it — bees enough 
may be saved to pay the expense. During the first 
spring months, the stocks contain fewer bees than at 
any other season. It is then that a numerous family 



THE APIARY. 133 

is important, for the purpose of creating animal heat 
to rear the brood, if for nothing else. One bee is of 
more consequence now than a half dozen in midsum- 
mer. When the hive stands in a bleak place, the bees 
returning with heavy loads, in a high* wind, are fre- 
quently unable to strike the hive, and are blown to the 
ground ; become chilled, and die, A chilly south wind 
is equally fatal, but not so frequent. When protected 
from winds, the hives may front any point you choose ; 
east or south is generally preferred. A location near 
ponds, lakes, large rivers, &c, will be attended with 
some loss. Hard winds will fatigue the bees when on 
the wing, often causing them to alight in the water; 
where it is impossible to rise again until wafted ashore, 
and then, unless in very warm weather, they are 
so chilled as to be past the effort. I do not mention 
this to discourage any one from keeping them, when 
so situated, because some few must keep them thus or 
not at all. I am so situated myself. There is a pond 
of four acres, some twelve rods off. In spring, during 
high winds, a great many may be found drowned, and 
driven on shore. Although we cannot miss so few 
from a stock, it is nevertheless a loss as far as it goes. 

DECIDE EARLY. 

Whatever location is chosen, it should be decided 
upon as early in the spring as possible ; because, when 
the chilling winds of winter have ceased for a day, and 
the sun, unobstructed, is sending his first warm rays 
to a frozen earth, the bees that have been inactive for 
months, feel the cheering influence, and come forth 



184 SPRING. 

to enjoy the balmy air. As they come from their 
door, they pause a moment to rub their eyes, which 
have long been obscured in darkness. 

BEES MARK THEIR LOCATION ON LEAVING THE HIVE. 

They rise on the wing, but do not leave in a direct 
line, but immediately turn their heads towards the en- 
trance of their tenement, describing a circle of only a 
few inches at first, but enlarge as they recede, until 
an area of several rods have been viewed and marked. 

CHANGING- STAND ATTENDED WITH LOSS. 

After a few excursions, when surrounding objects 
have become familiar, this precaution is not taken, and 
they leave in a direct ]ine for their destination, and re- 
turn by their way-marks without difficulty. Man with 
his reason is guided on the same principles. There 
are a great many people who suppose the bee knows 
its hive by a kind of instinct, or is attracted towards 
it, like the steel to the magnet. At least, they act as 
if they did ; as they often move their bees a few rods, 
or feet, after the location is thus marked, and what is 
the consequence ? The stocks are materially injured 
by loss of bees, and sometimes entirely ruined. Let 
us trace the cause. As I remarked, the bees have 
marked the location. They leave the hive without 
any precaution, as surrounding objects are familiar. 
They return to their old stand and find no home. If 
there is more than one stock, and the removal has 
been from four to twenty feet, some of the bees may 
find a hive, but just as liable to enter the wrong one 



THE APIARY. 135 

as the right. Probably they would not go over twenty 
feet, and very likely not that, unless the new situation 
was very conspicuous. If a person had but one stock, 
very likely the loss would be less, as every bee finding 
a hive, would be sure to be home, and none killed, as 
is generally the case when a few enter a strange hive. 

CAN BE TAKEN SOME DISTANCE. 

When bees are taken beyond their knowledge of 
country, some two miles or more, the case seems to be 

DANGER OF SETTING STOCKS TOO CLOSE. 

somewhat different, but not always without loss, espe- 
ciallv if many hives are set too close. They leave the 
hive of course without knowing that the situation has 
been changed; perhaps get a few feet before strange 
objects warn them of the fact. When they return, the 
immediate vicinity is strange, and they often enter 
their neighbors' domicil. A case in point occurred in 
the spring of '49. I sold over twenty stocks to one 
person. He had constructed a bee-house, and his ar- 
rangement brought the hives within four inches of 
each other. The result was, he entirely lost several 
stocks ; some of them were the best ; others were ma- 
terially injured, yet he had a few made better by the ad- 
dition of bees from other hives ; (sometimes a stock will 
allow strange bees to unite with them, but it is seldom, 
unless a large number enters — it is safest to keep 
each family by itself, under ordinary circumstances). 
These stocks, before they were moved, had been col* 
lecting pollen, and had their location well marked* 



136 SPRING. 

Had they been placed six feet apart, instead of four 
inches, he probably would not have lost any, or even 
two feet might have saved them. I have often moved 
them at this season, and placed them at three feet dis- 
tance, and had no bad results. 

Facts like the foregoing, satisfied me long since that 
stocks should occupy their situation for the summer, 
as early as possible in the spring, at least before they 
mark the location ; or if they must be moved after 
that, let it be nothing short of a mile and a half, and 
plenty of room between the hives. 

SPACE BETWEEN HIVES. 

As regards the distance between hives generally, I 
would say let it be as great as convenience will allow. 
"Want of room makes it necessary sometimes to set them 
close ; where such necessity exists, if the hives were 
dissimilar in color, some dark, others light, alternately, 
it would greatly assist the bees in knowing their own 
hive. But it should be borne in mind, that whenever 
economy of space dictates less than two feet, there are 
often bees enough lost by entering the wrong hive, 
which, if saved, would pay the rent of a small addition 
to a garden, or bee-yard. I have several other reasons 
to offer for giving plenty of room between hives, which 
will be mentioned hereafter. 

SMALL MATTERS. 

The reader who is accustomed to doing things en 
gigantic principles, will consider this long "yarn" 
about saving a few bees in spring, a rather small 



THE APIARY. 137 

affair^ and so it is ; yet small matters must be attended 
to if we succeed; " a small leak will sink a ship." A 
grain of wheat is a small matter ; 'tis only in the ag- 
gregate that its importance is manifest. The bee is 
small, the load of honey brought home by it is still 
less, and the quantity secreted in the nectary of each 
flower, yet more minute. The patient bee visits each, 
and obtains but a tiny morsel ; by perseverance a load 
is obtained, and deposited in the hive; it is only by 
the accumulation of such loads that we find an object 
worthy our notice : here is a lesson ; look to little 
things, and the manner in which they are multiplied, 
and preserved. It is much better to save our bees 
than waste them, and wait for others to be raised ; 
" a penny saved is worth two-pence earned." If a 
stock is lost by small means, a corresponding effort is 
only necessary to save it. This trifling care is some- 
times neglected through indolence. But I hope for 
better things generally ; I am willing to believe it is 
thorough ignorance, not knowing what kind of care 
is necessary — how, when, and where to bestow it. 
This is what now appears to be my duty to tell. You 
will now sufficiently understand the cause of loss on 
this point ; therefore, let it be a rule to have all ready 
in spring, before the bees leave their hives — the stands, 
bee-house, etc., and not change them. 

ECONOMY. 

If we keep bees for ornament, it would be well to 
build a bee-house, paint the hives, &c. ; but as I ex- 
pect the majority of readers will be interested in the 



138 SPRING. 

profit of the thing, I will say that the bees will not 

pay a cent towards extra expenses; they will not do 
a whit more labor in a painted house, than if it was 
thatched with straw. When profit is the only object, 
economy would dictate that labor shall be bestowed 
only where there will be a remuneration. 

CHEAP ARRANGEMENT OF STANDS. 

So many kinds of bee-houses and stands have been 
recommended — all so different from what I prefer, 
that I perhaps ought to feel some hesitancy in offering 
one so cheap and simple; but as profit is my object, I 
shall offer no other apology. I have fifteen years' ex- 
perience to prove its efficacy, and have no fears on 
this score in recommending it. I make stands in this 
way : a board about fifteen inches wide is cut off two 
feet long; a piece of chestnut or other wood, two inches 
square, is nailed on each end ; this raises the board 
just two inches from the earth, and will project in 
front of the hive some ten inches, making it admirably 
convenient for the bees to alight before entering the 
hive, (when the grass and weeds are kept down, which 
is but little trouble). A separate piece for each hive 
is better than to have several on a bench together, as 
there can then be no communication by bees running 
to and fro. Also we are apt to give more room be- 
tween them ; and a board or plank will make a stand 
for as many stocks when cut in pieces, as if 'eft whole; 
(and it ought to make more). 



THE APIARY. 139 

CANAL BOTTOM-BOARD DISCARDED. 

1 used what is termed a canal bottom-board, until I 
fc and out it did not pay expense, and have now dis- 
carded it, and succeed just as well. It is generally re- 
commended as a preventive of robberies, and keep- 
ing out the moth. It may prevent one hive in fifty 
from being robbed ; but as for keeping out the moth, 
it is about as good an assistant for it as can be con- 
trived. It is a place of great convenience for the worms 
to spin their cocoons, and some ingenuity of the apia- 
rian is requisite to get at them. 

SOME ADVANTAGE IN BEING NEAR THE EARTH. 

I am aware that I go counter to most apiarians, in 
recommending the stands so near the earth ; less than 
two or three feet between the bees and the earth, it is 
said, will not answer any way. Mr. Miner is very po- 
sitive on this point, in his Manual. I ventured to sug- 
gest to him, that there was more against it in theory, 
than in practice, and gave him my experience. In 
less than two years from that time I visited him, and 
found his bees close to the earth. Experience is worth 
a dozen theories ; in fact, it is the only test to be de- 
pended upon. I shall not urge the adoption of any 
rule, that I have not proved by my own practice. The 
objection raised, is dampness from the earth, when too 
near ; I am unable to perceive the least bad effect. 
Now let us compare advantages and disadvantages a 
little farther. One hive or a row of hives suspended, 
or standing on a bench, two or three feet from the earth, 
when approached by the bees on a chilly afternoon- 



140 SPRING. 

(and we have many such in spring,) towards evening, 
even if there is not much wind, they are very apt to 
miss the hive and bottom, and fall to the ground, so 
benumbed with cold, as to be unable to rise again, and 
by the next morning are " no use" whatever. On the 
other hand, if they are near the earth, with a board as 
described, there is no possibility of their alighting under 
the hive, and if they should come short, and get on the 
ground, they can always creep, long after they are too 
cold to fly, and are able, and often do enter the hive 
without the necessity of using their wings. 

Enough may be saved in one spring, from a few 
hives, in this way, to make a good swarm, which taken 
from several is not perceived; yet, as much profit 
from them might be realized, as if they were a swarm 
by themselves. A little contrivance is all that is need- 
ed to save them. To such as must and will have them 
up away from the earth, I would say, do suggest some 
plan to save this portion of your best and most willing 
servants; have an alighting board project in front of 
the hive at least one foot, or a board long enough to 
reach from the bottom of the hive to the ground, that 
they may get on that, and crawl up to the hive. Do 
you want the inducement? Examine minutely the 
earth about your hives, towards sunset, some day in 
April, when the day has been fair, with some wind, and 
chilly towards night, and you will be astonished at the 
numbers that perish. Most of them will be loaded 
with pollen, proving them martyrs to their own indus- 
try and your negligence. When I see a bench three 
feet high and no wider than the bottom of the hive, 



THE APIARY. 141 

perhaps a little less, and no place for the bees to enter 
bnt at the bottom, and as many hives crowded on as 
it will hold, I no longer wonder that " bee-keeping is 
all in luck ;" the wonder is how they keep them at all. 
Yet it proves that, with proper management, it is not 
so very precarious after all. 

The necessary protection from the weather, for 
stocks, is a subject that I have taken some pains to as- 
certain ; the result has been, that the cheapest cover- 
ing is just as good as any ; something to keep the rain 
and rays of the sun from the top, is all sufficient. 
Covers for each hive, like the bottom-board, should be 
separate, and some larger than the top. 

UTILITY OF BEE-HOUSES DOUBTED. 

I have used bee-houses, but they will not pay, and 
are also discarded. They are objectionable on account 
of pieventing a free circulation of air ; also, it is difficult 
to construct them, so that the sun may strike the hives 
both in the morning and afternoon ; which in spring 
is very essential. If they front the south, the middle 
of the day is the only time when the sun can reach 
all the hives at once ; this is just w r hen they need it 
least; and in hot weather, sometimes injurious by 
melting the combs. But when the hives stand far 
enough apart, on my plan, it is very easily arranged 
to have the sun strike the hive in the morning and 
afternoon, and shaded from ten o'clock, till two or three, 
in hot weather. 

Notwithstanding our prodigality in building a splen- 
did bee-house, we think of economy when we come to 



142 SPRING. 

put our hives in, and get them ico close. " Can't 
afford to build a house, and give them so much room, 
no how." 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ROBBERIES. 

Robbing is another source of occasional loss to the 
apiarian. It is frequent in spring, and at any time in 
warm weather when honey is scarce. It is very an- 
noying, and sometimes gets neighbors in contention, 
when perhaps neither is to blame, farther than igno- 
rance of the matter. 

NOT PROPERLY UNDERSTOOD. 

A person keeping many hives must expect to be 
accountable for all losses in his neighborhood, whether 
they are lost by mismanagement or want of manage- 
ment. Many people suppose, if one person has but 
one stock, and another has ten, that the ten will com- 
bine for plundering the one. There are no facts, 
showing any communication between different families 
of the same apiary, that I can discover. It is true, 
when one family finds another weak and defenceless, 
possessing treasure, they have no conscientious scru- 
ples about carrying off the last particle. The hurry 
and bustle attending it seldom escape the notice of 
the other families ; and when one hive has been 
robbed in an apiary, perhaps two- thirds of the other 



ROBBERIES. 143 

families, sometimes all, have participated in the plunder. 
One family, if it be large, is just as likely, and more 
so, to find a weak one among the ten, and commence 
plundering, as the other way. 

IMPROPER REMEDIES. 

Notwithstanding it is common to hear remarks like 
this, " I had a first-rate hive of bees," (when the fact 
was he had not looked particularly at his bees for a 
month, to know whether it was so or not, and if he 
had, very likely would not know,) " and Mr. A.'s bees 
began to rob them. I tried every thing to stop it ; I 
moved them around in several places to prevent their 
finding the hive. It did no good ; the first I knew 
they were all gone — bees, honey, and all ! The bees 
all joined the robbers." Now the fact is, that not one 
good stock of bees in fifty, will ever be robbed, if let 
alone ; that is, if the entrance is properly protected. 
This moving the hive was enongh to ruin any stock ; 
bees were lost at every change, until nothing was left 
but honey to tempt the robbers ; whereas, if left on 
its stand, it might have escaped. 

A great many remedies have been given me gratis, 
which, had one-half been followed, would have ruined 
them. The fact is, with many people, the remedies 
are often the cause of the disease. The most fatal is, 
to move them a few rods ; another, to close the hive 
entirely, (very liable to smother them) ; or, break out 
some comb and set the honey to running. There are 
some charms that affect them but little any way. 
Probably there are but few bee-keepers able to tell at 



144 SPRING, 

once, when oees are being robbed. It requires the closest 
scrutinizing observation to decide. 

DIFFICULTY IN DECIDING. 

There is nothing about the apiary more difficult 
to determine, nothing more likely than to be deceived. 
It is generally supposed, when a number are outside 
fighting, that it is conclusive that they are also rob- 
bing, which is seldom the case. On the contrary, a 
show of resistance indicates a strong colony, and that 
they are disposed to defend their treasures. I no 
longer have any fears for a stock that has courage to 
repel an attack. 

WEAK FAMILIES IN MOST DANGER. 

It is weak families, that show no resistance, where 
we find the most danger. In seasons of scarcity, all 
good stocks maintain or keep sentinels about the 
entrance, whose duty it appears to be to examine 
every bee that attempts to enter. If it is a member 
of the community, it is allowed to pass ; if not, it is 
examined on the spot. It would seem that a pass- 
word was requisite for admittance, for no sooner does 
a stranger-bee endeavor to get in, than it is known. 
If without necessary credentials, there is evidence 
enough against it. Each bee is a qualified jurist, 
judge, and executioner. There is no delay ; no wait- 
ing for witnesses for defence. The more a bee attempts 
to escape, the more likely it will be to receive a sting, 
unless it succeeds. How strange bees are known, 
would be nothing but theory, if I should attempt to 
explain. Let it suffice that they are known. 



ROBBERIES. 145 



THEIR BATTLES. 



I will here describe some of their battles. I have 
in the spring frequently seen the whole front side of 
the hive covered with the combatants, (but for such 
hives I have no fears; they are able to defend them- 
selves.) Several will surround one stranger ; one or 
two will bite its legs, another the wings; another will 
make a feint of stinging, while another is ready to 
take what honey it has, when worried sufficient to 
make it willing. It is sometimes allowed to go after 
yielding all its honey, but at others, is dispatched with 
a sting, which is almost instantly fatal. A bee is 
killed sooner by a sting, than by any other means, 
except crushing. Sometimes a leg will tremble, for a 
minute ; the legs are drawn close to the body ; the 
abdomen contracts to half its usual size, unless filled 
with honey. I have known a pint accidentally to 
enter a neighboring stock, and be killed in five 
minutes. The only places the sting will penetrate a 
bee are the joints of the abdomen, legs, the neck, &c. 
I have occasionally seen one bee drag about the dead 
body of its victim, being unable to withdraw its sting 
from a joint in the leg. During the fight, if it be to 
keep off those in search of plunder, a few bees may 
be seen buzzing around in search of a place unguarded 
to enter the hive. If such is found, it alights and 
enters in a moment. At other times, when about to 
enter, it meets a soldier on duty, and is on the wing 
again in an instant. But another time it may be more 
unfortunate, and be nabbed by a policeman, when it 
7 



14.6 SPRING. 

must either break away, or suffer the penalty of insect 
justice, which is generally of the utmost severity. 

BAD POLICY TO RAISE THE HIVES. 

A great many apiarians raise their hives an inch 
from the board early in spring. They seem to disre- 
gard the chance it gives robbers to enter on every 
side. It is like setting the door of your own house 
open, to tempt the thief, and then complain of de- 
pravity. 

Let it be understood, then, that all good stocks, 
under ordinary circumstances, will take care of them- 
selves. Nature has provided means of defence, with 
instinct to direct its use. Non-resistance may do for 
highly cultivated intellect in man, but not here. 

INDICATIONS OF ROBBERS. 

We will now notice the appearance about a weak 
hive that makes no resistance, and show the result to 
be a total loss of the stock, without timely interfer- 
ence. Each robber, when leaving the hive, instead of 
flying in a direct line to its home, will turn its head 
towards the hive to mark the spot, that it may know 
where to return for another load, in the same manner 
that they do when leaving their hive in the spring. 
The first time the young bees leave home, they mark 
their location, by the same process. A few of these 
begin to hatch from the cells very early ; in all good 
stocks, often before the weather is warm enough for 
any to leave the hive. Consequently, it cannot be too 
early for them at any time in spring. These young 



ROBBERIES. 147 

bees, about the middle of each fair day, or a little 
later, take a turn of flying out very thickly for a short 
time. The inexperienced observer would be very 
likely to suppose such stock very prosperous, from 
the number of inhabitants in motion. This unusual 
bustle is the first indication of foul play, and should 
be regarded with suspicion ; yet it is not conclusive. 



It is the duty of every bee-keeper, who expects to 
succeed, to know which his weak stocks are ; an ex- 
amination some cool morning, can be made by turning 
the hive bottom up, and letting the sun among the 
combs. The number of inhabitants in them is easily 
seen. When weak, close the entrance, till there is 
just room for one bee to pass at once. The first real 
pleasant days, at any time before honey is obtained 
plentifully, a little after noon, look out for them to 
commence robbing. Whenever a weak stock is taken 
with what appears to be a fit of unusual industry, it 
is quite certain they are either robbers or young bees ; 
the difficulty is to decide which. Their motions are 
alike, but there is a little difference in color — the 
young bees are a shade lighter; the abdomen of the 
robbers, when filled with honey, is a little larger. 
It requires close, patient observation, to decide this 
point, and when you have watched close enough to 
detect this difference, you can decide without trouble. 

A TEST. 

But while you are learning this nice distinction 



148 SPRING. 

your bees may be ruined. We will, ^therefore, give 
some other means of protection. 

Bees, when they have been stealing a sack of honey 
from a neighboring hive, will generally run several 
inches from the entrance before flying : kill some of 
these ; if filled with honey, they are robbers ; because 
it is very suspicious, to be filled with honey when 
leaving the hive ; or sprinkle some flour on them as 
they come out, and have some one watch by the others 
to see if they enter. Another way is less trouble, 
but will take longer, before they are checked, if rob- 
bing. Visit them again in the course of half an hour 
or more, after the young bees have had time to get 
back, (if it should happen to be them) ; but if the 
bustle continues or increases, it is time to interfere. 
When the entrance has been contracted as directed, 
close it entirely till near sunset. When it has been left 
without, it should now be done, (giving^room for only 
one bee at a time). This will allow all that belong 
to the hive to get in, and others to get out, and mate- 
rially retard the progress of the robbers. 

ROBBING USUALLY COMMENCES ON A WARM DAY. 

Unless it should be cool, they will continue their 
operations till evening. Yerj often some are unable 
to get home in the dark, and are lost. This, by the 
way, is another good test of robbing. Yisit the hives 
every warm evening. They commence depredations 
on the warmest days ; seldom otherwise. If any are 
at work when honest laborers should be at home, they 
need attention. 



ROBBERIES, 149 

REMEDIES. 

As for remedies, I have tried several. The least 
trouble is to remove the weak hive in the morning to 
the cellar, or some dark, cool place, for a few days, 
until at least two or three warm days have passed, that 
they may abandon the search. The robbers will 
then probably attack the stock on the next stand. 
Contract the entrance of this in accordance with the 
number of bees that are to pass. If strong, no danger 
need be apprehended ; they may fight ,and even kill 
some; perhaps a little chastisement is necessary, to 
a sense of their duty. 

COMMON OPINION. 

There is an opinion prevalent that robbers often go 
to a neighboring stock, kill off the bees first, and then 
take possession of the treasures. To corroborate this 
matter, I have never yet discovered one fact, although 
I have watched very closely. Whenever bees, have 
had all their stores taken, at a period when nothing- 
was to be had in the flowers, it is evident they must 
starve, and last but a day or two before they are gone. 
This would naturally give rise to the supposition that 
they were either killed, or gone with the robbers. 

A CASE IN POINT. 

I have a case in point. Having been from home a 
couple of days, I found, on my return, a swarm of me 
dium strength, that had been carelessly exposed, had 
been plundered of about fifteen pounds of honey, 



150 SPRING. ' 

every particle they had.* About the usual number 
of bees were among the combs, to all appearance, very 
disconsolate. 1 at once removed them to the cellar, 
and fed them for a few days. The other bees gave 
over looking for more plunder, in the meantime. It 
was then returned to the stand, entrance nearly closed, 
as directed, &c. In a short time it made a valuable 
stock ; but had I left it twenty-four hours longer, it 
probably would not have been worth a straw. 

FURTHER DIRECTIONS. 

When a stock has been removed, if the next stand 
contains a weak, instead of a strong one, it is best to 
take that in also ; to be returned to the stand as soon 
as the robbers will allow it. If a second attack is 
made, put them in again, or if practicable, remove 
them a mile or two out of their knowledge of coun- 
try ; they would then lose no time from labor. Where 
but few stocks are kept, and not more than one or two 
stocks are engaged, sprinkle a little flour on them as 
they leave, to ascertain which the robbers are ; then 
reverse the hives, putting the weak one in the place 
of the strong, and the strong one in the place of the 
weak one. The weak stock will generally become the 
strongest, and put a stop to their operations ; but this 
method is often impracticable in a large apiary ; 
because several stocks are usually engaged, very soon 
after one commences, and a dozen may be robbing 
one. Another method is, when you are sure a stock 
is being robbed, take a time when there are as many 

* It occurred the last of July. 



ROBBERIES. 151 

plunderers inside as you can get, and close the hive at 
once, (wire-cloth, or something to admit air, and 
at the same time confine the bees, is necessary ;) carry 
in, as before directed, for two or three days, when 
they may be set out. The strange bees thus enclosed 
will join the weak family, and will be as eager to de- 
fend what is now their treasure, as they were before 
to carry it off. This principle of forgetting home and 
uniting with others, after a lapse of a few days, 
(writers say, twenty-four hours is sufficient for them 
to forget home) can be recommended in this case. It 
succeeds about four times in five, when a proper num- 
ber is enclosed. Weak stocks are strengthened in 
this way very easily ; and the bees being taken from 
a number of hives, are hardly missed. The difficulty 
is, to know when there are enough to be about equal, 
to what belongs to the weak stock ; if too few are en 
closed, they are surely destroyed. 

COMMON CAUSE OF COMMENCING. 

After all, bees being robbed is like being destroyed 
by worms ; a kind of secondary matter ; that is, not 
one strong stock in a hundred will ever be attacked 
and plundered on the first onset. Bees must be first 
tempted, and rendered furious by a weak hive ; a dish 
of refuse honey set near them is sometimes sufficient 
to set them at work, also where they have been fed 
and not had a full supply. After they have once 
commenced, it takes an astonishing quantity to satiate 
their appetite. They seem to be perfectly intoxicated, 
and regardless of danger ; they venture on to certain 



152 SPRING. 

destruction ! I have known a few instances where 
good stocks by this means were reduced, until they in 
turn fell a prey to others. I have for several years 
kept about one hundred stocks away from home, 
where I could not see them much, to prevent robbing. 
Yet I never lost a stock by this cause. I simply 
keep the entrance closed, except a passage for the bees 
at work during spring. It is true I have lost a few 
stocks, when the other bees took the honey, but they 
would have been lost any way. 

SPRING THE WORST TIME. 

As I before remarked in the commencement of this 
chapter, bees will plunder and fight at any time 
through the summer, when honey cannot be collected ; 
but spring is the only time that such desperate and 
persevering efforts are made to obtain it. It is the 
only time the apiarian can be excused for having his 
hives plundered, or letting them stand in a situation 
for it. We then often have families reduced in 
winter and spring, from various causes, and when 
protected through this season, generally make good 
stocks. It is then we wish them to form steady, in- 
dustrious habits, and not live by plunder. Prevention 
is better than cure ; evil propensities should be 
checked in the beginning. The bee, like man, when 
this disposition has been indulged for a time, it is hard 
breaking the habit ; a severe chastisement is the only 
cure ; they too go on the principle of much wanting 
more. 



ROBBERIES. 153 

NO NECESSITY TO HAVE THE BEES PLUNDERED IN THE FALL. 

The apiarian having his bees plundered in the fall, 
is not fit to have charge of them ; their efforts are 
seldom as strong as in spring, (unless there is a general 
scarcity,) the weak hives are usually better supplied 
with bees, and consequently a less number is exposed; 
but yet, when there are some very weak families, 
these should be taken away as soon as the flowers fail, 
or strengthened with bees from another hive. Par- 
ticulars in fall management. 

I have sometimes made my swarms equal, early in 
spring, by the following method, and I have also 
failed. Bees, when wintered together in a room, will 
seldom quarrel when first set out. When one stock 
has an over supply of bees, and another a very few, the 
next day or two after being out, I change the weak 
one to the stand of the strong one, (as mentioned a 
page or two back,) and all bees that have marked the 
location return to that place. The failure is, when too 
many leave the strong stock, making that the weak 
one, when nothing is gained. If it could be done 
when they had been out of the house just long enough 
for the proper number to have marked the location, 
success would be quite certain. But before an ex- 
change of this kind is made, it would be well, if pos- 
sible, to ascertain what is the cause of a stock being 
weak ; if it is from the loss of a queen, (which is 
sometimes the case,) we only make the matter worse 
by the operation. To ascertain whether the queen be 
present, do not depend on the bees carrying :n pollen • 
7* 



154 SPRING. 

as most writers assert they will not, when the queen 
is gone ; because I have known them do it so many 
times without, that I can assure the reader again, it is 
no test whatever. The test given in chapter III. page 
73, is always certain. 



CHAPTER IX. 

FEEDING. 
SHOULD BE A LAST RESORT. 

Feeding bees in spring is sometimes absolutely 
necessary ; but in ordinary seasons and circumstances, 
it is somewhat doubtful if it is the surest road to suc- 
cess, for the apiarian to attempt wintering any stock 
so poorly supplied with honey, that he feels satisfied 
will need feeding in the spring or before. I will re- 
commend in another place (in fall management) what 
I consider a better disposition of such light families. 
But as some stocks are either robbed, or from some 
other cause, consume more honey than we expect, a 
little trouble and care may save a loss. Also bees are 
often fed at this season to promote early swarming, 
and filling boxes with surplus honey. 

CARE NEEDED. 

Considerable care is requisite, and but few know how 
to manage it properly. Honey fed to bees, is almost 
certain to get up quarrels among them. Sometimes 
strong stocks scent the honey given to weak ones, and 
carry it off as fast as supplied. 



FEEDING. 166 

APPARENT CONTRADICTION WHEN FEEDING CAUSING STARVATION. 

It is possible that feeding a stock of bees in spring, 
may cause them to starve ! whereas, if ]et alone, they 
might escape. Notwithstanding this looks like a con- 
tradiction, I think it appears reasonable. Whenever 
the supply of honey is short, probably not more than 
one egg in twenty which the queen deposits, will be 
matured — their means not allowing the young brood to 
be fed. This appears from the fact that several eggs 
may be found in one cell. I transferred over twenty 
stocks in March, 1852 — most of the cells occupied with 
eggs contained a plurality ; two, three, and even four, 
were found in one cell ; it is evident that all could not 
be perfected. Also, the fact of these eggs being at this 
season on the bottom-board. Now suppose you give 
such a stock two or three pounds of honey, and they 
are encouraged to feed a large brood, and your supply 
fails before they are half grown. What are they to 
do ? destroy the brood and lose all they have fed, or 
draw on their old stores for a small quantity to help 
them in this emergency, and trust to chance for them- 
selves? The latter alternative will probably be adopt- 
ed, and then, without a timely intervention of favor- 
able weather, the bees starve. The same effect is some- 
times produced by the changes of the weather; a 
week or two may be very fine and bring out the flow- 
ers in abundance — a sudden change, perhaps frost, 
may destroy all for a few days. This makes it neces- 
sary to use considerable vigilance, as these turns of 
cold weather (when they occur) make it unsafe, till 



156 SPRING. 

white clover appears ; but if the spring is favorable, 
there is but little danger, unless they are robbed. If 
you take the necessary care about worms, you will 
know which are light, and which heavy, unless your 
hives are suspended: even then, it is a duty to know 
their true condition, in this respect. This is another 
advantage of the simple hive ; merely raising one edge 
to destroy worms, tells you something about the 
honey on hand. To be very exact, the hive should 
be weighed when ready for the bees, and the weight 
marked on it ; by weighing at any time after, tells at 
once within a few pounds of what honey there is on 
hand. Some allowance must be made for the age of 
the combs, the quantity of brood, &c. It is wrong to 
begin to feed without being prepared to continue to 
-do so, as the supply must be kept up till honey is 
abundant. 

HOW LONG IT WILL DO TO WAIT BEFORE FEEDING. 

If it is wished to wait as long as possible, and not 
lose the bees, a test will be necessary to decide how 
long it will do to delay feeding. In this case, strict 
attention will be necessary ; they will need examination 
every morning. If a light tap on the hive is answered 
by a brisk, lively buzzing, they are not suffering yet; 
but if no answer is returned to your inquiry, it indi- 
cates a want of strength. Extreme destitution destroys 
all disposition to repel an attack. Sometimes a part 
of the bees will be „ too weak to remain among the 
combs, and will be lying on the bottom, and some few 



FEEDING. 157 

outside. If the weather is cool, they appear to be 
lifeless; yet they can be revived, and now must be fed, 

DIRECTIONS FOR FEEDING. 

Those among the combs may be able to move, 
though feebly. When this is the condition of things, 
invert the hive, gather up all the scattered bees, and 
put them in. Get some honey ; if candied, heat it till 
it dissolves; comb honey is not so good without 
mashing; if no honey is to be had, brown sugar may 
be taken instead ; add a little water, and boil it till 
about the consistence of honey, and skim it ; when 
cool enough, pour a quantity among the combs, di- 
rectly on the bees; cover the bottom of the hive with 
a cloth, securing it firmly, and bring to the fire to 
warm up. In two or three hours they will be revived, 
and may be returned to the stand, providing the 
honey given is all taken up; on no account let any 
honey run out around the bottom. The necessity of 
a daily visit to the hives is apparent from the fact, that 
if left over for one day, in the situation just described, 
it will be too late to revive them. At night, if you 
have a box cover, such as I have recommended, you 
may open the holes in the top of the hive; fill a small 
baking dish with honey or syrup, and set it on the top ; 
put in some shavings to keep the bees from drowning, 
or a float may be used if you choose ; it should be 
made of some very light wood, very thin, and full of 
holes or narrow channels, made with a saw. At the 
commencement of feeding, a few drops should be scat- 



158 SPKING. 

tered on the top of the hive and trailed to the side of 
the dish, to teach them the way ; after feeding a few 
times, they will know the road. When the weather 
is warm enough for them to take it during the night, 
it is best to feed at evening, — from four to eight ounces 
daily, is sufficient. If the family is very small, what 
honey is left in the morning may attract other bees; 
it is then best to take it out, or carry the hive in the 
house to a dark room, sufficiently warm, and feed them 
enough to last several days, and then return them to 
the stand ; keeping a good lookout that they are not 
plundered, and again in a starving condition, until 
flowers produce honey sufficient. 

WHOLE FAMILIES MAY DESERT THE HIVE. 

When you have the means to keep up a supply of 
food, and time requisite to make feeding secure, per- 
haps it would not be advisable to wait till the last 
extremity before feeding, as a small family will some- 
times entirely desert the hive, when destitute, if it oc- 
curs before they have much brood. In these cases, they 
issue precisely as a swarm ; after flying a long time, 
they either return, or unite with some other stock. 
If they return, they need attention immediately. You 
may be certain there is something wrong, let the de- 
sertion take place when it may ; in spring it may be 
destitution, or mouldy combs ; at other times the 
presence of worms, diseased brood, &c. By whatever 
cause it is produced, ascertain it, and apply the rem- 
edy, 



FEEDING. 159 

OBJECTIONS TO GENERAL FEEDING. 

I have known it recommended, and practised by 
some apiarians, to feed bees all at once in the open 
air, in a large trough ; but whoever realizes much 
profit bj this method, will be very fortunate, as every 
stock in the neighborhood will soon scent it out, and 
carry off a good share, and nearly every stock at home 
will be in contention, and great numbers killed ; the 
moment the honey is out, their attention is directed 
to other stocks. Another objection to this general 
feeding is, that some stocks are not necessitated at 
all, while others need it ; but the strongest stock is 
pretty sure to get the most. Now, as I cannot afford 
to divide with my neighbors in this way of feeding, 
and I suppose but few will be found who are willing 
to doit, I will give my method, which, when once 
arranged, is but little trouble. 

ARRANGEMENT FOR FEEDING. 

I got a tinman to make some dishes, two inches deep, 
10 x 12 inches square, and perpendicular sides. A board 
was then got out, fifteen inches wide, and two feet long ; 
two inches from one end, a hole is cut out the longest 
way, just the size of the dish, so that it will set in just 
even with the upper side of the board ; a good fit should 
be made, so that no bees can get in around it; cleats 
should be nailed on the under side of the board, some 
over an inch thick, to prevent crowding the dish out. 
This is to go directly under the hive, but it is not ready 
yet, because if such dish is filled with honey under a 
hive, the bees would drown ; if a float is put on to 
keep them out, it will settle to the bottom when the 



160 



SPRING. 



honey is out, and the bees cannot creep up the sides 
of tin very easily. Another thing, there is nothing to 
prevent the bees from making their combs to the bot- 
tom of this dish, two inches below the bottom of the 
hive ; these things are to be prevented. Get out two 
pieces of half-inch board, ten inches long, one to be 
two inches wide, the other one and a half inches. With 
a coarse or thick saw, cut channels in the side of the 
strips, one-fourth inch deep, three-eighths or half an 
inch apart, crosswise the whole length. You will then 
want a number corresponding to the places sawed, of 

miiiiiiHiiiiiiiiiiiiiii! 



■HHi iliiili 




JMMlliJllliffl^ 



very thin shingles, or strips, say one-eighth of an inch 
thick, and one and three-fourths wide, and nine and a 
half long ; these are to stand edgewise in the dish ; the 
first two are to hold them in the channels at the ends. 
The narrow one needs a block one-half inch square, 
nailed on each end; on the edge, a strip of wire cloth 
is then nailed on, making the whole width just two 
inches. This is now put in the dish, wire cloth at the 
bottom, two inches from one end ; two pins to act as 
braces will keep it there ; the other wide one is placed 
against the other end, and pressed down even with the 
top of the dish. The thin pieces are now slipped into 



FEEDING. 161 

the channels even with the top ; it is now ready to go 
under the hive to be fed. Let the two-inch space pro- 
ject out on the back side of the hive. A narrow board 
should be provided, some more than two inches wide, 
to cover it. Let the hive stand close on this board ; 
the hole in the side is sufficient for the passage of bees 
at work, till very hot weather. Thus you see that the 
hive covers all but the space behind, which the board 
covers, and not a strange bee can get .at the honey, 
without entering the hole at the side, and passing 
through among the bees belonging to the hive, which 
they will not often do ; if the family is numerous, it 
makes it as safe as feeding on the top ; with this ad- 
vantage, there are no bees in the way to interfere while 
pouring in the food. When the bees are to be fed, 
raise the board at the back and pour in the honey ; the 
wire-cloth in the bottom prevents all bees from enter- 
ing this space, at the same time will let the honey pass 
through directly under the bees, which will take it 
up quicker than from any other place that I can put 
it; they will work all night even when the weather is 
quite cool. This board and feeder can be taken out 
when done feeding, and put away till wanted again ; 
if left under through the summer, it affords the worms 
a place rather too convenient to spin their cocoons, 
where the}^ are not easily destroyed. 

FEEDING TO INDUCE EARLY SWARMS. 

If the object in feeding is to induce early swarms, of 
course the best stocks should be chosen for the pur- 
Dose ; but some care is necessarv not to give too much, 



162 SPRING. 

and fill the combs with honey, that ought to be filled 
with brood, and thereby defeat your object ; one pound 
per day is enough, perhaps too much. The quantity 
obtained from flowers is a partial guide ; when plenty, 
feed less ; when scarce, more. Begin as soon as you 
can make them take it up in spring, and continue in 
accordance with the weather, till white clover blos- 
soms, or swarms issue. Another object in feeding 
bees at this period, is to have the store combs all filled 
with inferior honey, so that when clover appears, 
(which yields our best honey,) there is no room except 
in the boxes to store it, which are now put on, and 
rapidly filled. When this last object is alone wished 
for, it is not much matter how much is given at a time, 
providing it is all taken up through the night ; it will 
then take no time in day -light, when they might work 
on flowers ; also, the bees would have no trouble in 
repelling any attempt of others to get at it. 

WHAT MAY BE FED. 

Inferior honey may be used for this purpose; South- 
ern or West India is good, and costs but little. Even 
molasses sugar mixed with it will do ; but they do 
not relish it so well when fed without the honey. I 
have usually taken about equal quantities of each, 
adding a pint of water to ten pounds of this mix- 
ture, and making it as hot as it will bear without 
boiling over, and skimming it. 

IS CANDIED HONEY INJURIOUS 1 

There has an idea been advanced, that candied 
honey is injurious to bees, even said to be fatal. I 



FEEDING. 163 

never could discover any thing further, than it was a 
perfect waste, while in this state. When boiled, and 
a little water added, it appears to be just as good as 
any. Nearly every stock will have more or less of 
it on hand at this season; but as warm weather ap- 
proaches, and the bees increase to warm the hive, it 
seems to get liquified, from this cause alone. The 
bees, when compelled to use honey from these cells, 
thus candied, waste a large portion ; a part is liquid, 
and the rest is grained like sugar, which may be seen 
on the bottom-board, as the bees work it out very often. 
Another object in feeding bees, is to give inferior 
honey, mixed with sugar and flavored to suit the taste, 
to the bees, and let them store it in boxes for market. 
Now, I have no faith in honey undergoing any chem- 
ical change in the stomach of the bee,* and cannot 

* Mr. Gillman's patent for feeding bees, is based on the principle of 
a chemie&l change." It is said that the food he gives to the bees, when 
poured into the cells, becomes honey of the first quality. This ap- 
pears extremely mysterious ; for it is well understood that when a bee 
has filled its sack it will go to the hive, deposit its load, and return 
immediately for more, and will continue its labor throughout the day, 
or until the supply fails ; each load occupying but few minutes. The 
time in going from the feeder to the hive is so short that a change so 
important is not at all probable. The nature of bees seems to be to 
collect honey, not make it ; hence we find, when bees are gathering 
from clover, they store quite a different article than when from buck- 
wheat, — or when we feed West India honey, in quantities sufficient to 
have it stored pure in the boxes, we find that it has lost none of its 
bad taste in passing through the sacks of our northern beea 

It appears most probable that, if Southern honey and cheap sugar 
form the basis of his food, (which it is said to,) that it is flavored with 
something to disguise the disagreeable qualities of the compound. 
Should this be tne secret, it would seem like a waste to feed it to bees — 



164 SPRING. 

recommend this as the honest course. Neither do I 
think it would be very profitable, feeding to this 
extent, under any circumstances. I have a few times 
had some boxes nearly finished and fit for market at 
the end of the honey season ; a little more added 
would make them answer. I have then fed a few 
pounds of good honey, but always found that several 
pounds had to be given the bees to get one in the boxes. 



CHAPTEE X. 

DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 

I SHALL not give a full history of the moth in this 
chapter, as spring is not the time they are most destruc- 
tive. It will be further noticed under the head of 
Enemies of Bees. But as this is a duty belonging to 
spring, a partial history seems necessary. 

As soon as the bees commence their labors, the 
worms are generally ready to begin theirs. 

SOME IN THE BEST STOCKS. 

You will probably find some in your best stocks ; 
but don't be frightened ; this is not the season when 
they often destroy your stocks, yet they injure them 
some. 

a portion would be given to the brood, and possibly the old bees 
might not always refrain from sipping a little of the tempting nectar. 
Why not, when the compound was ready, — instead of wasting it by 
this process, — put it directly in market ? Or, is it necessary to have 
it in the combs to help psychologize the consumer into the belief that 
it is honey of a pure quality ? 



DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 165 

HOW FOUND. 

Ill the morning, when cool, raise the hive, and you 
will find them on the board. You must not suppose 
that these chaps are bred outside the hive, got their 
growth, and are now on their way among the bees, 
but the reverse. They are bred in the hive, and most 
of them are on the way out, and this is the precise 
time to arrest them and bring them to justice for their 
crimes. 

A TOOL FOR THEIR DESTRUCTION. 

I have used a simple tool, made in a few minutes, 
and very convenient in this business. Any one can 
make it. Get a piece of narrow hoop-iron, (steel 
would be better,) three-fourth inch wide, five inches 
long ; taper from one side three inches 'from the end 
to a point ; then grind each edge sharp ; make three 
or four holes through the wide end, to admit small 
nails through it in the handle, which should be about 
two feet long and about half an inch square. Armed 
with this weapon, you can proceed. Eaise the hive 
on one edge, and with the point of your sword you 
may pick a worm out of the closest corner, and easily 
scrape all from under the hive with it. Now, be sure 
and dispatch every one ; not that the ' ' little victim " will 
itself, personally, do much more mischief; but through 
its descendants the mischief is to be apprehended. 
Very likely half of all you find will have finished 
their course of destruction, among the combs, and 
have voluntarily left them for a place to spin their 
cocoons. They are worried by the bees, if they are 



166 SPEING. 

numerous, until satisfied that it is no safe place among 
them to make a shroud and remain helpless two or 
three weeks. Accordingly, when they get their 
growth they leave, get on the board on the bottom, 
become chilled and helpless in the morning, but again 
active by the middle of the day. Now, if they are 
merely thrown on the earth, a place there will be 
selected, if no better is found, for transformation ; and 
a moth perfected ten feet from the hive is just as 
capable of depositing five hundred eggs in your hive, 
as if she had never left it. 

Several generations are matured in the course of 
one summer ; consequently, one destroyed at this 
season, may prevent the existence of thousands before 
the summer is over. 

This is another subject of theoretical reasoning, and 
imposition, (at least in my opinion.) I wish the 
reader to judge for himself; get rid of whims and 
prejudice, and look at the subject candidly and fair ; 
and if there is no corroborative testimony comes up 
to confirm any position that I assume, I shall not 
complain if my assertions fare no better than some 
others. Only defer judgment till you Mow for yourself. 

Bees have ever received my especial regard and at- 
tention ; and my enthusiasm may blind my judgment. 
I may be prejudiced, but will not be wilfully wrong. 
I have found so many theories utterly false, when 
carried out in practice, that I can depend on no one's 
hypothesis, however plausible, without facts in prac- 
tice to support it. No one should be fully credited 
without a test. To return to our subject. 



DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 167 

MISTAKEN CONCLUSIONS. 

It is supposed by many, when these worms are found 
on the board, they get there by accident, having drop- 
ped from the combs above. They seem not to under- 
stand that the worm generally travels on safe princi- 
ples; that is, he attaches a thread to whatever he 
travels over. To be satisfied on this point, I have 
many times carefully detached his foot-hold, when on 
the side of the hive or other place, where he would 
fall a few inches, and always found him with a thread 
fast at the place he left, to enable him to regain his 
position if he chose. Is it not probable, then, that 
whenever he leaves the combs for the bottom- board, he 
can readily ascend again ? No doubt he often does, 
to be driven down again by the bees. Now, what I 
wish to get at by all this preamble, is simply this : 
that all our trouble and worrying to prevent the 
worms from again ascending to the combs — by wire 
hooks, wire pins, screws, nails, turned pins, clam- 
shells, blocks of wood, &c., is perfect nonsense, when 
half or more of them would not harm the bees any 
more if they did, and might as well go there as any 
where else. Besides, these useless " fixins " are very 
often a positive injury to the bees. 

OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED BOTTOM-BOARD. 

Suppose, if you please, that the worm has no thread 
attached above, and your board is far enough from 
the bottom of the hive to prevent his reaching it. Of 
course, he can't get up ; but how are your bees to do 
any better? The worm can reach as high as they can. 



168 SPRING. 

The bee can fly up, you think ; so it will, sometimes ; 
but will try a dozen times first to get up without, and 
when it does, it is a very bad position to start from, 
being a smooth board. In hot weather it does better. 
Did you ever watch by a hive thus raised, in April or 
May, towards night, when it was a little cool, and see 
the industrious little insects arrive with a load as 
heavy as they could possibly carry, all chilly, and 
nearly out of breath, scarcely able to reach home, and 
there witness their vain attempts to get among their 
fellows above them? If you never witnessed this, I 
wish you would take some pains for it, and when you 
find them giving up in despair, when too chilly to fly, 
and perishing after many fruitless attempts for life, I 
think, if you possess sympathy, benevolence, or even 
selfishness, you will be induced to do as I did-^dis- 
card at once wire hooks and all else from under the 
hive in the spring, and give the bees, when they do get 
home with a load, under such circumstances, what 
they richly deserve, and that is, protection. 

ADVANTAGE OF THE HIVE CLOSE TO THE BOARD. 

An inch hole in the side of the hive, a few inches 
from the bottom, as a passage for the bees, is needed, 
as I shall recommend letting the hive close to the 
board ; it is essential on account of robbing ; also, it 
is necessary to confine as much as possible the animal 
heat, in most hives, during the season the bees are 
engaged in rearing young brood ; and warmth is ne- 
cessary to hatch the eggs, and develop the larvae ; we 



DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 169 

all know that when the hive is close, less heat will 
pass off than if raised an inch. 

OBJECTION ANSWERED. 

You object to this, and tell me, "the worms will get 
between the bottom of the hive and the board." Well, 
I think they will, and what then ? "Why I expect if you 
intend to succeed, that you will get them out, and 
crush their heads ; if you cannot give as much attention 
as this, better not keep them, or let some one have the 
care of them that will. I am as willing to find a worm 
under the edge of the hive, and dispatch it, as to have 
it creep into some place out of sight, and change to 
the moth. I once trimmed off the bottom of my hives 
to a thin edge, so they did not have this place for 
their cocoons, but now prefer to have them square. 
All profit is seldom obtained with anything. If you 
plant a field with corn, you do not expect that the 
whole work for the crop is finished. Neither should 
you expect when you set up a stock of bees, that a 
full yield will be realized without something more. 
If you are remunerated by keeping the weeds from 
your corn, be assured it is equally profitable to weed 
out your bees. 

INSUFFICIENCY OF INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARD. 

Now do not be deceived in this matter, and through 
indolence be induced to get those hives with descend- 
ing bottom-boards, to throw out the worms as they 
fall, and hope by that means to get rid of the trouble ; 
(I have already, in another chapter, expressed doubts 
8 



170 SPEING. 

of this). Bat we will now suppose such descending 
bottom-boards capable of throwing every worm that 
touches it " heels over head" to the ground ; what 
have we gained ? His neck is not broken, nor any 
other hone of his body ! As if nothing extraordinary 
had happened, he quietly gathers himself up, and 
looks about for snug quarters ; he cares not a fig for 
the hive now; he gormandized on the combs until 
satisfied, before he left them, and is glad to get awaj 
from the bees any how. A place large enough for a 
cocoon is easily found, and when he again becomes 
desirous of visiting the hives, it is not to satisfy his? 
own wants, but to accommodate his progeny ; he is then 
furnished with wings ample to carry him to any height 
that you choose to put your bees. 

A MOTH CAN GO WHERE BEES CAN. 

A hive that is proof against the moth, is yet to be 
constructed. We frequently hear of them, but when 
the} r come to be tested, somehow these worms get 
where the bees are. When your hives become so full 
of bees, that they cover the board in a cool morning, 
the worms will be seldom found there, except under 
the edge of the hive. 

TRAP TO CATCH WORMS. 

You may now raise the front side half an inch, on 
blocks, for the warm weather, unless the colony be- 
comes reduced ; but you may still catch the worms by 
laying under the bees a narrow shingle, a stick of elder 
split in two lengthwise, where they may spin their 



DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 171 

cocoons. These should be removed every few days, 
and the worms destroyed, and the trap put back. Do 
not neglect it till they change to the moth, and you 
have nothing but to remove the empty cocoon. 

BOX FOR WREN. 

If you would take the trouble to put up a cage or 
two for the wren to nest in, he would be a valuable 
assistant in this department of your labor. He would 
be on the lookout when you were away, and many 
worms, while looking up a hiding-place in some cor- 
ner, would be relieved from all further trouble by 
being deposited in his crop. The cage for him need 
not be more than four inches square; it may be fasten- 
ed near as possible to the bees ; to a post, tree, or side 
of some building a few feet high. I have seen the 
skull of some animal (horse or ox) used, and is very 
convenient for them, the cavity for the brains being 
used for the nest. A person once told me the 
wren would not build in one that he had put up. On 
examination, the stake to support it was found driven 
into the only entrance. I mention this to show how 
little some people understand what they do. It is 
sometimes well enough to know why a thing is to be 
done, as to know it must be done. I could tell you to 
do a great many things, but then you would like to 
know why j then how to do it. Now if this prolixity is 
unnecessary for you, another may need it. You must 
remember I am endeavoring to teach some few to keep 
bees, who are not over supplied with ingenuity. 



172 SUMMER. 

OHAPTEK XL 

PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 

Putting on boxes ma}^ be considered a duty inter- 
mediate between spring and summer management. I 
cannot recommend putting them on as early as the 
last of April, or first of May, in ordinary circumstan- 
ces. It is possible to find a case that it would be best. 
But before the hive is full of bees it is generally use - 
less, very likely a disadvantage, by allowing a portion 
of animal heat to escape that is needed in the hive to 
mature the brood. Also, moisture may accumulate 
until the inside moulds, &c. Some experience and 
judgment is necessary to know about what time 
boxes are needed. That boxes are needed at the 
proper season, I think I shall not need an argument 
to convince any one, in the present day. Bee-keepers 
have generally discarded the barbarous practice of 
killing the bees to obtain the honey. Many of them 
have learned that a good swarm will store sufficient 
honey for winter, besides several dollars worth as 
profit in boxes. 

ADVANTAGE OF THE PATENT VENDER. 

Here is where the patent vender has taken the ad- 
vantage of our ignorance, by pretending that no other 
hive but his ever obtained such quantities, o v so pure in 
quality. 

TIME OF PUTTING ON RULE. 

It is probable a great many readers will need the 
necessary observation to tell precisely when the hive 



PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 173 

is full of honey ; it may be full of bees, and not of 
hone}'. And yet the only rule that I can give to be gen- 
erally applied, is, when the bees begin to be crowded 
out, but a day or two before would be just the right 
time, that is, when they are obtaining honey — (for it 
should be remembered that they do not always get 
honey when beginning to cluster out). This guide 
will do in place of a better one, which close observa- 
tion and experience only can give. By observing a 
glass hive attentively, in those cells that touch the 
glass on the edge of the combs, whenever honey is 
being deposited here abundantly, it is quite evident 
that the flowers are yielding it just then, and other 
stocks are obtaining it also. Now is the time, if any 
cluster out, to put on the boxes. When boxes are 
made as I have recommended, that is, the size con- 
taining 360 solid inches, it is advisable to put on only 
one at first ; when this is full either of bees or honey, 
and yet bees are crowded outside, the other can be 
added. This is before swarming ; too much room 
might retard the swarming a few days, but if 
crowded outside, it indicates want of room, and the 
boxes can make but little difference. It is better to 
have one box well filled than two half full, which 
might be the case if the bees were not numerous. The 
object of putting on boxes before swarming, is to 
employ a portion of the bees, that otherwise would 
remain idly clustering outside two or three weeks, as 
they often do, while preparing the young queens for 
swarming. But when all the bees can be profitably 



174 SUMMER. 

engaged in the body of the hive, more room is unne- 
cessary. 

MAKING HOLES AITER THE HIVE IS FULL. 

Whenever it is required to put boxes on a hive that 
has no holes through the top, it need not prevent 
your getting a few pounds of the purest honey that 
may be had, just as well as to have a portion of the 
bees idle. I always endeavor to ascertain in what 
direction the sheets of comb are made, and then mark 
off the row of holes on the top, at right angles with 
them. 

ADVANTAGE OF PROPER ARRANGEMENT. 

Two inches being nearly the right distance, each 
one will be so made that a bee arriving at the top 
of the hive between any two sheets will be able to 
find a passage into the box, without the task of a long 
search for it ; which I can imagine to be the case when 
only one hole for a passage is made, or when the row 
of holes is parallel with the combs. A hive might 
contain eight or ten sheets of comb, and a bee desirous 
of entering the box might go up between any two, 
many times, before it found the passage. It has been 
urged that every bee soon learns all passages and places 
about the hive, and consequently will know the direct 
road to the box. This may be true, but when we recol- 
lect that all within the hive is perfect darkness — that 
this path must be found by the sense of feeling alone — 
that this sense must be its guide in all its future travels — 



PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 1 75 

that perhaps a thousand or two young workers are 
added every week, and these have to learn by the same 
means — it would seem, if we studied our own interest, 
we would give them all the facility possible for enter- 
ing the boxes. What way so easy for them as to have 
a passage, when they get to the top, between each 
comb ? That bees do not know all roads about the 
hive, can be partiallj' proved b}* opening the door of 
a glass hive. Most of the bees about leaving, instead 
of going to the bottom for their exit, where they have 
departed many times, seem to know nothing of the 
way, but vainly try to get out through the glass, 
whenever light is admitted. 

I am so well convinced of this, that I take some 
pains to accommodate them with a passage between 
each comb ; they will then at least lose no time by 
mistakes between the wrong combs, crowding and 
elbowing their way back through a dense mass of bees 
which impede every step, until again at the top per- 
haps between the same combs, perhaps right, perhaps 
farther off than at first ; when I suppose they try it 
again ; as boxes are filled sometimes under just such 
circumstances. 

To assist them as much as possible, when new hives 
are used for swarms, I wait till the hive is nearly filled 
before making the holes to ascertain the direction of 
the combs. We all know it is uncertain which 
way the combs will be built, when the swarm is put 
in, unless guide-combs are used.* When holes are 

* Perhaps Miner's cross-bar hive would do it. 



176 SUMMER. 

made before the bees are put in, guide-combs as di- 
rected for boxes should be put in ; (of course they 
should cross at right angles the row of holes). 

DIRECTIONS FOR BORING HOLES IN FULL STOCKS. 

To make holes in the top after the combs are made. — 
Mark out the top as directed for making hives and 
boxes. A centre bit or an auger bit with a lip or 
barb is best, as that cuts down a little faster than the 
chip is taken out, leaving it smooth ; when nearly- 
through, a pointed knife can cut the remainder of the 
chip loose, and it can be taken out ; if it is between the 
combs, it is well ; if directly over the centre of one, it 
is a little better ; with the knife take out a piece as 
large as a walnut ; even if honey is in it, no harm will 
be done. The bees will then have a passage through 
from either side of the comb. 

After you have opened one hole, very likely the 
bees will want to see what is going on over head, and 
walk out to reconnoitre. To prevent their interfer- 
ence, use some tobacco-smoke, and send them down 
out of your way, till your hole is finished. Now lay 
over this a small stone or block of wood, and make 
the others in the same way. When all are done, blow 
in some smoke as you uncover them, and put on your 
box. This process is not half so formidable as it ap- 
pears ; I have in this way bored hundreds. You will 
remember my hives are not as high as many others 
keep them, they are in about as convenient a position 
as I can get them. This method saves me the trouble 
of sticking the guide-combs in my hives; also, the ne- 



PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 177 

cessity of covering or stopping the holes. Dr. Be van 
and some others have made a cross-bar hive, instead 
of nailing on a top in the usual way ; a half-inch board 
of the right length is cut into strips, some over an 
inch wide, and half an inch apart, across the top. It 
is plain that in such a hive a bee can pass into the box 
whenever it arrives at the top, without difficulty. I 
will here repeat the objection to allowing too much 
room, to pass into the boxes, that you may see the 
disadvantages of the extremes of too little and too much 
room. In these cross-bar hives, the animal heat rises 
into the box from the main hive, making it as warm as 
below ; the queen goes up with the bees, and finding it 
warm and convenient for breeding, deposits her eggs ; 
and young brood as well as honey is found there. "When 
we think it full, it is then indispensable to return it, if 
taken off, till they hatch, (otherwise they spoil it by 
moulding), Avhich makes the combs dark, tough, &c. 
Another objection to such open tops is, that open 
bottom boxes must be used, which are not half as neat 
for market. 

TO BE TAKEN OFF WHEN FILLED. 

This advantage attends glass boxes: while being 
filled, the progress can be watched till finished, when 
they should be taken off to preserve the purity of the 
combs. Every day the bees are allowed to run over 
them, renders them darker. Consequently, when our 
bees are a long time filling a box, it is not as purely 
white as when filled expeditiously 

8* 



178 SUMMER. 

TIME TAKEN TO FILL A BOX. 

Two weeks is the shortest time I ever had any rilled 
and finished. This, of course, depends on the yield 
of honey, and size of the swarm ; three or four weeks 
are usually taken for the purpose. I have before said 
that the first yield of honey nearly fails in this section, 
usually about the 20th of July ; there are some varia- 
tions, later or earlier, according to the season. In 
other places it may be much later. 

WHEN TO TAKE OFF BOXES PART FULL. 

It can be ascertained, by occasionally raising the 
cover to your gla^s boxes. When no more is being 
added, all boxes that are worth the trouble should be 
taken off; if left longer the comb gets darker, and 
such cells of honey as are not sealed over, (and some- 
times the majority are such,) the bees generally remove 
down into the hive. 

TOBACCO SMOKE PREFERRED TO SLIDES. 

When boxes are to be taken off, if a slide of tin, 
zinc, &c, is used to close the holes, some of the bees 
are apt to be crushed, others will find themselves 
minus a head, leg, or abdomen, and all of them be ir- 
ritable for several clays. A little tobacco smoke is 
preferable, as it keeps all quiet. Just raise the box 
to be taken off sufficient to puff under it some smoke, 
and the bees will leave the vicinity of the holes in an 
instant; the box can then be removed, and another 
put on if necessary, without exciting their anger in 
the least. 



PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 179 

MANNER OF DISPOSING OF THE BEES IN THE BOXES. 

Arouse the bees by striking the box lightly four or 
live times. If all the cells are finished, and honey is 
still obtained, turn the box bottom up, near the hive 
from which it was taken, so that the bees can enter it 
without flying; by this means you can save several 
young bees, that have never left the hive and marked 
the location, and a few others too weak to fly, but will 
follow the others into the hive; (such are lost when 
we are obliged to carry them at a distance.) Boxes 
can be taken off either in the morning or evening; if 
in the morning, it may stand several hours when the 
sun is not too hot, but on no account let it stand in 
the sun in the middle of the day, as the combs will 
melt. The bees will all leave, sometimes in an hour ; 
at others they will not be out in three. They may be 
taken off at evening and stand till morning, in fair 
weather ; if not too cool, they are generally all out ; 
but here is some risk of the moth finding it and de* 
positing her eggs ; perhaps one in fifty may be thus 
found. 

BEES DISPOSED TO CARRY AWAY HONEY. 

When boxes are taken off at the end of the honey 
season, a different method of getting rid of the bees 
must be adopted, or we lose our honey. Unless the 
combs are all finished, we lose some then any way, as 
most of the bees fill themselves before leaving ; they 
carry it home and return for more immediately, and 
take it all, if not prevented. It has been recom- 
mended to take it to some dark room with a small 



180 SUMMER. 

opening to let the bees out ; in the course of the day 
they will sometimes all leave ; but this method I have 
found unsafe, as they sometimes find the way back. 
When a large number of boxes are to be managed, 
a more expeditious mode is, to have a large box with 
close joints, or an empty hogshead, or a few barrels 
with one head out, set in some convenient place ; put 
the boxes in, one above another, but not in a manner 
to stop the holes ; over the top throw a sheet of one 
thickness, a thin one is best, as it will let through 
more light. The bees will leave the boxes, creep to 
the top, and get on the sheet ; take this off and turn 
it over a few times ; in this way all may be got rid of 
without the possibility of carrying off much honey. 
All that know the way will return to the hive, but a 
few young ones are lost. 

NOT DISPOSED TO STING. 

They seldom offer to sting during this part of the 
operation, even when the box is taken off without 
tobacco smoke, and carried away from the hive ; after 
a little time, the bees finding themselves away from 
home, lose all animosity. 

As honey becomes scarce, less brood is reared ; a 
great many cells that they occupied are soon empty : 
also, several cells that contained honey have been 
drained, and used to mature the portion of brood 
just started at the time of the failure. We can now 
understand, or think we do, why our best stocks that 
are very heavy, that but a few days before were crowd- 
ed for room and storing in boxes, are now eager for 



SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 181 

honey to store in the hive ; as there is abundant room 
for several pounds. They will quickly remove to the 
hive the contents of any box left exposed ; or even 
risk their lives by entering a neighboring hive for it; 
after being allowed to make a beginning, under such 
circumstances. 

RULE. 

During a yield of honey, take off boxes as fast as 
they are filled, and put on empty ones. At the end 
of the season take all off. Not one stock in a hundred 
will starve that has worked in boxes, that is, when the 
hive is the proper size, and full before adding the 
boxes, unless robbed or other casualty. 



CHAPTEB XII. 

SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 

I 

TWO THINGS TO BE PREVENTED. 

When the boxes are free from the bees, two things 
are to be prevented, if we wish to save our honey till 
cold weather. One is to keep out the worms, the other 
to prevent souring. The last may be new to many, 
but some few of us have had it caused by dampness 
in warm weather. The combs become covered with 
moisture, a portion of the honey becomes thin like 
water, and instead of the saccharine qualities we have 
the acid. Eemedy : keep perfectly dry and cool, if 
you can, but dry at any rate. 



182 SUMMER. 

APT TO BE DECEIVED ABOUT THE WORMS. 

But the worms, you can surely keep them out, you 
think, since you can seal up the boxes perfectly close, 
preventing the moth or even the smallest ant from en- 
tering ! Yes, you may do this effectually, but the 
worms will often be there somehow, unless in a very 
low temperature, such as a very cool cellar, or ice house, 
and then you have dampness to guard against. I have 
a little experience in this matter that spoils your the- 
ory entirely. I have taken off glass jars, and watched 
them till the bees were all out, and was certain the moth- 
did not come near them, then immediately sealed them 
up ; absolutely preventing access afterwards, (I could 
do this with a jar more effectually than a box which 
is made of several pieces,) I then felt quite sure that 1 
was ahead, and should have no trouble with the worms, 
as had often been the case before. I was sadly mis- 
taken. 

THEIR PROGRESS DESCRIBED. 

In a few days, I could see at first a little white dust, 
like flour, on the side of the combs, and on the bottom 
of the jar. As the worms grew larger, this dust was 
coarser. By looking closely at the combs, a small 
white thread-like line was first perceptible, enlarging 
as the worm progressed. 

When combs are filled with honey, they go only on 
the surface, eating nothing but the sealing of the cells ; 
seldom penetrating to the centre, without an empty 
cell to give the chance. Disgusting as they seem to 
be, they dislike being daubed with honey. Wax, and 
not honey , is their food. 



SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 183 

The reader would like to know how these worms 
came in the jars, when, to all appearance, it was a phy- 
sical impossibility. I would like to tell positively, but 
cannot. But I will guess, if you will allow it. I will 
first premise, that I do not suppose they are generated 
spontaneously ! Their being found there, then, would 
indicate some agent or means not readily perceived. 

A SOLUTION OFFERED. 

The hypothesis that I offer is original and new, and 
therefore open for criticism ; if there is a better way to 
account for the mystery, I would be glad to know it. 

From the first of June till late in the fall, the moth 
may be found around our hives, active at night, but 
still in the day. The only object probably is to find 
a suitable place to deposit its eggs, that the young may 
have food ; if no proper and convenient place is found, 
why, I suppose it will take up with such -as it can find; 
their eggs must be deposited somewhere, it may be in 
the cracks in the hive, in the dust at the bottom, or 
outside, as near the entrance as they dare approach. 
The bees running over them may get one or more of 
these eggs attached to their feet or bodies, and carry 
it among the combs, where it may be left to hatch. It 
is not at all probable that the moth ever passed 
through the hive among the bees, to deposit her eggs 
in the jars before mentioned. Had these jars been left 
on the hive, not a worm would have ever defaced a 
comb; because, when the bees are numerous, each 
worm as soon as it commences its work of destruction 
will be removed, that is, when it works on the surface, 



184 SUMMER. 

as in the boxes of honey — in breeding combs, they get 
in the centre and are more difficult to remove. By 
taking off these jars and removing the bees, it gave all 
the eggs that happened to be there a fair chance. Many 
writers finding the combs undisturbed when left on 
the hive till cold weather, recommend that as the only 
safe way, preferring to have the combs a little darker, 
than the risk of being destroyed by the worms. But 
I object to dark combs, and leaving the boxes will ef- 
fectually prevent empty ones taking their places, which 
are necessary to get all the profits. I will offer a few 
more remarks in favor of my theory, and then give my 
remedy for the worms. I have found in all hives where 
the bees have been removed in warm weather, say be- 
tween the middle of June and September, (and it has 
been a great many,) moth eggs enough among the 
combs to destroy them in a very short time, unless 
kept in a very cool place ; this result has been uniform. 
Any person doubting this, may remove the bees from 
a hive that is full of combs in July or August ; and 
close it to prevent the possibility of a moth entering, 
set it away in a temperature ranging from sixty to 
ninety, and if there are not worms enough to satisfy him 
that this is correct, he will have better success than I 
ever did. Yet, no such result will follow, when the 
bees are left among the combs, unless the swarm be 
very small; then the injury done will be in proportion. 
A strong stock may have as many moth eggs among 
the combs as a weak one, yet one will be scarcely in- 
jured, while the other may be nearly or quite de- 
stroyed. 



SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 185 

Now, if this theory be correct, and the bees do ac- 
tually carry these eggs among the combs, is there not 
a great deal of lost labor in trying to construct a moth- 
proof hive ? The moth, or rather the worms, are ever 
present to devour the combs, whenever the bees have 
left them in this season. 

METHOD OF KILLING- WORMS IN BOXES. 

Now, whether you are satisfied or not with the fore- 
going, we will proceed with the remedy. Perhaps you 
may find one box in ten that will have no worms about 
it, others may contain from one to twenty when they 
have been off a week or more. All the eggs should 
have a chance to hatch, which in cool weather may be 
three weeks. They should be watched, that no worms 
get large enough to injure the combs much, before 
they are destroyed. Get a close barrel or box that 
will exclude the air as much as possible ; in this put 
the boxes, with the holes or bottom open. In one 
corner leave a place for a cup or dish of some kind, to 
hold some sulphur matches while burning. (They are 
made by dipping paper or rags in melted sulphur.) 
When all is ready, ignite the matches, and cover close 
for several hours. A little care is required to have it 
just right: if too little is used, the worms are not killed; 
if too much, it gives the combs a ^reen color. A little 
experience will soon enable you to judge. If the worms 
are not killed on the first trial, another dose must be 
administered. Much less sulphur will adhere to paper 
or rags, if it is very hot, when clipped, than when just 
above the temperature necessary \i melt it; this should 



186 SUMMER. 

be considered, as well as the number of boxes to be 
smoked, size of the vessel used in smoking them, &c. 

Whether this gas from burning sulphur will destroy 
the eggs of the moth before the worm appears, I have 
not tested sufficiently to decide ; but I do know that 
it is an effectual quietus for the larvae ! 

FREEZING DESTROYS THEM. 

Boxes taken off at the end of warm weather, and 
exposed in a freezing situation through the winter, ap- 
pear to have all the worms as well as eggs for them 
destroyed by the cold ; consequently, all boxes so ex- 
posed, may be kept any length of time; the only care 
being necessary, to shut out the moth effectually. But 
don't forget to look out for all combs from which the 
bees have been removed in warm weather. I prefer 
taking off all boxes at the end of the first yield of 
honey, even when I expect to put them on again for 
buckwheat honey. The bees at this season collect a 
great abundance of propolis, which they spread over 
the inside of the boxes as well as hive ; in some in- 
stances it is spread on the glass so thick as to prevent 
the quality of honey being seen. There is no neces- 
sity far boxes on a hive at any season when there is 
no yield of honey to fill them. Sometimes even in a 
yield of buckwheat honey, a stock may contain too 
few bees to fill boxes, but just a few may go into them 
and put on the propolis; this should not be allowed, as 
it makes it look bad when used another year. At this 
season, (August) some old stocks may be full of combs, 
and but few bees, but swarms when they have got the 



SWARMING. 187 

hive fall in time, are very sure to have bees enough. 
to go into the boxes to work. I have known them to 
do so in three weeks after being hived. 

OBJECTION" TO USING BOXES BEFORE THE HIVE IS FULL. 

Some put on boxes at the time of hiving the bees. 
In such cases the box is often filled first, and nearly 
as often will contain brood. I consider it no advan- 
tage, and often a damage to do so ; as I want the hive 
full any way — and then if they have time let them into 
boxes, although it may be buckwheat, instead of clover 
honey that we get. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SWARMING. 

TIME TO EXPECT THEM. 

The season for regular swarms in this section, I have 
known to commence the 15th of May, and in some 
seasons the 1st of July. The end is about the 15th 
of the latter month, with some exceptions. I have 
had one as late as the 21st ; also a few buckwheat 
swarms between the 12th and 25th of August. 

The subject now before us is one of thrilling interest. 
To the apiarian the prospect of an increase of stocks is 
sufficient to create some interest, even when the phe- 
nomenon of swarming would fail to awaken it. But 
to the naturalist this season has charms that the indif- 
ferent beholder can never realize. 



188 SUMMER. 

ALL BEE-KEEPERS SHOULD UNDERSTAND IT AS IT IS. 

As a guide in many cases, it is important that the 
practical apiarian should understand this matter as it 
is, and not as said to be by many authors. I shall be 
under the necessity of differing from nearly all in 
many points. 

MEANS OF UNDERSTANDING IT. 

This is another case of " when doctors disagree, 
who shall decide ?" You, reader, are just the person. 
There is no need of a doctor at all in this matter. I 
will endeavor to give a test for most of my assertions. 
To make this subject as plain as possible in this place, 
I may repeat some things said before. The facts re- 
lated have come under my own observation. I have 
probably taken more pains than most bee-keepers, to 
understand this matter to the bottom from the beginning, 
(I mean the bottom of the cells). But few apiarians 
have made the number of examinations that I have 
to get at the modus operandi of swarming. Perhaps I 
ought not to expect full credit for veracity, when I 
assure the reader that I have inverted more than one 
hundred stocks to get a peep at the royal cells, some 
of them near a dozen times in one summer. I have 
inverted them frequently for the purpose of obtaining 
cells. But generally to see when such cells are being 
made, when they contain eggs, when these eggs are 
sufficiently matured for swarming, or abandoned and 
destroyed, &c. 

By these signs I predict with certainty (almost) 



SWARMING. 189 

when to expect swarms, and when to cease looking 
for them. 

INVERTING A STOCK RATHER FORMIDABLE AT FIRST. 

To a person that has never inverted a hive full of 
bees, even to overflowing, or never has seen it done, 
it appears like a great undertaking, as well as the 
probability of ruining the stock ! But after the first 
trial, the magnitude of the performance is greatly di- 
minished, and will grow less with every repetition of 
the feat, until there is not the least dread attending it. 
Without tobacco smoke I hardly think it practicable, 
but with it, there is not the least difficulty. It would 
be very unsatisfactory to turn over a hive and nothing 
to drive the bees away from the very places on the 
combs that you wish particularly to inspect. The 
smoke is just the thing to do it! As for the bad 
effects of such overturning and smoking, I never dis- 
covered any. 



I have found the process for all regular swarms 
something like this : before they commence, two or 
three things are requisite. The combs must be crowded 
with bees; they must contain a numerous brood ad- 
vancing from the egg to maturity ; the bees must be 
obtaining honey either by being fed or from flowers. 
Being crowded with bees in a scarce time of honey is 
insufficient to bring out the swarm, neither is an 
abundance sufficient, without the bees and the brood. 
The period that all these requisites happen together, 



190 SUMMER. 

and remain long enough, will vary with different 
stocks, and many times do not happen at all through 
the season, with some. 

These causes then appear to produce a few queen -cells, 
generally begun before the hive is filled, (sometimes 
when only half full, but usually remain as rudiments 
till the next year, when the foregoing conditions of 
the stock may require their use). 

STATE OF QUEEN'S CELL WHEN USED. 

They are about half finished, when they receive the 
eggs ; as these eggs hatch into larvae, others are begun, 
and receive eggs at different periods for several days 
later. The number of such cells seem to be governed 
by the prosperity of the bees ; when the family is nu- 
merous, and the yield of honey abundant, they may 
amount to twenty, at other times perhaps not more 
than two or three ; although several such cells may 
remain empty. I have already said that a failure, (or 
even a partial one), in the yield of honey at any time 
from the depositing of royal eggs till the sealing of 
the cells, (which is about ten days), would be likely 
to bring about their destruction. Even after being 
sealed, I have found a few instances where they were 
destroyed. 

STATE WHEN SWARMS ISSUE. 

But when there is nothing precarious about the 
honey, the sealing of these cells is the time to expect 
the first swarm, which will generally issue the first 
fair day after one or more are finished. I never missed 



SWARMING. 191 

a prediction for a swarm 48 hours, when I nave judged 
from these signs, in a prosperous season. When 
there is a partial failure of honey, the swarm some- 
times will wait several days after finishing them. 

CLUSTERING OUTSIDE NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON. 

The clustering out of the bees I find but a poor 
criterion to judge from, further than full hives do 
swarm — many such do not. 

EXAMINATIONS THE RESULT. 

I will detail a few circumstances, that have led to 
these conclusions. Some years ago the honey began 
to fail, when only about one third of my good stocks 
had cast swarms ; and all at once, the issues began to 
" be few and far between." I had previously exam- 
ined, and found they had gone into preparations pretty 
extensively; by having not only constructed cells, 
but occupied them with royal eggs and larvas. Now 
I examined again, and found five out of six had 
destroyed thorn, (at the same time the bees clustered 
out extensively). This put an end to all hopes of 
swarms here. Some few had finished their cells, and 
these, I had some hopes, would send out the swarms ; 
but the dry weather caused some misgivings. After 
waiting three or four days and none coming, I found 
these sealed cells destroyed also, and had no more 
swarms that season. Subsequent observations have ful- 
ly confirmed these things. One season some of the hives 
commenced preparations at two different periods, and 
then abandoned them without swarming at all, through 



192 SUMMER. 

the summer. The first time it was the last of May, 
the next in July. 

REMARKS. 

The failure of honey was the cause, without any 
doubt. And who shall say, these bees were not wise 
in their conduct ? What prudent man would emigrate 
with a family, if the prospect of a famine was plainly 
indicated, when, by remaining at home, there was 
enough, at least for the present ? Who can help but 
admire this wise and beautiful arrangement? The 
combs must contain brood ; the bees must find honey 
during the rearing of the queens. If a swarm were 
to issue the moment of obtaining honey, the conse- 
quence might be fatal, as there would not be a nume- 
rous brood to hatch out, and replenish the old stock 
with bees sufficient to keep out the worms. Were 
they to issue at any time, as soon as the bees had in- 
creased enough in numbers to spare a swarm, without 
regard to the yield of honey, they might starve. 

CONLFICTING THEORIES. 

I find many theories conflicting with these views, 
which appear to call for some remarks. It is generally 
supposed that a young queen must be matured to is- 
sue with the swarms, and the old one with the old 
bees are permanent residents of the old hive. 

BOTH OLD AND YOUNG LEAVE WITH SWARMS. 

It is probable that no rule governs the issue of work- 
ers. Old and young come out promiscuously. That 
old bees come out may be known sometimes, by so 
many leaving, that not a quarter as many will be left, 



SWARM I XG. 193 

as commenced work in the spring. That young bees 
leave, any one may be satisfied on seeing a swarm 
issue ; a. great many too } 7 oung and weak to fly 
will drop down in front of the hive, having come out 
now for the first time, and perhaps - some of them had 
not been out of the cell an hour ; these very young 
bees are known by the color. 



The old queen often gets down in the same way ; 
but I would assign another cause for her inability to 
fly ; that is, I would suggest it to be her burden of 
eggs. 

EVIDENCE OF THE OLD QUEEN'S LEAVING. 

That the old queen does leave with the first swarm 
is indicated by several things : one is, eggs may often 
be found on the board the next morning ; another, 
when the first swarm has left, and before any of these 
royal cells hatch, the bees may be driven out and no 
queen will be found, or you may drive out the bees at 
the end of three weeks, and the brood of workers will 
be about all hatched, the drone brood not quite as 
near. The combs may also contain some eggs, and 
perhaps some very young larvas, that have been de- 
posited by the young queen, which begins to lay usu- 
ally sixteen or eighteen days after the first swarm. 
This shows a cessation of laying eggs for about two 
weeks. First swarms will have eggs in the cells as 
soon as they are made to hold them, which is often 
within 24 hours after being hived ; occasionally a new 
piece of comb will fall down, and, if the cells are deep 



194 SUMMER. 

enough, they are almost certain to contain eggs. I 
could add other proof, but the attentive observer will 
discover it himself. 

MR. WEEKS' THEORY NOT SATISFACTORY. 

Mr. J. M. Weeks, in his work on bees, says, " Two 
causes and two only can be assigned why bees ever 
swarm : the first, the crowded state of the hive ; the 
second, to avoid the battle of the queens." The first 
cause producing first swarms, the other second, third, 
&c. Mr. Colton's patent hive, it is said, can be made 
to swarm " at any time within two days," merely for 
want of room. By removing the six boxes attached 
to it, the bees are compelled to crowd into the main 
body of the hive, and swarm out in consequence. 
Now, if merely crowding the hive with bees is the only 
cause of first swarms, how is it that half or more of 
mine refused to swarm, when a great many, for want 
of room, were crowded outside for weeks, and great 
numbers maturing every day to crowd them still more ? 
To me the reason is plain, that some of the before- 
mentioned requisites were wanting. Mr. Weeks fur- 
ther says, when the first swarm has left, " not a single 
queen, in any stage of minority, is left in the old hive ; 
the bees, destitute of a queen, set about constructing 
several royal cells, take larvae or eggs and put in them, 
and feed with royal jelly, and in a few days have a 
queen." Although I had not had much experience 
at the time of getting his work, I had some doubts, be- 
cause I found that all hives that became full and be- 
gan to run over, did not swam, and some others 



SWARMING. 195 

swarmed before being quite full ; it seemed as if some- 
thing like a preparation beforehand was requisite. I 
knew of no means, for a long time, that would decide 
positively ; when it occurred to me, if I examined the 
old stock immediately after the first swarm had left, I 
should find some preparations if there were any ; a 
thing so simple and easy that I felt somewhat morti- 
fied not to have thought of it before. The first stock 
I looked at revealed the secret. I examined it the 
evening of the day that a swarm had left ; I was grat- 
ified by finding two finished cells on the lower edges 
of the combs ; other cells were in different stages of 
progression, from those containing an egg to the full de- 
veloped larva. Several more hives showed the same 
result. I now got bold enough to examine some pre- 
vious to swarming, as I have already explained. 

MR. MINER NOT CORRECT. 

Mr. T. B. Miner, iu his work, has allowed the prep- 
aration of queen cells previous to swarming, but he 
has put off the time of the swarm issuing eight or nine 
days too long. That is, he has the young queen ma- 
tured so that she commences piping first, which does 
not occur more than one time in fifty. 

Now I think it more than probable that many read- 
ers will have some doubts in regard to my statements 
about this swarming matter. Yet I think I can give 
directions sufficiently particular that they may remove 
them themselves. They should bear in mind that 
they have no right to be positive on any subject with 
out an investigation. 



196 SUMMER. 

PARTICULAR DIRECTIONS FOR TESTING THE MATTER. 

I will now give more minute directions for an examina- 
tion. Full hives require a little more care than those 
containing fewer bees. Don't let the crowded state 
of the hive, even if some are outside, deter you 
from gratifying a laudable curiosity, (such hives are 
most likely to possess these cells.) Let the satisfac- 
tion of ascertaining a few facts for yourselves stimu- 
late you to this exertion, the risk is not much ; what 
I have done you may do. This is better than to rely on 
any man's " ipse dixit. 1 '' I do it without any protection 
whatever for face or hands ; but, if you have too much 
fear of stings, a veil to protect the face may be put on, 
but do without it, if you can find the courage, as you 
will want a good view. The best time is, when most 
of the bees are out at work near the middle of the day ; 
but then the bees from the other hives are sometimes 
cross, and interfere. On that account I prefer morning or 
evening, although there are more bees to be smoked 
out of the way. If you are accustomed to smoking 
tobacco, you will find a pipe just the thing for making 
a smoke here; if not, vide a description of an appara- 
tus in chap. 18th, p. 281. When you are ready to 
proceed, some smoke must be blown under the hive 
before you touch it ; then raise the front side a few 
inches, and blow in some more ; now carefully lift the 
hive from the stand, avoiding any jar, as this would 
arouse their anger ; turn it bottom upwards ; also, be 
careful all the time not to breathe among them. More 
smoke will now make them crowd among the combs out 
of your way while you examine. It is very common for 



SWARMING. 197 

the bees to set up a buzzing, and rush up the sides of tlie 
hive, but a little smoke will drive them back ; get them 
out of the way as much as possible, and look on the 
edges of the combs for the queens' cells, where most 
of them are. If the hive is fully supplied with honey, 
they will be near the bottom, if not, farther up among 
the combs ; in some hives they cannot be seen even 
where they exist. Yet they may be found in four out 
of five, by a thorough search. I have found nine with- 
in two inches of the bottom, some on the extreme ends 
of the comb. I would here give a caution about turn- 
ing over hives with very new combs, before they are 
attached to the sides of the hive, as they are apt to 
bend over. 

EMPTY HIVES TO BE READY. 

We will now suppose that some of your stocks are 
ready to cast their swarms : Ave will also presume that 
your empty hives for the reception of swarms are ready 
before this period ; to prepare a hive after the swarm 
has issued is bad management ; negligence here argues 
negligence elsewhere ; it is one of the premonitions of 
" bad luck." 

BOTTOM-BOARDS FOR HIVING. 

You will want also a number of bottom-boards ex- 
pressly for hiving; get a board a little larger than the 
bottom of the hive, nail strips across the ends on the 
under side to prevent warping ; in the middle cut out 
a space five or six inches square, and cover with wire 
cloth. These are for your large swarms in very hot 
weather, to be used for four or five days. They are 



198 SUMMER. 

much safer than to raise the hive an inch or more for 
ventilation. They are also essential for many other 
occasions. I would not do without them, even if the 
expense was ten times what it is. 

DESCRIPTION OF SWARM ISSUING. 

When the day is fair and not too much wind, first 
swarms generally issue from ten o'clock till three ; if 
you are on the lookout, the first outside indication of 
a swarm, will be an unusual number of bees around 
the entrance, from one to sixty minutes before they 
start. The utmost confusion seems to prevail, bees 
running about in every direction ; the entrance appa- 
rently closed with the mass of bees, (perhaps one ex- 
ception in twenty,) presently a column from the inte- 
rior forces a passage to the o.pen air; they come rush- 
ing out by hundreds, all vibrating their wings as they 
march out ; and when a few inches from the entrance, 
rise in the air ; some run up the side of the hive, others 
to the edge of the bottom-board. If you have seen the 
old queen come rushing s>ut the first one, and the rest 
following her, as we are often told she does, you have 
seen what I never did in a first swarm ! Second and 
third swarms conduct themselves quite differently. I 
have seen the old queen issue a few times, but not till 
half the swarm was out. 

The bees when first rising from the hive, describe 
circles of but few feet, but as they recede, they spread 
over an area of several rods. Their movements are 
much slower than usual, in a few minutes thousands 
may be seen revolving in every possible direction ! A 



SWARMING. 199 

Bwarm maj be seen "and heard, at a distance, where 
fifty hives, ordinarily at work, would not be noticed ! 
When about out of the hive, or soon after, some branch 
of a tree or bush is usually selected on which to clus- 
ter. In less than half a minute after the spot is indi- 
cated, even when the bees are spread over an acre, 
they are gathered in the immediate vicinity, and all 
cluster in a body from five to ten minutes after leaving 
the hive. They should now be hived immediately, as 
they show impatience if left long, especially in the sun ; . 
also, if another stock should send out a swarm while 
they were hanging there, they would be quite sure to 
mix together. 

MANNER OF HIVING CAN BE VARIED. 

It makes but little difference what way they are put 
in the hive, providing they are all made to go in. 
Proceed as is most convenient ; an old table or bench 
is very good to keep them out of the grass if there 
should happen to be any ; if there is not much in the 
way, lay your bottom-board on the ground, make it 
level, set your hive on it, and raise one edge an inch 
or more to give the bees a chance to enter. 

USUAL METHOD. 

Cut off the branch with the bees, if it can be done 
as well as not, and shake it in front of the hive, a por- 
tion will discover it, and will at once commence a vi- 
bration of their wings; this, I suppose, is a call for the 
others. A knowledge of a new home being found 
seems to be communicated in this way, as it is kept up 
until all are in. A great many are apt to stop about 



200 SUMMER. 

the entrance, thereby nearly or«quite closing it, and 
preventing others going in, when they will gather on 
the outside. Yon can expedite the matter with a stick 
or quill, by gently pushing them away ; and another 
portion will enter. When gentle means will not in- 
duce them to go in, in a reasonable time, and they ap- 
pear obstinate, a little water sprinkled on them will 
facilitate operations greatly, when nothing else will. 
(Be careful and not over-do the matter, by using too 
much water, they can be so wet as not to move at all.) 
When they cluster on a branch that you do not 
wish to cut off, place your bottom-board as near as 
convenient ; on it lay two sticks about an inch in di- 
ameter, of the same length ; try the hive, and see that 
all is right; then turn it bottom up, directly under the 
main part of the cluster; if you have an assistant, let 
him jar the branch sufficiently to detach the bees ; 
most of them will fall directly into the hive. If no 
assistant is at hand it is unnecessary to wait, (I have 
done it a hundred tim es without help) ; with the bot- 
tom of the hive strike the under side of the branch 
hard enough to dislodge them, then turn it on the 
board ; the sticks will prevent the bottom crushing 
many bees. 

WHEN OUT OF REACH. 

I have gone up a ladder fifteen feet, got the bees 
in the hive in this way, and backed down without 
difficulty. After putting the hive in its place, some- 
times a part will go back ; in that case, a small branch 
full of leaves should be held directly under and close 



SWARMING. 201 

to them, and as many jarred on it as possible. Hold 
this still, and shake the other to prevent their 
clustering there ; yon will soon have them all col- 
lected, ready to bring down, and put by the hive. A 
handle basket or large tin pan may be taken up the 
ladder instead of the hive, when they can be readily 
emptied before it. But very few will fly out in coming 
down. If you succeed in getting nearly all the bees 
in the first effort, and but few are left, merely shaking 
the branch will be sufficient to prevent their holding 
fast, and will turn their attention to those below, 
where those which have already found a hive will be 
doing their best to call them. When the hive is first 
turned over, most of the bees fall on the board and 
rush out, but as soon as it is realized that a home is 
found, a buzzing commences inside ; this quickly com- 
municates the fact to those outside, which immediate- 
ly turn about, facing the hive and hum in concert, 
while marching in. 

Another plan may be adopted, even if fifteen feet 
high ; when the branch is not too large, and there is 
not too much in the way below it. Have ready two 
or three light poles of suitable length; select such as 
have a branch at the upper end, large enough to hold 
a two-bushel basket. This is raised directly under the 
swarm ; with another pole, the bees are all dislodged, 
and fall into the basket, and are quickly let down. 
Wow, if you have got about all, throw a sheet over 
for a few moments, to prevent their escape. They 
soon become quiet, and may be hived without 



202 SUMMER. 

many going back to the bran zh, as they do, when at- 
tempting to hive them immediately. 

I often have them begin to cluster near the ground, 
very conveniently for hiving. In such a case, I do 
not wait for all to collect, but as soon as such place 
is indicated, I get the board and hive ready. "When a 
quart or so are gathered, shake them in a hive, and 
set it up; the swarm will now go to that, instead of 
the branch, especially if the latter is shaken a little. 
Where many stocks are kept, it is advisable to be as 
expeditious as possible. A swarm will thus hive 
itself much sooner than when it is allowed to cluster. 

WHEN THEY CANNOT BE SHAKEN OFF. 

Swarms will sometimes get in places where it is 
impossible to jar them off, or cut off a branch, such 
as the trunk of a tree, or a large limb near it. In 
which case place the hive near, as first directed ; take 
a large tin dipper, a vessel most convenient for the 
purpose, and dip it full of bees ; with one hand turn 
back the hive ; with the other throw the bees into it ; 
some of them will discover that a home is provided, 
and set up the call for the rest, (by the vibration of 
their wings), and the remainder may be emptied in 
front of the hive as you dip them off. I have known 
a few instances when the first dipper full all ran out, 
and joined the others without making the discovery 
that they were in a hive, but this is seldom the case. 
When you get the queen in, there is no trouble with 
the remainder, even if there are many left ; as soon a? 



SWARMING. 203 

they ascertain that the queen is no longer among 
them, it may be known by their uneasy movements, 
and they will soon leave, and join those in the hive ; 
but if the queen is yet on the tree, and but a dozen 
with her, they will leave the hive and cluster again. 

ALL SHOULD BE MADE TO ENTER. 

In all cases be sure to get them all to enter ; a clus- 
ter outside of it may contain the queen, unconscious of 
a home so near ; and the probable consequence might 
be, she would leave for a miserable one in the woods. 

SHOULD BE TAKEN TO THE STAND IMMEDIATELY. 

When all are in, except a few that will be flying, 
let the hive down close to the board ; take hold of 
this and carry it at once to the stand they are to oc- 
cupy, and raise the front edge half an inch ; let the 
back rest on the board ; this will give them means to 
re-ascend, if they chance to drop, which large swarms 
often do in hot weather. If the bottom is an inch or 
more from the board when the bees fall, there is noth- 
ing to prevent their rushing out on every side — their 
means of getting up again are bad — if the queen comes 
out with the rush, there are some chances for their 
leaving. 

PROTECTION FROM THE SUN NECESSARY. 

Another thing is very important ; swarms should be 
protected from the sun for several days, in hot weather, 
from nine o'clock till three or four ; and then if the 
heat is very oppressive, and the bees cluster outside. 



204 SUMMER. 

sprinkle them with water and drive them in ; and by 
wetting the hive occasionally, it will carry off a large 
portion of the heat, and make it much more comfort- 
able. 

CLUSTERING B€SHES. 

If there are no large trees in the vicinity of your 
apiary, all the better, as there will then be no danger of 
your swarms lighting on them ; but all bee-keepers are 
not so fortunate, myself being one of the number. In 
such a place it is necessary to provide something for 
them to cluster on ; get some bushes six or eight feet 
high (hemlock is preferable) ; cut off the ends of the 
branches, except a few near the top ; secure the whole 
with strings to prevent swaying in ordinary winds ; 
make a hole in the earth deep enough to hold them, 
and large enough to be lifted out easily. The bees 
will be likely to cluster on some of these ; they can 
then be raised out, and the bees hived without diffi- 
culty. A bunch of dry mullein tops tied together on 
the end of a pole, makes a very good place for clus- 
tering ; it so nearly resembles a swarm that the bees 
themselves appear to be sometimes deceived. I have 
frequently known them leave a branch where they 
had begun to cluster, and settle on this when held 
near. 

The motives for immediately removing the swarm 
to the stand are, that they are generally more con- 
venient to watch in case they are disposed to leave ; 
also many bees can be saved. All that leave the hive, 
mark the location the same as in spring ; several hum 



SWARMING. 205 

dreds will probably leave the first day ; a few may 
leave several times ; when removed at night, such will 
return to the stand of the previous day, and general- 
ly are lost ; whereas, if they are carried at once to a 
permanent stand, this loss is avoided. 

Those that are left flying at the time, return to the 
old stock, which those that return from the swarm the 
next day will not always do. The time for moving 
them now is no more than at another. It is unneces- 
sary to object, and say, that " it will take too long to 
wait for the bees to get in ;" this will not do. I shall 
insist on your getting all the bees to enter before leav- 
ing any way. I consider this an essential feature in 
the management. I will not say that my directions 
will always prevent their going to the woods, but this 
I do say, that out of the hundreds that I have hived, 
not one has ever left. It is possible proper manage- 
ment has had no influence in my success, yet some- 
thing like an opinion of this kind has been indulged 
for a long time. 

HOW SWARMS ARE GENERALLY MANAGED THAT LEAVE FOR 
THE WOODS. 

Some of my neighboring bee-keepers lose a quarter 
or half of their swarms by flight, and how do they 
manage? When the word is given out, " Bees swarm- 
ing," a tin-horn, tin-pan, bells, or anything to make a 
"horrible din," is seized upon in the hurry of the 
moment, and as much noise made as possible, to make 
them cluster ; (which they naturally would do without 
the music, at least all mine have. This probably gave 



206 SUMMER, 

rise to the opinion of one old lady, who knew " drum- 
ming on a pan did good, for she had tried it.") Very 
often a hive is to be constructed, or an old one unfit 
to use any way, needs some sticks across, or some- 
thing to take time. When the hive is obtained, it 
must be washed with something nice to make the bees 
like it ; a little honey must be daubed on the inside ; 
sugar and water, molasses and water, salt and water, or 
salt and water rubbed on with hickory leaves, "is the 
best thing in the world;" several other things are just 
as good, and some are better. Even whisky, that bane 
of man, has been offered them as a bribe to stay, and 
sometimes they are persuaded and go to work. Now 
I cannot say positively that these things do harm, yet 

NOTHING BUT BEES NEEDED IN A HIVE. 

I am quite sure they do no good, as nothing but bees 
is needed in a hive. Is it reasonable to suppose they 
are fond of all the "knick-knacks" given them? I 
have never used any, and could not possibly have 
done better. I am careful to have the hive sweet and 
clean, and not too smooth inside ; an old hive that has 
been used before is scalded and scraped. 

But to the manner they get the bees in, after the 
hive is ready. A table is set out, and a cloth spread 
on it ; sticks are put on to raise the hive an inch or 
more ; if they succeed in getting the swarm even on 
the outside of the hive it is left ; if they go in, it is 
well; if thev go off, why hope for "better luck 
next time." The hive is left unsheltered in the hot 
sun, and when there is no wind, the heat is soon in- 



SWARMING. 207 

supportable, or at least very oppressive ; the bees hang 
in loose strings, instead of a compact body, as when 
kept cool ; they are very apt to fall, and when they 
do, will rush out from every side: if the queen 
chances to drop with them, they may " step out." 
Two thirds of all the bees that go to the woods are 
managed in this, or a similar manner, and may it not 
be said, they are fairly driven off? 

SELDOM GO OFF WITHOUT CLUSTERING. 

Perhaps one swarm in three hundred will depart 
for the woods without first clustering. I have had 
three times that number, not one of which has ever 
left me thus. Yet I have evidence not to be disputed 
that some will do it. Three instances have occurred 
near me that satisfied me of the fact. Two were lost, 
the other was followed to a tree, half a mile off; I 
assisted in cutting the tree, and hiving them. The 
cavity where they entered was very small, and con- 
tained old comb, made by a swarm a year or two pre- 
vious, which had probably starved, as there was too 
little room for storing sufficient honey for winter. 
This swarm, when hived and carried home, remained 
perfectly contented. 

DO SWARMS CHOOSE A LOCATION BEFORE SWARMING? 

The inquiry is often made, Do all swarms have a 
place looked out before leaving the parent stock? 
The answer to this must ever be guess-work. I could 
offer some circumstances indicating the affirmative 
very strongly, and as much for the negative ; and 



208 SUMMER. 

will let it pass at that. Yet I think if bees are pro- 
perly cared for, that ninety-nine swarms in a hundred 
will prefer a good clean hive to a rotten tree in the 
woods. 

MEANS OF ARRESTING A SWARM. 

I have had three swarms that were exceptions to 
general rules, giving me some trouble by swarming 
out after being hived ; the third and fourth time they 
left, I threw water among them, causing quite a 
shower; when my pail-full was out, I used earth; 
they went but a short distance, and clustered in the 
usual way. Now were these bees intending to leave, 
and had their designs frustrated by the water and 
earth ? I am not quite as sure as the old lady, who 
knew that "dramming on a tin-pan did good," but I 
am inclined to think it had some effect. I have heard 
of several instances where swarms were apparently 
stopped, by having earth thrown among them, while 
passing over a field where men were at work. "We 
know they dislike being wet, as we see them hasten- 
ing home on the approach of a shower ; or we can at 
any time drive them in the hive by sprinkling them 
with water. Throwing water in the swarm is a kind 
of imitation shower, and earth is something like it. 
"Whether useful or not, these swarms leaving the hive 
was rather suspicious, and I should try it again under 
similar circumstances. 

SOME COMPULSION. 

After getting them in the hive for the fourth time, 



SWARMING. 209 

I resolved not to be baffled or have much more such 
trouble, and perhaps go to the woods at last, thereby 
setting a bad example. I put under the hive the 
wire-cloth bottom-board, opened two or three holes 
on the top, and covered these also with wire-cloth, 
(this was to let the air circulate) ; a quantity of honey 
and water was given them and they were then carried 
to the cellar, and kept prisoners four days, except 
half an hour before sunset ; when too late to leave 
for a journey, I set them out to provide a few neces- 
saries, and then returned them to the cellar. In four 
days, when honey enough is given them, a good swarm 
will half fill an ordinary hive with combs. Some of 
the first eggs deposited will be about hatching into 
larvae, all of which would seem like too much to leave. 
I now set them out, and gave them liberty ; shading 
the hive, &c, as before directed. They all proved 
faithful and industrious, prospering like others. If 
their design was for a distant location, they put a good 
face on the matter in the end. 

HOW FAR WILL THEY GO IN SEARCH OF A HOME? 

How far they will travel in search of a home, is also 
uncertain. I have heard of their going seven miles, 
but could not learn how the fact was proved. I have 
no experience of my own in this matter, but will re- 
late a circumstance that happened near me a few 
years since. A neighbor was ploughing, when a swarm 
passed over him; being near the earth, he "pelted 
them heartily" with the loose dirt he had ploughed up, 
which seemed to J^ring them up, or rather down, as 



210 SUMMER. 

they clustered on a very low bush ; they were hived, 
and gave no further trouble. A man living some 
three miles from this neighbor, on that day hived a 
swarm about eleven o'clock, and left them to warm 
up in the sun as described a page or two back ; about 
three o'clock their stock of patience was probably ex- 
hausted, when they resolved to seek a better shelter. 
They put off in a great hurry, not even waiting to 
thank their owner for the spread on his table, and the 
sweet-scented " yarbs" and good things with which he 
had rubbed their hive. They gave him no notice 
whatever of their intention to " quit," until they were 
moving! With all their goods ready packed, they 
were soon under way, accompanied by their owner 
with music ; but whether they marched with martial 
precision, keeping time, is uncertain. In this case 
the bees took the lead ; the man with his tin-pan mu- 
sic kept the rear, and was soon at a respectful dis- 
tance. They were either not in a mood, just then, to 
be charmed by melodious sounds, or their business 
was too urgent to allow them to stop and listen! 
Their means of locomotion being superior to his, he 
gave up in despair, out of breath, after following 
about a mile. Another person, about the same time 
in the day, saw a swarm moving in the same direction 
of the first ; he also followed them till compelled to 
yield to their greater travelling facilities. A third 
discovered their flight and attempted a race, but like 
the others soon came out behind. The before-men- 
tioned neighbor saw them, and thought of the fresh 
earth that he had ploughed up, which he threw 



SWARMING. 211 

among them till they stopped. How much farther 
they would have gone, if any, would be guessing. 
That it was the same swarm that started three miles 
away, appears almost certain ; the direction was the 
same as seen by all, until they were stopped ; the time 
in the day also exactly corresponded. 

We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. 
There will be some emergencies to provide for, and 
some exceptions to notice. 

TWO OR MORE SWARMS LIABLE TO UNITE. 

If we expect to keep many stocks, the chances are 
that two or more may issue at one time ; and when they 
do, they nearly always cluster together (I once knew 
an instance where only three stocks were kept ; they 
all swarmed and clustered together). It is plain that 
the greater the number of stocks, the more such 
chances are multiplied. 

DISADVANTAGE. 

One first swarm, if of the usual size, will contain 
bees enough for profit, yet two such will work together 
without quarrelling, and will store about one-third 
more than either would alone ; that is, if each single 
swarm would get 50 lbs., the two together would not 
get over 70 lbs., perhaps less. Here, then, is a loss 
of 30 lbs., besides one of the swarms is about lost for 
another year; because such double swarms are not 
generally any better the next spring as a stock, and 
often not as good as a single one. You will therefore 
see the advantage of keeping the first swarms 
separate. 



212 SUMMER. 

CAN OFTEN BE PREVENTED. 

" Prevention is better than cure." We can, if we 
keep a good lookout, often prevent more than one 
issuing at a time. This depends on our knowledge 
of indications, in a great measure. I have said that 
before starting to fly off, they were about the entrance 
in great numbers; there may be one exception in 
twenty, where the first indications will be a column 
of bees rushing from the hive. To take this matter 
a little farther from the surface, we will take a peep 
at the interior; that is, if our hives contain glass 
boxes, such as have been recommended. It is an ad- 
vantage to know which are about to cast their swarms, 
as long beforehand as possible. 

INDICATIONS OF SWARMING INSIDE THE HIVE. 

These glass boxes are usually filled Avith bees ; be- 
fore leaving they may be seen in commotion, long 
before any unusual stir is visible outside, sometimes 
for near an hour. The same may be noticed in a 
glass hive. Now, in good weather, when we have 
reason to expect many swarms, it is our duty to watch 
closely, especially when the weather has been unfa- 
vorable for several days previous. A number of 
stocks may have finished their queen-cells during the 
bad weather, and be ready to come out within the 
first hour of sunshine that occurs in the middle of 
the day. "We must expect some such occurrences, 
and in large apiaries there is apt to be trouble, unless 
you take some precautions. If you have taken no 
care (which but few will), by previous examinations. 



SWARMING. 213 

to know which are ready, as soon as one has started 
or commenced flying, look at all the rest that are in 
condition to swarm ; or, what is much better, look be- 
fore any have started. Even if nothing unusual is seen 
about the entrance, raise the cover to the boxes. If 
the bees in them are all quiet as usual, no swarm 
need be immediately apprehended, and you will 
probably have time to hive one or two first. 

PREVENTING A SWARM ISSUING FOR A TIME. 

But should you discover the bees running to and 
fro in great commotion, although there may be but 
few about the entrance, you should lose no time in 
sprinkling those outside with water from a watering- 
pot, or other means. They will immediately enter 
the hive to avoid the supposed shower. In half an 
hour they will be ready to start again, in which time 
the others may be secured. I have had, in one apiary, 
twelve hives all ready in one day, and did actually 
swarm ; several of which would have started at once, 
had they not been kept back with water, allowing 
only one at a time, thus keeping them separate. 
They had been kept back by the clouds, which broke 
away about noon. 

TO PREVENT SWARMS UNITING WITH THOSE ALREADY HIVED. 

When any of the subsequent swarms were disposed 
to unite with those already hived, a sheet was thrown 
over to keep them out. I had four so covered at once. 
An assistant, in such cases, is very important; one 
can watch symptoms and keep them back, while the 
other hives the swarms. 



214 SUMMER. 

Occasionally, when ready for a swarm and waiting 
for one to start, two may do so at once. Whenever a 
part have got on the wing, I never succeeded in stop- 
ping the issue : consequently I have found it useless 
trying to drive or coax them back in such cases. To 
succeed, the means must be used in season, before any 
of the swarm leaves. 

WHEN TWO HAVE UNITED, THE METHOD OF SEPARATING. 

Two or more swarms will cluster together, and not 
quarrel, if put in one hive : I have already told you 
the disadvantages. Unless business is very urgent, 
your time cannot be better employed than in dividing 
them. First, it is necessary to provide a good stock 
of patience, as it may be a short job, or it may be a 
long one. Gret two empty hives, and divide the bees 
as nearly equal as possible. It is generally the best- 
way to spread a sheet on the ground, and shake the 
bees in the centre, and set the hives each side of the 
mass, their edges raised to allow the bees to enter ; if 
too many are disposed to enter one hive, set it farther 
off. If they cluster in a situation where they cannot 
be got to the earth in a body, they must be dipped off 
as before directed, but, in this case, putting a dipper 
full in each hive alternately, until all are in. They 
should be made to hurry some in going in ; keep the 
entrance clear, and stir them up often ; or sprinkle a 
very little water on them, as they should not be al- 
lowed to stop their humming until all are in. We 
have one chance in two of getting a queen in each. 
The two hives should now be placed twenty feet apart ; 



SWARMING. 215 

if there is a queen in each, the bees in both will re- 
main quiet, and the work is done ; but if not, the bees 
in the one destitute will soon manifest it by running 
about in all directions, and, when the queen cannot be 
found, will leave for the other hive, where there are 
probably two, a few going at a time. Now there are 
two or three methods of separating these queens ; one 
is, to empty the bees out and proceed as before, a kind 
of chance game, that may succeed at the next trial, and 
may have to be repeated. Another way is, that, as 
soon as it is ascertained which is without a queen, be- 
fore many bees leave, spread down a sheet ; set this 
hive on it, and tie the corners over the top to secure 
the bees for the present, turn the hive on its side for 
the present to give them air ; or it may be let down 
on a wire cloth bottom-board and the hole in the side 
stopped, and this would be less likely to smother the 
bees, if it could be secured to the bottom, and have 
the hive lie on its side ; when this division is se- 
cured, get another hive, and jar out those with the 
queens ; let them enter as before, and then set them 
apart, &c, watching the result ; if the queens are not 
yet separate, it will be known by the same appear- 
ances. The process must be continued till separate, 
or the number with the queens may be easily looked 
over, and one of them found ; indeed, a sharp lookout 
should be kept up from the beginning, and the queens 
caught, if possible. 

NO DANGER OF A STING BY THE QUEEN. 

No danger of her sting need be apprehended, as she 



216 SUMMER. 

will not demean herself to use that for a common foe ; 
she must have a royal antagonist. When successful in 
obtaining one, it is sufficient ; put her in a tumbler or 
some safe place; then put your bees in two hives, 
place them as directed, and you will soon learn where 
your queen is needed. After all is done, the two hives 
should not be nearer than twenty feet, at least the first 
day ; perhaps forty would be still better. When two 
swarms are mixed, and then separated, it is evident 
that a portion of each swarm must be in both hives. 
A queen in each must of course be a stranger to at 
least a part of the bees ; these might, if their own 
mother was too near, discover her, and leave the stran- 
ger for an old acquaintance, and, in the act of going, 
call or attract the whole with them, including the 
queen. I have known a few instances of the kind. If 
you are disposed to separate them, but are afraid to 
work among them to this extent in the middle of the 
day, or if there is danger of more issuing, to mix with 
them, and add to your perplexity, of which you al- 
ready have enough, then you can hive them as a single 

SOME PRECAUTIONS IN HIVING TWO SWARMS TOGETHER. 

swarm ; but, instead of a bottom-board, invert an empty 
hive and set the one with the swarm on this, and insert a 
wedge between them, for ventilation. As many bees 
are liable to drop down, in this case the lower hive 
will catch them, and there is less danger of leaving 
Let them remain till near sunset, when anothei 
course may be taken to find a queen, though by that 
time one is sometimes killed ; yet it is well to know 



SWARMIXG. 217 

the fact. Take them to some place out of the sun, as 
a less number will fly during the operation. 

HOW TO FIND QUEEN, WHEN TWO STRANGERS ARE TOGETHER. 

First, look into the lower hive for a dead queen, and, 
if none is found there, look thoroughly, as far as pos- 
sible, for a little compact cluster of bees, the size of a 
hen's egg, that may be rolled about without separat- 
ing. Secure this cluster in a tumbler ; it is quite sure 
one of the queens is a prisoner in the middle ;* should 
two be seen, get both. Then divide the bees, and give 
the one destitute, a queen ; or, if you have two, one to 
each, as the case may be. It would be well first to 
see if the queen was alive, by removing the bees from 
about her. But should you find nothing of the kind, 
spread a sheet on the ground, shake the bees on one 
end of it, and set the hive on the other ; they will im- 
mediately begin a march for the hive. You may now 
see the cluster, and may not; but they will spread out 
in marching, and give a good chance to see her ma- 
jesty, when a tumbler is the most convenient thing to 
set over her. ISTo matter if a few bees are shut up 

* All stranger queens, introduced into a stock or swarm, are secured 
and detained in this manner by the workers, but whether they dispatch 
them, or this is a means adopted to incite them to a deadly conflict, 
writers do not agree, and I shall not attempt a decision, as I never 
saw the bees voluntarily release a queen thus confined. But I have 
seen queens, when no bees interfered, rush together in a fatal rencoun- 
ter, and one of them was soon left a fallen victim of the contest. J Tis 
Baid it never happens that both are killed in these battles, — perhaps 
nut. As I never saw quite all of these royal combats, of course I can- 
not decide. 

10 



218 SUMMER. 

with her, there is no risk, then, in your eagerness to 
get the queen, of taking hold of a worker or two. A 
piece of window-glass can be slipped under, and you 
have her safe, and by this time you will know what is 
to be done next. This operation could not well be 
done in the middle of the day, or in the sun, as too 
many bees would be flying, and greatly interfere. 

Should you fail in finding a queen, and cannot suc- 
ceed in making a division in consequence, or should 
you resolve, from want of time, patience or energy, to 
let them remain together in the beginning, it is un- 
necessary to get a hive any larger than usual for 
two swarms; they will certainly find room by cold 
weather: if more than two, they shouldhe divided by all 
means ; it will be a disadvantage for another year. 
For the first four days, when two large swarms are 
together, it is necessary to keep an inverted hive un- 
der them, but much longer it would not do, as they 
might extend their combs into the lower hive. 

BOXES FOR DOUBLE SWARMS IMMEDIATELY. 

It should then be taken out, and boxes immediately 
put on, which should be changed for empty ones, as 
fast as they are filled. Yet, this extra honey is not 
quite as much advantage as increase of stocks ; when 
that is an object, I will recommend another dispo- 
sition. 

RETURNING A PART TO THfc OLD STOCK. 

Separate one-third or more of the two swarms, being 
sure there is no queen with this part, (by the test 
given of setting them at a distance) and then return 



SWARMING. 219 

them to one of the old stocks ; they will immediately 
enter without contention, and issue again in about nine 
days, or as soon as a young queen is matured to go 
with them. There may be an exception to this, of one 
in twenty. I would have recommended this course in 
all cases of the kind, but there will be a loss of time 
for the bees in the old stock ; because they are apt to 
be rather idle, even when they might labor in the 
boxes ; and here there is a loss of some eight or ten 
days. The collections of a good swarm may be esti- 
mated at least one pound a day, (often two or three.) 
A swarm that just fills the hive, would make at least 
ten pounds box-honey, if it could have been located 
ten days earlier. Still another method may be adopted 
when you have a very small swarm, one that is not 
likely to fill the hive, and has not been hived more 
than two or three days. A third of your two swarms 
may be put in with that ; taking care, as before, not to 
let your only queen go with them. 

METHOD OF UNITING. 

The manner of doing it is very simple ; get them in 
a hive as before directed, and jar them out in front of 
the one you wish them to enter, or invert it, setting 
the other over, and let them run up. 

WHEN CARE IS NECESSARY. 

Except on the day of swarming, care is necessary 
not to introduce a small number with a large swarm ; 
they are liable to be destroyed. The danger is much 
greater than to put together about an equal number, 
or a large number put in with a few. The day that 



220 SUMMER. 

swarms issue, they will generally mix peaceably, but 
in proportion as time intervenes between the issues, so 
will be the liability to quarrel. Yet, I have united two 
families of about equal numbers in the fall and spring, 
and, with a few exceptions, have had no difficulty. 

SWARM-CATCHER. 

There is another method of keeping swarms separate, 
contrived and used by a Mr. Loucks, of Herkimer Co., 
N". Y. He calls it a swarm-catcher ; he has a half 
dozen of them, and says he would not do without for 
one season, for fifty dollars, as he has a large apiary. 
I made one as near as I could from seeing his, without 
taking the exact measure. I got out four light posts 
four and half feet long, one inch square ; then twelve 
pieces of one-quarter inch stuff, four inches wide ; the 
four for the top twelve inches long, for the bottom two 
were fourteen inches long, and two were twenty. These 
were thoroughly nailed on the ends of the posts, mak- 
ing it into an upright frame, the other four pieces were 
nailed around the middle,, which made the frame firmer. 
I made a frame for the top, of four pieces, each an inch 
and a half in width, and half inch thick, halved at the 
ends and nailed together, and fastened by hinges to 
one side of the top, and a catch to hold it shut. The 
whole was now covered with very thin cloth to admit 
the light, but not so open as to let the bees through, 
(Mr. Loucks used cloth made for cheese-strainers.) I 
now had a covered frame four and half feet high, 12 
inches square at the top, at the bottom 14 by 20, with 
a door or lid at the top, to let out the bees. On each 
side of the bottom 1 tacked a piece of common muslin 



SWARMING. 221 

near a yard in length. When a swarm is ready to is- 
sue, the bottom of this frame is set up before the hive, 
one edge of the bottom rests on the bottom-board, the 
other against the side of the hive ; the top sets off from 
the hive at an angle of about 45 degrees, under which 
a brace is set to hold it. The muslin at the bottom is 
to wrap around the hive at the side to prevent the es- 
cape of the bees. The swarm rushes into this without 
any hesitation. 

When done coming out, the muslin at the bottom is 
drawn over it, and the frame is set in an upright posi- 
tion, and allowed to stand a few minutes for the bees 
to get quiet in the top. It is now to be laid on its 
side, the door opened, and the bees hived. In the few 
trials that I have given it, I succeeded without diffi- 
culty. But I would remark, that stocks from which 
swarms are caught in this way, must not be raised at 
the back side, as a part of the swarm would issue there, 
and not get into the net. Mr. Loucks had his hive di- 
rectly on the board ; and he told me he kept them so 
through the season ; the only places of entrance was a 
space cut out of the bottom of the front side, about 
three inches wide by half inch deep, and a hole in the 
side a few inches up. You will thus perceive that 
stocks from which's warms are hived in this way must 
be prepared for it previously. Also, it will be no use 
to such bee-keepers as depend on seeing their swarms 
in the air. It will be beneficial only in large apiaries, 
where several swarms are liable to issue at once ; the 
swarming indications well understood, and the apiari- 
an on the lookout. 



222 SUMMER. 

SWARMS SOMETIMES RETURN. 

Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few min- 
utes return to the old stock. Mr. Miner gives a cause 
for this, very ingenious, and romantic, but unfortu- 
nately there are but few facts to sustain this hypothe- 
sis, (at least I have not discovered them.) There are 
other causes that appear to me more reasonable ; the 
most common is the inability of the old queen to fly, 
on account of her burden of eggs, old age, or some- 
thing else. I have sometimes, after the swarm had re- 
turned, found the queen near the stock, and put her 
back, and the next day she would come out again, and 
fly without difficulty, (perhaps she had discharged some 
of her eggs.) 

Their returning is more frequent in windy weather, 
or when the sun is partially obscured by clouds. About 
three fourths of them will not re-issue until a young 
queen is matured, eight or ten days afterwards ; and a 
few, not at all. But when the queen returns with the 
swarm, they usually come out again the next day, or 
day after, and some not till the third or fourth. I have 
known two instances where they issued again the same 
day. 

REPETITION PREVENTED. 

Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or 
four days in succession, but this I generally remedy, 
as it is often owing to some inability of the queen, and 
she may be frequently found while the swarm is leav- 
ing outside the hive, unable to fly. In such cases it 
is only necessary to have a tumbler ready, and watch 
for her ; and as soon as she appears, secure her, get 



SWARMING. 223 

the empty hive for the swarm, a sheet, and put down 
a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The swarm 
is sure to come back; the first bees that alight on the 
hive will set up the call ; as soon as this is perceived, 
lose no time in setting the old stock on the board, and 
throwing the sheet over it to keep out the bees. Put 
the new one in its place on the stand, and the queen in 
it; in a few minutes the swarm will be in the new 
hive, when it can be removed, and the old one re- 
placed. This I have done many times. But should 
the swarm begin to cluster in a convenient place, when 
you have so caught the queen, by being expeditious 
she may be put with the swarm, before they have 
missed her and may be hived in the usual way. 

LIABILITY TO ENTER WRONG STOCKS. 

In all cases, whether you set a new hive in place 
of the old one or not, whenever a swarm returns, if 
other stocks stand close on each side, they are quite 
sure to receive a portion of the bees — probably a few 
hundreds ; these are certain to be massacred. To pre- 
vent which, it is necessary to throw sheets over them 
until the swarm has gathered on their own hive. This 
is another reason for plenty of room between stocks. 
Should no queen be discovered during their issue, or 
return, she should be sought for in the vicinity of the 
hive, and put back if found, and the swarm will be 
likely to issue several days earlier, than to wait for a 
young queen. 

When the old queen is actually lost, and the bees 
have returned to wait for a young one, it is often 



224 SUMMER. 

ready to leave one or two days short of the time re- 
quired for second swarms. Whether a greater mim 
ber of bees in the old stock creating more animal heatj 
matures the chrysalis in less time than a stock thinned 
by casting a swarm, or some other cause, I cannot say. 
I mention it because I have known it to occur fre- 
quently, but not invariably A swarm flying, unac- 
companied by a queen, is scattered more than usual. 

FIRST ISSUES GENERALLY CHOOSE FAIR WEATHER. 

First swarms are commonly more particular as to 
weather than after swarms. They have several days 
from which to choose, after these royal cells are ready, 
and before the queens are matured ; and they usually 
take a fair one. But here again are exceptions. I 
once had two first swarms issue in a wind that kept 
every branch of tree and bush in agitation to such a 
degree that it was impossible to find any such place 
to cluster. I expected their return to the old hive ; 
but here were more exceptions. After repeating a 
fruitless attempt at the branches, they gave it up, and 
came down amongst the grass on " terra firma." This 
occurred after several days of rainy weather. The 
next day being pleasant, twelve issued ; almost prov- 
ing that the wind the preceding day kept back a part. 
I also knew one to issue in a shower, that beat many 
of them to the ground before they could cluster. In 
this case the shower was sudden, the sun shone almost 
up to the time it began to rain. About this time the 
swarm started when it seemed they were unwilling to 
turn about. 



SWARMING. 225 

AFTER SWARMS. 

After swarms are second and third issues (or all 
after the first) from a stock ; and quite a different af- 
fair from the first, as also are some first swarms, when 
the old queen has been lost, being led out by young 
queens. 

THEIR SIZE. 

Second swarms are usually half as large as the first, 
the third half as large as the second, the fourth still 
less; with some variations. I give general features, 
noticing only the exceptions that occur most frequent- 
ly ; others sometimes happen, but so seldom that men- 
tioning them is deemed unnecessary. 

TIME AFTER THE FIRST. 

Whenever the first swarm in a prosperous season 
ivas not kept back by foul weather, the first of the young 
queens in the old stock is ready to emerge in about 
eight days. We will suppose the first swarm issued 
on Sunday ; a week from the next Tuesday will be 
usually as soon as the second one need be expected. 

PIPING OF THE QUEEN. 

On the Monday evening previous, or on Tuesday 
morning, by putting your ear close to the hive, and 
listening attentively five minutes, }^ou will hear a dis- 
tinct piping noise, like the word peep, peep, uttered 
several times in succession, and then an interval of 
silence ; two or more may be often heard at the same 
time; that of one will be shrill and fine, of another 
hoarse, short and quick. This piping is easily heard 
10* 



226 SUMMER. 

by any one not actually deaf, and not the \t&A danger 
of its being taken for any humming ; in fact, it is not 
to be mistaken for anything else hut piping, even when 
you hear it for the first time. These noLes can prob- 
ably never be heard except when the hive contains a 
plurality of queens. 

MAY ALWAYS. BE HEARD BEFORE AND AFTJ:R SWARM. 

I never failed to hear it, previous to a s econd swarm,, 
or any after the first, whenever I listened ; and when- 
ever I have listened and not heard it at the proper 
time, I never knew a second swarm to issue ! 

TIME OF CONTINUANCE VARIES. 

The time of commencing will be later than this rule 
in some stocks, if the weather is cool, or not many 
bees left ; it may be ten or twelve days. I once found 
it fourteen before I heard it. Also the swarm may 
not issue in two or three days after you hear it. The 
longer the swarm delays, the louder will be the piping ; 
I have heard it distinctly twenty feet, by listening 
attentively when I knew one was thus engaged ; but 
at first it is rather faint. By putting your ear against 
the hive it may be heard even in the middle of the 
day, or at any time before issuing. The length of 
time it may be heard beforehand seems to be govern- 
ed again by the yield of honey ; when abundant it is 
common for them to issue the next day ; but when 
somewhat scarce, they will be much longer — very often 
three or four days. In these cases third swarms sel* 
dom occur. 



SWARMING. 227 

TIME BETWEEN SECOND AND THIRD ISSUES 

Piping for third swarms (when they issue) may 
usually be heard the evening after the second has 
left, though one day commonly intervenes between 
their issues. 

Here my experience is at variance with many 
writers, who give several days between the second 
and third. I do not recollect an instance of more than 
three days between, but many in less, several the 
next, and one the same day of the second ! I had 
an instance of a swarm losing its queen (the old one) 
on its first sally, and returned to wait for the young 
ones ; when they were ready, an uncommon number 
of bees were present ; three swarms issued in three 
days ! On the fourth, another came out and returned ; 
the fifth day it left ; making four regular swarms in 
five days. On the eighth, the fifth swarm left ! Al- 
though I never had five swarms from a stock before, 
yet I expected this, from the fact of hearing the piping 
on the next evening after the fourth one had left. 
The piping had continued in this hive from the eve- 
ning previous to the first swarm till the last one had 
left. 

NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON. 

One stock in fifteen may commence piping, yet 
send out no swarm. The bees will change their 
minds about coming out, and kill their queens, or 
allow the eldest one of them to destroy the others, or 
some other way, as they do not always swarm in such 
circumstances. But when the piping continues over 



228 SUMMER. 

twenty -four hours, I never knew but one failure ! I 
have known a few (two or three) to commence this 
piping, while I supposed the old queen was yet pre- 
sent, and had not left the hive, on account of bad 
weather, but a swarm issued soon after. Also, three 
instances where I supposed the old queen lost, from 
some other cause than leading out a swarm, and the 
stock reared some }^oung ones to supply her place. It 
occurred in or near the swarming season, and one or 
two issues was the consequence. One case was three 
weeks in advance of the season, and the swarm was 
about half the usual size. When a swarm has been out, 
and returned at the last of the swarming season, it is 
much more probable to re-issue, than if it depended 
on an old queen for a leader, that had not been out. 
Such will sometimes be a week or ten days later than 
others. Once I had the first swarm kept back by wet 
weather, and the second came out on the fifth day 
after; several other instances on the seventh and 
eighth ; and one as late as the sixteenth, after the first. 

A RULE FOR THE TIME OF THESE ISSUES. 

This may be put down as a rule, that all after 
swarms must be out by the eighteenth day from the 
first. I never found an exception, unless the follow- 
ing may be considered so : When a swarm left the 
middle of May, and another the first of July, seven 
weeks after, but two cases of this kind have come up, 
and these I consider rather in the light of first swarms, 
as they leave under the same circumstances, leaving 
the combs in the old stock filled with brood, queen* 



SWARMING. 229 

cells finished, &c. A stock may cast swarms in June, 
and a buckwheat swarm in August, on the same prin- 
ciple. 

WHEN IT IS USELESS TO EXPECT MORE SWARMS. 

Therefore, bee-keepers having but few stocks, will 
find it unnecessary to watch their bees when the last 
of the first swarms came out sixteen or eighteen days 
before. Much trouble may be thus saved by under- 
standing this matter. During my early days in bee- 
keeping, I wished for the greatest possible increase of 
stocks. I had some that had cast the first 41 warm, and 
soon after clustered out again. I vainly watched them 
for weeks and months, expecting another swarm. But 
had I understood the modus operandi, as the reader 
may now understand it, I should have been through 
with all my anxiety, as well as watching, in a fort- 
night. As it was, it lasted two months. I found no 
one to give me any light on this subject, or even tell 
me when the swarming season was over, and I came 
very near watching all summer ! 

PLURALITY OF QUEENS DESTROYED. 

When the bees, queens, or all together, decide that 
no more swarms are to issue, the plurality of queens 
is destroyed, and but one is left. It is probable that 
the oldest and strongest queen dispatches the others, 
generally while in the cells. 

I once had some artificial queens reared, as an ex- 
periment from common eggs, on the top of a hive, in 



230 SUMMER. 

a small glass box, where there was room for but one 
comb, which allowed me to see all particulars. 

THE MANNER. 

After the first queen was matured, and had left her 
cell, I caught her within six hours, taking advantage 
of her younger sisters, which were yet sealed up, and 
of course could offer no resistance. She first made an 
opening that would allow her to reach the abdomen 
of her competitor (probably this is the most vulnera- 
ble). As soon as this was sufficiently large to admit 
her body, she thrust it in, inflicting the fatal sting. 
This was then left for another, that soon shared the 
same fate. If quick and spiteful movements are any 
indications of hatred, it was manifested here very 
plainly. The bees enlarged the orifice and dragged 
out the now dead queens. 

Now, if I should say that all queens were dis- 
patched in this way, merely because I witnessed it 
in this case, it would be carrying out the principle I 
am endeavoring to avoid : that is, judging all cases 
from one or two solitary facts. As it is, it is some- 
what confirmatory of what some others have said. I 
will suppose, then, 'until further evidence contradicts 
it, that the first perfect queen leaving her cell, makes 
it her business to destroy all rivals in their cradle, as 
soon as it is decided that no more swarms shall issue. 
By keeping grass, weeds, &c, away from about the 
stock, these dead queens, as they are brought out, 
may be frequently found. Such as are removed during 



SWARMING. 231 

the night may be often found on the floor-board in the 
morning. I have found a dozen by one stock. Should 
the stock send out but one swarm, they may be found 
about the time, or a little before you would listen for 
the piping. But should after swarms come out, they 
will, or may be found the next morning after it is 
decided that no more are to issue. It is very seldom 
that all the queens reared are needed. They make 
it a rule, as far as they have control, to go on safe 
principles, by having a little more than just enough. 
When several such bodies are thrown out, and no 
piping is heard, no further swarming need be ex- 
pected. But should you hear the piping a day or 
two after finding a dead queen, you may yet look for 
the swarm. 

THEORY DOUBTED. 

It is stated that when the bees decide an after 
swarm shall issue, the first queen matured is not al- 
lowed to leave her cell, but. kept a prisoner there, and 
fed until wanted to go forth with the swarm. This 
may be true in some cases (though not satisfactorily 
proved), but I am quite sure it is not in all. 

When she is confined to her cell, how does she as- 
certain the presence of others ? By leaving the cell, 
this knowledge is easily obtained. Huber says she 
does, and is " enraged at the existence of others, and 
endeavors to destroy them while yet in the cell, which 
the workers will not allow ; this is so irritating to her 
majesty that she utters this peculiar sound.'' Also 
second and third swarms may contain several queens. 



232 SUMMER. 

frequently two, three, and four ; even six at one time 
come out. If these had to bite their way out, after 
the workers had decided it was time to start (for it 
must be they decide it when ' the queens are shut up), 
they would hardly be in season. 

AFTER SWARMS DIFFERENT IN APPEARANCE FROM THE FIRST 
WHEN ABOUT TO ISSUE. 

Another thing, when after swarms start, the ap- 
pearance about the entrance is altogether different 
from first ones, unless there is an unusual number of 
bees. I have said that for a little time beforehand, 
that such were in an apparent tumult, &c. But after 
swarms seldom give any such notice. One or more 
of the young queens may sometimes be seen to run 
out, and back, several times in a few minutes, in a 
perfect frenzy; sometimes fly a short distance, and 
return before the swarm will get started (which 
she could not do if confined). The workers seem 
more reluctant about leaving than in first swarms, 
when a mother instead of a sister is leader. Even 
after the swarm is in motion, she may return and 
enter the hive a moment. No doubt she finds it 
necessary to animate or induce as many as possible to 
leave with her. A person watching the issue of a 
second swarm under these circumstances, for the first 
time, and finding the queen leaving first, would very 
likely guess all must be alike. Perhaps the next one 
would be different ; the first thing seen might be the 
swarm leaving, and no queen discovered at all. But 
to return to the imprisonment of the queens. I have 



SWARMING. 233 

one other fact in objection. I once saw a queen run- 
ning about in a glass hive, while they were piping for 
a second swarm. She was near the glass, appeared 
agitated, stopping occasionally to vibrate her wings, 
which was simultaneous with the piping, and seemed 
to make it. The workers appeared to take but little 
notice of her. The next day the swarm left. Here 
was one instance, at least, of her not being confined 
till the time of leaving, making an exception, if not 
a rule. Let this matter be as it may, I admit it makes 
but little difference to the practical apiarian, either 
way ; but to the reader whose interest is the natural 
history of the bee, the truth is important. 

TIME OF DAY, WEATHER, ETC. 

These after swarms are not very particular about 
the weather ; heavy winds, a few clouds, and some- 
times a slight sprinkling of rain, will not always 
deter them. Neither are they very precise about the 
time of day. I have known them in a warm morning 
to issue before seven o'clock, and after five P. M. 
These things should be understood; because, when 
after swarms are expected (of which the piping will 
give warning), it is necessary to watch them in 
weather, and at times when first ones would not 
venture to leave. 

SWARMS NECESSARY TO BE SEEN. 

It is essential that you see them, that you may 
know where they cluster, otherwise it might be diffi- 
cult to find them. They are apt to go farther from 



134 SUMMER, 

the parent stock than others; sometimes fifty rods, 
and then settle in two places, perhaps that distance 
apart, in some high or inconvenient place to get at. 
(Let me not be misunderstood : I do not saj^ they all 
do so, or even the majority ; but I wish to say that 
a greater portion of these swarms do so than of the 
first.) If they cluster in two places, a queen may be 
in each, and they will remain, and when you have 
hived one part you may think you have all. If one 
cluster is without a queen, they will join the other if 
near ; but when distant, will be very likely to return to 
the old stock soon, unless put together. I had a 
swarm light in two places, in exactly opposite di- 
rections from the stock. In one, a good swarm had 
clustered ; in the other, some less than a pint. The 
small part had one or more queens, the other none. 
It was perceived at once by their movements. Now, 
if we provide a hive for a swarm, and- get a few to 
set up the call or buzzing, they will not leave till that 
is stopped. There is generally no difficulty to start it. 
The surest way is to jar a portion or all directly into 
the hive. It takes a few minutes to get composed, 
and miss the queen. In my case I got them in the 
hive, and before they missed the queen, carried them 
to the small cluster, which I got in a dipper and 
emptied in front of the hive ; they entered, and all 
were peaceable. You will therefore see the necessity 
of watching such swarms, to see if there is no sepa« 
ration, if nothing else. 



SWARMING. 235 

RETURNING AFTER SWARMS TO THE OLD STOCK. 

Much has been said about returning all after swarms 
to the old stock ; the advantages of which will depend 
on the time of issuing; whether late or early, the 
yield of honey, etc. It would be unusual to have 
many after swarms without a liberal yield of honey, 
for the time being ; but to tell of its continuance is 
the question to be answered. Second, and even third 
swarms, if early in the season, and the honey con- 
tinues plentiful, may be hived, and these, together 
with the old stock, will prosper. Here the apiarian 
Deeds a little judgment and experience to guide him. 

WHEN THEF SHOULD BE RETURNED. 

It is always best, if possible, to have good strong 
families. When after swarms are late it is safest to 
return them, as the old stock will need them to re- 
plenish the hive, and prepare for winter. Also a less 
number of worms will infest it, when well provided 
with bees ; and the chances of box honey are greater. 

METHOD OF DOING IT. 

But the process of returning such requires some 
little patience and perseverance. I have said there 
may be a dozen young queens in the old stock. Now 
suppose one, two, or more leave with the swarm, and 
you return the whole together, there is nothing to pre- 
vent their leading out the swarm again the next day. 
Therefore it is policj^ to keep the queens back. The 
least trouble is to hive in the usual way, and let them 
stand till the next morning. It will save you the 



236 SUMMER. 

trouble of looking for more than one, if there should 
be more, for all but that are destroyed by that time, 
There is a chance, also, for the old stock to decide that 
no more should issue, and allow all but one to be slain, 
there. When this is the case, and you find the one 
with the swarm, you will have no further trouble by 
their re-issuing. They should be returned as soon as 
the- next morning, otherwise they might not agree, 
even when put in the old home. To return them, and 
find a queen easily, get a wide board a few feet long ; 
let one end rest on the ground, the other near the en- 
trance, that they may enter the hive without flying; 
then shake out the swarm on the lower end of the 
board ; but few will fly, but soon commence running 
up towards the hive ; the first one that discovers the 
entrance will set up the call for the others. If they 
do not discover it, which is the case sometimes, scatter 
some of them near it, and they will soon commence 
marching up, when you should look out for, and se- 
cure the queen, as they spread and give a good chance. 
By applying your ear to the hive, the piping will tell 
you if they are to issue again. It is evident, if you 
follow these directions, that the swarm cannot issue 
many times before their stock of royalty will be ex- 
hausted; and when but one queen remains the piping 
will cease, and no further trouble will be had. To 
prevent tfrese after swarms, some writers recommend 
turning over the hive and cutting out all the royal 
cells but one. This I have found impracticable with a 
great many stocks. Some of the cells are too near the 
top to be seen, consequently this cannot always be 



SWARMING. 237 

depended upon. As for a rule about returning, it is 
somewhat difficult to give one. If I should say, re 
turn all such as issue after the 20th of June, the vari- 
ation in the season might be two or three weeks, even 
in the same latitude ; i. e., the course of flowers that 
had bloomed by that date in one season might, another 
year, require two weeks more to bring out. Also, 
the 20th of June, in latitude of New York City, is as 
late as the 4th of July in many places further north. 
I once had a second swarm* on the 11th of July, that 
wintered well, having nearly filled the hive. Yet, in 
some seasons, the first swarms, of the last of June, 
have failed to get enough. In sections where much 
buckwheat is raised, late swarms do more towards 
filling their hives than where there is none. 

MORE CARE NEEDED BY AFTER SWARMS WHEN HIVED. 

Should it be thought best to hive after swarms, and 
risk the chances, they should receive a little extra 
attention after the first week or two, to destroy the 
worms ; a little timely care may prevent considerable 
injury. They are apt to construct more combs in 
proportion to the number of bees, than others ; con- 
sequently, such combs cannot be properly covered and 
protected. The moth has an opportunity to deposit 
her eggs on them, and, sometimes, entirely destroy 
them. 

TWO MAY BE UNITED. 

Whenever these swarms issue near enough toge- 
ther, it is best to unite them. I have said second 
Bwarms were generally half as large as the first. By 



238 SUMMER. 

this rule, two second swarms would contain as many 
bees as a first one, and four of the third, or one of the 
second issue, and two of the third, &c. If the first 
and second are of the ordinary size, I think it advis- 
able always to return the third. But in large apiaries 
it is common for them to issue without any previous 
warning, just when a first one is leaving, and crowd 
themselves into their company, and seeming to be as 
much at home as though they were equally respect- 
able. • 

Whenever the hives containing our swarms are full 
or very near it, the boxes should be put on without 
delay, unless the season of honey is so nearly gone as 
to make it unnecessary. 

I have found it an advantage to hive a few of these 
very small swarms, on purpose to preserve queens, to 
supply some old stocks that sometimes lose their own 
at the extreme end of the swarming season. The 
cases to be mentioned at the last of the next chapter. 
I try and save one for about every twenty stocks that 
have swarmed. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

LOSS OF QUEENS. 
OF SWARMS THAT LOSE THEIR QUEEN 

Swarms that lose their queen the first few hours 
after being hived, generally return to the parent stock ; 
with the exception that they sometimes unite with 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 239 

some other. If much time has elapsed before the 
loss, they remain, unless standing on the same bench 
with another. On a separate stand they continue 
their labor, but a large swarm diminishes rapidly, and 
seldom fills an ordinary-sized hive. One singular cir- 
cumstance attends a swarm that is constructing combs 
without a queen. I have never seen it noticed by 
any one, and may not always be the case, but every 
instance that has come under my notice, I have so 
fpund it. That is, four-fifths of the combs are drone- 
cells ; why they thus construct them is another sub- 
ject for speculation, from which I will endeavor in 
this instance to refrain. 

A SUGGESTION AND AN ANSWER. 

It has been suggested as a profitable speculation, 
" to hive a large swarm without a queen, and give 
them a piece of brood-comb containing eggs, to rear 
one, and then as soon as it is matured, deprive them 
of it, giving them another piece of comb, and con- 
tinue it throughout the summer, putting on boxes for 
surplus honey. The bees having no young brood to 
consume any hone}^, no time will be lost, or taken to 
nurse them, and as a consequence they will be enabled 
to store large quantities of surplus honey." 

This appears very plausible, and to a person with- 
out experience somewhat conclusive. If success de- 
pended on some animal whose lease of life was a little 
longer, it would answer better to calculate in this way. 
But as a bee seldom sees the anniversary of its birth- 
day, and most of them perish the first few months of 



240 SUMMER. 

their existence, it is bad economy. It will be found 

that the largest amount of our surplus honey is ob- 
tained from our prolific stocks. Therefore it is all-im- 
portant that every swarm and stock has a queen to 
repair this constant loss. 

A DISPUTED QUESTION. 

We now approach another disputed point in natural 
history, relative to the queen leaving at any time ex- 
cept when leading out a swarm. Most writers say that 
the young queen leaves the hive, and meets her para- 
mour, the drone, on the wing. Others deny this posi- 
tively, having watched a whole summer without seeing 
her highness leave. Consequently they have arrived 
at the very plausible and apparently consistent con- 
clusion, that nature never intended it to be so, since 
it must happen at a time when the existence of the 
whole family depends entirely on the life of the queen. 
The stock at such times contains no eggs or larvae, 
from which to rear another, if she should be lost. 
" The chances at such times of being devoured by 
birds, blown away by the winds, and other casualties, 
are too many, and it is not probable the Creator 
would have so arranged it." But facts are stubborn 
things ; they will not yield one jot to favor the most 
"finely-spun hypothesis;" they are most provokingly 
obstinate, many times. When man, without the 
necessary observation, takes a survey through ani- 
mated nature, and finds with scarcely an exception 
that male and female are about equal in number, he 
is ready, and often does conclude that one bee among 



loss of queens: 241 

thousands cannot be the only one capable of repro- 
duction or depositing eggs. Why, the idea is prepos- 
terous! And yet only a little observation will upset 
this very consistent and analogous reasoning. So it 
appears to be with the excursions of the young 
queens. I was compelled, though reluctantly, to 
admit that they leave the hive. That their purpose 
is to meet the drones, I cannot at present contradict. 
Also, that, when the queen is once impregnated, it is 
operative for life, (yet it is another anomaly), as I 
never detected her coming out again for that purpose. 
"What then is the use of the ten thousand drones that 
never fulfil this important duty ? It seems, indeed, 
like a useless waste of labor and honey, for each stock 
to rear some twelve or fifteen hundred, when perhaps 
but one, sometimes not any of the whole number is 
of any use. If the risk is great in the queen's leaving, 
we find it arranged admirably in its not being too fre- 
quent. 

A MULTITUDE OF DRONES NEEDED. 

Instinct teaches the bee to make the matters left to 
them as nearly sure as possible. When they want 
one queen, they raise half a dozen. If one drone or 
only half a dozen were reared, the chances of the queen 
meeting one in the air would be very much reduced. 
But- when a thousand are in the air instead of one, 
the chances are a thousand times multiplied. If a 
stock casts a swarm, there is a young queen to be im- 
pregnated, and be got safely back, or the stock is lost. 
Every time she leaves, there is a chance of her being 
11 



242 SUMMER. 

lost, (one in fifteen). If the number of drones was 
any less than it is, the queen would have to repeat 
her excursions in proportion, before successful. As 
it is, some have to leave several times. The chances 
and consequences are so great, that on the whole no 
doubt but it is better to rear a thousand unnecessarily, 
than to lack one just in time of need. Therefore let 
us endeavor to be content with the present arrange- 
ment, inasmuch as we could not better it, and proba- 
bly had we been consulted, would have so fixed " the 
thing, that it would not go at all." 

But what is the use of the drones in hives that do 
not swarm, and do not intend it, situated in a large 
room or very large hives ? Such circumstances sel- 
dom produce swarms, yet as regular as the return of 
summer, a brood of drones appear. What are they 
for? Suppose the old queen in such hive dies, leav- 
ing eggs or young larvae, and a young queen is reared 
to supply her place. How is she to be impregnated 
without the drones? Perhaps they are taught that 
whenever they can afford it, they should have some 
on hand to be ready for an emergency. I have al- 
ready said when bees are numerous, and honey abun- 
dant, they never fail to provide them. I once put a 
swarm in a glass hive. The queen was a cripple, 
having lost one of her posterior legs ; in two months 
after she was replaced by one young and perfect. 
Here was an instance of drones being needed, when 
no intention of swarming was indicated ; the hive was 
but little more than half full. 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 243 

THE 3UEEN LIABLE TO BE LOST IN HER EXCURSIONS. 

This excursion of the queen, whenever I have wit- 
nessed it, always took place a little after the middle of 
the day, when the drones were out in the greatest num- 
bers. At such times I have seen them leave amid 
rather more commotion than usual among the workers. 
I have watched their return, which varied from three 
minutes to half an hour, and seen them hover around 
their own hive, apparently in doubt whether they be- 
longed in that, or the next ; in a few instances they 
have actually settled on the neighboring hive, and 
would have there perished, but for my assistance in 
putting them right. 

. THE TIME WHEN IT OCCURS. 

Thus we see that queens are lost on these occasions 
from some cause, and part of them by entering the 
wrong hive, perhaps most of them ; if so, it is another 
good reason for not packing stocks too close. The 
hives are very often nearly alike in color and appear- 
ance. The queen coming out for the first time in her 
life, is no doubt confused by this similarity. 

The number of such losses in a season has varied : 
one year the average was one in nine, another it was 
one in thirteen, and another one in twenty. The time 
from the first swarm also varies from twelve to twenty 
days. The inexperienced reader should not forget 
that it is the old stocks which have cast swarms, 
where these accidents happen ; the old queen having 
left with the first swarm. Also all after swarms are 
liable to the same loss. I would suggest that these 



244 SUMMER. 

have abundant room given between the hives; if it is 
necessary to pack close, let it be the first swarms, 
where the old queen has no occasion to leave. Hav- 
ing never seen this matter fully discussed, I wish to 
be somewhat particular, and flatter myself that I shall 
be able to direct the careful apiarian how to save a 
few stocks and swarms annually, that is, if he keeps 
many. A few years ago, I wrote an article for the 
Albany Cultivator. A subscriber of that paper told 
me a year afterwards that he saved two stocks the 
next summer by the information ; they were worth 
at least five dollars each, enough to pay for his paper 
ten years or more. 

When a stock casts but one swarm, the queen hav- 
ing no competitors to interfere with her movements, 
will leave in about fourteen days, if the weather is 
fair ; but should an after swarm leave, the oldest of 
the young queens will probably go with that, of 
course : then, it must be later before the next is 
ready : it may be twenty days, or even more ; those 
with after swarms will vary from one to six. It al- 
ways must occur when no eggs or larvae exist, and no 
means left to repair this loss ; a loss it is, and a seri- 
ous one; the bees are in as much trouble as their 
owner, and a great deal more, they seeming to un- 
derstand the consequences, and he, if he knows 
nothing of the matter, has no trouble. Should he 
now, for the first time, learn the nature of it, he will 
at the same time understand the remedy. 

INDICATIONS OF THE LOSS. 

The next morning after a loss of this kini has oc- 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 245 

curred, and occasionally at evening, the bees may be 
seen running about in the greatest consternation, out- 
side, to and fro on the sides. Some will fly off a short 
distance and return ; one will run to another, and 
then to another, still in hopes, no doubt, of finding 
their lost sovereign ! A neighboring hive close by, 
on the same bench, will probably receive a portion, 
which will seldom resist an accession under such cir- 
cumstances. All this will be going on while other 
hives are quiet. Towards the middle of the day, this 
confusion will be less marked ; but the next morning 
it will be exhibited again, though not so plainly, and 
cease after the third, when they become apparently 
reconciled to their fate. 

They will continue their labors as usual, bringing in 
pollen and honey. Here I am obliged to differ with 
writers who tell us that all labor will now cease. I 
hope the reader will not be deceived by supposing 
that because the bees are bringing in pollen, that they 
must have a queen ; I can assure you it is not always 
the case. 

THE RESULT. 

The number of bees will gradually decrease, and be 
all gone by the early part of winter, leaving a good 
supply of honey, and an extra quantity of bee-bread, 
as before mentioned, because there has been no young 
brood to consume it. This is the case when a large 
family was left at the time of the loss. When but 
few bees are left, it is very different ; the combs are 
unprotected by a covering of bees ; the moth deposits 



246 SUMMER. 

her eggs on them, and the worms soon finish up the 
whole. Yet the bees from the other stocks will gene- 
rally first remove the honey. 

AGE OF BEES INDICATED. 

Hundreds of bee-keepers lose some of their stocks 
in this way, and can assign no reasonable cause. 
"Why,"' say they, "there wasn't twenty bees in the 
hive; it was all fall of honey," or worms, as the case 
may be. !' Only a short time before, it was full of 
bees ; I got three good swarms from it, and it always 
had been first rate, but all at once the bees were 
gone. I don't understand it !" Such bee-keepers can 
not understand how rapidly a family of bees diminish, 
when there is no queen to replenish with young this 
mortality of the old ones. I doubt whether the 
largest and best family possibly could be made to 
exist six months, without a queen for their renewal, 
except, perhaps, through the winter. 

When standing close on one bench, they are gone 
sooner than if on separate stands, as they often join a 
neighboring hive when they can walk to it. 

NECESSITY OF CARE. 

As this tumult cannot be seen but a few days at 
most, it is well — yes, it is necessary — to make it a 
duty to glance at the hives at this period after 
swarming, every morning ; a glance is sufficient to tell 
you of the fact. Eemember to reckon from the date 
of the first issue ; this occurs when the first royal cells 
are sealed over, and is the best criterion as to when 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 247 

the queen will leave. If the first swarm issue and re- 
turn, it can make no difference; reckon from their 
first issuing. 

REMEDY. 

When you discover a loss, first ascertain if there is 
any after swarm to be expected from another stock, 
(by listening for the piping) ; if so, wait till it issues, 
and obtain a queen from that for your stock ; even if 
there is but one, take it, and let the bees return ; they 
would be likely to come out again the next day ; if 
not, it is very often no great loss. 

Should no such swarm be indicated, go to a stock 
that has cast a first swarm within a week ; smoke it 
and turn it over, as before directed, find a royal cell, 
and with a broad knife cut it out, being careful not to 
injure it. This must now be secured in the other hive 
in its natural position, the lower end free from any 
obstacle, that would interfere with the queen leaving 
it. It will make but little difference whether at the 
top or bottom, providing it is secure from falling. 

I generally introduce it through a hole in the top, 
taking care to find one that will allow the cell to pass 
down between two combs. It being largest at the 
upper end, the combs each side will sustain it, and 
leave the lower end free. In a few hours the bees 
will secure it permanently to the combs with wax. 
This operation cannot be performed in a chamber 
hive, as it is impossible to see the arrangement of the 
combs through the holes. To put it in at the bottom 
is some more trouble ; the difficulty is, to fasten it. 



248 SUMMER. 

and prevent it resting on the end. I have done it as 
follows : Get an old thick piece of dry comb some 
three inches square; cut out an inch of the middle. 
At right angles with this, in one edge in the centre, 
make another to intersect it, just the size of the cell, 
and have the lower end reach into the opening. This 
comb will keep it in the right position, and may rest 
on the floor-board. It can now be put in the hive, 
cutting out a piece of comb to make room for it if 
necessary. 

Soon after such cell is introduced, the bees are quiet. 
In a few days it hatches, and they have a queen as 
perfect as if it had been one of their own rearing. 
This queen of course will be necessitated to leave the 
hive, and will be just as liable to be lost, but no more 
so than others, and must be watched the same. It is 
unnecessary to look for a cell in a stock that has cast 
its first swarm more than a week before, as they are 
generally destroyed by that time, (sometimes short of 
it,) unless they intend to send out an after swarm. 

MARK THE DATE OF SWARMS ON THE HIVE. 

Should you have so many stocks that you cannot 
remember the date of each swarm without difficulty, 
it is a good plan to mark the date on one side or cor- 
ner of the hive, as it issues. You can then tell at 
once where to look for a cell when wanted. 

It will sometimes happen that a queen may be lost 
at the extreme end of the swarming season, when no 
other stock contains such cells. I then look around for 
the poorest stock or swarm that I have on hand, one 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 249 

that I can afford to sacrifice, if it possesses a queen, to 
save the one that has sustained this loss ; this is not often 
the case, but is sometimes. I have a few times put 
just bees enough with the queen to keep her in a box, 
and kept them for this purpose, as was mentioned in 
the last chapter. When introduced, the bees are gen- 
erally killed, but the queen is preserved. 

OBTAINING A QUEEN FROM WORKER BROOD. 

There is yet another method to be adopted, and 
that is, to obtain a piece of brood-comb containing 
workers' eggs, or larvae very young. You will gener- 
ally find it without much trouble, in a young swarm 
that is making combs ; the lower ends usually contain 
eggs ; take a piece from one of the middle sheets, two 
or three inches long, (you will probably use smoke 
by this time without telling). Invert the hive that is 
to receive it, put the piece edgewise between the 
combs, if you can spread them apart enough for the 
purpose ; they will hold it there, and then there will 
be ample room to make the cells. They will nearly 
always rear several queens. I have counted nine 
several times, which were all they had room for. But 
yet I have very little confidence in such queens, they 
are almost certain to be lost. 

THEY ARE POOR DEPENDENCE. 

Therefore I would recommend getting a royal cell 
whenever it is practical. There is yet ancther advan- 
tage ; you will have a queen ready to lay eggs two or 
11* 



250 . SUMMEK. 

three weeks earlier, than when they are compelled to 
commence with the egg. I have pnt such piece of 
brood-comb in a small glass box on the top of the 
hive instead of the bottom, because it was less trouble, 
but in this case the eggs were all removed in a short 
time ; whether a queen was reared in the hive or not I 
cannot say; but this I know, I never obtained a pro- 
lific queen, after repeated experiments in this way. 

It would appear that I have been more unfortunate 
with queens reared in this way, than most experiment- 
ers. I have no difficulty to get them formed to all 
appearance perfect, but lose them afterwards. Now 
whether this arose from some lack of physical develop- 
ment, by taking grubs too far advanced to make a 
perfect change, or whether they were reared so late in 
the season, that most of the drones were destroyed, 
and the queen to meet one had to repeat her excur- 
sions till lost, I am yet unable to fully determine. To 
test the first of these questions, I have a few times 
removed all the larvae from the comb ; leaving noth- 
ing but eggs, that all the food given them might be 
" royal pap," from the commencement, and had no 
better success so far. Yet occasionally prolific 
queens have been reared when I could account for 
their origin in no other way but from worker eggs. 
But you will find they, are not to be depended upon 
generally. 

Sometimes, after all our endeavors, a stock or two 
will remain destitute of a queen. These, if they escape 
the worms, will generally store honey enough in this 



LOSS OF QUEENS. 251 

section to winter a good family. This will have to be 
introduced, of course, from another hive, containing a 
queen ; but this belongs to Fall management. 

As respects the time that elapses from the impreg- 
nation of the queen till the commencement of egg lay- 
ing, I cannot tell, but guess it might be about two or 
three days. I have driven out the bees twenty-one 
days after the first swarm, when no second swarm had 
issued — the young queen came out on the fourteenth 
day. I found eggs and some very young larv93. When 
it is remembered that eggs remain three days before 
they hatch, it shows that the first of these must have 
been deposited some four or five days. When writers 
tell us the exact time to an hour (46 or 48) from im- 
pregnation to laying, I am willing to admit the thing 
in this case, but feel just as if I would like to ask how 
they managed to find* out the fact ; by what sign they 
knew when a queen returned from an excursion, whe- 
ther she had been successful or not, in her amours ; 
or, whether another effort would have to be made; 
and then, how they managed to know exactly when 
the first egg was laid. 

Occasionally a queen is lost at other than the swarm- 
ing season, averaging about one in forty. It is most 
frequent in spring ; at least it is generally discovered 
then. The queen may die in the winter, and the bees 
not give us any indications till they come out in spring. 
(Occasionally they may all desert the hive, and join an- 
other.) If we expect to ascertain when a queen is lost 
at this season, we must notice them just before dark 
on the first warm days — because the mornings are apt 



252 SUMMER. 

to be too cool for any bees to be outside — any unusual 
stir, or commotion, similar to what Las been described, 
shows the loss. This is the worst time in the year to 
provide the remedy, unless there should happen to be 
some very poor stock containing a queen, that we 
might lose any way — then it might be advisable to 
sacrifice it to save the other, especially if the last con- 
tained all the requisites of a good stock except a queen. 
Some eight or tea, that I have managed in this way, 
have given me full satisfaction. I have at other times 
let them go till the swarming season, and then pro- 
cured a queen, or introduced a small swarm ; at which 
time they are so reduced as to be worth but little, even 
when not affected by the worms. To obviate this loss 
in this way, it might be an advantage to transfer the 
bees to the next stock, if it was not too full already ; 
or the bees of the next stock to this. Let the age and 
condition of the combs, quantity of stores, &c, decide. 



CHAPTER XV. 

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 

PRINCIPLES SHOULD BE UNDERSTOOD. 

Artificial swarms can be made with safety at the 
proper season. To the bee-keeper who wishes to in- 
crease his stocks, it will be an advantage to understand 
some of the principles. I have had some little experi- 
ence that has led to different conclusions from those of 
some others. I have seen it stated, and found the asser- 
tion repeated by nearly every writer, that u whenever 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 253 

bees were deprived of their queen, if they only pos- 
sessed eggs or young larvse, they would not fail to rear 
another," &c. There are numerous instances of their 
doing this, but it is not to be depended upon, espe- 
cially when left in a hive full of combs, as the following 
experiments tend to prove. 

SOME EXPERIMENTS. 

Several years since I had a few stocks well supplied 
with bees, and every indication of swarming present, 
such as clustering out, &c, but they pertinaciously ad- 
hered to the old stock, through the whole swarming sea- 
son ! Others apparently not as well supplied with bees 
threw off swarms. I had but few stocks, and was very 
anxious to increase the number: but these were provok- 
ingly indifferent to my wishes. Taking the assertions 
of these authors for facts, I reasoned thus : In all pro- 
bability there are eggs enough in each of those stocks. 
Why not drive out a portion of the bees, with the old 
queen, and leave about as many as if a swarm had is- 
sued? Those left will then raise a queen, and con- 
tinue the old stock, and I shall have six instead of the 
three, that have been so obstinate. Accordingly, I 
divided each, examined and found eggs and larvae. Of 
course all must be right. Now, thought I, my stocks 
can be doubled at least annually. If they do not 
swarm, I can drive them. 

THE RESULT UNSATISFACTORY. 

My swarms prospered, the old stocks seemed indus- 
trious, bringing in pollen in abundance, which to me 
at that time, was conclusive that they had a queen, or 



254 SUMMER. 

soon would have. I continued to watch them with 
much interest, but somehow, after a few weeks, there 
did not seem to be quite as many bees ; a few days 
later, I was quite sure there was not. I examined the 
combs, and behold there was not a cell containing a 
young bee of any age, not even an egg in any one of 
these old stocks. My visionary anticipations of future 
success speedily retrograded about this time. 

I had, it is true, my new swarms in condition to 
winter, although not quite full ; but the old ones 
were not, and nothing was gained. I had some 
honey, a great deal of bee-bread and old black comb. 
Had I let them alone, and put on boxes, I should 
have probably obtained twenty-five or thirty pounds 
of pure honey from each, worth five times as much as 
what I did get; besides, the old stocks, even with the 
old comb,- would have been better supplied with 
both honey and bees ; altogether much better, as 
stocks for wintering. Here was a considerable loss, 
merely by not understanding the matter. 

I carefully looked the bees over, and ascertained to 
a certainty that neither of them had a queen. I 
smothered what few there was left in the fall. I then 
knew of no better way. I had been told that the bar- 
barous use of fire and brimstone was part of the 
" luck ;" that a more benevolent system would cause 
the bees " to run out," &c. 

FURTHER EXPERIMENTS. 

Subsequent to these experiments, I thought per- 
haps the jarring of the hives in driving might have 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 255 

some effect en the bees, and prevent their rearing a 
queen. This idea suggested the dividing hive, when 
the division could be made quietly ; but success was 
yet uncertain. I was told to confine the bees in the 
old stock twenty -four hours or more, after driving out 
a swarm ; this I tried, with no better results. Again, 
I drove out the swarm, looked out the queen, and re- 
turned her to the old stock, compelling the new 
swarm to raise one. To be certain they did so, I con- 
structed a small box about four inches square, by two 
in thickness ; the sides glass. In this I put the piece 
of brood-comb containing eggs and larvae, and then 
put it on the hive containing the swarm, having holes 
for communication, a cover to keep it dark, &c. They 
were very sure to rear queens, but from some cause 
were lost after they were matured. 

Now, if others have been more successful in these 
experiments than myself, it indicates that some favor- 
able circumstances attended them that did not me. I 
have not the least doubt but the result will be favor- 
able sometimes. Yet from the foregoing, I became 
satisfied that not one of these methods could be relied 
upon. Instead of constructing a queen's cell, and then 
removing the egg or larva to it from another cell, I 
always found that the cell containing such egg or 
larva was changed from the horizontal to the perpen- 
dicular ; such cells as were in the way below were cut 
off, probably using the material in forming one for 
royalty, which, when finished, contains as much ma- 
terial as fifty or a hundred others. 

My experiments did not end here. I can now make 



256 SUMMER. 

artificial swarms, and succeed nine times in ten with 
the first effort, and the reader can as easily do the 
same. It must be in the swarming season, or as soon 
as the first regular swarm issues. You want some 
finished royal cells that any stock having cast a swarm 
will furnish, (unless in rare instances, where they are 
too far up among the combs to be seen.) 

A SUCCESSFUL METHOD. 

When you are all ready, take a stock that can spare 
a swarm ; if bees are on the outside, raise the hive on 
wedges, and drive them in with a little water, and dis- 
turb them gently with a stick. Now smoke and invert 
it, setting the empty hive over. If the two hives are 
of one size, and have been made by a workman, there 
will be no chance for the bees to escape, except the 
holes in the side ; these you will stop ; (no matter 
about a sheet tied around it.) With a light hammer 
or stick, strike the hive a few times lightly, and then 
let it remain five minutes. This is very essential, be- 
cause most of the bees, if allowed the opportunity, 
will fill themselves with honey after such disturbance. 

All regular swarms go forth so laden. A supply 
is necessary when bad weather follows soon after. It 
is also used in forming wax, a very necessary article 
in a new hive. The amount of honey carried out of 
a stock by a good swarm, together with the weight 
of the bees (which is not much), will vary from five 
to eight pounds. 

This, allowing time for the bees to fill their sacks, 
and supplying the old stock with a royal cell, I be» 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 257 

lieve is entirely original : the importance of which the 
reader can judge. 

ADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD. 

It is very plain that a queen from such finished cell 
must be ready to deposit eggs several days sooner 
than by any other method that we can adopt. It is 
also clear that if we have a dozen queens depositing 
eggs by the 10th of June, that our bees are increasing 
faster, on the whole, than if but half that number are 
engaged in it for a month later. There is yet another 
advantage. The sooner a young queen can take the 
place of the old one in maternal duties, the less time 
will be lost in breeding, the more bees there will be 
to defend the combs from the moth, and the surest 
guaranty for surplus honey. 

When the bees have filled their sacks, proceed to 
drive them into the upper hive by striking the lower 
one rapidly from five to ten minutes. A loud hum- 
ming will mark their first movement. When you 
think half or two-thirds are out, raise the hive and 
inspect progress. They are not at all disposed to 
sting in this stage of proceeding, even when they 
escape outside. If full of honey, they are seldom pro- 
voked to resentment. The only care will be not to 
crush too many that get between the edges of the 
hives. The loud buzzing is no sign of anger. If your 
swarm is not large enough, continue to drive till it 
is. When done, the new hive should be set on the 
stand of the old one. A few minutes will decide 
whether you have the queen with the swarm, as they 



258 SUMMER. 

remain quiet : otherwise uneasy, and run about, when 
it will be necessary to drive again. 

If both hives are one color, set the old one two feet 
in front ; but if of different colors, a little more. I 
prefer this position to setting the old stock on one 
side, even when there is room ; yet it can make but 
little difference. Should you set it on one side, let the 
distance be less. When the old stock is taken much 
farther than this rule, all the bees that have marked 
the location (and all the old ones will have done so) 
will go back to the old stand, and none but young 
bees that have never left home will remain. The same 
will be the case with the new swarm if moved off. It 
will not do to depend on the old queen keeping them, 
as she does when they swarm out naturally.' This has 
been my experience. Try it, reader, and be satisfied, 
by putting either of the hives fifteen or twenty feet 
distant. 

Before you turn over the old stock, look among the 
combs as far as possible for queens' cells ; if any con- 
tain eggs or larvae, you may safely risk their rearing 
a queen ; but otherwise wait till next morning, or at 
least twenty-four hours, then go to a stock that has 
cast a swarm, and obtain a finished royal cell, as be- 
fore directed, and introduce it. You will have a 
queen here as soon as if it had been left in the origi- 
nal hive, and no risk of an after swarm, because there 
is but one. But when there are young queens in the 
cells at the time of driving, after swarms may issue. 
Should a queen-cell be introduced immediately, it is 
more liable to be destroyed than after waiting twenty- 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 259 

four hours ; and then is not always safe. After it has 
had time to hatch, (which is about eight days after 
being sealed), cut it out, and examine it: if the lower 
end is open, it indicates that a perfect queen has left 
it, and all is safe ; but if it is mutilated or open at the 
side, it is probable that the queen was destroyed be- 
fore maturity, in which case, another cell will have to 
be given them. 

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS ONLY SAFE NEAR THE SWARMING SEASON. 

By what I have said about artificial swarms, it 
would appear that it is unsafe at any time but the 
swarming season ; that is mj^ opinion. It may do a 
little in advance or a little after, providing royal cells 
can be had. By feeding as directed, (in Chapter IX.) 
you may induce a stock to send out a swarm some 
days in advance of the regular season, thereby giving 
you a chance for these cells somewhat early. 

SOMETIMES HAZARDOUS. 

To make such swarms at any time when the bees 
are destroying drones, would be extremely hazardous, 
not only on account of the young queen being im- 
pregnated, but their massacre denotes, a scarcity of 
honey. Therefore I would advise never to make 
swarms, or drive out bees at such periods, when it can 
be avoided, without spare honey is on hand to feed 
them 

SOME OBJECTIONS. 

It has been argued by some, and with much reason, 
that "nature is the best guide, and it is better to let 



260 SUMMER. 

the bees have their own way about swarming — if 
honey is abundant, and the stock is in condition to 
spare a swarm, their own instincts will teach them to 
construct royal cells ; if it fails before they are ready, 
and the royal brood is destroyed, it is because the 
existence of the swarm would be precarious, and it is 
best not to issue." I will grant that in many instances 
it is better. The chance is better for surplus honey ; 
the stock is quite sure to be in condition to winter; 
and some judgment is required to tell when a stock 
can spare a swarm. 

But yet, we are sometimes anxious to increase our 
stocks to the utmost that safety will allow, and often 
have some that can spare a swarm as well as not, but 
refuse to leave ; perhaps commence preparations, and 
in a few days abandon them. Kow it is evident that as 
long as many continue such preparation, that honey 
is sufficiently abundant to put the safety of the swarm 
beyond hazard ; some stocks will swarm while these 
others just as good, (that had abandoned it before) 
and have not now begun again, to be in time before a 
partial failure of honey, and some may not have com- 
menced in season. 

NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL SWARMS EQUALLY PROSPEROUS. 

I can see no difference in artificial or natural swarms 
of equal size, at the same time. By taking the matter 
in time into our own hands, with the rules given, we 
make a sure thing of it, that is, we are sure to get the 
swarms, when if left to the bees it would be uncer- 
tain, and no greater risk afterwards than with natural 
issues. 



ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 261 

THIS MATTER TOO OFTEN DELAYED. 

I am aware that this matter will be apt to be put 
off too long; " wait and see if they don't swarm," will 
be the motto of too many, and when the season is over, 
drive them. Perhaps a good swarm has set outside 
the hive, all through the best of the honey season, 
and done nothing, while they could have half filled a 
hive; but this is all lost now, as well as the best chances 
for getting cells. Let me impress the necessity of 
doing it in season, when it will pay. If you intend 
to have a swarm from every stock that can spare one, 
begin when nature points out the proper time, which 
is, when the regular ones begin to issue. It must, in- 
deed, be a poor season when there are none. 

IS THE AGE OF THE QUEEN IMPORTANT? 

There is another object effected in this way, con- 
sidered by some apiarians as very important. It is the 
change of the queens in the old stock. A young queen 
is thought to be "much more prolific than an old one." 
They even recommend keeping none " over two or 
three } r ears old," and give directions how they may 
be renewed. But as I have been unable to discover 
any difference in relation to the age in this respect, I 
shall not at present take much time to discuss it. It 
is well enough, when we can take our choice without 
trouble, to preserve a ^oung queen. When we con- 
sider that there are but few queens but what will de- 
posit three times as many eggs in a season as are 
matured, it looks as if it would hardly pay to take 
much trouble to change them. At what time the 



262 SUMMER. 

queen becomes barren from old age, I presume has 

never yet been fully determined. 

A friend of mine has had a stock in a large room 
eight years, that has never swarmed, and is still pros- 
perous ! I think it very probable that this queen will 
gradually decay, and possibly become barren, some 
weeks before she dies ; if so, this stock will soon die 
off. A few such cases will probably occur in swarm- 
ing hives, perhaps one in fifty, but generally such old 
and feeble queens are lost when they leave with the 
swarm, especially in windy weather. As long as they 
are able to go with the swarm, and sometimes when 
they are not, I have found them sufficiently prolific 
for all purposes. I would rather risk their fecundity, 
and hive the swarm, than to allow the bees to return 
to the parent stock, and wait eight or nine days for a 
young queen to mature. A great many will remain 
idle, even if there is room to work in the boxes. 



CHAPTER XYI. 

PRUNING. 

Notwithstanding I have given the method of 
pruning in the chapter on hives, (page 31, Chapter II.) 
it will be necessary to give the tyro in bee-culture a 
few more particulars. The season for doing it is of 
importance. 

DIFFERENT OPINIONS AS TO TIME. 

The month of March has been recommended by 



PRUNING. 263 

several ; others prefer April, August, or September. 
Here, as usual, I shall have to differ from them all. 
preferring still another period, for which I offer my 
reasons, supposing, of course, that the reader is con- 
scious of a freeman's privilege, that is, to adopt what- 
ever method he thinks proper, on this, as on any other 
point. 

ANOTHER TIME PREFERRED. 

There is but one period from February till October, 
when prosperous stocks are free from young brood in 
the combs. If combs are taken out when occupied, 
there must be a loss of all the young bees they con- 
tain ; which may be avoided. The old queen leaves 
with the first swarm ; all the eggs she leaves in the 
worker-cells will be matured in about twenty -one 
days, consequently this is the time to clear out the 
old combs with the least waste. A few drones will be 
found in the cells, that would require a few days more 
to hatch, but these are of no account. Also a few 
very young larvae and some eggs may be sometimes 
found, the product of the young queen ; these few 
must be wasted, but as the bees have expended no 
labor upon them as yet, it is better to sacrifice these 
than the greater number left by her mother, which 
have consumed their portion of food ; the bees have 
sealed them up, and now only require the necessary 
time to mature, to make a valuable addition to the 
stock. 

SHOULD NOT BE DELAYED. 

Should this operation be put off for a time much 



264 SUMMER. 

longer than three weeks, the young queen will so fill 
the combs again as to make it a serious loss. There- 
fore, I wish to urge strongly attention to this point 
at the proper season. If you think it unimportant to 
mark the date of joui first swarms for the purposes 
mentioned in another place, it will be found very con- 
venient here, for those that need pruning. 

It is also recommended by some, to take only a 
part, say one-third or half, in a season ; thereby taking 
two or three years to renew the combs. This is ad- 
visable only when the family is very small. As this 
space made by pruning cannot be filled without wax 
and labor, our surplus honey will be proportionate to 
its extent. Now suppose we take out half the old 
combs, and get half a yield of box honey this year, 
and the same next, or make a full operation of it and 
get none this year, and a full one next. What is 
the difference ? There is none in point of honey, but 
some in trouble, and that is in favor of a full opera- 
tion at once. We have to go through with about the 
same trouble to get one-third or half as to take the 
whole. 

OBJECTION TO PRUNING. 

The objection to this mode of renewing combs 
generally, will be the fear of getting stung. But I 
can assure you there is but little danger, not as much 
as to walk among the hives in a warm day. Only 
begin right, use the smoke, and work carefully, with- 
out pinching them, and you will escape unhurt gen- 
erally. 



PRUNING. 266 

STOCKS PRUNED NOW ARE BETTER FOR WINTER. 

Besides the advantage of saving a large brood by 
pruning at this season, such stocks will usually refill 
before fall, and are much better for wintering, which 
is not the case when it is done later. We must of 
necessity then waste the brood, and have a large space 
unoccupied with combs through the winter. But few 
combs can then be made, and those few must be at 
the expense of their winter stores, unless we resort to 
feeding. 

These objections apply with greater force to pruning 
in March or April. The loss of brood is of much more 
consequence now, than in mid-summer, or even later, 
and a space to be filled with combs is a serious dis- 
advantage. It is important that the bees should de- 
vote their whole attention now to rearing brood, and 
be ready to cast their swarms as early as possible. 
One early swarm is worth two late ones. Suppose a 
stock, instead of collecting food and nursing its young, 
is compelled to expend its honey and labor in secret- 
ing wax and constructing combs before it can proceed 
with breeding advantageously, it must of necessity be 
some weeks later. 

Further, I have always found it best to have the 
bees out of the way, during this operation. It will 
be found much more difficult to drive the bees out of 
a hive in the cool weather of March or April, than in 
summer, as they seem unwilling to shift their warm 
quarters and go into a cold hive. 

It is presumed the reader will bear in mind the dis* 
12 



266 SUMMER. 

advantages already given of too frequently renewing 
combs ; the little value of combs for storing honey, 
for our use, after being once used for breeding ; the 
necessity of the bees using them as long as they 
possibly will answer ; and not compel them to be fill- 
ing the hive, when they might be storing honey of the 
purest quality in boxes, &c. 

Vide remarks on this subject on page 30, Chapter II. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

DISEASED BROOD. 

This, like many other chapters in this work, is 
probably new, as I never saw one thus headed. A 
few newspaper discussions are about all that have yet 
appeared on this subject. 

NOT GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD. 

This disease is probably of recent origin. Mr. 
Miner, it appears, knew nothing of it until he moved 
from Long Island to Oneida County, in this State. 
Mr. Weeks, in a communication to the N. E. Farmer, 
says, " Since the potato rot commenced, I have lost 
one-fourth of my stocks annually, by this disease ;" at 
the same time adds his fears, that " this race of in- 
sects will become extinct from this cause, if not arrest- 
ed." (Perhaps I ought to mention, that he speaks of 
it as attacking the "chrysalis" instead of the larva; 
but as every thing else about it agrees exactly, there 
is but little doubt of its being all one thing.) 



DISEASED BRa/OD. 267 



MY OWN EXPERIENCE. 

My first experience will probably go back to a date 
beyond many others ; it is almost twenty years since 
the first case was noticed. I had kept bees but four 
or five years when I discovered it in one of my best 
stocks ; in fact, it was No. 1 in May and first of June. It 
cast no swarm through the summer ; and now, instead 
of being crowded with bees, it contained but very 
few ; so few, that I dared not attempt to winter it. 
What was the matter ? I had then never dreamed 
of ascertaining the condition of a stock while there 
were bees in the way, but was like the unskilful phy- 
sician who is obliged to wait for the death of his pa- 
tient, that he may dissect and discover the cause. I 
accordingly consigned what few bees there were to 
the " brimstone pit." 

DESCRIPTION OF DISEASE. 

A "post mortem 1 ' 1 examination revealed the follow- 
ing circumstances : Nine-tenths of the breeding-cells 
were found to contain young bees in the larva state, 
stretched out at full length, sealed over, dead, black, 
putrid, and emitting a disagreeable stench. Now here 
was one link in the chain of cause and effect. I 
learned why there was a scarcity of bees in the 
hive. What should have constituted their increase, 
had died in the cells ; none of them were removed, 
consequently but few cells, where ajry bees could be 
matured, were left. 



268 SUMMER. 

THE CAUSE UNCERTAIN". 

But when I attempted the next link in the chain, 
(to wit,) What caused the death of this brood just at 
this stage of development ? I was obliged to stop. 
Not the least satisfaction could be obtained. All in- 
quiries among the bee-keepers of my acquaintance 
were met with profound ignorance. They had u never 
heard of it !" No work on bees that I consulted ever 
mentioned it. 

Subsequently, I had more stocks in the same situ- 
ation. I found, whenever the disease existed to any 
extent, that the few bees matured were insufficient to 
replace those that were lost.; that the colony rapidly 
declined, and never afterwards cast a swarm / 

REMEDIAL EXPERIMENTS. 

As for remedies, I tried pruning out all those combs 
containing brood, leaving only such as contained 
honey, and let the bees construct new for breeding. 
It was " no use," these new combs were invariably 
filled with diseased brood ! The only thing effectual 
was to drive out the bees, into an empty hive. In 
this way, when done in season, I generally succeeded 
in rearing a healthy stock. But here was a loss of all 
surplus honey, and a swarm or two that might have 
been obtained from a healthy one 

PUBLIC INQUIRY AND ANSWERS. 

I had so many cases of the kind, that I became 
somewhat alarmed, and made inquiry through the 
Cultivator, (an agricultural paper,) as to a cause, and 
remedy, offering a " reward for one that would not 



DISEASED BROOD, 269 

fail when thoroughly tested," &c. Mr. Weeks, in 
answer, said, " that cold weather in spring chilling 
the brood was the cause." (This was several years 
prior to his article in the N". E. Farmer.) Another 
gentleman said, "dead bees and filth that accumulated 
during winter, when suffered to remain in the spring, 
was the cause." A few years after, another corres- 
pondent appeared in the Cultivator, giving particulars 
of his experience, proving very conclusively to him- 
self and many others, that cold was the cause. Hav- 
ing mislaid the paper containing his article, I will 
endeavor to quote correctly from memory. He had 
" three swarms issue in one day ; the weather during 
the day changed from very hot to the other extreme, 
producing frost in many places the next morning. 
These swarms had left but few bees in the old stocks, 
and the cold forced them up among the combs for 
mutual warmth ; the brood near the bottom, thus left 
without bees to protect it with animal heat, became 
chilled, and the consequence was diseased larvae." 
He then reasoned thus : "If the eggs of a fowl, at 
any time near the end of incubation, become chilled 
from any cause, it stops all further development. 
Bees are developed by continued heat, on the same 
principle, and a chill produces the same effect, &c. ; 
afterwards, other swarms issued under precisely simi- 
lar circumstances ; but these old stocks were covered 
with a blanket through the night, which enabled the 
bees to keep at the bottom of the hive. In a few 
days, enough were hatched to render this trouble un- 
necessary. These last remained healthy." He fur 



270 SUMMER. 

ther says, that " last spring was the first time I ever 
knew them to become diseased before swarming had 
thinned the population. The weather was remarkably 
pleasant through April. The bees obtained great 
quantities of pollen and honey, and by this means 
extended their brood farther than usual at this season. 
Subsequent chilly weather in May, caused the bees to 
desert a portion of brood, which were destroyed by 
the chill." 

Now this is reasoning from cause to effect very 
consistently. 

ANSWERS NOT SATISFACTORY. 

Had I no experience further than this, I should, 
perhaps, rest satisfied as to the cause, and should en- 
deavor to apply the remedy. Several other writers 
have appeared in different papers, on this subject, 
and nearly all who assign a cause have given this one 
as the most probable. Now I have known the chry- 
salis in a few stocks to be chilled and destroyed by a 
sudden turn of cold weather, yet these were removed 
by the bees soon after, and the stocks remained heal- 
thy. To me the cause assigned appears inadquate to 
produce all the results with the larvse. After close, 
patient observation of fifteen years, I have never yet 
been wholly satisfied that any one instance among my 
bees, was thus produced. 

A CAUSE SUGGESTED. 

We are all familiar to some extent with the conta- 
gious diseases of the human family, such as small-pox, 



DISEASED BROOD. 271 

whooping-cough, and measles, and their rapid spread 
from a given point, &c. We must also admit that 
some cause or causes, adequate . to the effect, must 
have produced the first case. To contagion, then, 
I would attribute the spread of this disease of our 
bees, at least nineteen cases in twenty. I will admit, 
if you please, that one stock in twenty or fifty may be 
somewhat affected by a chill to a small extent. It is 
only a portion of the brood that is in danger — only 
such as have been sealed over, and before they have 
progressed to the chrysalis state, are attacked. How 
many then can there be in a hive at any one time, in 
just the right stage of development to receive the fatal 
chill ? Of course there will be some ; but they should 
be confined to the cells near the bottom, where the 
bees had left them exposed. These should be all ; 
and these few would never seriously damage the stock. 
Why then does this disease, when thoroughly started, 
spread so rapidly throughout all the combs in the 
hive ? Will it be said that the chill is repeated every 
few days through the summer? Or will it be admitted 
that something else may continue it ? 

I think there must be other causes, besides the chill, 
even to start it, in most cases. As our practice will 
be in accordance with the view we take of this matter, 
and the result of our course will be somewhat import- 
ant, I will give some of the reasons that have led to 
this conclusion 



272 SUMMER, 

REASONS FOR THE OPINION. 

For instance, I bad all the bees of a good swarm 
leave the hive in March ; after flying a time, they 
united with another good stock, making double the 
usual number of bees at this season ; enough to keep 
the brood sufficiently warm at any time ; if other stocks 
with half or a quarter of the number could. By the 
middle of June, the bees were much reduced, and had 
not cast a swarm. It was examined, and the brood 
was found badly diseased. My best and most popu- 
lous stocks, in spring, are just as liable, and I might 
add more so, than smaller or weaker families. I have 
had two large swarms unite, and were hived together, 
that were diseased the next autumn. These cases 
prove strongly, if not conclusively, that animal heat is 
not the only requisite. The fact that when I had 
pruned out all affected comb from a diseased stock, and 
left honey in the top and outside pieces, and the bees 
constructed new for breeding, and the brood in such 
were invariably affected, though only a few at first, 
and increasing as the combs were extended ; led me 
to suppose that it was a contagious disease, and the 
virus was contained in the honey.' Some of it had 
been left in these stocks, and very probably the bees 
had fed it to the brood. To test this principle still 
further, I drove all the bees from such diseased stocks, 
strained the honey, and fed it to several young healthy 
swarms soon after being hived. When examined a 
few weeks after, every one, without an exception, had 
caught the contagion. 

Here then is a clue to the cause of this disease 



DISEASED BROOD. 273 

spreading, whether we have its origin or not. We will 
now see if we can trace it through, if there is any con- 
sistency in its transfer from one stock to another. 

CAUSE OF ITS SPREADING. 

Suppose one stock has caught the infection, but a 
small portion of the brood is dead. In the heat of the 
hive, it soon becomes putrid ; other cells adjoining 
with larvae of the right age are soon in the same con- 
dition. All the breeding combs in the hive become 
one putrid mass, with an exception, perhaps, of one in 
ten, twenty or a hundred, that imty perfect a bee. 
Thus the increase of bees is not enough to replace the 
old ones that are continually dying off. It is plain, 
therefore, that this stock must soon dwindle down to 
a very small family. JSTow let a scarcity of honey oc- 
cur in the fields, this poor stock cannot be properly 
guarded, and is easily plundered of its contents by 
the others. Honey is taken that is in close proximity 
to dead bodies, corrupting by thousands, creating a 
pestilential vapor, of which it has probably absorbed 
a portion. The seeds of destruction are by this means 
carried into healthy stocks. In a short time, these in 
turn fall victims to the scourge ; and soon dwindle 
away, when some other strong stock is able to carry 
off their stores ; and only stop, perhaps, at the last 
stock ! * The moth is ever ready with her burden of 
eggs, which she now without hindrance deposits di- 
rectly on the combs. In a short time the worms finish 
up the whole business, and are judged guilty of the 
12* 



274 SUMMER. 

whole charge ; merely because they are found carry- 
ing out effects that speedily follow such causes. 

Let the reader who doubts this theory, simply strain 
out honey, vitiated in this way, and feed it to a few 
stocks or swarms, that are healthy, and if they escape, 
communicate the fact to the public. But should he 
become satisfied that such honey is poison to his bees, 
he will with me, and all others interested, wish to stop 
this growing evil. 

NOT EASILY DETECTED AT FIRST. 

It is very difficult to detect the first hundred or two 
that die in a stock. But when nine-tenths of the 
breeding cells hold putrid larvae, there is but very little 
trouble in making out a correct diagnosis. The bees 
are few and inactive. When passing the hive our ol- 
factories are saluted with a nauseous effluvia, arising 
from this corrupting mass. Now, if we wish, or expect 
to escape, the most severe penalty, our neglect must 
never allow this extent of progression before such a 
stock is removed. Therefore, we must watch symp- 
toms — ascertain the presence of the disease at the ear- 
liest moment possible. 

SYMPTOMS TO BE OBSERVED. 

As no part of the breeding season is exempt, the 
stocks should be carefully observed during spring, and 
fore part of summer, relative to increase of bees. When 
one or more is much behind others in this respect, 
make an examination immediately. (I would here 



DISEASED BROOD. 275 

urge again the convenience of the simple, common hive, 
over those more complicated, or suspended, and dim- 
cult to turn over. In one case we might make an ex- 
amination in season ; in the other, too much trouble 
and difficulty might cause it to be put off too long.) 
The hive must be inverted, and the bees smoked out 
of the way. Our attention is to be directed to the 
breeding cells ; with a sharp-pointed knife, proceed to 
cut off the ends of some of them that appear to be the 
oldest; bearing in mind that young bees are always 
white, until some time after they take the chrysalis 
state. Therefore, if a larva is found of a dark color, 
it is dead ! Should a dozen such be found, the stock 
should be condemned at once, and all the bees driven 
into an empty hive. (The directions for this have 
been given, see page 31.) If honey should be scarce, 
at the time, they should be fed. 

SCALDING THE HONEY TO DESTROY THE POISON FOR FEEDING. 

The honey from the old hive may be used, if you 
will only first destroy the virus. This, I have ascer- 
tained, may be done by scalding : add a half-pint of 
water to about ten lbs. ; stir it well, and heat it to the 
boiling point, and carefully remove all the scum. 

Stocks in which the disease has not progressed too 
far, will generally swarm. 

WHEN TO EXAMINE STOCKS THAT HAVE SWARMED. 

Three weeks from the first swarm, will be the time 
to examine them. I make it a rule to inspect all my 
stocks at this period. It is easily done now, as about 



276 SUMMER. 

all the healthy brood (except drones) should be ma- 
tured in that time. By perseverance in these rules, I 
allow no stocks to dwindle away until they are plun- 
dered by others. If all my neighbors were equally 
careful, this disease would probably soon disappear. 
This is like one careless farmer allowing a noxious 
weed to mature seeds, to be wafted by winds on the 
lands of a careful neighbor, who must fortify his mind 
to continual vigilance, or endure the injury of a foul 
pest. So with the successful apiarian; in sections 
where the disease has appeared (it has not in all), he 
must be continually on the watch ; it is the price of 
success. 

CARE IN SELECTING STOCK HIVES FOR WINTER. 

Again, after the breeding season is over, in the fall, 
every stock should be thoroughly inspected, and all diseased 
ones condemned for stock hives. It is better to do it, 
even if it should take the last one. It would pay 
much better to procure others instead, that are healthy. 

Persons wishing to eat the honey from such hives, 
will experience no bad effects from it, if they are 
careful to remove all the dead brood, as they take it 
out of the hive. 

The greatest distance that I ever knew bees to go, 
and plunder a defenceless stock of its contents, was 
three-fourths of a mile. "Very likely they would go 
farther on some occasions, but not often. 

ACCUSATIONS NOT ALWAYS RIGHT. 

Careless bee-keepers, when their hives are thus 
robbed, feel regret, or are more often vexed at some- 



IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 277 

body — at the result of their carelessness. The per- 
son keeping most bees in a neighborhood, must 
expect to be accountable for all effects of their igno- 
rance, mismanagement, or carelessness, and consequent 
"bad luck;" when all the honey thus obtained, 
probably carries with it more mischief than can be 
eradicated in a twelvemonth, thereby giving the real 
cause of complaint to the other party. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 

Keeping bees good-natured, offers a pretty fair 
subject for ridicule: it seems rather too absurd to 
teach a bee anything ! Nevertheless, it is worth while 
to think of it a little. Most of us know that by inju- 
dicious training, horses, cattle, dogs, &c, may be ren- 
dered extremely vicious. If there is no perceptible 
analogy between these and bees, experience proves 
that they may be made ten times more irritable than 
they naturally would be. 

THEIR MEANS OF DEFENCE. 

Nature has armed them with means to defend their 
stores, and provided them with combativeness suffi- 
cient to use them when necessary. This could not be 
bettered. If they were powerless to repel an enemy, 
there are a thousand lazy depredators, man not ex- 
cepted, who would prey upon the fruits of their in- 
dustry, leaving them to starve. Had it been so ar- 



278 SUMMER. 

ranged, this industrious insect would probably have 
long since been extinct. 

TIME OF GREATEST IRRITABILITY; 

The season of their greatest caution, in this section, 
is August, during the flowers of buckwheat. It is 
then their stores are greatest. As soon as a stock is 
pretty well supplied with this world's goods, like 
some bipeds, they become very haughty, proud, aris- 
tocratic, and insolent. A great many things are con- 
strued into insults, that in their days of adversity 
would pass unnoticed ; but now it is becoming and 
proper for their honor to show a "just resentment. " 
It behooves us, therefore, to ascertain what are con- 
sidered insults. 

PROPER CONDUCT. 

First, all quick motions, such as running, striking, 
&c, about them, are noticed. If our movements among 
them are slow, cautious, humble, and respectful, we 
are often let to pass unmolested, having manifested a 
becoming deportment. Yet the exhalations from 
some persons appear very offensive, as they attack 
them much sooner than others ; though I apprehend 
there is not so great a difference as many suppose. 
Whenever an attack is made, and a sting follows, the 
venom thus imparted to the air, if by only one. is 
perceived by others at some distance, which will im- 
mediately approach the scene, and more stings are 
likely to follow than if the first had not been. 



IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 279 

HOW TO PROCEED WHEN ATTACKED. 

Striking them down renders them ten times more 
furious. Not in the least daunted, they return to the 
attack. Not the least show of fear is perceived. Even 
after losing their sting, they obstinately refuse to 
desist. It is much the best way to walk as quietly as 
possible to the shelter of some bush, or to the house. 
They will seldom go inside of the door. 

A PERSON'S BREATH OFFENSIVE, AND OTHER CAUSES. 

The breath of a person inside the hive, or among 
them, when clustered outside, is considered in the tri- 
bunals of their insect wisdom as the greatest indignity. 
A sudden jar, sometimes made by carelessly turning 
up the hive, is another. After being once thoroughly 
irritated in this way, they remember it for weeks, and 
are continually on the alert ; the moment the hive is 
touched, they are ready to salute a person's face. 
When slides of tin or zinc are used to cut off the com- 
munication between the hives and boxes, some of the 
bees are apt to be crushed or cut in two. This they 
remember, and retaliate, as occasion offers ; and it may 
be when quietly walking in the apiary. 

THEIR MANNER OF ATTACK. 

I must disagree with any one who says we always 
have warning before being stung. I have been stung 
a few times myself. Two-thirds of them were received 
without the least notice — the first intimation was the 
"blow." At other times, when fully determined on 
vengeance, I have had them strike my hat and remain 



280 SUMMER. 

a moment endeavoring to effect their object. In this 
case, I have warning to hold down my face to protect 
it from the next attempt, which is quite sure to fol- 
low. As they fly horizontally, the face held in that 
position is not so liable to be attacked. When they 
are not so thoroughly charged with anger, they often 
approach in merely a threatening attitude, buzzing 
around very provokingly for several minutes in close 
proximity to our ears and face, apparently to ascertain 
our intentions. If nothing hostile or displeasing is 
perceived, they will generally leave ; but should a 
quick motion or offensive breath offend them, the 
dreaded result is almost sure to follow. Too many 
people are apt to take these threatening manifesta- 
tions as positive intentions to sting. "When these 
things can be quietly endured, and at the same time 
leave their vicinity, it generally ends peaceably. They 
never make an attack while away from their home in 
quest of honey, or on their return, until they have 
entered the hive. It is only in the hive and its 
vicinity that we expect to meet this irascible tempera- 
ment, which should not be allowed, or at least may 
be subdued in a great measure, if not entirely, by 
doing things in a quiet manner, and by the use of 
tobacco smoke. Any person having the care of bees 
should go armed with this powerful weapon. As bees 
are not much affected with smoke, while flying in the 
air, but will have their own way, we must take them 
in the hive as the place to teach them a proper deport- 
ment! 
Those who are accustomed to smoking will find a 



IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 281 

pipe or segar very convenient here. But such as are 
not would do better, perhaps, not to learn a bad habit. 
T will therefore give a simple substitute. 

SMOKER DESCRIBED. 

Get a tube of tin about five-eighths of an inch di- 
ameter, five or six inches in length ; make stoppers 
cf wood to fit both ends, two and a half or three 
inches long ; with your nail-gimlet make a hole 
through them lengthwise : when put together it should 
be about ten inches. The ends may be tapered. On 
one end leave a notch, that it may be held with the 
teeth, which is the most convenient way, as you will 
often want to use both hands : it is also always ready, 
without any trouble to blow through, and also to keep 
the tobacco burning. When ready to operate, fill the 
tube with tobacco, ignite it, and put in the stoppers ; 
by blowing through it you keep the tobacco burning 
while the smoke issues at the other end. 

EFFECT OF TOBACCO SMOKE. 

We can now subdue these combative propensities, 
or render them harmless ; turn their anger to submis- 
sion, and make them yield their treasures to the hands 
of the spoiler without an effort of resistance ! When 
once overpowered, they seem to lose all knowledge 
of their strength, and no slave can be more submis- 
sive ! After the effects of the smoke have passed off, 
their former animosity will return. Should any re- 
sentment be shown on raising a hive, blow in the 
smoke ; they immediately retreat, " begging pardon." 



282 SUMMER. 

After a few times, they learn u it's no use," and allow 
an inspection. If you wish to take off a box, raise it 
just enough to blow under the smoke; there is no 
trouble ; you can replace it with another ; the bees 
are kept out of the way with a little more smoke, and 
no anger created about it to be remembered. Those in the 
box are all submission ; they can be carried away and 
handled as you please, without a possibility of getting 
them irritated, until they once more get home, and 
then are much more " amiable" than if the box had 
been taken without the smoke. They seem to forget, 
or do not realize anything of the transaction. When 
bees are to be transferred to a new hive, it is unneces- 
sary to be so very particular about the escape of a 
single bee ; no fears need be entertained of such as get 
out. In driving, the loud humming indicates their 
submission ; the upper hive can then be safely raised 
at any time. After being thus driven out, they may 
be pushed about with impunity, and still be quiet ! 
In short, by using smoke on all occasions where they 
would be likely to be disturbed without it by our 
meddling with them, it has a tendency to keep dor- 
mant their combative propensities. "When these have 
never been aroused, there is much less danger from 
their attacks while walking or looking among them. 
Any one wishing farther proof, I would recommend 
the experiment of managing one year with smoke, and 
the next without. 

STING DESCRIBED. 

Their sting, as it appears to the naked eye, is but a 



IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 283 

tiny instrument of war; so small, indeed, that its 
wound would pass unheeded by all the larger animals, 
if it was not for the poison introduced at the same in- 
stant. It has been described as being " composed of 
three parts, a sheath and two darts. Both the darts 
are furnished with small points or barbs like a fish- 
hook," that hold it when introduced into the flesh ; 
the bee being compelled to leave it behind. 

DOES ITS LOSS PROVE FATAL? 

It is said " to the bee itself this mutilation proves 
fatal." This last is another assertion for fact, so often 
repeated, that perhaps we might as well admit it ; 
seeing the difficulty we should have in disproving it. 
Only think of the impossibility of keeping our eye, 
for five minutes, on a bee that is flying about, after it 
has left its sting. Yet there are some persons so very 
particular about what they receive as facts, that they 
would require this very unreasonable thing of watch- 
ing a bee till it died, before they could be positively 
sure that the loss of its sting caused its death. (It is 
much easier to guess.) They might even take analo- 
gy, and say that other insects possess so little sensation 
that they have been known to recover after much 
more extensive mutilation — that beetles have lived for 
months under circumstances that would have instant- 
ly killed some of the higher animals — that spiders 
often reproduce a leg, even lobsters can replace a lost 
claw, &c. I have put off describing any protection 
against their attacks, because I wish to get up a little 
more courage in our doings among them. Yet it is 



284 SUMMER. 

folly to expect all will manage successfully without 
something for defence. 

MEANS OF PROTECTION. 

The face and hands are most exposed; for the 
latter, thick woollen mittens or gloves are best ; the 
sting is generally left when thrust into a leather 
glove. For the face procure one and a half yards of 
thin muslin or calico, sew the ends together, the upper 
end gathered on a string small enough to prevent it 
slipping over the head when put on. An arm-hole is 
to be cut out on each side ; below is another string to 
gather it close to the body. As I do not expect you 
to work in the dark, we will have a place cut out in 
front, and a piece of coarse lace inserted ; that which 
will just prevent a bee from passing, is best, as it 
gives us a better chance to see. To keep it from fall- 
ing against the face, a wire is bent around and sewed 
fast. Any person that knows how to put on a shirt 
will manage this. When thus equipped, and other 
garments of proper thickness, the most timid ought 
not to hesitate to venture among them, when necessary. 
I cannot avoid cautioning you again to beware of 
irritating your bees, until this protection is necessary, 
as it is a rather bad state of things. "With this on, 
you cannot conveniently use any smoke. To put this 
on and off is considerable trouble, and every time you 
go among them, if you have to resort to this, I fear 
some necessary duties will be neglected. Whenever 
a partial protection will do, I would recommend a 
handkerchief; it is always at hand, and can be put on 



IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 285 

in a moment ; throw it over the head, letting the ends 
fall around the neck and shoulders, covering all but 
the face. The hat can come on over it. As for the face, 
whenever a bee comes around in a menacing attitude, 
hold it down — unless he stings at the first onset, there 
is not much risk. 

REMEDIES FOR STINGS. 

Concerning the remedies for stings, it is a hard 
matter to tell which is the best. There is so much 
difference in the effect in different individuals, and the 
different parts of the body, as well as the depth the 
sting reaches, that a great variety of remedies are re- 
commended. 

A person is slightly stung, and applies something 
as an antidote ; the effect of the sting is trifling, as 
perhaps it would have been without anything, and the 
medicine is forthwith extolled as a sovereign remedy. 
I have been thus deceived ; when slightly stung ap- 
plied what I thought cured in one case, when in the next 
the sting might have penetrated deeper, or in some 
other place, and the remedy would seem to have no 
effect. For the last few years, I have not made any 
application whatever for myself, and the effect is no 
worse, nor even as bad as formerly. (This, I am told, is 
because the system is hardened, and now can resist or 
throw off the effects.) Among the remedies recom- 
mended, are saleratus and water, salt and water, soft- 
soap mixed with salt, a raw onion cut in two and one- 
half applied, mud or clay mixed pretty wet and 
changed often, tobacco wet and rubbed thoroughly to 



286 SUMMER. 

get at the strength, and cold water constantly applied. 
To cure the smart, the application of tobacco is slrong- 
ly urged, and cold water is spoken of with equal 
favor to prevent the swelling. 

When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt 
and water is said will prevent serious consequences. 

Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, 
I suppose it is unnecessary to say that the sting should 
be pulled out as soon as practicable. 



CHAPTEE XIX 

ENEMIES OF BEES. 



Among the enemies of bees, there are included 
rats, mice, birds, toads, and insects. 



ARE THEY ALL GUILTY? 



But some of these are probably clear of any actual 
mischief. I strongly suspect that the spirit of destruc- 
tiveness with many people is altogether too active. 
There are some farmers, with this principle predomi- 
nant, so short-sighted, that if it was in their power 
they would destroy a whole class of birds, because 
some of them had picked a few cherries, or dug out a 
few hills of corn, when, at the same time, they are 
indebted to their activity in devouring worms, insects, 
&c, that would otherwise have destroyed entire crops ! 
It will be well, therefore, before condemnation, to see 
if on the whole we are to be gainers or losers by an in- 
discriminate slaughter, without judge or jury. 



EXEHIES OF BEES. 287 

RATS AND MICE. 

Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in 
cold weather. The entrances of all hives standing out 
are too small to admit a rat. It is only when in the 
house that much damage need be apprehended. They 
appear to be fond of honey, and when it is accessible 
will eat several pounds in a short time. 

Mice will often enter the hive when standing on 
the bench, and make extensive depredations. Some- 
times, after eating a space in the combs, they will 
there make their nest. The animal heat created by 
the bees will make a snug, warm place for winter 
quarters. There are two kinds: one the common 
class, belonging to the house ; the other called " deer- 
mouse" — the under side perfectly white, the back 
much lighter than the other kind. The latter seems 
to be particularly fond of the bees, while the first ap- 
pears to relish the honey. Whether they take bees 
that are alive, or only such as are already dead, I 
cannot say. Only a part of the bee is eaten ; and if 
we take the fragments left to judge of the number 
consumed, the circumstance will go some ways to prove 
the sacrifice of quite a number. Whether bees or 
honey is wasted, a little care to prevent their depre- 
dations is well worthy of bestowal. As rats and mice 
have so long since been condemned and sentenced for 
being a universal plague, and without a redeeming 
trait, I will say nothing in their favor, and am per- 
fectly willing they shall be hanged till dead. 



288 SUMMER. 

ARE ALL THE BIRDS G.-LTY? 

But for some of the birds accused of preying upon 
bees, I would say a word. 

KING-BIRD ONE WORD IN HIS FAVOR, 

The king-bird stands at the head of the list of 
depredators ! With a fair trial he will be found guilty, 
though not so heinously criminal as many suppose. I 
think we shall find him guilty of taking only the drones. 
In the afternoon of a fair day he may be seen perched 
upon some dry branch of a shrub or tree near the 
apiary, watching for his victims, occasionally darting 
to seize them. I have shot him down and examined 
his crop, after seeing him devour a goodly number ; 
but in every instance the bees were so crushed to 
pieces, that it was impossible to distinguish workers 
from drones. We are told of great numbers of work- 
ers being counted. It may be so, or it may be thus 
represented by a spice of prejudice. I have found 
the brutal gratification of taking life so strong with 
some, that a natural antipathy is allowed to take the 
place of justice, and a proper defence is not allowed 
in such cases where the suffering party has not the 
power to enforce it. If he was satisfied with workers 
as well as drones, why does he not visit the apiary 
long before noon, and fill his crop with them ? But 
instead, he waits till afternoon for the drones ; and if 
none are flying, he watches quietly till one appears, 
although workers may be out by hundreds continu- 
ally. If the question is asked, how they tell the dif- 
ference in the two kinds of bees, I might suggest that 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 289 

instinct has taught most animals the proper kind of 
food, and might direct the birds in this case. If it 
was not sufficient, a little experience in catching bees 
provided with stings, might impart the important dif- 
ference, in one or two lessons. I once had a chicken 
that knew the difference by some means, and would 
stand by the hive and devour every drone, the mo- 
ment it touched the board, while the workers would 
pass by him in scores untouched ! 

Now, whether this taking the drones is a disad- 
vantage or otherwise, would depend entirely upon 
circnmstances. If honey was a little scarce, the less 
we had of them the better ; it would also save the 
bees some trouble in dispatching them. It is probably 
a matter of so little moment to our bees, that it will 
not pay for powder to shoot them. 

Martins, and a kind of swallows, are said to be 
guilty of taking bees on some occasions; but as they 
pursue them on the wing, (if they do), the same re- 
marks will apply as to the king-bird. 

CAT-BIRD ACQUITTED. 

The cat-bird also comes in for a share of censure. 
It is said "they will get right down by the hive, and 
pick up bees by the hundred.' 7 Yet, right in the face 
of this charge, I am disposed to acquit him. With 
the closest observation, I find him about the hive, 
picking up only young and immature bees, such as are 
removed from the combs and thrown out. They may 
be seen as soon as the first rays of light make objects 
visible about the apiary, looking for their morning 
13 



290 SUMMER. 

supply, as well as frequent visits during the day. 
Should an unlucky worm be in sight just thenj 
while looking up a place for spinning a cocoon, or a 
moth reposing on some corner of the hive, their fate 
is at once decided. Before destroying this bird, it 
would be well to judge by actual observation as to 
facts ; otherwise we might " destroy a friend instead 
of a foe." 

TOAD GOT CLEAR. 

A toad is discovered near the hives, and forthwith 
he is executed as a bee-eater. " He ought to be killed 
for his looks, if nothing else !" He is thus often sacri- 
ficed really on account of his appearance, while pre- 
tending he is a villain. It is true his " feathers" will 
not vie in brilliancy with the plumage of the hum- 
ming-bird, and do not gratify ideality — therefore he 
is dispatched. The next week the complaint is made 
that the little bugs, that he might have destroyed, 
" have eaten up all the little cucumbers and cabbages." 
His food is probably small insects. Whoever has 
seen him swallow bees, must have watched closer than 
I ever did. 

WASPS AND HORNETS NOT FAVORED. 

As for the frequent visits of the black- wasp in the 
sunny days of spring, but little can be said in their 
favor — they seem to have no other object but to tease 
and irritate the bees. I never could discover that they 
entered the hive for the purpose of plunder. They 
have frequent battles with the bees, but I never saw 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 291 

any bees devoured or carried off, nor even killed. 
After the first of June they are seldom troublesome. 
The yellow wasp or hornet, that is around in autumn, 
is of but little account; their object is honey, which 
they take when they can get it, but are not apt to enter 
the hive among the bees. 

ANTS A WORD IN THEIR FAVOR. 

Ants come in for a share of condemnation. This 
little industrious insect shall have my endeavors for a 
fair hearing ; I think I can understand why they are 
so frequently accused of robbing bees. Many bee- 
keepers are wholly ignorant, most of the time, of the 
real condition of their stocks. Many causes independ- 
ent of ants, induce a reduction of population. Suppose 
the bees are so reduced as to leave the combs unpro- 
tected, and the ants enter and appropriate some of the 
honey to themselves, and should the owner come along 
just then and see them engaged, " Ha ! you are the 
rascals that have destroyed my bees," without a thought 
of looking for causes, beyond present appearances. 
They are often unjustly accused by the farmer of in- 
juring the growth of his little trees, by causing the 
tender leaves to curl and wither. Inquiries are often 
made in some of the agricultural papers for means to 
destroy them, merely because they are found on them; 
when the real cause of the mischief is with the plant 
louse, (aphis) that is upon the leaves or stalk in hun- 
dreds, robbing them of their important juices, and se- 
creting a fluid greatly prized by the ants. By destroy. 
ing the lice, you remove all the attraction of the ants. 



292 SUMMER. 

The peculiar habits of the small black ants, probably 
give rise to a suspicion of mischief in this way. They 
live in communities of thousands — their nests are usu- 
ally in old walls, in old timber, under stones, and in 
the earth. From their nests a string may be traced 
sometimes for rods, going after, and returning laden 
with food. During a spell of wet weather, such as 
would make the earth and many other places too damp 
and cold for a nest, they look out for better quarters. 
The top or chamber of our bee-hives affords shelter 
from rain. The animal heat from the bees renders it 
perfectly comfortable. How then can we blame them 
for choosing such a location, so completely answering 
all their wants? As long as the bees are not disturbed, 
we can put up with it better. But the careless ob- 
server having discovered their train to and fro from 
their nest on the hive, exclaims: " Why, I have seen 
them going in a continual stream to the hive after 
honey ;" when a little scrutiny into the matter would 
show that only the nest was on the top of the hive, 
and they were going somewhere else for food ; not one 
to be seen entering the hi ve among the bees for honey, 
(at least I never could detect it.) 

When honey is unprotected by bees, or boxes of it 
placed where they can have access, as a natural con- 
sequence, they will carry off some ; but it is easily 
secured. 

SPIDER CONDEMNED. 

Spiders are a source of considerable annoyance to 
the apiarian, as well as to the bees ; not so much on 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 293 

account of the number of bees consumed, as their habit 
of spinning a web about the hive, that will occasion- 
ally take a moth, and will probably entangle fifty bees 
the whilst. They are either in fear of the bees, or they 
are not relished as food ; particularly, as a bee caught 
in the morning is frequently untouched during the 
day. This web is often exactly before the entrance, 
entangling the bees as they go out and return ; irri- 
tating and hindering them considerably. They often 
escape after repeated struggles. I have removed a 
web from the same place every morning, for a week, 
that was renewed at night with astonishing persever- 
ance ! I can generally look out his hiding-place, which 
is in some corner near by, and dispatch him. His re- 
deeming qualities are few, and are more than balanced 
by the evil, as far as I have discovered. Their saga- 
city in some instances will find a place of concealment 
not easily discovered. At the approach of cold wea- 
ther, the box or chamber of the hive being a little 
warmer than other places, will attract a great many 
there to deposit their eggs. Little piles of webbing 
or silk may be seen attached to the top of the hive, 
or sides of boxes. These contain eggs for the 
next year's brood. This is the time to destroy them 
and save trouble for the future. 

If we combine into one phalanx all the depredators 
yet named, and compare their ability for mischief with 
the wax moth, we shall find their powers of destruc- 
tion but a small item ! Of the moth itself we would 
have nothing to fear were it not for her progeny, that 



294 SUMMER. 

consist of a hundred or a thousand vile worms, whose 
food is principally wax or comb. 

As the instinct of the flesh-fly directs her to a 
putrid carcass to deposit her eggs, that her offspring 
may have their proper food, so the moth seeks the 
hive containing combs, and where its natural food is 
at hand to furnish a supply. During the day a rusty 
brown miller, with its wings wrapped close around the 
body, may be often seen lying perfectly motionless on 
the side of the hive on one corner, or the under edge 
of the top, where it projects over — they are more fre- 
quent at the corners than anywhere else, one-third 
of their length projecting beyond it; appearing much 
like a sliver on the edge of a board that is somewhat 
weather-beaten. Their color so closely resembles old 
wood, that I have no doubt their enemies are often 
deceived, and let them escape with their lives. As 
soon as daylight shuts out the view, and no danger 
of their movements being discovered by their enemies, 
they throw off their inactivity, and commence search- 
ing for a place to deposit their eggs, and woe to the 
stock that has not bees sufficient to drive them from 
the comb. Although their larvae has a skin that the 
bee cannot pierce with its sting, in most cases, it is 
not so with the moth, and of this fact they seem to 
be aware, for whenever a bee approaches they dart 
away with speed ten times greater than that of any 
bee, disposed to follow ! They enter the hive and 
dodge out in a moment, having either encountered a 
bee, or fear they may do so. Now it needs no argu- 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 295 

ment to prove that when all our stocks are well pro- 
tected, that it must be a poor chance to deposit eggs, 
on the combs of such hives, where their instinct has 
taught them is the proper place. But they must leave 
them somewhere. When driven from all the combs 
within, the next best place is the cracks and flaws 
about the hive, that are lined with propolis ; and the 
dust and chips that fall on the floor-board of a young 
swarm not full will be used. This last material is 
mostly wax, and answers very well instead of comb. 
The eggs will here hatch and the worms sometimes 
ascend to the combs ; hence the necessity of keeping 
the bottom- brushed off clean. It will prevent those 
that are on the bottom from going up ; also the bees 
from taking up any eggs, if this should happen to be 
the method. I can conceive of no other way by which 
they get among the combs of a populous stock ; where 
they are often detected, having been deposited by 
some means. A worm lodged in the comb, makes his 
way to the centre, and then eats a passage as he pro- 
ceeds, lining it with a shroud of silk, gradually enlarg- 
ing it, as he increases in size. (When combs are filled 
with honey, they work on the surface, eating only the 
sealing.) In very weak families this silken passage- 
way is left untouched, — but removed by all the 
stronger ones. I have found it asserted that " the 
worms would be all immediately destroyed by the 
bees, were it not for a kind of dread in touching them 
until compelled to by necessity." As the facts which 
led to this conclusion are not given, and I can find 
none confirming it, perhaps I shall be excused if I 



296 SUMMER. 

have no faith. On the contrary, I find to all appear- 
ance an instinctive antipathy to all such intruders, 
and are removed immediately when possessing the 
power. 

When a worm is in a comb filled with brood, its 
passage being in the centre, it is not at first discovered. 
The bees, to get it out, must bite away half the thick- 
ness, removing the brood in one or two rows of cells, 
sometimes for several inches. This will account for * 
so many immature bees found on the bottom-board at 
morning, in the spring; as well as in stocks and 
swarms but partially protected after the swarming 
season. 

INDICATIONS OF THEIR PRESENCE. 

Sometimes a half dozen young bees, nearly ma- 
ture, will be removed alive, all webbed together, 
fastened by legs, wings, &c. All their efforts for 
breaking loose prove unavailing. Also others that are 
separate may be seen running about with their wings 
mutilated, or part of their legs eaten off, or tied to- 
gether ! These generally are the first symptoms of 
worms in our stock at this season. Although unfavor- 
able, it might be worse. It shows that the bees are 
not discouraged yet, — that when finding the worms 
present, have sufficient energy left to make an effort to 
rid themselves of the nuisance. 

MANAGEMENT. 

Should the apiarian now give them a little assist- 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 297 

ance for a few days, they will soon be in a prosperous 
condition. The hive should be frequently raised, and 
everything brushed out clean. If it is a new swarm 
half full, that presents these indications, it should be 
turned over a few times, perhaps once a week, till the 
worms are mastered ; and the corners below the bees 
examined for the cocoons, that will very often be found 
there, and are easily detached and destroyed. In turn- 
ing over a hive part full, in warm weather, you should 
first observe the position of the combs, and let the 
edges rest against the side of the hive, otherwise they 
might bend over and break loose when the hive was 
again set up, (by simply making a pencil mark across 
the top in the direction of the combs, you may know 
any time after first looking). 

CARE IN TURNING OVER HIVES. 

When a hive is full of combs, the edges are usually 
attached sufficient to steady them, and it is of less 
consequence which way it is turned, yet in very warm 
weather the honey will run out of drone cells if per- 
pendicular. 

In very small swarms, hundreds of the young brood 
may be frequently seen with their heads out of the 
cells, endeavoring to escape, but are firmly held inside 
by these webs. I have known a few instances in 
such circumstances, where it appeared as if the bees 
had cut off the whole sheet of comb and let it drop 
thereby ridding themselves of all further trouble (or 
would be rid of it, if their owner only did his part by 
taking out what fell down.) 
13* 



298 SUMMER. 

OTHER SYMPTOMS OF WORMS. 

But when the bees make no effort to dislodge the 
enemy or his works in old stocks, the case is some- 
what desperate ! Instead of the foregoing symptoms* 
we must look for something entirely different. But 
few young bees will be found. In their place we may 
find the faeces of the worms dropped on the board. 
During winter and spring the bees, in biting off the 
covering of cells to get at the honey, drop chips closely 
resembling it. To detect the difference and distinguish 
one from the other requires a little close inspection. 
The color of the fasces varies with the comb on which 
they feed, from white to brown and black. The size 
of these grains will be in proportion to the worm — 
from a mere speck to nearly as large as a pin-head : 
shape cylindrical, with obtuse ends : length about 
twice its diameter. By the quantity we can judge of 
the number. If the hive is full of combs the lower 
ends may appear perfect, while the middle or upper 
part is sometimes a mat of webs ! 

Whenever our stocks have become reduced from 
over-swarming or other cause, this is the next effect 
in succession that we must expect. Here is another 
important reason that we know the actual condition 
of our bees at all times ; we can then detect the 
worms very soon after they commence. In some in- 
stances we might save the stock by breaking out most 
.of the combs, leaving just enough to be covered by 
the bees. When success attends this operation, it must 
be done before the worms have progressed to a tho- 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 299 

rough lodgment. When the stock is weak, and ap- 
pearances indicate the presence of many, it is gene- 
rally the safest, and will be the least trouble in the 
end, to drive out the bees at once and secure the honey 
and wax. The bees when put into a new hive may 
do a little, but if they should do nothing, it would be 
no worse. It cannot be as bad any way as to have 
left them in the old hive till the worms had destroyed 
all and matured a thousand or two moths in addition 
to those otherwise produced, thereby multiplying the 
chances of damage to other stocks a thousand -fold. It 
is probably remembered that I said when bees are 
removed from a hive in warm weather, if it was not 
infested with worms at the time, it soon would be, 
unless smoked with sulphur. 

WHEN THEY GROW LARGER THAN USUAL. 

In a hive thus left without bees to interfere, the 
worms will increase to one-half or two-thirds larger 
than where their right to the combs is disputed. In 
one case they often have their growth, and actually 
wind up in their cocoon when less than an inch in 
length : in the other they will quietly fatten till they 
are an inch and a half long and as large as a pipe-stem. 

TIME OF GROWTH. 

When first hatched from the egg^ it requires very 
close inspection to see them with the naked eye. The 
rapidity of growth depends on the temperature in 
which they are, as much or more than their good 
living. A few days in hot weather might develop the 



300 SUMMER. 

full-grown worm, while in a lower temperature it 
would require weeks and even months in some cases, 
perhaps from fall till spring 

TIME OF TRANSFORMATION. 

The worm, after spinning its cocoon, soon changes 
to a chrysalis, and remains inactive for several days, 
when it makes an opening in one end and crawls out. 
The time taken for this transformation is also governed 
by the temperature, although I think but few ever 
pass the winter in this state. It is a rare thing to find 
a moth before the end of May, and not many till the 
middle of June ; but after this time they are more 
numerous till the end of the season. 



It is pretty well demonstrated that the moth, its 
eggs, larvae and chrysalis cannot pass the winter with- 
out warmth of some kind to prevent their freezing to 
death. The following facts indicate this. I have taken 
all the bees out of a hive in the fall, and without dis- 
turbing the comb or honey, put it in a cold chamber 
where it could freeze thoroughly. In the following 
March bees were again introduced, and when not on a 
bench with some other stock that had worms, not a 
single instance in forty cases has ever produced a 
worm before the middle of June, or until the eggs of 
some moth matured in another hive has had time to 
hatch. I have sometimes, instead of putting bees in 
these in March, kept them till June for swarms, per- 
fectly free from any appearance of worms ! 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 301 

HOW THEY PASS THE WINTER. 

But it is altogether a different thing with oar hives 
in which bees are wintered ; they are seldom or never 
entirely exempt ! Perhaps it is impossible to winter 
bees without preserving some eggs of the moth or a 
few worms at the same time. The perfect moth per- 
haps never survives the winter ; the only place that 
the chrysalis would be safe, I think must be in the 
vicinity of the bees — and a good stock will never 
allow it there — but eggs, it would appear, are suffered 
to remain. In the fall, at the approach of cold weather, 
the bees are apt to leave the ends of the combs ex- 
posed ; the moth can now enter and deposit her eggs 
directly upon them ; these, together with what are car- 
ried in by means before suggested, are enough to pre- 
vent losing the breed. The warmth generated by the 
bees will keep these eggs from freezing and preserve 
their vitality. When warm weather approaches in 
the spring, those nearest the bees are probably hatched 
first, and commence depredations and are removed by 
the bees. As the bees increase and occupy more 
comb, more are warmed up and hatched. In this way, 
even a small family of bees will hatch, and get rid of 
all the eggs that happen to be in their combs, and not 
be destroyed. This is the time that the apiarian may 
be of service in destroying the worms, as the bees get 
them on the floor. 

STOCKS MORE LIABLE TO BE DESTROYED LAST OF SUMMER. 

But in July and August it is different in this re- 
spect ; a single moth may enter the hive when exposed, 



302 SUMMER. 

and deposit her whole burden of several hundred eggs, 
as in the other case, but the heat from the bees is now 
unnecessary to hatch them. The weather at chis sea- 
son will make any part of the hive warm enough to 
set her whole brood at work at once, and in three weeks 
all may be destroyed ! This, and the fact that more 
moths exist now than before, may account for the 
greater number of stocks being destroyed at this sea- 
son. Yet it is considered extremely bad management 
to allow honey or combs to be devoured by this dis- 
gusting creature. A little care to know the condition 
of the stocks is necessary to prevent their getting the 
start. These duties should be fully considered before 
we take the responsibility of the care of bees. 

WHEN BEES ARE SAFE. 

The only condition when we can rest and feel safe is 
when we know all our stocks are full of bees. Even the 
"moth-proof" hive containing combs will be scented 
out by the moth, when there are no bees to guard it. 
An argument to show that a moth can enter where a 
bee can go is unnecessary, and a little observation, I 
think, will prove that her eggs sometimes go where 
she is not allowed. 

MEANS TO DESTROY THEM. 

At this season, (July and August), it is a good plan 
to put a few pieces of old dry combs near the hives, in 
a box, or other place, as a decoy, where the moth may 
have access. She will deposit a great many of her eggs 
here, instead of the hive, and can be easily destroyed, 



ENEMIES OF BEES. 303 

As we cannot always have our bees in a situation to 
feel safe, it will be well to adopt some of the means 
recommended to diminish the number of moths. First 
destroy al] the worms that can be found at any time, 
particularly in spring ; second, all cocoons that can be 
got at. A great many worms can be enticed to web 
up, under a trap of elder, &c, when it is an easy mat- 
ter to dispatch them. Thirdly, destroy all the moths 
possible that can be seen about the hive. They arc 
very much like the flea, " when you put your finger 
on him he is not there;" a careful move is necessary 
to crush him at once, otherwise he darts away at the 
least disturbance. Probably the most expeditious 
mode is to make them drunk. 

MAKING THEM DRUNK, AND THEIR EXECUTION BY CHICKENS. 

Mix with water just enough molasses and vinegar 
to make it palatable; this is to be put in white saucers 
or other dishes, and set among the hives at night. Like 
nobler beings, if not wiser, when once they have tasted 
the fatal beverage, they seem to lose all power to leave 
the fascinating cup ; but give way to appetite and ex- 
citement till a fatal step plunges them into destruction ! 
The next morning finds them yet wallowing in filth, 
weak and feeble. Whether they would recover from 
the effects of their carousal if lifted out of the mire, 
and carefully nursed like other specimens of creation, 
I never ascertained. With but little trouble a chicken 
or two will learn to be on hand, and greedily devour 
every one. Hundreds are caught in this way, although 
many other kinds besides the bee-moth will be mixed 



304 SUMMER. 

with them. This drink may be used till dried up, 
occasionally adding a little water; perhaps it is better 
after fermenting. This recipe appeared some years 
ago in some paper ; I have forgotten where. Salt 
has been recommended to prevent the mischief of the 
worms, as well as a benefit to the bees. I used it 
pretty extensively for several years, as I thought 
without much benefit, and got tired. I then tried 
salting a part, and let the rest do entirely without, 
and found no difference in their prosperity. Since 
then, some ten years ago, I abandoned its use alto- 
gether, and succeed just as well. 



CHAPTER XX. 

MELTING DOWN OF COMBS. 

THE CAUSE. 

When extreme hot weather occurs immediately 
after the bees have been gathering from a plentiful 
harvest for two or three weeks, or even during the 
yield, the wax composing new combs is very liable to 
be softened, till they break loose from their fastenings 
and settle to the bottom. 



Sometimes the injury is trifling, only a piece or two 
slipping down ; at other times the whole contents fall 
in a confused and broken mass, the weight pressing 
out the honey, and besmearing the bees, which in that 
situation creep out, and away, from the hive in every 
direction. 



MELTING DOWN OF COMBS. 305 

I once had some new stocks ruined, and several 
others injured by hot weather, in this way, about the 
first of September, immediately after the flowers of 
buckwheat. The bees, or most of them, being covered 
with honey, together with what ran out of the hive, at 
once attracted bees from the others to the spot, which 
carried off the entire contents in a few hours. This 
was an uncommon occurrence ; I have known but one 
season in twenty -five years when it occurred after the 
failure of honey in the flowers. It usually happens 
during a plenteous yield, and then other stocks are 
not apt to be troublesome. 

FIRST INDICATIONS. 

The first indications of such an accident will be, 
the bees outside in clusters, when the hive is perhaps 
only half or two-thirds full, and the honey running out 
from the bottom, (this is when part has fallen.) 

PREVENTION. 

To prevent such occurrences as far as possible, ven- 
tilate by raising the hives on little blocks at the 
corners, and effectually protect them from the sun ; and 
if necessary, wet the outside with cold water. At the 
time of losing those before mentioned, I kept all the 
rest of the young swarms wet through the middle of 
the day, and I have no doubt but T saved several by 
this means. I had some trouble with such as had only 
a piece or two come down, and started just honey 
enough to attract other bees. It was not safe to close 
the hive to prevent the robbers, as this would have 
made the heat still greater, and been certain destruc- 
tion. 



306 SUMMER, 

The best protection I found, was to put around the 
bottom of the hive a few stems of asparagus ; this gave 
a free circulation of air, and at the same time, made it 
very difficult for the robbers to approach the entrance, 
without first creeping through this hedge and encoun- 
tering some bees that belonged to the hive ; which, 
with this assistance, were enabled to defend themselves 
till all wasting honey was taken up. 

When the hive is nearly full, and but one or two 
sheets come down, the lower edge will rest on the floor, 
and the other combs will keep it in an upright posi- 
tion, until the bees fasten it again. It is generally as 
well to leave such pieces as they are. If the hive is 
but half full or little more, and such pieces are not 
kept perpendicular by the remaining combs, they are 
apt to be broken and crushed badly, by falling so far ; 
and most of the honey will be wasted. To save this, it 
will be necessary to remove it, (unless a dish can be 
made to catch it). Be careful not to turn the hive on 
its side, and break the remaining combs, if any are left. 
Such combs as contain brood and but little honey, 
might be left for the brood to mature. Should the 
bees be able to take the honey or not waste much, it 
might be advisable to leave it, till the contents were 
taken up ; it would greatly assist in filling np. But 
these broken pieces should be removed before they 
interfere with the combs extending to the bottom. A 
part of the bees are generally destroyed, but the ma- 
jority will escape ; even such as are covered with 
honey, (if they are not crushed) will clean it off and 
soon be in working order, when others do not inter- 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 307 

fere officiously, assisting to remove it. A good yield 
of honey is the best protection against this disposition 
to pillage. After the first year combs become thicker^ 
and are not so liable to give way. 



CHAPTEE XXI. 

FALL MANAGEMENT. 
FIRST CARE. 

When the flowers fail at the end of the season, the 
first thing necessary is to ascertain which are the weak- 
est stocks, and all that cannot defend themselves should 
either be removed or reinforced. The strength of all 
stocks is pretty thoroughly tested within a . few days 
after a failure of honey. Should any be found with 
too few bees for defence, they are quite sure to be 
plundered. Hence the necessity of action in season, 
that we may secure the contents in advance of the 
robbers. 

STRONG STOCKS DISPOSED TO PLUNDER. 

Strong stocks, that during a yield have occupied 
every cell with brood and honey, when it fails, will 
soon have empty cells left by the young bees, hatch- 
ing. These empty cells, without honey to fill them, 
appear to be a source of much uneasiness. Although 
such hive and caps may be well stored, I have ever 
found them to be the worst in the apiary, much more 
disposed to plunder, than weaker ones with half the 
honey. As weak stocks cannot be bettered now, it is 
best to remove them at once, and put the temptation 



308 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

out of the way. Carelessness is but a sorry excuse, for 
letting bees establish this habit of dishonesty. Should 
any stocks be weak from disease, the consequences 
would be even more disastrous than bad habits ; the 
reasons why such impure honey should not go into 
thrifty stocks, have already been given. If we want 
the least possible trouble with our bees, none but the 
best should be selected for winter. But what consti- 
tutes a good stock, seems to be but partially under- 
stood ; if we judge from the number lost annually, too 
many are careless, or ignorant in the selection ; sup- 
posing, perhaps, because a stock has been good one 
winter and swarmed well, it must of course be right ; 
the mistake is often fatal. 

BEES CHANGEABLE. 

Bees are so changeable, especially in the summer 
and swarming season, that we can seldom be certain 
what they are, by what they have been. It is safest, 
therefore, to know what they are now. 

REQUISITES FOR GOOD STOCKS. 

The proper requisites for a good stock are a full 
hive of proper shape and size, (viz., 2,000 inches,) well 
stored with honey ; a large family of bees, and in a 
healthy condition, which must be ascertained by actual 
inspection. The age is not important till over eight 
years old. Stocks possessing these points, can be win- 
tered with but little trouble. But it cannot be expect- 
ed that all will be in this condition. Many bee-keep- 
ers will wish to increase their stocks and keep all that 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 309 

is practicable, by supplying any deficiency. I shall 
endeavor to make it appear profitable to do so, until 
bees enough are kept in the country, to get all the 
honey that is now wasted. 

All can understand why it is a loss to have bees eat 
honey part of the winter and then die — that the honey 
consumed might have been saved — that it makes no 
great difference to the bees whether they are killed in 
the fall or sacrificed in the winter. I am not an ad- 
vocate for fire and brimstone as the reward of all un- 
fortunate stocks, and shall recommend it only when 
its use will make it no worse. We will see how far 
it can be dispensed with. 

GREAT DISADVANTAGE OF KILLING THE BEES. 

Those rustic bee-keepers who are in the habit of 
making their hives very large, such as will hold from 
100 to 140 lbs., and killing the bees in the fall, and 
sending the honey to market, will probably continue 
the use of sulphur, unless we can convince them of 
the greater advantage of making the hive smaller 
and have fifty or eighty lbs. of this honey in boxes 
which will sell for more than can be realized for their 
larger hive full, and at the same time, save their bees 
for a stock-hive, making a better return in the long 
run, than one hundred dollars at interest. When 
hives are made the proper size, the honey will not be 
an object sufficient to pay for destroying the bees. 

SECTION OF COUNTRY MAY MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN WHAT 
POOR STOCKS NEED. 

The kind of requisite to be supplied to our deficient 



310 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

stocks, will probably depend on the section of country. 
Where the principal source is clover and basswood, it 
will fail partially, at least, before the end of warm 
'weather. 

Some poor or medium stocks will continue to rear 
brood too extensively for their means, and exhaust 
their winter stores in consequence ; such will need a 
supply of honey. But where great quantities of 
buckwheat are sown, cold weather follows almost im- 
mediately after this yield, and stops the breeding. 
Consequently a scarcity of bees is more frequent than 
honey. There are exceptions, of course ; I am speak- 
ing of these cases generally. My experience has 
mostly been in a section where this crop is raised, and 
will say that there is not more than one season in ten, 
but that the honey will be in proportion with the bees 
the first of September; that is, if there are bees enough, 
there will be honey enough. 

WHEN BEES ARE NEEDED. 

I have frequently had stocks with stores amply 
sufficient to carry a good family through the winter, 
and yet too few bees to last till January, or even to 
defend themselves from the robbers. Hence I am in 
the habit of supplying bees oftener than honey. 

I usually have some few hives with too little honey, 
as well as too few bees. Now it is very plain if the 
bees of one or more of this class were united with the 
first successfully, we should have a respectable family. 
I have made additions to stocks in this way that proved 
first-rate. 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 311 

CAUTION. 

Whenever we make additions in this manner, it 
would be well first to ascertain what was the cause of 
a scarcity of bees ; if it was over-swarming or loss of 
queen, it is well enough — but if from disease, reject 
them, unless the bees are to be transferred the next 
spring, and then, when too many cells are occupied 
with dead brood, as the bees cannot be successfully 
wintered. 

PRINCIPAL DIFFICULTY. 

The greatest difficulty in uniting two families or 
more in this manner, is where they have to be taken 
from different places in the same apiary ; where the 
locations have been marked. It is sufficiently shown 
that bees return to the old stand. 

To prevent these results, it has been recommended 
" to set 'an empty hive with some pieces of comb, 
fastened in the top in the place of the one removed, 
to catch the bees that go back to the old stand, and 
remove them at night for a few times, when they re- 
main." This should be done only when we cannot do 
better ; it is considerable trouble ; besides this, we do 
not always succeed to our satisfaction. 

HOW AVOIDED. 

I like the plan of bringing them a mile or more for 
this purpose, and have no after trouble about it. Two 
neighbors being that distance apart, each having 
stocks in this condition might exchange bees, making 
the benefit mutual. I have done so, and considered 
myself well paid for the trouble. But latterly I have 



312 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

had several apiaries away from home, and now manage 
without difficulty. 

ADVANTAGES OF MAKING ONE GOOD STOCK FROM TWO 
POOR ONES. 

This making one good stock out of two poor ones, 
cannot be too highly recommended; aside from its 
advantages, it relieves lis from all disagreeable feel- 
ings in taking life, that we can with but little trouble 
preserve. 

TWO FAMILIES TOGETHER WILL NOT CONSUME AS MUCH 
AS IF SEPARATE. 

Even when a stock already contains bees enough to 
make it safe for winter, another of the same number 
of bees may be added, and the consumption of honey 
will not he five lbs. more than one swarm would consume 
alone. If they should be wintered in the cold, the 
difference might not be one pound. Why more bees 
do not consume a proportionate quantity of honey, 
(which the experience of others as well as myself 
has thoroughly proved), is a mystery, unless the 
greater number of bees creates more animal heat, and 
being warm, eat less, is a solution, (which if it is, is a 
strong reason for keeping bees warm in winter.) 

AN EXPERIMENT. 

Notwithstanding all this, I cannot recommend mak- 
ing a good stock better by adding the bees from another 
good one as a source of profit. I tried it a few times. 
I had purchased some large hives for market, and 
wished to dispose of the bees without sulphur, and 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 313 

try the experiment of uniting two or more. The 
next spring when they commenced work such double 
stocks promised much ; but when the swarming season 
arrived, the single swarms, such as were good and had 
just about bees enough, were in the best condition, in 
ordinary seasons. Whether this was owing to the 
circumstance of there being already bees enough that 
were beginning to crowd and interfere with each 
other's labors, and less brood raised in consequence, 
or to some other reason, I cannot say. I have often 
noticed, (as others have), that stocks which have cast 
no swarms, are no better the next spring than others. 
The same cause might* operate in both cases. There- 
fore it would appear unnecessary to unite two or more 
good swarms, unless it is to spare our feelings in de- 
stroying the bees. The two extremes may generally 
be avoided, and not have too many or too few bees. 

SEASON FOR OPERATING. 

The season for operating is, generally, when all the 
brood has matured and left the cells. The exceptions 
are when there are not bees enough to protect the 
stores ; it may then be necessary, immediately after 
the failure of honey. 

Col. H. K. Oliver, of Salem, Mass., is said to be the 
inventor of the fumigator, an instrument to burn 
fungus {puff-ball). By the aid of this the smoke is 
blown in the hive, paralyzing the bees in a few 
minutes; when they fall to the bottom, apparently 
dead, but will recover in a few minutes, on receiving 
fresh air. 

14 



314 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 



THE FUMIGATOR. 



I am indebted to a communication from J. M. 
Weeks, published on page 151 of the Cultivator for 
1841, for this method. The description of the fumi- 
gator that I constructed will vary a trifle from his, 
but will retain the principle. I obtained a tin tube 
four inches long, and two in diameter. Next, I made 
a stopper of soft wood, three inches long, to exactly 
fit one end of the tube when driven in half an inch, 
and secured it by little nails driven through the tin. 
Through the centre of this stopper I made a hole 
one-fourth of an inch in diameter. To prevent this 
hole filling up, the end in the tube was covered over 
with wire cloth, made a little convex. The end of 
this stopper was cut down to about half an inch, taper- 
ing it from the tin. For the other end a similar piece 
of wood is fitted, though a little longer, and not to be 
fastened, as it must be taken out for every operation. 
The outer end of this is cut down into a shape to be 
taken into the mouth, or attached to the pipe of a 
bellows. (I fitted them in the turning lathe, but have 
seen them fixed very nicely without.) It could all be 
made of tin ; but then it is necessary to use solder, 
which is liable to melt and cause leaks. 




FUMIGATOR. 



The puff-balls must not be too much injured by 



TALL MANAGEMENT. 815 

remaining in the weather, and should be picked, if 
possible, just before they are ripe and burst open. 
When not thoroughly dry, put them in the oven after 
the bread is out." When used, the cuticle or rind 
must be carefully removed ; ignite it by a lamp or 
coal (it will not blaze in burning), blow it, and get it 
thoroughly started, before putting it in the tube. Put 
in the stopper, and blow through it ; if it smokes well, 
you are ready to proceed. When it does not burn 
freely, unstop and shake it out. The dry air is much 
better than moist breath at the commencement. 

DIRECTIONS FOR UNITING TWO FAMILIES. 

The hive to receive the bees is inverted, the other set 
over it right end up, all crevices stopped to prevent the 
escape of the smoke. Now insert the end of the f ami gator 
into a hole in the side of the hive (which if not made 
before will need to be now) ; blow into the other end, 
this forces the smoke into the hive ; in two minutes 
you may hear the bees begin to fall. Both hives 
should be smoked ; the upper one the most, as we 
want all the bees out of that. The other only needs 
enough to make the scent of the bees similar to those 
introduced. At the end of eight or ten minutes, the 
upper hive may be raised, and any bees sticking be- 
tween the combs brushed down with a quill. The 
two queens in this case are of course together ; one 
will be destroyed, and no difficulty arise. But if 
either of them is a young one, and you have been 
convinced by some "bee-doctor" that such are much 
more prolific, and happen to know which hive con 



816 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

tains her, and wish that one to be preserved, yon can 
do "so by varying the process a little. Instead of in- 
verting one hive, set them both on a cloth right side 
np, and smoke the bees ; the queens are easily found, 
while they are all paralyzed ; then put the bees all to- 
gether. The hive should now have a thin cloth tied 
over the bottom, to prevent the escape of the bees. 
Before they are fully recovered, they seem rather be- 
wildered, and some of them get away. Set the hive 
right end up, and raise it an inch ; the bees drop on 
the cloth, and fresh air passing under soon revives 
them. In from twelve to twenty-four hours, they 
may be let out. 

Families put together in this way will seldom quar- 
rel (not more than one in twenty), but remain to- 
gether, defending themselves against intruders as one 
swarm. 

I once had a stock nearly destitute of bees, with 
abundant stores for wintering a large family. I had 
let it down on the floor-board, and was on the look- 
out for an attack. The other bees soon discovered 
this weakness, and commenced carrying off the honey. 
I had brought home a swarm to reinforce them only 
the day before, and immediately united them by 
means of the fumigator. The next morning I let 
them out, allowing them to issue only at the hole in 
the side of the hive. It was amusing to witness the 
apparent consternation of the robbers that were on 
hand for more plunder; they had been there only the 
day before, and had been allowed to enter and depart 
without even being questioned. But lo ! a change 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 317 

had come over the matter. Instead of open doors 
and a free passage, the first bee that touched the hive 
was seized and very rudely handled, and at last dis- 
patched with a sting. A few others receiving similar 
treatment, they began to exercise a little caution, then 
tried to find admission on the back side, and other 
places ; and attempted one or two others on either 
side, perhaps thinking they were mistaken in the 
hive ; but these being strong, repulsed them, and they 
finally gave it up. I mention this to show how easy 
it is, with a little care, to prevent robberies at this 
season. Too many complaints are made about bees 
being robbed ; it is very disagreeable. Suppose that 
none ivere plundered through carelessness; this complaint 
would soon be a rare thing. 

UNITING WITH TOBACCO SMOKE. 

By the use of tobacco smoke, bees may be united 
with nearly the same success. First, smoke the two 
to be united, thoroughly; disturb them and smoke 
again, that all may become partially drunk, and ac- 
quire the same scent. Then invert both hives, and 
with your pruning tools, cut the combs down on the 
sides of the hive, and across the top, and take out one 
3omb at a time with the bees on it, and brush them 
,vith a quill into the other hive ; they immediately go 
lown among the combs, without once thinking it ne- 
cessary to sting you. When done, the bees are to be 
confined, the same as in the other method. I do not 
like this method as well as the first, and do not resort 
to it when I can get the puff-ball. The bees are more 



318 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

liable to disagree, and it compels me to take out the 
comb, which I do not always like to do at the time. 
To avoid it, I have tried to drive them, but when the 
hive is only part full of combs, or contains but few 
bees, it is a slow job ; and more so in cool weather. 

CONDITION OF STOCKS IN 1851. 

The latter part of the summer of 1851 was very 
dry and cold ; the yield of buckwheat honey was not 
a tenth of the usual quantity ; the consequence was, 
that none but early swarms had sufficient honey for 
winter ; twenty-five pounds is required to make it 
safe in this section. I had over thirty young swarms 
with less than that quantity. Feeding for winter I 
avoid when I can ; they would not winter as they 
were ; and yet I made the most of them good stocks 
for the next summer by the following plan. 

HOW THEY WERE MANAGED. 

I had about twenty old stocks with diseased brood, 
and but few bees, yet honey enough. Now this honey 
appears healthy enough for the old bees, and fatal 
only to the young brood. 

I transferred the bees of these new swarms to the 
old stocks with black comb and diseased brood. The 
bees were thus wintered on honey of but little account 
any way, and all that was in the others, new and 
healthy, was saved. These new hives were set in a 
cold dry place for winter; right end up, to prevent 
much of the honey from dripping out of the cells; 
some will leak then, but not as much as when the hive 
is bottom up. Honey that runs out, when the hive is 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 319 

bottom up, will soak into the wood at the base of the 
combs ; this will have a tendency to loosen the fasten- 
ings, and render them liable to fall, &c. 

The next March the bees were again transferred 
from the old to the new hives. My method is as fol- 
lows: As the combs in the hive to receive the bees 
are rather cold, I set them by the fire, or in a warm 
room, for several hours previous. I take a warm 
room before a window, and as some few bees fly off, 
they will collect there. The new hive is turned bot- 
tom up on the floor ; the old one on a bench by the 
side of it, having smoked the bees to keep them quiet. 
One comb at a time is taken out, and the bees brushed 
into the new hive ; (a little smoke will keep them 
there). When through, I get the few on the window, 
and tie over a cloth to confine them, and keep them 
warm for a few hours longer. Paralyzing with puff- 
ball will answer instead, but they do not always all 
fall out of the combs when the hive is filled to the 
bottom, and it is possible that if a few were left, the 
queen might be one. Also a very few bees are worth 
saving at this season, and the combs might have to 
be broken out at last, for this purpose. 

When a good-sized family is put in a hive contain • 
ing fifteen or twenty pounds of honey, and near half 
full of clean new comb, they are about as sure to fill 
up and cast a swarm, as another that is full and has 
wintered a swarm. 

CAUSE OF THEIR SUPERIOR THRIFT. 

One cause of superior thrift may be found in the 



320 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

circumstance, that all moth eggs and worms are frozen 
to death, and the bees are not troubled with a single 
worm before June. ISTo young bees have to be re- 
moved to work them out. Nearly every young bee 
that is fed and sealed up, comes forth perfect, and of 
course makes a vast difference in the increase. 

SWARMS PARTLY FILLED PAY BETTER THAN TO CUT OUT THE 
HONEY. 

Any person wishing to increase his stocks to the 
utmost, will find this plan of saving all part- filled 
hives, of much more advantage than to break it out 
for sale. Suppose you have an old stock that needs 
pruning, and have neglected it, or it has refused to 
swarm, and give you a chance without destroying too 
much brood. You can let it be, and put on the 
boxes; perhaps get twenty-five pounds of cap honey; 
and then winter the bees as described, and in the 
spring transfer them to the new combs. Again, if 
there is no stocks to be transferred in the spring, keep 
them till the swarming season. If a swarm put into 
an empty hive would just fill it, the same swarm put 
into one containing fifteen pounds of honey, it seems 
plain, would make that number of pounds in boxes. 
The advantage is, in the comparative value of box or 
cap honey over that stored in the hive ; the difference 
being from thirty to a hundred per cent. 

ADVANTAGES IN TRANSFERRING. 

I would now like to show the advantages I derived 
in transferring the twenty swarms before mentioned 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 321 

We will suppose that each family, from the first of 
October till April, consumed twenty pounds of honey. 
That in the centre combs, where there is most bee- 
bread, &c, is eaten first ; if any is left, it is at the top 
and outside. If I had attempted to take out and 
strain this twenty pounds in the fall, it would have 
been so mixed with dead brood, and bee-bread, that I 
probably should have rejected most of it. The re- 
mainder, when strained, might have been five pounds, 
not more. The market price for it is about ten cents 
per pound ; amount fifty cents. We will say the new 
hive kept through the winter to receive the bees in 
the spring contained fifteen pounds ; this would also 
have averaged about ten cents per pound, amount- 
ing to $1.50. All that a stock of this kind costs 
me appears to be just $2.00, and worth at least 
$5.00. The advantage in changing twenty would be 
$60.00. The labor of transferring will offset against 
the trouble of straining, preparing, and the expense 
of getting the honey to market. 

ANOTHER METHOD OF UNITING TWO FAMILIES. 

I have occasionally adopted yet another method of 
making a good stock from two poor ones, which the 
reader may prefer. When all your old stocks have 
been reinforced that need it, and you still have some 
swarms with too few bees and too little honey for safety 
as they are, two or more can be united. The fact, which 
has been thoroughly tested, that two families of bees, 
when united and wintered in one hive, will consume 
but little, if any more, than each of them would sepa- 
14* 



322 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

rately, is a very important principle in this matter. 
If each family should have fifteen pounds of honey, 
they would consume it all, and probably starve at last, 
after eating thirty pounds. But if the contents of 
both were in one hive, it would be amply sufficient, 
and some to spare in the spring. 

UNITING COMB AND HONEY AS WELL AS BEES. 

The process of uniting them is simple. Smoke 
both the stocks or swarms thoroughly, and turn them 
over. Choose the one with the straightest combs, or 
the one nearest full, to receive the contents of the 
other ; trim off the points of the combs to make them 
square across, and this one is ready ; remove the sticks 
from the other, and with your tools take out the 
combs with the bees on as before directed, one at a 
time, and carefully set them on the edges of the other ; 
if the shape will admit it, let the edges match ; if not, 
let them cross. Small bits of wood or rolls of paper 
will be needed between them, to preserve the right 
distance. When both hives are of one size, the trans- 
ferred combs will exactly fit, if you are careful to 
place them as they were before. You will now want 
to know, " what is to prevent these combs from falling 
out when the hive is turned over ? " This hive is to 
remain bottom up in some dark place for some time, 
or till spring. (See method of wintering bees.) The 
bees will immediately join these combs fast ; the hive 
being inverted, the honey in these combs will be con- 
sumed first ; and when the hive is again set out in 
spring, it will be a rare occurrence for any pieces to 



FALL MANAGEMENT. 323 

drop out. Should any pieces project beyond the bot- 
tom of the hive, they may be trimmed off even after 
they are fastened, any time before setting out. An 
additional cross-stick may pass under the bottom of 
the combs, to assist in holding them, if you desire. 
You will probably never discover any difference in 
the subsequent prosperity in consequence of the join- 
ing or crossing of the combs in the middle. I have 
had them in this way, when they were among the 
most prosperous of my stocks. As this operation is to 
be put off till November, it will be an advantage in an- 
other way ; that is, families of the same apiary can be 
united, and will mostly forget the old location by spring, 
and no difficulty arise by returning to the old stand, etc. 

WHEN FEEDING SHOULD BE DONE FOR STOCK HIVES. 

In some sections of country the honey is more fre- 
quently wanting than bees, or comb, and some seasons 
in this ; in such cases, it will be found an advantage 
to feed, until enough is stored for winter. This should 
be done in September or October. But if they lack 
comb as well as honey, and you wish to try feeding, 
(which I seldom do lately,) it should be done if pos- 
sible in warm weather, as they cannot work combs to 
advantage in the cold. While feeding bees, it requires 
a great deal of caution to prevent others from scenting 
the honey, and their contentions about it. The safest 
place is on the top of the hive, with a good cap over ; 
but they will not work quite as fast, especially if the 
weather is cool. The next best place is under the 
bottom in the manner described in Chapter IX. 



824 FALL MANAGEMENT. 

Setting out honey to feed all at once, I condemn 
wholly. These disadvantages attend it : strong stocks 
that do not need an ounce, will get two or three 
pounds, while those weaker ones, needing it more, 
will not get one. Nearly every stock, in a short time, 
will be righting. Probably the first bee that comes 
home with a load, will inform a number of its fellows 
that a treasure is close at hand. A number will sally 
out immediately, without waiting for particular direc- 
tions for finding it ; and mistaking other hives for the 
place, alight there, are seized and probably dispatched. 
As soon as the honey given them is gone, the tumult 
is greatly increased, and great numbers are destroyed. 
If any of your neighbors near you have bees, you must 
expect to divide with them. 

If the honey to be fed is in the comb, and your 
hives are not full, and they are to be wintered in the 
house, bottom up, it may be done at any time through 
the winter, merely by laying pieces with honey on 
those in the hive. The bees readily remove the con- 
tents into their own combs; when empty, remove 
them and put in more until they have a full supply. 
They will join such pieces of comb to their own; yet 
there will be no harm in breaking them loose. The 
principal objection to feeding in this way, will be 
found in the tendency to make them uneasy and dis- 
posed to leave the hive, when we want them as quiet 
as possible. A thin muslin cloth, or other means, will 
be necessary to confine them to the hive. 

I have now given directions to avoid killing any 
jlamily of bees worth saving, if we choose. 



WINTERING BEES. 325 

When such as need feeding have been fed, and all 
weak families made strong by additions, etc., but little 
more fall work is needed in the apiary. It is only 
when you have weak stocks, unfit to winter, that it is 
necessary to be on the lookout every warm day to 
prevent pillage. 



CHAPTEE XXII. 

WINTERING BEES. 

There is almost as much diversity of opinion w?\h 
respect to wintering bees as in the construction of 
hives, and about as difficult to reconcile. 

DIFFERENT METHODS HAVE BEEN ADOPTED. 

One will tell you to keep them warm, another to 
keep them cold ; to keep them in the sun, out of the 
sun, bury them in the ground, put them in the cellar, 
the chamber, wood-house, and other places, and no 
places at all ; that is, to let them remain as they are, 
without any attention. Here are plans enough to 
drive the inexperienced into despair. Yet I have no 
doubt but that bees have been sometimes successfully 
wintered by all these contradictory methods. That 
some of these methods are superior to others, needs 
no argument to illustrate. But what method is best, 
is our province to inquire. Let us endeavor to ex- 
amine the subject without prejudice to bias our judg- 
ment. 



326 WINTEKING BEES. 

THE IDEA OF BEES NOT FREEZING HAS LED TO ERRORS IN PRAC- 
TICE. 

By close observation we shall probably discover 
that the assertion so often repeated, that bees have 
never frozen except when without honey, has led to 
an erroneous practice. 

APPEARANCE OF BEES IN COLD WEATHER. 

We will first endeavor to examine the condition of 
a stock left to nature, without any care, and see if it 
affords any hints for our guidance, when to assist and 
protect with artificial means. 

Warmth being the first requisite, a family of bees 
at the approach of cold weather crowd together in a 
globular form, into a compass corresponding to the 
degree of cold ; when at zero it is much less than at 
thirty above. Those on the outside of this cluster are 
somewhat stiffened with cold ; while those inside are 
as brisk and lively as in summer. In severe weather 
every possible space within their circle is occupied ; 
even each cell not containing pollen or honey will 
hold a bee. Suppose this cluster is sufficiently com- 
pact for mutual warmth, with the mercury at 40, and 
a sudden change brings it down to zero, in a few 
hours, this body of bees, like most other things, speed- 
ily contracts by the cold. The bees on the outside, 
being already chilled, a portion of them that does not 
keep up with the shrinking mass, is left exposed at a 
distance from their fellows, and receive but little ben- 
efit of the warmth generated there ; they part with 
their vitality, and are lost. 



WINTEKING BEES. 327 

HOW PART OF THE SWARM IS FROZEN. 

A good family will form a ball or circle about eight 
inches in diameter, generally about equal every way, 
and must occupy the spaces between four or five 
combs. As combs must separate them into divisions, 
the two outer ones are smallest, and most exposed of 
any ; these are often found frozen to death in severe 
weather. Should evidence be wanting from other 
sources to show that bees will freeze to death, the 
above would seem to furnish it. It is said, " that in 
Poland bees are wintered in a semi-torpid state, in 
consequence of the extreme cold." We must either 
doubt the correctness of this relation, or suppose the 
bee of that country a different insect from ours — a 
kind of semi-wasp, that will live through the winter, 
and eat little or nothing. The reader can have no 
difficulty in deciding which is the most probable, 
whether bees are bees throughout the world, endowed 
with the same faculties and instincts, or that the facts 
as they are, are not precisely given, especially when 
we see what our own apiarians tell us about their 
aever freezing. 

Here I might use strong language in contradiction ; 
but as I am aware that such a course is not always the 
most convincing, I prefer the test of close observation. 
If bees will freeze, it is important to know it, and in 
what circumstances. 

HOW A SMALL FAMILY MAY ALL FREEZE. 

Suppose a quart of bees were put in a box or hive 
where all the cells wore filled and lengthened out with 



328 WINTERING BEES. 

honey ; the spaces between the combs would be about 
one -fourth of an inch — only room for one thickness of 
bees to spread through. The combs would perhaps 
be one and a half or two inches thick. All the warmth 
that could be generated then, would be by one course 
or layer of bees, an inch and a half apart. Although 
every bee would have food in abundance without 
changing its position, the first turn of severe weather 
would probably destroy the whole. This, it may be 
said, "is an unnatural situation." I will admit that it 
is; the case was only supposed for illustration. I 
know that their winter quarters are among the brood 
combs, where the hatching of the brood leaves most 
of the cells empty ; and the space between the combs 
is half an inch ; a wise and beautiful arrangement ; as 
ten times the number of bees can pack themselves 
within a circle of six inches, as can in the other case ; 
and in consequence the same number of bees can se- 
cure much more animal heat, and endure the cold 
much better ; but a small family, even here, will often 
be found frozen, as well as starving. 

FROST AND ICE SOMETIMES SMOTHER BEES. 

Besides freezing, there are other facts to be observed 
in stocks which stand in the cold. If we examine the 
interior of a hive containing a medium-sized swarm, 
on the first severely cold morning, except in the im- 
mediate vicinity of the bees, we shall find the combs 
and sides of the hive covered with a white frost. In 
the middle of the day, or as soon as the temperature 
is slightly raised, this begins to melt,- — first next tc 
the bees, then at the sides. A succession of cold 



WINTERING BEES. 329 

nights will prevent the evaporation of this moisture ; 
and this process of freezing and thawing, at the end of 
a week or two, will form icicles sometimes as large as 
a man's finger, attached to the combs and the sides of 
the hive. When the bottom of the hive is close to the 
floor, it forms a sealing around the edges, perfectly 
air-tight, and your bees are smothered. I have fre- 
quently heard bee-keepers say in these cases, " The 
storm blew in, and formed ice all round the bottom, 
and froze my bees to death." Others that have had 
their bees in a cold room, finding them thus, " could 
not see how the water and ice could get there any way ; 
were quite sure it was not there when carried in," &c. 
Probably they never dreamed of its being accounted 
for philosophically, and to analyze anything pertain- 
ing to bees would be rather small business. But what 
way can it be accounted for ? 

FROST AND ICE IN A HIVE ACCOUNTED FOR. 

Physiologists tell us " that innumerable pores in the 
cuticle of the human body are continually throwing 
off waste or worn out matter ; that every exhalation of 
air carries with it a portion of water from the system, 
in warm weather unperceived, but will be condensed 
into particles large enough to be seen in a cold atmo- 
sphere." Now, if analogy be allowed here, we will 
say the bee throws of waste matter and water in the 
same way. Its food being liquid, nearly all will be 
exhaled — in moderate weather it will pass off, but in 
the cold it is condensed — the particles lodge on the 
5ombs in form of frost, and accumulate as long as 



330 WINTERING BEES. 

the weather is very severe, a portion melting in the 
day, and freezing again at night. 

THE EFFECT OF ICE OR FROST ON BEES AND COMB. 

When the bees are not smothered, this water in the 
hive is the source of other mischief. The combs are 
quite certain to mould. The water mould or dampness 
on the honey renders it thin, and unhealthy for the bees, 
causing dysentery, or the accumulation of faeces that 
they are unable to retain. When the hive contains a 
very large family, or a very small one, there will be 
less frost on the combs, — the animal heat of the first 
will drive it off; in the latter there will be but little 
exhaled. 

FROST MAY CAUSE STARVATION. 

This frost is frequently the cause of medium or 
small families starving in cold weather, even when 
there is plenty of honey in the hive. Suppose all the 
honey in the immediate vicinity of the cluster of bees 
is exhausted, and the combs in every direction from 
them are covered with frost ; if a bee should leave 
the mass and venture among them for a supply, 
its fate would be as certain as starvation. And with- 
out timely intervention of warmer weather, they must 
perish ! 

OTHER DIFFICULTIES. 

Should they escape starving, there is another diffi- 
culty often attending them in continued cold weather. 
I said that small families exhaled but little. Let us 
see if we can explain the effect. 



WINTERING BEES. 331 

There is not sufficient animal heat generated to ex- 
hale the aqueous portion of their food. The philoso- 
phy that explains why a man in warm blood and in 
profuse perspiration would throw off or exhale more 
moisture than in a quiet state, will illustrate this. The 
bees in these circumstances must retain the water with 
the excrementitious part, which soon distends their 
bodies to the utmost, rendering them unable to endure 
it long. Their cleanly habits, that ordinarily save the 
combs from being soiled, is not a sure protection now, 
and they are compelled to leave the mass very often 
in the severest weather, to expel this unnatural accu- 
mulation of faeces. It is frequently discharged even 
before leaving the comb, but most of it at the en- 
trance ; also some scattered on the front side of the 
hive, and a short distance from it. In a moderately 
warm day, more bees will issue from a hive in this 
condition than from others ; it appears that a part of 
them are unable to discharge their burden — their 
weight prevents their flying — they get down and are 
lost. When cold weather is too long continued, they 
cannot wait for warm days to leave, but continue to 
come out at any time ; and not one of such can then 
return. The cluster inside the hive is thus reduced 
in numbers till they are unable to generate heat suffi- 
cient to keep from freezing. With the indications 
attendant upon such losses, my own observation has 
made me somewhat familiar, as the following con- 
versation will illustrate. 



332 WINTERING BEES. 

FURTHER ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A neighbor who wished to purchase some stock 
hives in the fall, requested my assistance in selecting 
them. "We applied to a perfect stranger; his bees 
had passed the previous winter in the open air. I 
found on looking among them that he had lost some 
of them from this cause, as the excrement was yet 
about the entrance of one old weather-beaten hive, 
that was now occupied by a young swarm, and was 
about half filled with combs. 

I saw at once what had been the matter, and felt 
quite confident that I could give its owner a correct 
history of it. "Sir," said I, "you have been un 
fortunate with the bees that were in this hive last 
winter ; I think I can give you some particulars re- 
specting it." 

"Ah, what makes you think so? I would like to 
hear you guess ; to encourage you, I will admit that 
there has been something rather peculiar about it." 

" One year ago you considered that a good stock- 
hive ; it was well filled with honey, a good family of 
bees, and two or three years old or more. You had 
as much confidence in its wintering as any other ; . but 
during the cold weather, somehow, the bees unac- 
countably disappeared, leaving but a very few, and 
they were found frozen to death. You discovered it 
towards spring, on a warm day. When you removed 
the combs, you probably noticed a great many spots 
of excrement deposited on them, as well as on the 
sides of the hive, particularly near the entrance. 
Also one-half or more of the breeding cells contained 



WINTERING BEES. 333 

dead brood, in a putrid state ; and this summer you 
have used the old hive for a new swarm." 

11 You are right, sir, in every particular. Now, I 
would like to know what gave you the idea of my 
losing the bees in that hive ? I can see nothing pe- 
culiar about that old hive, more than this one," point- 
ing to another that also contained a new swarm. 
H You will greatly oblige me if you will point out the 
signs particularly." 

"I will do so with pleasure" (feeling quite willing 
to give him the impression that I was "posted up" on 
this subject, notwithstanding it savored strongly of 
boasting). 

I then directed his attention to the entrance in the 
side of the hive, where the bees had discharged their 
feces, on the moment, they issued, until it was near 
the eighth of an inch thick, and two or three inches 
broad; that yet remained, and just began to cleave 
off. " You see this brown substance around this hole 
in the hive ?" 

" Yes, it is bee-glue {propolis) ; it is very common 
on old hives." 

" I think not ; if you will examine it closely, you 
will perceive it is not so hard and bright ; it already 
begins to crumble; bee-glue is not affected by the 
weather for years." 

"Just so, but what is it, and what has that to do 
with your guess-work ?" 

" It is the excrement of the bees. In consequence 
of a great many cells containing dead brood, which 
the bees could not enter, they were unable to pack 



334 WINTERING BEES. 

themselves close enough to secure sufficient animal 
heat to exhale or drive off the water in their food, it 
was therefore retained in their bodies till they were 
distended beyond endurance — they were unable to 
wait for a warm day — necessity compelled them to 
issue daily during the coldest weather, discharging 
their fasces the moment of passing the entrance, and 
part of them before. They were immediately chilled, 
and could not return; the quantity left about this 
entrance shows that a great many must have come 
out. That they came out in cold weather is proved 
by its being left on the hive, because in warm weather 
they leave the hive for this purpose." 

" This is a new idea ; at present it seems to be cor- 
rect ; I will think it over. But how did you know 
that it was not a new swarm ; that it was well filled ?" 

"When looking under it just now, I saw that combs 
of a dark color had been attached to the sides near the 
bottom, below where those are at present ; this indi- 
cates that it had been full, and the dark color that it 
was not new. Also, a swarm early and large enough 
to fill such a hive the first season, would not be very 
likely to be affected by the cold in this way." 

"Why not? I think this hive was crowded with 
bees as much as any of my new swarms." 

" I have no doubt they appeared so ; but we are 
very liable to be deceived in such cases, by the dead 
brood in the combs. A moderate-sized family in such 
a hive will make more show than some larger ones 
that have empty cells to creep into, and can pack 
closer." 



WINTERING BEES. 335 

M But how did you know about the dead brood ?" 

" Because old stocks are thus often reduced and 
lost." 

" What were the indications of its being filled with 
honey?" 

" Combs are seldom attached to the side of the hive 
farther down than they are filled with honey. In this 
hive the combs had been attached to the bottom, con- 
sequently must have been full. Another thing, unless 
the family is very much reduced, the hive is generally 
well stored, even when diseased." 

" Why did you suppose it was near spring before I 
discovered it?" 

" I took the chances of guessing. The majority of 
bee-keepers, you know, are rather careless, and when 
they have fixed their bees for winter, seldom give 
them much more attention, till they begin to fly out 
in the spring." 

" But what should I have done had I discovered 
the bees coming out ?" 

" As it was affected with dead brood, it was but 
little use to do anything; you would have lost it 
eventually. But if it had been a stock otherwise 
healthy, and was affected in this way only because it- 
was a small family, or the severity of the weather, 
you could have taken it to a warm room, and turned 
it bottom up; the animal heat would then convert 
the most of the water contained in their food into 
vapor ; that would rise from the hive, and the bees 
could retain the excrementitious portion without diffi- 
culty till spring." 



336 WINTERING BEES. 

" I suppose you must get along without losing many 
through the winter, if I may judge by your confident 
explanations." 

" I can assure you I have but little fear on this head. 
If I can have the privilege of selecting proper stocky 
I will engage not to lose one in a hundred." 

" How do you manage ? I wou,ld be glad to obtain 
a method in which I could feel as perfectly safe as 
you appear to." 

" The first important requisite is to have all good 
ones to start with. Enough weak families are united 
together till they are strong, or some other disposition 
made of them." I then gave him an outline of my 
method of wintering, which I can confidently recom- 
mend to the reader. 

ACCUMULATION OF FAECES DESCRIBED BY SOME WRITERS AS 
A DISEASE. 

This accumulation of faeces is considered by many 
writers as a disease — a kind of dysentery. It is de- 
scribed as affecting them towards spring, and several 
remedies are given. Now if what I have been de- 
scribing is not the dysentery, why I must think I 
never had a case of it ; but I shall still persist in 
guessing it to be the same, and suppose that inatten- 
tion with many must be the reason that it is not 
discovered in cold weather, at the time that it takes 
place. Some stocks may be badly affected, yet not 
lost entirely, when moderate weather will stop its 
progress. When a remedy is applied in the spring, 
long after the cause ceases to operate, it would be 



WLNTEKING BEES. 337 

singular if it was not effectual. I have no doubt but 
some have taken the natural discharge of faeces, that 
always takes place in spring when the bees leave the 
hive, for a disease. Others, when looking for a cause 
for diseased brood, and found the combs and hive 
somewhat besmeared, have assigned this as sufficient; 
but according to my view, have reversed it, giving 
the effect before the cause. 

THE AUTHOR'S REMEDY. 

For a time, I supposed that this moisture on the 
combs gradually mixed with the honey, making it 
thin, and that the bees eating so much water with 
their food, would affect them as described. Some ex- 
periments that followed, induced me to assign cold as 
the cause, as I always found, when I put them where 
it was sufficiently warm, that an immediate cure was 
the result, or at least, it enabled them to retain their 
faeces till set out in the spring. 

BURYING- BEES. 

Burying bees in the earth below the frost, has been 
recommended as a superior method of wintering, for 
small families. I have known it confidently asserted, 
that they would lose nothing in weight, and no bees 
would die. I found, in testing it, that a medium quan- 
tity of honey sufficed, and but very few were lost, per- 
haps less than by any other method. Yet the combs 
were mouldy, and unfit for further use. There was 
no escape for the vapor and dampness of the earth, 
15 



338 WINTERING BEES. 

This did not satisfy me ; it only cured l one disease by 
instituting another." I saved the bees, (and perhaps 
some honey), but the combs were spoiled. 

EXPERIMENTS OF THE AUTHOR TO GET RID OF THE FROST. 

I wished to keep them warm, and save the bees as 
well as honey, and at the same time, get rid of the 
moisture. I found that a large family expelled it 
much better than small ones ; and if all were put to- 
gether in a close room, the animal heat from a large 
number combined, would be an advantage to the weak 
ones, at least, — this proved of some benefit. Yet I 
found on the sides of a glass hive, that large drops of 
water would stand for weeks. 

SUCCESS IN THIS MATTER. 

The following suggestion then came to my relief. 
If this hive was bottom up, what would . prevent all 
this vapor as it arises from the bees from passing off? 
(It always rises when warm, if permitted.) The hive 
was inverted ; in a few hours the glass was dry. 

This was so perfectly simple, that I wondered I had 
not thought of it before, and wondered still more that 
some one of the many intelligent apiarians had never 
discovered it. I immediately inverted every hive in 
the room, and kept them in this way till spring ; when 
the combs were perfectly bright, not a particle of 
mould to be seen, and was. well satisfied with the re- 
sult of my experiment. Although I was fearful that 
more bees would leave the hives when inverted, than 



WINTERING BEES. 339 

if right side up, yet the result showed no difference. 
I had now tried both methods, and had some means 
of judging. 

BEES WHEN IN THE HOUSE SHOULD BE KEPT PERFECTLY DARK. 

When not kept perfectly dark, a few would leave 
the hives in either case. I have found it much better 
to make the room dark to keep the bees in the hive, 
than to tie over them a thin muslin cloth, as that pre- 
vents a free passage of the vapor, and a great number 
of full stocks were not at all satisfied in confinement ; 
and were continually worrying, and biting at the 
cloth, till they had made several holes through it for 
passages out. Thus the little good was attended by an 
evil, as an offset. Even wire cloth put over to confine 
them, which would be effectual, would not save bees 
enough to pay expense. I have thus wintered them 
for the last ten years, and am extremely doubtful if a 
better way can be found.* For several years I made 
use of a small bed-room in the house, made perfectly 
dark, in which I put about 100 stocks. It was lathed 
and plastered, and no air admitted, except what might 
come through the floor. It was single, and laid rather 
close, though not matched. 

A ROOM MADE FOR WINTERING BEES. 

In the fall of 1849 I built a room for this purpose ; 
the frame was eight by sixteen feet square, and seven 
high, without any windows. A good coat of plaster 

* I was so well pleased with my success, especially with small fa- 
milies, that I detailed the most important points in a communicatioo 
to the Dollar Newspaper, Philadelphia, published November, 1848. 



340 WINTERING BEES. 

was put on the inside, a space of four inches between 
the siding and lath was filled with saw-dust ; under 
the bottom I constructed a passage for the admission 
of air, from the north side ; another over head for its 
exit, to be closed and opened at pleasure, in moderate 
weather, to give them fresh air, but closed when cold, 
and so arranged as to exclude all the light. 

A partition was extended across near the centre. 
This was to prevent disturbing the whole by letting 
in light when carrying them out in the spring. By 
closing the door of this partition, those in one room 
only need be disturbed at once. 

MANNER OF STOWING AWAY BEES. 

Shelves to receive the hives were arranged in tiers 
one above the other ; they were loose, to be taken 
down and put up at pleasure. Suppose we begin at 
the back end: the first row is turned directly on the 
floor, a shelf is then put across a few inches above 
them, and filled, and then another shelf, still above, 
when we again begin on the floor, aad continue thus 
till the room is full ; or if the room is not to be filled, 
the shelves may be fixed around the sides of the room 
in two or three courses. This last arrangement will 
make it very convenient to inspect them at any time 
through the winter, yet they should be disturbed as 
little as possible. The manner of stowing each one is 
to open the holes in the top, then lay down two square 
sticks, such as are made by splitting a board, of suit- 
able length, into pieces about an inch wide. The hive 
is inverted on these ; it gives a free circulation through 



WINTERING BEES. 341 

the hive, and carries off all the moisture as fast as 
generated. 

TEMPERATURE OF ROOM. 

The temperature of such a room will vary accord- 
ing to the number and strength of the stocks put in ; 
100 or more would be very sure to keep it above the 
freezing point at all times. Putting a very few into 
such a room, and depending on the bees to make it 
warm enough, would be of doubtful utility. If these 
means will not keep the proper temperature, proba- 
bly some other method would be better. All full 
stocks would do well enough, as they would almost 
any way. Yet I shall recommend housing them 
whenever practicable. If the number of stocks is 
few, let the room be proportionably small.* It is the 
smallest families that are most trouble : if they are too 
cold, it may be known by bees leaving the hive in 
cold weather, and spots of excrement on the combs ; 
they should then have some additional protection ; 
close part or all of the holes in the top, cover the open 
bottom partially or wholly, and confine to the hive as 
much as possible the animal heat ; when these means 
fail, it may be necessary to take them to a warm room, 
during the coldest weather. 

* As an additional proof that this method of inverting hives in the 
house for winter is valuable, I would say that Mr. Miner, author of 
the American Bee-Keepers Manual, seems fully to appreciate it. In 
the fall of 1850, I communicated to him this method ; giving my rea- 
sons for preferring it to the cold method recommended in his Manual. 
The trial of one winter, it appears, satisfied him of its superiority, so 
much so that within a year from that time he published an essay re- 
commending it ; but advised confining the bees with muslin, &c 



342 WINTERING BEES. 

TOO MUCH HONEY MAY SOMETIMES BE STORED. 

After the flowers fail, and all the brood has ma- 
tured and left the combs, it sometimes happens that a 
stock has an opportunity of plundering, and rapidly 
filling all those cells that had been occupied with 
brood during the yield of honey, and which then 
effectually prevents their storing in them. This, then, 
prevents close packing, which is all -important for 
warmth. Although a large family, as much care is 
needed as with the smaller ones. Also such as are 
affected with diseased brood should receive extra at- 
tention for the same reason. 

Some bee-keepers are unwilling to risk the bold 
measure of inverting the hive, but content themselves 
by merely opening the holes in the top ; this is better 
than no ventilation, but not so effectual, as all of the 
moisture cannot escape. There are some who cannot 
divest themselves of the idea, that if the hive is turned 
over, the bees must also stand on their heads all 
winter ! 

Eats and mice, when they find their way into such 
room, are less bold with their mischief than if the 
hive is in its natural position. 

MANAGEMENT OF ROOM TOWARDS SPRING. 

A few warm days will often occur, towards spring, 
before we can get our bees out. In these cases, a 
bushel or two of snow or ice pounded up should be 
spread on the floor ; it will absorb and carry off as it 
melts much of the heat, that is now unnecessary, and 
will keep them quiet much longer than without it ; 



WINTERING BEES. 343 

(provision for getting rid of this water should be 
made when putting down the floor.) 

TIME FOR SETTING OUT BEES. 

The time for carrying out bees is generally in 
March, but some seasons later. A warm pleasant day 
is the best, and one quite cold, better than one only 
moderately warm. 

After their long confinement, the light attracts them 
out at once, (unless very cold air prevents), and if the 
rays of a warm sun do not keep them active, they 
will soon be chilled and lost. 

Some bee-keepers take out their stocks at evening. 
If we could be always sure of having the next day a 
fair one, it would probably be the best time ; but 
should it be only moderate, or cloudy, it would be 
attended with considerable loss — or if the next day 
should be quite cold, but few would leave, and then 
the only risk would be to get a good day, before one 
that was j ust warm enough to make them leave* the 
hive, but not quite enough to enable them to return. 

NOT TOO MANY STOCKS TAKEN OUT AT ONCE. 

When too many are taken out at once, the rush 
from all the hives is so much like a swarm, that it 
appears to confuse them. Some of the stocks by this 
means will get more bees than actually belong to 
them, while others are proportion ably short, which 
is unprofitable, and to equalize them, is some trouble ; 
yet it may be done. Being all wintered in one room, 
the scent or the means of distinguishing their own 



344 WINTERING BEES. 

family from strangers, becomes so much alike, that 
they mix together without contention. 

FAMILIES MAY BE EQUALIZED. 

By taking advantage of this immediately, or before 
the scent has again changed, and each hive has some- 
thing peculiar to itself, you can change the stands of 
very weak and very strong families. 

To prevent, as far as possible, some of these bad 
effects, I prefer waiting for a fair day to begin, and 
then not until the day has become sufficiently warm 
to make it safe from chill. 

SNOW NEED NOT ALWAYS PREVENT CARRYING OUT BEES. 

I am not particular about the snow being gone — if it 
has only lain long enough to have melted a part of it, 
it is " terra firma" to a bee, and answers equally well 
as the bare earth. When the day is right, about ten 
o'clock I put out twelve or fifteen, taking care that 
each hive occupies its old stand, at the same time en- 
deavoring to take such as will be as far apart as possi- 
ble ; (to make this convenient, they should be carried 
in in the manner that you wish them to come out.) 
When the rush from these hives is over, and the ma- 
jority of the bees has gone back, I set out as many 
more about twelve o'clock, and when the day con- 
tinues fair, another lot about two. In the morning, 
while cool, I move from the back to the first apart- 
ment, about as many as I wish to set out in a day, 
except a few at the last. 

To do this in the middle of the day, while warm, 



WINTERING BEES. 845 

would induce a good many bees to leave the hive, 
while the light was admitted, and which would be lost. 
It will be supposed generally that their long confine- 
ment makes them thus impatient to get out ; but I 
have frequently returned stocks during a cold turn of 
weather after they had been out, and always found 
such equally as anxious to come out, as those which 
had been confined throughout the winter ; without 
the airings, I have kept them thus confined, for five 
months, without difficulty ! The important requisites 
are, sufficient warmth and perfect darkness. 

DOES NOT ANALOGY PROVE THAT BEES SHOULD BE KEPT 
WARM IN WINTER 1 

Opposition to this method of wintering will arise 
with those who have always thought that bees must 
be kept cold; " the colder the better." I would sug- 
gest for their consideration the possibility of some 
analogy between bees and some of the warm-blooded 
animals — the horse, ox, and sheep, for instance, that 
require a constant supply of food, that they may 
generate as much caloric as is thrown off on the cold 
air. This seems to be regulated by the degree of 
cold, else why do they refuse the large quantity of 
tempting provender in the warm days of spring, and 
greedily devour it in the pelting storm? The fact is 
pretty well demonstrated, that the quantity of food 
needed for the same condition in spring, is much less 
when protected from the inclemency of the weather, 
than when exposed to the severe cold. The bee, un- 
like the wasp, when once penetrated with frost, is 
15* 



346 WINTERING BEES. 

dead — their temperature must be kept considerably above 
the freezing point, and to do this, food is required. Now 
if the bees are governed by the same laws, and cold 
air carries off more heat than warm, and their source 
of renewing it is in the consumption of honey in pro- 
portion to the degree of cold, .common sense would 
say, keep them warm as possible. As a certain de- 
gree of heat is necessary in all stocks, it may take 
about such a quantity of honey to produce it, and 
this may explain why a small family requires about 
the same amount of food as others that are very large. 

THE NEXT BEST PLACE FOR WINTERING BEES. 

A dry, warm cellar is the next best place for winter- 
ing them ; the apiarian having one perfectly dark, 
with room to spare, will find it a very good place, in 
the absence of a room above ground. If a large 
number was put in, some means of ventilation should 
be contrived for warm turns of weather. I know an 
apiarian, who by my suggestion has wintered from 
sixty to eighty stocks in this way, for the last six 
years, with perfect success, not having lost one. 
Another has wintered thirty with equal safety. 

As for burying them in the earth, I have not the 
least doubt, if a dry place should be selected, the hive 
inverted, and surrounded with hay, straw, or some 
substance to absorb the moisture, and protected from 
the rain, at the top of the covering, that perfect suc- 
cess would attend the experiment. But this is only 
theory ; when I tried the experiment of burying, and 
had the combs mould, the hives were right side up. 



WINTERING BEES 347 

EVILS OF WINTERING IN THE OPEN A^ CONSIDERED. 

As a great many bee-keepers will find it inconven 
ient, or be unable to avail themselves of my method 
of wintering, it will be well enough to see how far 
the evils of the open air, which we have already 
glanced at, may be successfully avoided. I am told 
by those who have tried wintering them in straw hives, 
that in this respect they are much safer than those 
made of boards ; probably the straw will absorb the 
moisture. But as these hives are more trouble to con- 
struct, and their shape will prevent the use of suitable 
boxes for surplus honey, this one advantage will hardly 
balance the loss. They are said also to be more liable 
to injury from the moth. We want a hive that will 
unite advantageously as many points as possible. 

It should be remembered that bees always need air, 
especially in the cold.* With this in view, we will try 
to dispose of the vapor or frost. If the hive is raised 
sufficient to let it out, it will let in the mice ; to pre- 
vent which, it should be raised only about one-fourth 
of an inch. The hole in the side should be nearly 
covered with wire cloth to keep out the mice ; but give 
a passage for the bees ; otherwise they collect here, en- 
deavoring to get out, and remain till chilled, and thus 
perish by hundreds. The boxes on the top must be 
removed, but not the cap or cover; the holes all 
opened, to let the vapor pass up into the chamber ; if 
this is made with perfectly close joints, so that no air 

* It is presumed that the inexperienced will soon learn to distin- 
guish such bees as die from old age or natural causes, from thosa 
affected by the cold. 



348 WINTERING BEES. 

escapes, it should be raised a very little ; otherwise not. 
The moisture will condense on the sides and top, when 
it melts will follow the sides to the bottom, and pass 
out ; the rabbeting around the top of the hive will 
prevent its getting to the holes, and down among the 
bees. It will be easily comprehended, that a hole be- 
tween each two combs at the top, (as mentioned in the 
subject of putting on the boxes,) will ventilate the hive 
much better than where there is but one or two, or 
where there is a row of several, and all are between 
two combs. 

BUT LITTLE RISK WITH GOOD STOCKS. 

All good stocks may be wintered in this way, with 
but little risk in most situations. Whether in the 
bleak north- wind, buried in a snow-bank, or situated 
warm and pleasant, it will make no great difference. 
The mice cannot enter ; the holes give them air, and 
carry off moisture, &c. But second-rate stocks are not 
equally safe in cold situations. 

EFFECT OF KEEPING SECOND-RATE STOCKS OUT OF THE SUN. 

It has been strongly urged, without regard to the 
strength of the stock, to keep them all out of the sun ; 
because an occasional warm day would call out the 
bees, when they get on the snow, and perish ; this is 
a loss, to be sure, but there is such a thing as inducing 
a greater one by endeavoring to avoid this. I have 
said in another place that second-rate or poor stocks 
might occasionally starve, with plenty of stores in the 
hive, on account of frosty combs. If the hive is kep£ 
from the sun, in the cold, the periods of temperate 



WINTERING BEES. 349 

weather might not occur as often, as the bees would 
exhaust the honey within their circle or cluster. But 
on the contrary, when the sun can strike the hive, it 
warms up the bees, and melts the frost more frequently. 
The bees ma}^ then go among their stores and obtain 
a supply, generally, as often as needed. We seldom 
have a winter without sunny days enough for this 
purpose; but should such an one occur, stocks of this 
class should be brought into a warm room, once in four 
or five days, for a few hours at a time, to give them a 
chance to get at the honey. Stocks much below sec- 
ond-rate cannot be wintered successfully in this cli- 
mate ; the only place for them is the warm room. I 
have known bees thoroughly covered in a snow-drift, 
and their owner was at considerable trouble to shovel 
the snow away, fearing it would smother them. This 
is unnecessary, when protected from the mice and ven- 
tilated as just directed ; a snow-bank is about as com- 
fortable a place as they can have, except in the house. 
When examined a short time after being so covered, 
the snow for a space of about four inches on every 
side of the hive is found melted, and none but quite 
poor stocks would be likely to suffer with this protec- 
tion. A little snow around the bottom, without a vent 
in the side of the hive, might smother them. 

EFFECTS OF SNOW CONSIDERED. 

As for bees getting on the snow, I apprehend that 
not many more are lost there, than on the frozen earth ; 
that is, in" the same kind of weather. I have seen them 
chilled, and lost .on the ground by hundreds, when a 



350 WINTERING BEES. 

casual observer would not have noticed them ; whereas, 
had they been on the snow, at the distance of several 
rods, every bee would have been conspicuous. Snow 
is not to be dreaded as much as chilly air. Suppose 
a hive stands in the sun throughout the winter, and 
bees are allowed to leave when they choose, and a por- 
tion- are lost on the snow, and that it was possible to 
number all that were lost by getting chilled, through- 
out the season, on the bare earth — the proportion (in 
my opinion) lost on the snow would not be one in 
twenty. A person that has not closely observed dur- 
ing damp or chilly weather, in April, May, or even 
the summer months, has no adequate conception of 
the number. Yet, I do not wish to be understood 
that it is of no consequence what are lost on the snow, 
by any means. On the contrary, a great many are 
lost, that might be saved with proper care. But I 
would like to impress the fact, that frozen earth is not 
safe without warm air, any more than snow, when 
crusted, or a little hard. Even when snow is melting, 
it is solid footing for a bee ; they can and do rise from 
it, with the same ease as from the earth. Bees that 
perish on snow in these circumstances, would be likely 
to be lost if there was none. 

STOCKS TO BE PROTECTED ON SOME OCCASIONS. 

The worst time for them to leave the hive is imme- 
diately after a new snow has fallen, because if they 
light on it then, it does not sustain their weight ; and 
they soon work themselves down out of the rays of 
the sun, and perish. Should it clear off pleasant, after 



WINTERING BEES. 351 

a storm of this kind, a little attention will probably 
be remunerated. Also, when the weather is moder- 
ately warm, and not sufficiently so to be safe, they 
should be kept in, whether snow is on the ground or 
otherwise. 

For this purpose, a wide board should be set up be- 
fore the hive to protect it from the sun, at least above 
the entrance in the side. But if it grows sufficiently 
warm so that bees leave the hive when so shaded, it 
is a fair test by which to tell when it will do to let 
them have a good chance to sally out freely, except in 
cases of a new snow, when it is advisable to confine 
them to the hive. The hive might be let down on the 
floor-board, and the wire-cloth cover the passage in 
the side, and made dark for the present ; raising the 
hive at night again, as before. I have known hundreds 
of stocks wintered successfully without any such care 
being taken, and the bees allowed to come out when- 
ever they chose to do so. Their subsequent health 
and prosperity proving that it is not altogether ruin- 
ous. It has been recommended to enclose the whole 
hive by a large box set over it, and made perfectly 
dark, with means for ventilation, &c. (A snow-bank 
would answer equally well, if not better.) For large 
families it would do well enough, as would also other 
methods. But I would much rather take the chances 
of letting them all stand in the sun, and issue as they 
please, than to have the warmth of the sun entirely 
excluded from the moderate-sized families. I nevei 
knew a whole stock lost by this cause alone.* Yet, ] 

• Vide other causes of loss, a few pages back. 



352 WINTERING BEES. 

have known a great many starved, merely because 
the sun was not allowed to melt the frost on the combs, 
and give them a chance to get at their stores. 

DO THE BEES EAT MORE WHEN ALLOWED TO COME OUT OCCASION- 
ALLY IN WINTER 1 

Besides the loss of bees on the snow when standing 
in the sun, and taking an airing occasionally, there 
are some economical bee-keepers who urge this disad- 
vantage, " that every time bees come out in winter 
they discharge their excrement, and eat more honey 
in consequence of the vacant room." What a ridicu- 
lous absurdity it would be to apply this principle to the 
horse, whose health, strength, and vital heat is sustain- 
ed by the assimilation of food ! and the farmer is not 
to be found who would think of saving his provender 
by the same means. That bees are supported in cold 
weather on the same principle is indicated strongly, if 
not conclusively. 

Is it not better (if what has been said on the subject 
of wintering bees is correct) to keep our bees warm 
and comfortable when practicable, as a means of saving 
honey ? 

To winter bees in the best manner, considerable 
care is required. Whenever you are disposed to neg- 
lect them, you should bear in mind that one early 
swarm is worth two late ones; their condition in 
spring will often decide this point. Like a team of 
cattle or horses when well wintered, they are ready 
for a good season's work, but when poorly wintered 
have to recruit a long time before they are worth 
much. 



SAGACITY OF BEES. 353 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

SAGACITY OF BEES. 

ARE NOT BEES DIRECTED ALONE BY INSTINCT ? 

On this subject I have but little to say, as I have 
failed to discover anything uncommonly remarkable, 
separate and distinct in one swarm, that another 
would not exhibit. I have found one swarm guided 
alone by instinct, doing just what another would un- 
der the same circumstances. 

Writers, not contented with the astonishing results 
of instinct, with their love of the marvellous, must add 
a good share of reason to their other faculties, — " an 
adaptation of means to ends, that reason alone could 
produce.'' It is very true, without close inspection, 
and comparing the results of different swarms in sim- 
ilar cases, one might arrive at such conclusion. It is 
difficult, as all will admit, " to tell where instinct ends, 
and reason begins." Instances of sagacity, like the 
following, have been mentioned. " When the weather 
is warm, and the heat inside is somewhat oppressive, a 
number of bees may be seen stationed around the en- 
trance, vibrating their wings. Those inside will turn 
their heads towards the passage, while those outside 
will turn theirs the other way. A constant agitation 
of air is thus created, thereby ventilating the hive more 
effectually." All full stocks do this in hot weather. 

WHAT THEY DO WITH PROPOLIS. 

" A snail had entered the hive and fixed itself 
against the glass side. The bees, unable to penetrate 



354 SAGACITY OF BEES. 

it with their stings, the cunning economists fixed it 
immovably, by cementing merely the edge of the ori- 
fice of the shell to the glass with resin, (propolis), and 
thus it became a prisoner for life." Now the instinct 
that prompts the gathering of propolis in August, and 
filling every crack, flaw, or inequality about the 
hive, would cement the edges of the snail-shell to the 
glass, and a small stone, block of wood, chip, or any 
substance that they are unable to remove, would be 
fastened with it in the same manner. The edges or 
bottom of the hive, when in close proximity to the 
bottom, is joined to it with this substance. Whatever 
the obstacle may be, it is pretty sure to receive a 
coating of this. The stoppers for the holes at the top 
are held in their places on the same principle ; and 
the unaccountable sagacity that once fastened a little 
door, might possibly be nothing more than the same 
instinct. 

Another principle, I think, will be found to be uni- 
versal with them, instead of sagacious reasoning. 

Whenever the combs in a hive have been broken, 
or when combs have been added, as was mentioned in 
the chapter on fall management, the first duty of the 
bees appears to be to fasten them as they are ; when 
the edges are near the side of the hive, or two combs 
in contact, a portion of wax is detached and used for 
joining them together, or to the side. 

MENDING BROKEN COMBS. 

Where two combs do not touch, and yet are close 
together, a small bar is constructed from one to the 



SAGACITY OF BEES. 355 

other, preventing any nearer approach. (This may 
be illustrated by turning the hive a few inches from 
the perpendicular after being filled with combs in 
warm weather.) 

MAKING PASSAGES TO EVERY PART OF THEIR COMBS. 

Should nearly all the combs in the hive become de- 
tached from any cause, and lie on the bottom in one 
st grand smash of ruin," their first steps are, as just de- 
scribed, pillars from one to the other to keep them as 
they are. In a few days, in warm weather, they will 
have made passages by biting away combs where they 
are in contact, throughout every part of the mass ; 
little columns of wax below, supporting the combs 
above, — irregular, to be sure, but as well as circum- 
stances admit. Not a single piece can be removed 
without breaking it from the others, and the whole 
will be firmly cemented together. A piece of comb 
filled with honey, and sealed up, may be put in a glass 
box with the ends of these cells so sealed, touching 
the glass. The principle of allowing no part of their 
tenement to be in a situation inaccessible, is soon man- 
ifested. They immediately bite off the ends of the 
cells, remove the honey that is in the way, and make 
a passage next to the glass, leaving a few bars from it 
to the comb, to steady and keep it in its position. A 
single sheet of comb lying flat on the bottom-board of 
a populous swarm is cut away under side, for a pas- 
sage in every direction, numerous little pillars of wax 
being left for its support. How any person in the 
habit of watching their proceedings, with any degree 



356 SAGACITY OF BEES. 

of attention, could come at the conclusion that the 
bees raised such comb by mechanical means and then 
put under the props for its support, is somewhat sin- 
gular. Their efforts united for such a purpose like 
reasonable beings, I never witnessed. 

These things, considered as the effect of instinct, are 
none the less wonderful on that account. I am not 
sure but the display of wisdom is even greater than if 
the power of planning their own operations had been 
given them. 

I have mentioned these, to show that a course of 
action called forth by the peculiar situation of one 
family, would be copied by another in a similar emer- 
gency, without being aware of its ever being done 
before. Were I engaged in a work of fiction, I might 
let fancy reign and endeavor to amuse, but this is not 
the object. Let us endeavor then to be content with 
truth, and not murmur with its reality. When we 
take a survey of the astonishing regularity with which 
they construct their combs without a teacher, and 
remember that the waxen material is formed in the 
rings of their body, that for the first time in life, 
without an experienced leader's direction, they apply 
a claw to detach it, that they go forth to the fields 
and gather stores unbidden by a tyrant's mandate, 
and throughout the whole cycle of their operations, 
one law and power governs. Whoever would seek 
mind as the directing power, must look beyond the 
censorium of the bee for the source of all we behold 
in them ! 



STRAINING HONEY. 357 

CHAPTEE XXIY, 

STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. 

When about to remove the contents of a hive, I 
have never found it necessary to use all the precau- 
tions often recommended to prevent the access of bees. 
I have seen it stated that a room in which there was a 
chimney open, wo aid be unsuitable, as the bees would 
scent the honey, and thus find their way down into 
the room. I never was thus troubled by their per- 
pendicular travelling. It is true, if the day was warm, 
and a door or window was standing open, the bees 
would find their way in during a scarcity of honey. 
But with doors and windows closed no difficulty need 
be apprehended. 

METHODS OF REMOVING COMBS FROM THE HIVE. 

The most convenient way to remove combs from 
the hive is to take off one of its sides, but this is apt 
to split the boards, if it was properly nailed, and injure 
it for subsequent use. With tools such as have been 
described, it may be done very nicely, and leave the 
hive whole. The chisel should have the bevel all on 
one side, like those used by carpenters. When you 
commence, turn the flat side next the board of the 
hive, and the bevel crowded by the combs will follow 
it close the whole length ; with the other tool they 
are cut across the top, and readily lifted out. If pre- 
ferred, they may be cut across near the centre and 
take out half a sheet at a time ; this is sometimes 
necessary on account of the cross-sticks. 



968 STRAINING HONEY. 

DUratXEH METHODS OF STRAINING ROUST, 

Such combs as are taken from the : ot vi- 

cini:y of brood-cell^ an genea it for the table; 

such should be straii ore several methods 

of doing it. One is, to mash the and put it in 

a bag. and hang it over some vessel to catch th 
as i: drains out This will ik very well for small 

-.uities in warm weather, or in the fall before th< 
is any of it eand . /.other method is to put such 

eo:-e> into a colander, and set this over a pan, and 
introduce it into an oven after the bread is out 
melts the combs. The honey and a portion of I 
wax run out together. The wax rises to the top 
cools in a cake. It is somewhat liable tc 
requires some care. Many . as 

; is 'ess taste of bee-'. o cells containing it 

being disturbed, but all the hosej is not certain tc 
drain out without stirring it EP disposed, two oviali- 
ttes may be made, by keej first orate, 

Another method is merely to break : ;l\-. 

and put them into a colander, lonev :o 

drain out without much I 

the small particles t t when \ 

particular, pass the honev throug 
lace. But for ^ large quantities, a more expeditious 
mode is to have a can and strainer, made for the 
pose, where fifty pounds or more worked out 

& once. The can is made of tin, twelve or :'. 
inches deep, by about ten or twelve diameter, with 
handles on each side at the top foi it The 

strainer is just enough smaller to £o down inside the 



STRAINING HONEY. 359 

can ; the height may be considerably less, providing 
there are handles on each side to pass out at the top ; 
the bottom is perforated with holes like a colander, 
combs are put into this, and the whole set into a 
kettle of boiling water, and heated without any risk 
of burning, until all the wax is melted, (which may 
be ascertained by stirring it,) when it may be taken 
out. All the wax, bee-bread, &c, will rise in a few 
minutes. The strainer can now be raised out of the 
top and set on a frame for the purpose, or by merely 
tipping it slightly on one side it will rest on the top 
of the can. It might be left to cool before raising the 
strainer, were it not liable to stick to the sides of the 
can ; the honey would be full as pure, and separate 
nearly as clean from the wax and bee-bread, &c. 
When raised out before cooling, the contents should 
be repeated^ stirred, or considerable honey will re- 
main. Two qualities may be made by keeping the 
first that runs through separate from the last, (as 
stirring it works out the bee-bread). Even a third 
quality may be obtained by adding a little water, and 
repeating the process. This is worth but little. By 
boiling out the water, without burning, and removing 
the scum, it will do to feed bees. By adding water 
until it will just bear a potato, boiling and skimming, 
and letting it ferment, it will make metheglin, or by 
letting the fermentation proceed it will make vinegar. 
Honey that has been heated thoroughly, will not 
candy as readily as when strained without heat. A 
little water may be added to prevent its getting too 
hard; but should it get so in cold weather, it can at 



360 STRAINING HONEY. 

any time be warmed, and water added until it is of 
the right consistence. 

GETTING OUT WAX DIFFERENT METHODS. 

Several methods have been adopted for separating 
the wax. I never found any means of getting out the 
whole. Yet I suppose I came as near it as any one. 
Some recommend heating it in an oven, similar to the 
method of straining honey through the colander, but 
I have found it to waste more than when melted with 
water. A better way for small quantities, is to half 
fill a coarse stout bag with refuse comb and a few 
cobble-stones to sink it, and boil it in a kettle of 
water, pressing and turning it frequently till the wax 
ceases to rise. When the contents of the bag are 
emptied, by squeezing a handful, the particles of wax 
may be seen, and you may thereby judge of the 
quantity thrown away. For large quantities the fore- 
going process is rather tedious. It can be facilitated 
by having two levers four or five feet long and about 
four inches wide, and fastened at the lower end by a 
strong hinge. The combs are put into a kettle of 
boiling water, and will melt almost immediately ; it is 
then put into the bag, and taken between the levers 
in a wash-tub or other large vessel and pressed, the 
contents of the bag shaken, and turned, several times 
during the process, and if need be returned to the 
boiling water and squeezed again. The wax, with a 
little water, is now to be remelted and strained again 
through finer cloth, into vessels that will mould it 
into the desired shape. As the sediment settles to 



PURCHASING STOCKS. 361 

the bottom of the wax when melted, a portion may 
be dipped off nearly pure without straining. 

"Wax in cool weather may be whitened in a short 
time in the sun, but it must be in very thin flakes ; it 
is readily obtained in this shape by having a very thin 
board or shingle, which should be first thoroughly 
wet, and then dipped into pure melted wax ; enough 
will adhere to make it the desired thickness, and will 
cool instantly on being withdrawn. Draw a knife 
along the edges, and it will readily cleave off. Ex- 
posed to the sun in a window or on the snow, it will 
become perfectly white, when it can be made into 
cakes for market, where it commands a m»ch higher 
price than the yellow. It is said there is a chemical 
process that whitens it readily, but I am not acquaint- 
ed with it. 



CHAPTEE XXV. 

PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 

If the reader has no bees, and yet has had interest 
or patience to follow me thus far, it is presumptive 
evidence that he would possess the requisite perse- 
verance to take charge of them. It would be well, 
however, to remember the anxieties, perplexities, and 
time necessary to take the proper care, as well as the 
advantages and profit. 

But if you are disposed to try the experiment, 
very likely some directions for a commencement 
would be acceptable. 
16 



362 PURCHASING STOCKS. 

WHY THE WORD LUCK IS APPLIED TO BEES. 

There has been so much uncertainty in stock of this 
kind, that the word luck has been made to express too 
much. Some have been successful, while others have 
failed entirely; this has suggested the idea that luck 
depended on the manner that the stocks were obtain- 
ed ; and here again there seems to be a variety of 
opinions, as is the case always, when a thing is guessed 
at. One will assert that the " fickle dame " is charmed 
into favor by stealing a stock or two to begin with, 
and returning them after a start. Another, (a little 
more conscientious, perhaps) that you must take them 
without liberty, to be sure, but leave an equivalent in 
money on the stand. Another, that the only way to 
get up an effectual charm, is to exchange sheep for 
them ; and still another says, that bees must always be a 
gift. I have had all these methods offered me gratis, 
with gravity, suitable to make an impression. And, 
finally, there has yet another method been found out, 
and that is, when you want a few stocks of bees go 
and buy them, yes, and pay for them too, in dollars 
and cents, or take them for a share of the increase for 
a time, if it suits your pecuniary resources best. And 
you need not depend on .any charm or mystic power 
for your success — if you do, I cannot avoid the un- 
favorable prediction of a failure. It is true that a few 
have accidentally prospered for a few years ; I say acci 
dentally, because when they have no true principles of 
management, it must be the result of accident. It is 
a saying with some, that " one man can't have luck 
but few years at once," and others none at all, although 



PURCHASING STOCKS. 363 

he tries the whole routine of charms. Nearly twenty 
years ago, when my respected neighbor predicted a 
" turn in my luck, because it was always so," I could 
not understand the force of this reasoning, unless it 
belonged to the nature of bees to deteriorate, and con- 
sequently run out. I at once determined to ascertain 
this point. I could understand how a farmer would 
often fail to raise a crop, if he depended on chance or 
luck for success, instead of fixed natural principles. 
It was possible that bees might be similar. I found 
that in good seasons the majority of people had luck, 
but in poor seasons, the reverse, and when two or 
three occurred in succession, then was the time to lose 
their luck. It was evident, then, if I could pass in 
safety the poor seasons by any means, I should do well 
enough in good ones.* The result has given me but 
little reason to complain. My advice therefore is, 
that reliance should be placed on proper management, 
instead of luck, arising from the manner the first 
stock was obtained. Should any one feel disposed to 
make you a present of a stock or two of bees, I would 
advise you to accept the offer and be thankful, dis- 
carding all apprehension of a failure on that account. 
Or if any one is willing you should take some on 
shares, this is a cheap way to get a start, and you have 
no risk of loss in the old stock. Yet if bees prosper, 
the interest on the money that stocks cost is a mere 
trifle in comparison to the value of increase, and you 
have the same trouble. On the other hand, the owner 

* There are sections of country where the difference in seasons ia 
lees than in this. 



364 PURCHASING STOCKS. 

of bees can afford to take care of a few hives more, 
for half the profits, which he has to give if another 
takes them ; this is apt to be the case, especially, with 
such as have no faith in charms. 

RULE IN TAKING BEES FOR A SHARE. 

The rule generally adopted for taking bees is this. 
One or more stocks are taken for a term of years, the 
person taking them finding hives, boxes, and bestow- 
ing whatsoever care is necessary, and returning the 
old stocks to the owner with half the increase and 
profits. 

A MAN MAY SELL HIS " LUCK." 

There are yet a few persons who refuse to sell a 
stock of bees, because it is " bad luck." There is 
often some grounds for this notion. It might arise 
under the following circumstances. Suppose a person 
has a half dozen hives, three extra good, the others 
of the opposite extreme. He sells for the sake of the 
better price his three best ; there is but little doubt but 
his best "luck" would go too ! But should his poor- 
est be taken, the result would be different, without 
doubt. 

But there are cases where an apiarian has more 
stocks than he wishes to keep. (It has been the case 
with myself frequently.) Persons wishing to sell, are 
the proper ones of which to buy. Purchasers seldom 
want any but first-rate stocks, they are generally 
cheapest in the end. There is usually a difference of 
about a dollar in the spring and fall prices, and five 
and six dollars are common charges. I have known 



PURCHASING STOCKS. 365 

them sell at auction at eight, but in some sections 
they are less. 

FIRST-RATE STOCKS RECOMMENDED TO BEGIN WITH. 

For a beginning then, I would recommend purchas- 
ing none but first-rate stocks ; it will make but little 
difference in the risk, whether you obtain them in the 
spring, or fall, if you have read my remarks on winter 
management with attention ; I have already said the 
requisites for a good stock for winter, were a numer- 
ous family and plenty of honey, and that the cluster 
of bees should extend through nearly all the combs, 
&c. To avoid as far as possible diseased brood, find 
an apiary where it has never made its appearance, to 
make purchases. There are some who have lost bees 
by it, and yet are totally ignorant of the cause. It 
would be well, therefore, to inquire if any stocks have 
been lost, and then for the cause — be careful that sec- 
ondary are not mistaken for primary causes. 

OLD STOCKS ARE GOOD AS ANY, IF HEALTHY. 

When it appears that all are exempt, (by a thorough 
examination, if not satisfied without,) you need not 
object to stocks two or three years old; they are just 
as good as any, sometimes better, (providing they have 
swarmed the season previous, according to one author ; 
because such always have young queens, which are 
more prolific than old ones, that will be in all first 
swarms). 

Old stocks are as prosperous as any, as long as they 
are healthy, yet they are more liable to become dis- 
eased. 



PURCHASING STOCKS. 



CAUTION RESPECTING DISEASED BROOD. 

When no apiary from which to purchase can be found, 
but where the disease has made its appearance, and 
you are necessitated to purchase from such, or not at 
all, you cannot be too cautious about it. It would be 
safest in this case to take none but young swarms, as 
it is not so common for them to be affected the first 
season, yet they are not always exempt. But here, 
again, you may not be allowed to take all young stocks ; 
in which case let the weather be pretty cold, the bees 
will be farther up among the combs, and give a chance 
to inspect the combs. At this season, say not earlier 
than November, all the healthy brood will be hatched. 
Sometimes, a few young bees may be left that have 
their mature shape, and probably had been chilled 
by sudden cold weather — these are not the result of 
disease, the bees Avill remove them the next season, 
and no bad results follow. In warm weather a satis- 
factory inspection can be had no other way, but by 
the use of tobacco smoke. Be particular to reject all 
that are affected with the disease in the least ; better 
do without, than take such to begin with. (A full 
description has been given of this disease in another 
place.) 

RESULT OF IGNORANCE IN PURCHASING. 

A neighbor purchased thirteen stock-hives ; six were 
old ones, the others swarms of the last season. As 
the old hives were heavy, he of course thought them 
good ; either he knew nothing of the disease, or took 
no trouble to examine ; five of the six old ones were 
badly affected. Four were lost outright, except the 



PURCHASING STOCKS. 367 

honey ; the fifth lasted through the winter, and then 
had to be transferred. He had flattered himself that 
they were obtained very cheaply, but when he made 
out what his good ones cost, he found no great reason, 
in this respect, for congratulation. 

SIZES OF HIVES IMPORTANT. 

Another point is worthy of consideration : endeavor 
to get hives as near the right size as possible, viz., 
2,000 cubic inches ; better too large than too small. 
If too large, they may be cut off, leaving them the 
proper size. But yet, it often makes an ungainly 
shape, being too large square for the height. As the 
shape probably makes no difference in the prosperity 
of the bees, the appearance is the principal objection, 
after being cut off. 

An acquaintance had purchased a lot of bees in 
very large hives, and called on me to know what to 
do with them, as he feared such would not swarm 
well in consequence ; I told him it would be doubtful, 
unless he cut them off to the right size. 

" Cut 'em off! how can that be done ? there is bees 
in 'em." 

"So I expected, but it can be done nearly as well 
as if empty." 

" But don't you get stung dreadfully ?" 

" Not often : if it is to be done in warm weather, I 
smoke them well before I begin ; in vein/ cold weather 
is the best time, then it is unnecessary ; simply turn 
the hive bottom up, mark off the proper size, and 
with a sharp saw take it off without trouble." 



368 PURCHASING STOCKS. 

" Some are rilled with combs ; you don't cut off such, 
do you ?" 

" Certainly ; I consider all the room for combs in a 
hive over 2000 inches as worse than lost." 

"What will you ask to cut mine off? If I could 
see it done once, I might do it next time." 

" The charge will be light ; but if }^ou intend to 
keep bees, you should learn to do everything pertain- 
ing to them, and not be dependent on any one ; I did 
it before I ever saw or heard of its being done." I 
then gave him full directions how to manage, but 
could not persuade him to undertake. 

HOW LARGE HIVES CAN BE MADE SMALLER. 

A short time after, I attended, on a cold day, with 
a sharp saw, square, &c. I found his hives fourteen 
inches square inside, and eighteen deep, holding about 
3500 inches. Of this square, a little more than ten 
inches in height, would make just the right size. 
To work convenient, I inverted the hive on a barrel, 
set on end, marked the length, and sawed it off, with- 
out a bee leaving. It was very cold, (mercury at 6 
deg.) The bees came to the edges of the combs, but 
the cold drove them back. In a short time I had taken 
off six; four when done were just about full; the 
other two were so when I began, but they were mark- 
ed and sawed like the rest ; when the combs were 
attached, they were severed with a knife, and the 
piece of the hive thus loose, was raised off, leaving 
several inches of the combs projecting out of the hive. 
I now cut off the first comb, even with the bottom of 



TRANSPORTING BEES. 369 

the Live. On the next comb there were a few bees; 
with a quill these were brushed down into the hive ; 
this piece was then removed, and the bees on the 
other side of it were brushed down also. In this way 
all others were removed, and left the hive just full. 
The other full hive, after it was sawed on each side, 
a small w r ire was drawn through, parallel with the 
sheets, and severed all the combs at once ; each piece 
was taken out, and the bees that were clustered on 
them brushed back ; removing the loose part of the 
hive, was the last thing to be done. This last method 
was preferred to the other by my employer ; yet it was 
all performed to his satisfaction, no sting or other diffi- 
culty about it, except the trouble of warming fingers 
rather frequently. Tobacco smoke would have kept 
them quiet during the operation, nearly as well. If 
preferred, a hive may stand right side up while sawing 
it. 

MODERATE WEATHER BEST TO REMOVE BEES. 

In transporting your bees, avoid if possible the two 
extremes of very cold, or very warm weather. In the 
latter the combs are so nearly melted, that the weight 
of the honey will bend them, bursting the cells, spilling 
the honey, "and besmearing the bees. In very cold 
weather, the combs are brittle, and easily detached 
from the sides of the hive. When necessitated to 
move them in very cold weather, they should be put 
up an hour or so before starting. The agitation of 
the bees after being disturbed will create considerable 
16* 



370 TRANSPORTING BEES. 

heat ; a portion of this will be imparted to the combs, 
and add to their strength 

PREPARATIONS FOR TRANSPORTING BEES. 

To prepare for moving them, pieces of thin muslin 
about half a yard square is as good as anything, se- 
cured by carpet tacks. 

SECURING BEES IN THE HIVE. 

The hive is inverted, and the cloth put over, neatly 
folded, and fastened with a tack at the corners, and 
another in the middle. The tack is crowed in about 
two-thirds of its length, it then presents the head con- 
venient to pull out. If the bees are to go a great 
distance, and require to be shut up several days, the 
muslin will be hardly sufficient, as they would proba- 
bly bite their wa} r out. Something more substantial 
would then be required. Take a board the size of 
the bottom, cut out a place in the middle, and cover 
with wire cloth, (like the one recommended for hiving,) 
and fasten it with tacks. This board is to T)e nailed 
on the hive. After the nails are driven, with the 
hammer start it off about the eighth of an inch ; it 
will admit a little air around the sides as well as the 
middle, quite necessary for heavy stocks. But very 
small families might be safe without the wire cloth ; 
air enough would pass between the hive and board, 
except in warm weather. New combs break easier 
than old. 

BEST CONVEYANCE. 

Probably the best conveyance is a wagon with 



TRANSPORTING BEES. 371 

elliptic springs. But a wagon without springs is bad, 
especially for young stocks. Yet I have known them 
moved safely in this way, but it required some care 
in packing with hay, or straw, under and around them, 
and careful driving. Good sleighing will answer very 
well, and by some thought to be the best time. 

HIVE TO BE INVERTED. 

Whatever conveyance is employed, the hive should 
be inverted. The combs will then all rest closely on 
the top, and are less liable to break than when right 
end up, because then the whole weight of the combs 
must depend upon the fastenings at the top and sides 
for support, and are easily detached and fall. When 
moving bees, so reversed, they will creep upward ; in 
stocks part full, they will often nearly all leave the 
combs, and get upon the covering. In a short time 
after being set up, they will return, except in very 
cold weather, when a few will sometimes freeze ; con- 
sequently a warm room is required to put them in for 
a short time. 

After carrying them a few miles, the disposition to 
sting is generally gone, yet there are a few excep- 
tions. In moderate weather, when bees are confined, 
they manifest a persevering determination to find their 
way out, particularly after being moved, and some- 
what disturbed. I have known them to bite holes 
through muslin in three days. The same difficulty is 
often attendant on attempting to confine them to the 
hive by muslin when in the house in the winter, 
ezcept when kept in a cold situation. Should any 



372 CONCLUSION. 

combs become broken, or detached from their fasten- 
ings, in hives not full, by moving or other accident, 
rendering them liable to fall when set up, the hive 
may remain inverted on the stand till warm weather, 
if necessary, and the bees have again fastened them, 
which they do soon after commencing work in the 
spring. If they are so badly broken that they bend 
over, rolls of paper may be put between them to pre- 
serve the proper distance till secured. When they 
commence making new combs, or before, it is time to 
turn the right end up. While the hive is inverted, it 
is essential that a hole is in the side, through which 
the bees may work. A board should fit close over 
the bottom, and covered, to effectually prevent any 
water from getting among the bees, &c. 

CONCLUSION. 

In conclusion I would say, that the apiarian who 
has followed me attentively, and has added nothing of 
value to his stock of information, possesses an envia- 
ble experience that all should strive to obtain. 

It has been said that " three out of five who com- 
mence an apiary must fail ; " but let us suppose it is 
through ignorance or inattention, and not inherent 
with the bees. To the beginner then I would say, — 
if you expect to succeed in obtaining one of the most 
delectable of sweets for your own consumption, or the 
profit in dollars and cents, you will find something 
more requisite than merely holding the dish to obtain 
the porridge. "See your bees often," and know 
at all times their actual condition. This one recipe is 



CONCLUSION. 373 

worth more than all others that can be given ; it is at 
the head of the class of duties ; all others begin here. 
Even the grand secret of successfully combating the 
worms, — keep your bees stroxg, must take its rise 
at this point. With the above motto acted upon, 
carried out fully, and with perseverance, you cannot 
well fail to realize all reasonable expectations. Avoid 
over-anxiety for a rapid increase in stocks ; try and 
be satisfied with one good swarm from a stock annu- 
ally, your chances are better than with more ; do not 
anticipate the golden harvest too soon. You will 
probably be necessitated to discard some of the ex- 
travagant reports of profits from the apiary. Yet you 
will find one stock trebling, perhaps quadrupling its 
price or value in products, while the one beside it 
does nothing. In some seasons particularly favorable 
your stocks collectively will yield a return of one or 
two hundred per cent. — in others, hardly make a re- 
turn for trouble. The proper estimate can be made 
only after a number of years, when, if they have been 
judiciously managed, and your ideas have not been 
too extravagant, you will be fully satisfied. I have 
known a single stock in one season to produce more 
than twenty dollars in swarms and honey, and ninety 
stocks to produce over nine hundred dollars, when a 
few of the number added not a farthing to the amount. 
I do not wish to nold out inducements for any one to 
commence bee-keeping, and end it in disgust and dis- 
appointment. But I would encourage all , suitable 
persons to try their skill in bee management. I say 
suitable persons, because there are many, very many, 



874 CONCLUSION - . 

not qualified for the charge. The careless, inattentive 
man, who leaves his bees unnoticed from October 
till May, will be likely to complain of ill success. 

Whoever cannot find time to give his bees the 
needed care, but can spend an hour each day obtain- 
ing gossip at the neighborhood tavern, is unfit for 
this business. But he who has a home, and finds his 
affections beginning to be divided between that and 
his companions of the bar-room, and wishes to with- 
draw his interest from unprofitable associates, and yet 
has nothing of sufficient power to break the bond, to 
what can he apply with a better prospect of success, 
than to engage in keeping bees ? They make ample 
returns for each little care. Pecuniary advantages 
are not all that may be gained — a great many points 
concerning their natural history are yet in the dark, 
and many are disputed. Would it not be a source of 
satisfaction to be able to contribute a few more facts 
to this interesting subject, adding to the science, and 
holding a share in the general fund ? Supposing all 
the mysteries . pertaining to their economy discovered 
and elucidated, precluding all .chance of further ad- 
ditions, would the study be dry and monotonous? 
On the contrary, the verification witnessed by our. 
selves would be so fascinating and instructive, that we 
cannot avoid pitying the condition of that man who 
finds gratification only in the gross and sensual. It 
has been remarked, that a he who cannot find in this 
and other branches of natural history a salutary exer- 
cise for his mental faculties, inducing a habit of ob- 
servation and reflection, a pleasure so easily obtained, 



CONCLUSION. 375 

unalloyed by any debasing mixture — tending to ex- 
pand and harmonize his mind, and elevate it to con- 
ceptions of the majestic, sublime, serene, and beautiful 
arrangements instituted by the (rod of nature, must 
possess an organization sadly deficient, or be surround- 
ed by circumstances indeed lamentable." I would 
recommend the study of the honey-bee as one best 
calculated to awaken the interest of the indifferent. 
What can arrest the attention like their structure — 
their diligence in collecting stores for the future — their 
secretion of wax and moulding it into structures with 
a mathematical precision astonishing the profoundest 
philosophers — their maternal and fraternal affection 
in regarding the mother's every want, and assiduous 
care in nursing her offspring to maturity — their unac- 
countable display of instinct in emergencies or acci- 
dents, filling the beholder with wonder and amaze- 
ment ? The mind thus contemplating such astonishing 
operations, cannot well avoid looking beyond these 
results to their divine Author. Therefore let every 
mind that perceives one ray of light from nature's 
mysterious transactions, and is capable of receiving 
the least enjoyment therefrom, pursue the path still 
inviting onward in the pursuit. Every new acqui- 
sition will bring an additional satisfaction, and assist 
in the next attempt, which will be commenced with a 
renewed and constantly increasing zest ; and will 
arise from the contemplation a wiser, better, and a 
nobler being, far superior to those who have never 
soared beyond the gratifications of the mere animal, 
grovelling in the dark. Is there, in the whole circle 



376 CONCLUSION. 

of nature's exbaustless storehouse, any one science 
more inviting than this? What more exalting and 
refining, and at the same time making a return ii 
profits as a pecuniary reward? 



APPENDIX, 



At the time of writing the chapter on Hives in this work, T really supposed that 
no important improvement had ever been made over the simple box for a bee- 
hive — an improvement that, on the whole, was an advantage — that did not destroy- 
in one part all that was gained in another. 

I continued to use the one described on pages 46, 47, and 48, with much satisfac- 
tion ; but very few, perhaps not any one, kept bees with more profit than myself; 
because, when I had obtained fifty pounds of surplus honey from a swarm, I was 
not necessitated to take the whole to pay for the hive. Through the papers, I chal- 
lenged the patent venders to produce better results with any of their hives : not by 
interested statements of isolated cases, but by a simple, fair test, where everything 
would be equal by the side of mine. After a trial of two years, if their hive proved 
superior to mine, to the amount of only twenty-five cents per hive, I was to pay a 
handsome premium; besides, I promised to make this superiority public, which would 
probably have been the greater advantage. I did not really expect any one to fur- 
nish a hive, not because there was anything unfair in my offer, asking more than I 
was willing to give, but because I did not expect any of them were willing to risk 
the result contrasted, notwithstanding all their boasting. Yet, unexpectedly, I 
think I have found a hive superior, in many respects, to the simple box. It is not 
pretended that a swarm of bees located in it will store a greater amount of honey 
in a given time, but the advantages are in the control of their operations, and know- 
ing their condition at all times. 

A friend of mine, on ascertaining that I did not allow prejudice to operate against 
my own interest knowingly, even in a bee-hive — that I would not reject an advan- 
tage because it was found in a patent, but was willing to profit by whatever could 
be made profitable — sent me a copy of the Rev. L. L. Langstroth's work on the 
" Hive and Honey-Bee," early in 1856. I had heard of the work previously, but 
had understood that it recommended a patent hive, and not having reason to 
esteem them very highly, I took no pains to procure the work. I found, on a 
perusal, that he agreed with me on so many disputed points in Natural History and 
practical lessons, that had it not appeared simultaneously with the "Mysteries," 
thus making it impossible for him to have taken any part from it, I should perhaps 
have judged him wrongfully, and very likely he would have done the same by me. 
It was evident, therefore, that both of us had arrived at correct conclusions by the 
same process — close observation. This gave me a favorable impression. I found, 
also, that his hive, for a wonder (being a patent), did not necessarily interfere with 
the natural habits of the bees. It is very desirable, on some occasions, to get at the 
interior of a bee-hive, which seemed feasible with his movable frames. And I 
further saw that I could make just such a hive as I was using with the advantage 
of taking out and returning the combs, if I chose ; therefore, after waiting some 
months without an answer to a letter addressed to Mr. L., I ventured to construct 
some half-dozen hives on this principle, and transferred the bees and combs from 
the same number of common hives into them. The greatest advantage that I then 
anticipated was the prevention of second swarms, in which I succeeded without any 
difficulty. Without knowing what I had done, Mr. Langstroth, near the end of the 
season, brought me a sample of his hive, requesting a trial, and a report of the 
result when fully satisfied, which I readily promised to do. The shape, as he had 
it, did not suit me, but the principle of the frames, rightly managed, I judged might 
be made profitable — the advantages ought to be enough to balance the extra ex- 
pense of construction. Having had a few lessons in bee-hives, when my expecta 
tions were not altogether realized, I determined, notwithstanding it appeared like an 
Improvement, to test this thoroughly before recommending it. Accordingly, in the 
summer of 1857, 1 put bees into nearly one hundred of these hives. Although sev- 
eral made their combs somewhat crooked, they could be taken out of all but one. 
That season proved a very poor one for honey, and the greater part of the swarms 
had too little stores for winter, and, to prevent a worse evil, were doomed to the 
brimstone pit. All the combs in these frames were saved, as so much work 
accomplished for another year. Such as contained enough honey to make it worth 
the trouble were given to the light colonies, a number of which were by this 
means enabled to pass the winter safely. For this season (185S) , these frames 
with dry combs were used, with empty ones, in most of the hives for new swarms.* 
Two or three frames only, containing combs, were put in a hive, as an occasional 
guide between the empty ones. In this way I have secured all straight combs, 
which is very important, as most of the value of the movable frames depends on 
their being straight enough at last to be lifted out — a difficulty more common this 

177 



378 APPENDIX. 

year than last, where no combs were used as guides. Whether it is owing to tbo 
rapidity of collecting honey, or some other cause, I cannot tell with my present ex- 
perience. But notwithstanding this, this hive has many advantages yet unnoticed, 
which I will proceed to mention. 

First : The bees are allowed to work in their natural order, and make each comb 
in a separate frame, capable of being lifted out at pleasure, making it what it is 
called : " movable-comb hive." It gives control of all the combs ; and all necessary 
operations may be performed without injury to a single bee 1 This principle of 
getting at the interior of a bee-hive admits of a great many minor advantages. For 
instance, my first experiment : When one of the stocks that I had transferred (in 
1856) was supposed about ready to cast a swarm, I decided on making one artifi- 
cially. I had ready an empty hive, and operated in the middle of the day, when 
the fewest bees were at home, and lifted out but a frame or two before I found the 
queen. The comb which she was on was transferred to the empty hive, and then 
placed immediately upon the stand ; the old hive with the rest of the combs and 
bees were set upon a new one, several feet distant. I depended on the returning 
bees to the old stand to make the swarm, the old queen being there, and one comb 
was deemed sufficient to keep them. Mr. Langstroth considers this method of 
making artificial swarms of much risk to the old stock, as too many bees would be 
likely to join the old queen on the old stand, and leave the old stock with too few 
bees to manage it. Yet, on this occasion, and in many subsequent operations of 
this kind, there has not been an instance where the parent stock was short of bees. 
I think, therefore, that I may safely recommend this method of making such 
swarms. I would add a caution about making them at any other time than the 
proper season — that is, in a yield of honey. It would hardly do to remove the old 
stock when the swarm had been driven out of the common hive, because, in such a 
case, nearly all the young bees recently matured would be driven out with the 
queen.* By the use "of the frames, there is another advantage in this way : I can 
ascertain whether any queen-cells are in process of construction ; and, in case none 
are far advanced, I give one to the old stock (from some other hive, of course,) that 
will mature almost immediately — an important item, because every day that a fer- 
tile queen is absent from an old stock, full of combs ready for brood, makes a differ- 
ence of some fifteen hundred to two thousand bees, amounting in a fortnight to a 
pretty good swarm. 

With the common hive, and all others with which I am acquainted, there is no 
way to prevent over-sivarming : they will frequently continue to throw out two, 
three, and even four, the last being small, thereby reducing the old stock very 
much, if it does not entirely ruin it ; but with the help of the frames, it may be 
prevented. Any time within a week after the first regular swarm, take out all the 
frames and look them over carefully, and with a knife cut out all the queen-cells 
but one. Of course, but one queen can mature, and a second swarm need not be 
expected. 

All stocks that swarm are liable to lose their queens at this season. Unless this, 
loss is ascertained by their peculiar manifestations, within two or three days or 
its occurrence, it will be too late, for the indications of it will then cease, and I 
know of no other means of ascertaining it for some weeks afterwards. By this 
time , it often happens that such stocks are past recovery. This to- me is a source 
of considerable loss, and unavoidable with the common hive, as I have a great many 
away from home. But with the frames I can ascertain this point at any time, by 
lifting out one or more after the young queen should have commenced her maternal 
duties, as eggs or brood indicate her presence without looking for her. 

Every time a stock changes its queen, which all swarming hives do annually, 
there is a loss of over 20,000 bees ! If the reader will please look over page 72, he 
will comprehend the explanation that I am about to make,, without my repeating 
that statement. The old queen leaves with the first swarm, and no more eggs are 
deposited before her successor is ready to begin, which is generally from sixteen to 
twenty days afterwards. If fifteen hundred or two thousand eggs are daily depos- 
ited — and it s-eems very evident that this is the case — there cannot be less than 
some twenty-four thousand lost. Now, if we lose a good swarm (24,000 bees), 
while waiting for a queen, we will see if there is any way to prevent so much 
swarming, and consequently loss. Let your bees, if there are stocks enough with 
whi'ih to take the trouble, be divided in two lots, at least a mile apart — two would 
be better. A soon as one or two have swarmed, queen-cells enough for several 
aitificial swarms may be obtained. Just a day or two before they mature is the 
time to operate, and if possible choose the middle of the day. Then go to a stock 
that can spare a swarm, and lift out the frames and examine tbem one by one, to 
see that the queen is not on them ; should she be seen, the frame containing her, 
with the bees attached, may be put into an empty hive for a few minutes ; the 

* See directions for this on p. 258. 



APPENDIX. 379 

other frames may then have nearly all the bees shaken from them on a sheet 
spread on the ground. If the operation is performed at any time when the bees 
are not out at work, a little care will be necessary, or you will not leave enough to 
take the necessary care of the brood. On one side of the sheet, set a hive or any 
light box, and the bees will enter as readily as a regular swarm. If sure there is 
no queen with them, they may be fastened up with thin muslin or wire-cloth tied or 
nailed over, and turn it on its side, to prevent smothering. But if the queen has 
not been seen during any part of the operation, it will be important, previous to 
shutting them up, to let them stand a few minutes, to determine by their actions if 
she is with them. If she is with them they will be very quiet, and it will be neces- 
sary to look her up and return her to the old stock, or we have gained nothing. The 
case is very much the same as if you had driven the swarm from the common box- 
hive for this purpose. Agreat deal of trouble is often saved by keeping a good look- 
out for the queen when lilting out the frames; the bees are spread over the whole sur- 
face of the combs, and it gives a good chance to see her. If well enough acquainted 
with her looks and movements to recognize her at a glance among thousands, it would 
be well to get another box, and put it on the sheet with one edge raised , &c. , prepara- 
tory to re-hiving. Shake out a few directly in front of this, and as soon as they set 
up the buzzing shake out more a little further off, and watch, as they spread out in 
travelling toward the hive, for the queen. After .disposing of her, the bees may be 
secured as directed, and taken to the other apiary. Now, for the purpose of attach- 
ing them to their new locality, it would be advisable to give them a sheet of comb 
containing brood from some other hive. Procure a queen-cell from a hive that has 
cast a swarm near a week before, so that its occupant will be nearly mature. It is 
a good plan when a stock sends out a swarm, and it is expected that queen-cells 
will be wanted, to takeout the frames immediately, and note down all the cells 
that are finished, and those nearly so ; by this means, you will know the time that 
they will mature — reckoning seven days from being sealed over. A place the size 
and' shape of the cell may be cut out of the comb, and that inserted without bruising 
or bending. This comb is now to be put in the hive with empty frames, and placed 
on a stand some feet from any others. Shake the swarm in front of the hive, and 
they will readily enter and go to work, as any regular swarm should. 

In two or three weeks, this same old stock will increase sufficiently to spare 
another swarm. One thrifty stock that keeps its queen will, in this way, spare 
three large swarms, and still be stronger in the fall than if it had cast only two in 
the natural way, and one of them quite small ! or, it will be full as strong the next 
spring as one that has cast no swarm ! It would appear, then, that when a stock is 
sufficiently obstinate to cast no swarm, we gain three by taking the matter into our 
own hands ! I would here repeat a caution given by Mr. Langstroth : " Not to 
have a large swarm building combs a week or ten days before they have a mature 
queen," because they make too many drone-cells for profit. Mr. L. recommends 
starting what he terms a " 'nucleus ' Let a few bees rear a queen from workers' 
eggs, and, when mature and depositing eggs, add the swarm." This is attended 
with considerable trouble more than the other way, as the bees have to be confined 
for a time, and you are necessitated to have them under particular care for several 
days. It is a much quicker process, and less trouble, to give the small company of 
bees a royal cell nearly mature ; you can then put in the bees, and speedily have 
the particular care off your hands. One beautiful feature about it is, you can make 
your new swarms just as strong as desired. If you do not get quite bees enough at 
the first trial, additions can be made till right ; or, if too many, they may be taken 
out again. Bees from different hives, after being taken from their own queen and 
carried to a strange place, can be united, and they will accept with apparent thank- 
fulness almost any condition, if they have a queen, or have the means to rear one. 
Even old stocks may be strengthened readily in this way. I had some half-dozen last 
June, reduced beyond any prospect of recovery, and two quarts of bees obtained 
from some strong stocks in another apiary were emptied out at the entrance of 
each hive ; these entered quietly, and labored as freely and perseveringly as if they 
had always belonged there. 

When the bees are all in one apiary, there is a plan furnished by Mr. L. of 
strengthening weak colonies, quite effectual, but not as speedily done. It consists 
of taking one or more combs filled with brood from a strong stock, and giving them 
to the weak one, which, as they mature, add strength. 

There are many advantages in having bees in two localities, besides those enumer- 
ated here, and whenever there is a possibility of giving the necessary attention it 
is to bo 'recommended. In connection with this subject, I woul ! add a caution 
strongly insisted upon by Mr. L., and that is, "Beware of increasiug your stocks 
too fast." Although the plan just given, of preventing the old queen from leaving 
the hive, will produce about one-third more bees in the course of a season, there is 
great danger, if there is not a full yield of honey, that you will have more bees in 
the fall than your honey stores will winter. Remember that great haste is attended 
with peril. 



380 APPENDIX. 

Most of our swarms, in constructing combs, will make altogether too many cells 
for the rearing of drones. There is really no necessity for twenty colonies of bees 
standing together, to rear more drones than are naturally produced by one standing 
alone. Nature had to provide drones for isolated colonies ; and, when a great num- 
ber of stocks are brought together, each one follows its instincts, and rears thous- 
ands of these useless consumers. It not only requires a great many pounds of 
honey to rear this brood, but requires the labor of a great many working'-bees after- 
wards to support them. A great many traps have been contrived to catch and 
destroy them, and several patents obtained for devices for that purpose. We are 
told that colonies deprived of their drones, store quantities incredibly large of sur- 
plus, over others not disturbed. We take these statements, however, coming from 
interested parties, with due allowance ; but we must admit that a large brood of 
drones cannot be maintained from May till perhaps the end of summer without 
consuming much honey uselessly. Now, if there is a great saving in destroying the 
drones after they are reared, how much more might be saved if they were not 
reared at all, and in their stead there were produced five workers for every three 
of the drones ? With these frames we can do it, and go beyond any chance or 
caprice of the bees, and prevent their rearing drones ! When ascertaining the con- 
dition of the new stocks in spring, any frame containing drone-cells, or more than a 
very few, should be taken away, and replaced with worker-cells. When a third or 
half are drone-cells, that part may be cut out, and a piece of the same size (worker- 
cells) fitted in the place ; such pieces can be held in place with a little melted bees- 
wax and rosin poured round the edge. We thus take the matter in our hands, 
because the bees, without the cells in which to rear the drones, could not, if they 
would, waste so much material worse than uselessly'. I would remark here — with- 
out going into full explanations to prove it — that I consider the eggs of an impreg- 
nated queen all one thing : that if deposited in drone-cells, they produce drones ; 
that if in worker-cells, workers, &c. I have not, as yet, in any one instance, taken 
all the drone-cells from a stock, but have left a few square iuches, because it is not 
ascertained what effect a total deprivation might have. In several instances, I have 
taken three hundred square inches, which would have afforded cells enough to ex- 
tend the number of drones to thousands. Whenever it is necessary to change 
combs, for the sake of adding to the winter stores of a colony, I would recommend 
taking those containing the drone-cells if possible, so as to be sure that they will be 
emptied before the bees will be likely to use them for brood. They should be taken 
away and carefully saved, to put in the surplus boxes — at least all that are not 
much colored. The more combs you can put into a box the sooner it will be filled, 
and having these large cells filled with honey, is the best use to which they can be 
applied. 

On page 322, 1 have given a process of uniting two small families for winter. It 
will be seen readily, that, by the help of the frames, it is a very simple matter, and 
much less trouble. The frames containing the most honey are put into one hive 
with the bees. 

All bee-keepers know that strong colonies are not destroyed by the worm in any 
hive ; but before anything can be done to assist those that are attacked, in all but 
this, the worm has usually done his mischief among the combs, whether much or 
little, and come to the bottom, where he' may be dispatched. But when we 
can get a fair .side-view of a comb, as by lifting out a frame, we can detect his local- 
ity, and attack him in his stronghold. The point of a knife and the thumb will form 
a kind of forceps very efficient in dragging him from his covered thoroughfare, long 
before he could be routed by the bees. Very few stocks of bees are so strong but 
they may be benefitted materially by this kind of assistance. I have taken a half- 
dozen from a comb, when judging from the strength of the stock it belonged to, 
there would be no danger of losing it ; but the fact that a colony survives the 
injury of a brood of worms, does not prove that it has received no damage. 

I have, for the last few years, wintered all my bees in the house. To get rid of 
the moisture most effectually, I still turn the common hive bottom up, as directed 
on page 340. But as a consequence, all dust and dead bees must fall into the top of 
the hive. This is objectionable, yet it is decidedly better than mouldy combs, that 
are engendered when right side up. With the movable frames I have only to 
remove the honey-board from the top, and the hive is effectually ventilated when 
right side up, and presenting this advantage over the box-hive — all dead bees and 
filth fall to the bottom and out of the combs, leaving them entirely clean. Should 
the combs be made crooked, so that it is impossible to take them out, there is yet thia 
advantage, of wintering them without inverting the hive, and ventilating thoroughly. 
Such c i my readers as have been troubled about their bees standing on their heads 
all winter, will see that, with this hive, there is a chance for them to remain right 
side up, and still be fully ventilated. 

I have now given some, but not all the advantages of the movable frames. It is 
not very likely we have got the best form of the hive. I have one quite different 



APPENDIX. 381 

from Mr. Langstroth's, the patentee, but whether it is better, is for others to de- 
cide. I can only say that I am suited with it better than with his. A few will liko 
mine, because I do ; others, his, because he recommends it. I have not the least 
objection to any one's improving it or using it, as cither of us do. There is not the 
least doubt in my mind that whoever realizes the greatest possible benefits from his bees, 
will have to retain the movable combs in some form. The principle — movable combs — 
can hardly be dispensed with. 

I would suggest to those who are about beginning with them, to start with a form 
that can be retained. One set of frames should fit any hive. It is very perplexing 
to have two sizes of them. Very likely the first occasion there is of changing them, 
it will be with these odd ones. If the reader is not satisfied with the form that I 
give, I would advise consulting Mr. Langstroth's work for his model : while com 
paring them, something new and superior may be suggested. 

I make the hive as follows : Get boards, 12% inches wide, and 1 inch in thick- 
ness ; cut two lengths, 21% inches, and two 12 inches. If to be painted, they are 
planed on both sides — otherwise, only the inside — these hives having frames inside, 
to assist the new swarm in holding fast ; the planed surface does no harm, and is 
an advantage, by saving the bees the trouble of waxing over the rough places. The 
two shorter pieces are rabbeted out on the inside upper edge a half-inch square, to 
receive the ends of the frames. The whole is now thoroughly nailed together, mak- 
ing a box without top or bottom, the inside just 12 by 19% inches square, and 12% 
deep. In one end is an entrance, 3 or 4 inches long by %-inch deep at the bottom, 
and an inch hole half-way to the top.* A strip of wood, about %-inch thick by 
2 inches wide, and 14 inches long, is nailed to each end, near the top, as handles. 
The stand and roof are made like those recommended on page 138, only longer. 
The frames for the inside — the point constituting its superiority — are made as fol- 
lows : First, get out a triangular strip of wood, 18 inches long — the square, an inch 
— this is nailed to another, %-inch thick, 1% wide, and 20% inches long ; each end 
projects beyond the triangular piece, 1% inch. Next, get two strips, %-inch wide by 
%-inch thick, and 11 inches in length, for the ends ; then one for the bottom, %-inch 
wide, % thick, and 18 inches long, to correspond with the triangular piece at the top. 
Use small finishing nails, and drive through the ends of the short pieces into the 
end of the triangular strip, and the one of the same length at the bottom. Mr. Lang- 
stroth recommends that these end-pieces be a right-angled triangle, instead of the 
shape I have — the flat surface outward. It is said the bees will aim their comb for 
the angle, and are less likely to get one side near the end. But whether it will 
prove enough better for the extra trouble, is doubtful. When finished, we have a 
frame in this shape, 18 inches long, by 10 
deep, inside. This will go down into the hive, 
and leave a half-inch space between the end 
of the frame and the end of the hive. The 
strip that is nailed to the triangular one, with 
the end projecting, rests on the rabbeting, and 
supports it — this is the only part that touches 
the hive. Eight of these frames will go in a 
hive that is 12 inches wide, 1% inches being the right distance from center to cen- 
ter. To keep them the right distance apart at the bottom, a stick, % by % of an 
inch square, is put across the middle of the hive, % of an inch from the bottom, with 
\AAA/\AAA/ wire Draces m tms form. Two small mortises, 
Y Y %-inch deep on each side, hold it. It may be put in 

' ° ° ' " 5 ' a after the hive is together, by bending it a little. 

Very small annealed wire will do ; it is cut in pieces long enough to reach through 
and turn over to the upper side, which hold them firmly. The points or angles 
should be just 1% inches apart, and the bottom of the frame should come down 
between them within % of an inch of touching the cross-piece. 

The proper size for a hive, as already recommended for this latitude (2,000 cubic 
inches), will take over seven and less than eight of these frames. I intend to have 
some of these hives only wide enough for six frames (9 inches), and then larger, 
until I can put in ten. At present, I have them only for eight and nine. The advan- 
tages of different sizes are, that a moderate swarm will fill six frames with combs, 
and need about all of them for brood ; then, if we put on the surplus boxes, we 
shall get nearly all the honey stored in them that is collected in June and July, 
which is of a much better quality than is gathered in August from buckwheat. 

* Notwithstanding my endeavor to be explicit, I find that I failed to be compre- 
hended by all my readers with regard to the entrance. The directions on pages 
170 and 203 are not satisfactory to all. A few have inquired " if I make no other 
passage but the hole in the side?" I would say here, that I consider it of but 
little consequence whether the front side is raised for the entrance of the bees, or a 
passage cut out like the one now described. I have hives both ways. 




382 



APPENDIX. 



But when these flowers begin to yield honey, the frames may be put into a larger 
hive with two or three empty frames, and the boxes taken off. This inferior honey 
will serve for winter stores as well as the other, and is worth one-third less in mar- 
ket. Ir± the spring, if thought best, the number of frames may be reduced again to 
sis or seven, and will give an opportunity to take away most of the drone-comb, 
and leave cells in abundance for raising workers. If worker-combs a*-e taken 
away, they should be saved for new swarms — the drone-cells, when white, for 
surplus boxes. "Where there is no buckwheat raised, the swarms might as well be 
hived in a full-sized hive at first, as it would make no difference when they secured 
their winter stores. 

The top easiest made, of wnich I have a few, is %-inch board, 21 >£ inches long 
by 14 wide, clamped at the ends, and a rabbeting cut around the edge, like the 
top described for the common hive ; the passages to the surplus boxes are inch 
holes. These boards, notwithstanding the clamps, will warp a little, being kept 
moist by the bees on the under side. These will barely answer. Another, that 
will keep its shape better, is made of several pieces. Two of them are 21 % inches 
long by 1)4 wide ; the others, 11 inches long, and two 6 inches wide, and two 4>£ 
inches wide. The nails are driven through the narrow strips edgewise into the 
ends of the others. It presents this appearance. The 
open spaces are for the passages for the bees into the 
boxes, which set over them, and are covered with a box 
that fits on this rabbeting, similar to those for the other 
hive. The boxes are already described on pages 51 
and 52. 

Both kinds of the tops — I might say honey-boards — 
described, are simply laid on the top of the hive. Others 
make them with heavy clamps on the under side, where they project over the 
of the hive, but I have found such inconvenient on some occasions. This point is not 
very important. 

I have now described the hive as I use it, yet I am not sure but I should make an 
alteration if I were to start again. It would be only to take an inch off the height 
of the frames, making them nine instead of ten inches deep, and have one or two 
more in number. The difference is so trifling, however, that I have no idea of 
changing now. The combs would not be quite a.s heavy when filled throughout, 
and less liable to break in moving. I have had an accident in that line on a warm 
day. Part of the combs in two stocks settled down on the bottom of the frames, 
and then leaned against the next one, leaving a space of some inches at the top, 
which the bees had commenced filling, before discovered, with new combs. Hence 
it was necessary for some surgical operations, not in setting broken bones, but 
broken combs. I provided myself with splints twelve and a half inches long, half 
an inch wide, and one-fourth in thickness. With the help of an assistant I got the 
combs back into the frames straight, and put two or three upright splints between 
it and the next frame, which kept it steady till the bees secured it by waxing it fast 
again at the top. 

As an additional support to these combs, and to give a chance for the bees to 
change position between different combs in winter, I have made a division in the 
frames the present summer (1858). I tried two methods like these. 




VM///MW -■■ 




The horizontal one is simply a triangular strip like the one at the top. The bees 
leave spaces on the top side for a passage, and begin another comb again on the 
angle, under side. The other division is a square of three-fourths of an inch, sawed 
in two diagonally, and set up in the middle with the flat surfaces one-fourth of an 
inch apart. Of their utility, on the whole, I am yet in doubt. Several of my own 
and neighbors' swarms, put into these frames with the horizontal division, have not 
followed the angular edge uniformly. Those divided the other way on some 
occasions go straight, on some others on one side, and crooked nearly at right 
angles on the other. The divisions may not be the cause of the variations, yet 
there is room for suspicion in that direction, because last year (1857), with frames 
without any, I had much better work. In these whole combs I made passages for 
the bees through them by cutting a half inch hole through each with a small knife, 
in November. There is not a tenth part of the difficulty attending it that one 
unaccustomed to it would suppose. But still it requires some courage ; and I would 



APPENDIX. 383 

advise that any one who has courage to do it, had hettci' take this course till satisfied 
that this dividing the frame has no influence in producing the crooked combs. 

I'hese frames are not made to advantage without power of some sort, and a 
circular saw. The flat strips are cut from boards the right length and thickness 
without the least difficulty. The triangular one is cut by securing on the saw table 
a board of suitable length and width, with one edge raised a few inches, while the 
other rests on the table by the side of the saw ; a guide on the other side of the 
saw, the same as for other sawing, guides it. It is necessary to turn the board over 
for every piece sawed from it. A little practice will adjust the table (or board on it) 
to cut a triangular piece every time. 

The frame, while being nailed together, should be held as near square as possible. 
A frame fastened to the table to hold the pieces in shape is a great help. 

To operate with these frames a person requires a little more energy than with the 
box hives. The liability for being stung is somewhat increased, and unless a man 
can find sufficient nerve to take advantage of some of the facilities that the movable 
frames offer, when suitably protected, had better adhere to the simpler form. 
There are some men too ignorant, too conceited, too careless, too much engaged 
otherwise, to be fit to keep bees in any hive. But such as are qualified ought to 
know how to make the most of them. As for myself, I seldom use any protection — 
sometimes throw a handkerchief over the ears and back of the head. There is a 
way of avoiding stings in the face, acquired after working among them awhile, that 
is very difficult to describe, further than holding the head down. It is not to be 
expected that many will take the risks for all the advantages ; I will therefore, in 
addition to the protection mentioned on page 284, describe a "bee hat" recom- 
mended by Mr. Langstroth. " It is made of wire-cloth, the meshes of which are 
too fine to admit a bee, but coarse enough to allow a free circulation of air, and to 
permit distant sight. The wire-cloth should be first fastened together in a circular 
shape, like a hat, and made large enough to go very easily over the head ; its top 
may be of cotton cloth, and it should have the same material fastened around its 
lower edge. If the top is made of sole leather it will serve a better purpose. A 
piece of wire-cloth, one foot wide by two and a half feet long, will make a good fit 
for most persons, although persons with unusually long noses will require a larger 
size. It ought slightly to rest upon the crown of the head." He also recommended 
" India rubber gloves" as impenetrable to the sting, and better than any other 
covering for the hands. 

With respect to this hat, some of my assistants have used such as were made 
with the wire-cloth only six inches wide, with a good length of cotton cloth attached 
below, the whole weight resting on the head, which can be moved about much better 
than if it rested on the shoulders. It is made by first cutting out a thin board the 
right diameter, to which the upper edge of the wire-cloth is nailed. A place in the 
centre is cut out large enough to fit the upper part of the head ; the inner edge is 
lined with cotton or other soft material to prevent it being painful, and the outside 
(top) covered with any light-colored cloth to keep off the sun. A person with such 
a protection over the face ought to feel quite safe, even if the bees are disposed to 
sting. It is a pity that any one with ability, inclination and time to devote to the 
business, should be deterred through fear. 

To render bees less disposed to sting, Mr. L. recommends the utility of " sugar 
water," because a bee that has sweets with which to fill itself, or one that is filled, 
has no disposition to make an attack. To apply it, — take off the honey-board, (the 
top of the hive) and " with a fine sprinkling pot pour water well sweetened with 
sugar directly on the frames, bees and combs." The bees, finding themselves 
surrounded with the sweets of life, have not time to resent anything, but sip it 
greedily. When this has been done thoroughly, and the bees are filled, they may 
receive almost any amount of insult without resentment. The combs may be lifted 
out and examined, and returned with impunity. This method, I find, when many are 
to be examined, takes too much time. I prefer using smoke, although they are not 
always as quiet, yet are sufficiently so for me at least. That made from tobacco is 
best. A person using a pipe or cigar will find it very convenient ; but lest I am 
accused of encouraging smoking, by furnishing an excuse, I will give another 
method of using it. Take old cotton cloth some twelve inches square, and cover it 
with common smoking tobacco about one-fourth of an inch deep ; begin on one side 
and roll it up loosely — with a needle and thread fasten it in three or four places ; it 
will burn a long time and not- blaze. The smoke of this blown on the bees will 
bring them into submission readily ; such as are at the top of the frames will at 
once go down out of sight ; others that appear will readily yield to the same 
treatment. The fire can now be put down on some handy stool or other convenient 
place — perhaps one corner of the hive — it will continue to burn, and be ready at 
any moment when needed. Punk (rotton wood) is another thing strongly recom- 
mended by Mr. L. for this purpose ; it is more convenient, but not so efficient in 
quieting them after they have been disturbed a few times. Any hard wood that 
has just sufficient strength to hold together is good ; split or saw it into pieces one 



384 appendix. 

and a half inches square and dry it thoroughly ; light ono end — blow the smoke 
among the bees as occasion requires. 

When about ready to examine the combs of any hive, it is well to have a spare 
empty hive at hand to receive and hold tho first frame taken out, or set it in tho 
place of the old one, and the frames can all be put ia as they are taken out and 
examined. The hive just emptied can now be cleaned if it needs it, and be ready 
to receive the bees and comb of another when necessary ; in this way every hive 
in the apiary may be thoroughly scalded and cleaned if we wish it. When the 
frame rests on the rabbeting the bees will wax it fast with propolis. A small bit of 
wood or iron will be needed to go in between the frames to pry them loose — a small 
chisel will do. Break all loose before lifting out any — the bees resent the slight jar 
of this operation more than lifting them out, and will want a little more smoke to 
quiet them. Begin two or three frames from the one you design taking out, to gain 
a little room by moving them away from it, each one a little nearer the next ; then 
take hold of each end near where it rests on the rabbeting — raise it carefully, if 
possible without striking the ends or other frames ; this, when examined, can be put 
in the other hive standing by for the purpose. "When they are returned, each comb 
should generally occupy the same relative position — the little irregularities or curves 
will then fit each other exactly. The bees that are on the under side of the honey- 
board may be jarred off in front of the hive, by striking one edge down suddenly ; 
it then may be laid on the hive without crushing any bees. But if the hive to be 
examined contains surplus boxes, we must manage differently, yet they need not 
be disturbed. Take off the cover to the boxes and turn it bottom up ; the honey- 
board is set over it, without injuring any bees that happen to be on the under side. 
To put it back without killing many requires a little care, as some of them 'Will be 
just where they will be caught between the top of the hive and board. By sliding 
it a little you can usually save the bees 

A swarm of bees is not as readily hived in one of these hives as the old box ; 
there is no difficulty however — it only takes a few minutes longer, and probably 
less trouble than with many other patents. I have found it best to get the bees in' 
a light box, and as soon as quiet, carry them to the stand they are to occupy, take 
off the honey-board and adjust the frames, raise the side of the hive an inch ; now 
jar a part of the bees (say a quart, near as possible) from the box directly on the 
top of the frames ; if no assistant is present to slide the honey-board lenthwise over 
the frames, the box must be set down while it is done. The balance of the bees 
may now be shaken by the side of the hive as soon as those inside commence 
humming, and they will soon enter. 

I have several correspondents who have described and recommended a hiver used 
by themselves, which may answer instead of the box just described. I had used a 
similar contrivance, however, to some extent, before the publication of the first 
edition of the " Mysteries," and abandoned it, as the trouble and delay often more 
than balanced the advantages. This might have been in consequence of some 
defective arrangement. Those described consist generally " of a box about six 
inches square by twelve in length, made of light thin boards, with a great many 
holes through the sides — some have them without ends. Poles of different lengths 
are provided for the different heights that the bees cluster. As soon as the swarm 
commence gathering on any particular branch, the box is held as close to it as 
possible," and they will often, but not always, enter it. " When most of them are 
quietly inside, bring them down and hive them." I think if such a box would pay 
with the common hive, it would with this. 

To transfer the bees and comb from the common hive into one of these frames, 
choose one with straight combs. I have found it best to first drive out the bees, 
(for directions see page 32) then take off tbe side of the hive and carefully cut out 
the combs. If it contains brood, lay it on some yielding surface, made by smoothly 
folding several thicknesses of cloth ; put on a frame for a measure and cut the 
comb to fit exactly ; then with resin and beeswax melted together, and poured 
around the edge, it will bo soldered fast. Otherwise the combs may be held by 
splints on each side, and tied together at the ends. When the combs are all 
secured and in the hive, the bees may be shaken out by it, which should occupy 
the old stand. 

In transporting bees in this hive, it will be necessary to use considerable care to 
prevent breaking combs, as they cannot be inverted like the common one. Springs 
should be used invariably, as well as to have straw under them. The hive is 
prepared by simply fastening the honey-board with screws or nails, and when the 
frames have recently been broken loose, they will need fastening in their places 
with large tacks, but the propolis will hold them when not broken beforehand. 
Wire-cloth is put over the openings in the top and entrances. A cloth is then spread 
on the straw in the bottom of tho wagon, and the hive set directly on it. Drive 
carefully, and avoid heavy shaking, and when the hive is taken from the wagon, 
take the cloth with it. Moving them in hot weather should be avoided ; also, 
when extremely cold. 



RECOMMENDATIONS. 



" We do not know what better proof could be given of the value 
of Mr. Quinby's teachings in reference to the best method of keep- 
ing bees, than the results he himself yearly arrives at. Two or 
three years ago we noticed as a remarkable fact, that he brought 
to this market 4,000 pounds of nice honey. But the present year 
he has sold here 22,000 pounds ! all produced by himself and im- 
mediate neighbors." — American Agriculturist, N. Y. 



" We can safely recommend Quinby's ' Mysteries of Bee-keeping. 1 " 
— Country Gentleman, Albany. 



" We know Mr. Quinby to be one of the best informed men on 
the subject of the Honey Bee, in America. We speak advisedly, 
for we have visited his place, and witnessed the operations of his 
interesting and numerous family." — Y alley Farmer, Ky. 



" The work you need is entitled, ' Mysteries of Bee-keeping Ex- 
plained.' " — Life Illustrated, N. Y. 



" I shall here quote from one of the most common-sense works on 
practical bee-keeping which has ever been written in our language, 
and which I would strongly recommend every bee-keeper to pur 
chase ; I refer to the * Mysteries, fyc.,' by iSl. Quinby. This treatise 
bears marks on almost every page, of being the work of an accurate, 
experienced and thoroughly honest observer." — L. L. Langstrotii, 
luthor of " Hive and Honey Bee." 



All the Booh on this Catalogue sent by Mail, to any part of the Union, 
free of postage, upon receipt of Price. 

CATALOGUE OF BOOKS 

on 

AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE, 

PUBLISHED BY 

.A.. O. IVIOOIRE <3c CO., 

(Late 0. M. Saxton 8f Co.,) 
No. 140 FULTON STREET, NEW YORK. 

SUITABLE FOE 

SCHOOL, TOWN, AGRICULTURAL, & PRIVATE LIBRARIES. 



AMERICAN FARMER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA, $4 00 

As a Book of Reference for the Farmer or Gardener, this 

Work is superior to any other. It contains Reliable Information for the Cultivation of 
every variety of Field and Garden Crops, the use of all kinds of Manures, descriptions 
and figures of American insects ; and is, indeed, an Agricultural Library in itself, con- 
taining twelve hundred pages, octavo, and is illustrated by numerous engravings of 
Grasses, Grains, Animals, Implements, Insects, &c, &c. By Gouverneur Emerson of 
Pennsylvania. 

AMERICAN WEEDS AND USEFUL PLANTS, 1 50 

An Illustrated Edition of Agricultural Botany ; An Enu- 
meration and Description of Weeds and Useful Plants which merit the notice or 
require the attention of American Agriculturists. By Wm. Darlington, M. D. Re- 
vised, with Additions, by George Thurber, Prof, of Mat. Med. and Botany in the New 
York College of Pharmacy. Illustrated with nearly 300 Figures, drawn expressly for 
this work. 

ALLEN'S (R. L.) AMERICAN FARM BOOK, 1 00 

Or a Compend of American Agriculture ; being a Practical 

Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roots, Fruits, Cotton, 
Tobacco, Sugar Cane, Rice, and every Staple Product of the United States ; with the 
best methods of Planting, Cultivating and Preparation for Market. Illustrated with more 
than 100 engravings. 

ALLEN'S (R. L.) DISEASES OF DOMESTIC ANIMALS, - - 75 

Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, 

Sheep, Swine, Poultry and Farm Dogs, with Directions for their Management, Breeding, 
Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and Preparation for a Profitable Market ; also, their 
Diseases and Remedies, together with full Directions for the Management of the Dairy, 
and the comparative Economy and Advantages of "Working Animals, — the Horse, Mule, 
Oxen, &c. 

ALLENS (L. F.) RURAL ARCHITECTURE, 1 25 

Being a Complete Description of Farm Houses, Cottages and 

Out Buildings, comprising Wood Houses, Workshops, Tool Houses, Carriage and Wagon 
Houses, Stables, Smoke and Ash Houses, Ice Houses, Apiaries or Bee Houses, Poultry 
Houses, Rabbitry, Dovecote, Piggery, Barns and Sheds for Cattle, &c, &c. ; together 
with Lawns, Pleasure Grounds and Parks ; the Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Garden ; 
also, the best method of conducting water into Cattle Yards and Houses. Beautifully 
illustrated. 

ALLEN (J. FISK) ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE, - - 1 00 

A Practical Treatise on the Culture and Treatment of the 

Grape Vine, embracing its History, with Directions for its Treatment in the United 
States of America, in the Open Air and under Glass Structures, with and without 
Artificial Heat, 



3ooJcs published by A. O. Moore & Co. 

AMERICAN ARCHITECT, 6 00 

Comprising Original Designs of Cheap Country and Village 

Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans and Directions, and an Estimate of the Cost 
of each Design. By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second Series, 4to, bound in 
lvol. 

AMERICAN FLORIST'S GUIDE, 75 

Comprising the American Rose Culturist, and Every Lady 

her own Flower Gardener. 
BARRY'S FRUIT GARDEN, - 1 25 

A Treatise, Intended to Explain and Illustrate the Physi- 

ology of Fruit Trees, the Theory and Practice of all Operations connected with the 
Propagation, Transplanting, Pruning and Training of Orchard and Garden Trees, as 
Standards, Dwarfs, Pyramids, Espalier, &c. The Laying out and Arranging different 
kinds of Orchards and Gardens, the selection of suitable varieties for different purposes 
and localities, Gathering and Preserving Fruits, Treatment of Diseases, Destruction of 
Insects, Description and Uses of Implements, &c. Illustrated with upwards of 150 
Figures. By P. Baery, of the Mount Hope Nurseries, Rochester, N. Y. 

BEMENT'S (C. N.) RABBIT FANCIER, 50 

A Treatise on the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding and General 

Management of Rabbits, with Remarks upon their Diseases and Remedies, to which are 
added Full Directions for the Construction of Hutches, Rabbitries, &c, together with 
Recipes for Cooking and Dressing for the Table. Beautifully illustrated. 

BLAKE'S (REV. JOHN L.) FARMER AT HOME, - - - - 1 25 

A Family Text Book for the Country ; being a Cyclopedia 

of Agricultural Implements and Productions, and of the more important topics in 
Domestic Economy, Science and Literature, adapted to Rural Life. By Rev. Johx L. 
Blake, D. D. 

BOUSSINGAULT'S (J. B.) RURAL ECONOMY, 1 25 

Or, Chemistry Applied tO Agriculture ; presenting Distinctly 

and in a Simple Manner the Principles of Farm Management, the Preservation and Use of 
Manures, the Nutrition and Food of Animals, and the General Economy of Agriculture. 
The work is the fruit of a long life of study and experiment, and its perusal will aid the 
farmer greatly in obtaining a practical and scientific knowledge of his profession. 

BROWNE'S AMERICAN BIRD FANCIER, ------ 25 

The Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management and Peculi- 

arities of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with engravings. 

BROWNE'S AMERICAN POULTRY YARD, - 1 00 

Comprising the Origin, History and Description of the 

Different Breeds of Domestic Poultry, with Complete Directions for their Breeding, 
Crossing, Rearing, Fattening and Preparation for Market ; including specific directions 
for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of the Principal Diseases to which they are 
subject, drawn from authentic sources and personal observation. Illustrated with 
numerous engravings. 

BROWNE'S (D. JAY) FIELD BOOK OF MANURES, - - - - 1 25 

Or, American Muck Book ; Treating of the Nature, Properties, 

Sources, History and Operations of all the Principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common 
Use, with specific directions for their Preservation and Application to the Soil and^to 
Crops ; drawn from authentic sources, actual experience and personal observation, as 
combined with the Leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. 

BRLDGEMAN'S (THOS.) YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT, - - 1 50 

In Three Parts; Containing Catalogues of Garden and Flower 

Seed, with Practical Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Cu nary Vege- 
tables, Flowers, Fruit Trees, the Grape Vine, &c. ; to which is added a Calendar to each 
part, showing the work necessary to be done in the various departments each month 
of the year. One volume octavo. 

BRLDGEMAN'S KITCHEN GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR, K Cloth, 50 

" " " « Cloth, 60 



Books published by A. O. Moore & Co. 3 

BRIDGEMAN'S FLORIST'S GUIDE, X Cloth, 60 

" " " Cloth, 60 

BRIDGEMAN'S FRUIT CULTIVATOR'S MANUAL, - - % Cloth, 50 

" " " "•■-'- Cloth, 60 

BRECK'S BOOK OF FLOWERS, 1 00 

In which are Described all the Various Hardy Herbaceous 

Perennials, Annuals, Shrubs, Plants and Evergreen Trees, with Directions for their 
Cultivation. 

BUIST'S (ROBERT) AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN DIRECTORY, 1 25 

Containing Practical Directions for the Culture of Plants, 

in the Flower Garden, Hothouse, Greenhouse, Rooms or Parlor Windows, for every 
month in the Year ; with a Description of the Plants most desirable in each, the nature 
of the Soil and situation best adapted to their Growth, the Proper Season for Trans- 
planting, &c. ; with Instructions for erecting a Hothouse, Greenhonse, and Laying out 
a Flower Garden ; the whole adapted to either Large or Small Gardens, with Instruc- 
tions for Preparing the Soil, Propagating, Planting, Pruning, Training and Fruiting the 
Grape Vine. 

BUIST'S (ROBERT) FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER, ... 75 

Containing Plain and Accurate Descriptions of all the 

Different Species and Varieties of Culinary Vegetables, with their Botanical, English, 
French and German names, alphabetically arranged, with the Best Mode of Cultivat- 
ing them in the Garden or under Glass ; also Descriptions and Character of the most 
Select Fruits, their Management, Propagation, &c. By Robert Buist, author of the 
"American Flower Garden Directory," &c. 

CHINESE SUGAR CANE AND SUGAR-MAKING, ... - 25 

Its History, Culture and Adaptation to the Soil, Climate, 

and Economy of the United States, with an Account of Various Processes of Manu- 
facturing Sugar. Drawn from authentic sources, by Charles F. Stansburt, A. M., late 
Commissioner at the Exhibition of all Nations at London. 

CHORLTON'S GRAPE-GROWER'S GUIDE, 60 

Intended Especially for the American Climate. Being a 

Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine in each department of Hot- 
house, Cold Grapery, Retarding House and Out-door Culture. With Plans for the con- 
struction of the Requisite Buildings, and giving the best methods for Heating the same. 
Every department being fully illustrated. By William Chorlton. 

COBBETT'S AMERICAN GARDENER, ------- 50 

A Treatise on the Situation, Soil and Laying-out of Gardens, 

and the Making and Managing of Hotbeds and Greenhouses, and on the Propagation 
and Cultivation of the several sorts of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits and Flowers. 

COTTAGE AND FARM BEE-KEEPER, 50 

A Practical Work, by a Country Curate. 

COLE'S AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK, 50 

Containing Directions for Raising, Propagating and Manag- 

ing Fruit Trees, Shrubs and Plants ; with a Description of the Best Varieties of Fruit, 

including New and Valuable Kinds. 

COLE'S AMERICAN VETERINARIAN, 50 

Containing Diseases of Domestic Animals, their Causes, Symp- 

toms and Remedies ; with Rules for Restoring and Preserving Health by good manage- 
ment ; also for Training and Breeding. 

DADD'S AMERICAN CATTLE DOCTOR, 1 00 

Containing the Necessary Information for Preserving the 

Health and Curing the Diseases of Oxen, Cows, Sheep and Swine, with a Great Variety 
of Original Recipes an 1 Valuable Information in reference to Farm and Dairy Manage- 
ment, whereby every Man can be his own Cattle Doctor. The principles taught in this 
work are, that all Medication shall be subservient to Nature — that all Medicines must be 
sanative in their operation, and administered with a view of aiding the vital powers, 
instead of depressing, as heretofore, with the lancet or by poison. By G. H. Dadd, M. D. , 
Veterinary practitioner. 



4 Books published by A. O. Moore & Co. 

DADD'S MODERN HOESE DOCTOK, 1 00 

An American Book for American Farmers ; Containing Practi- 
cal Observations on the Causes, Nature and Treatment of Disease and Lameness of 
Horses, embracing the Most Recent and Approved Methods, according to an entightened 
system of Veterinary Practice, for the Preservation and Restoration of Health. With 
illustrations. 

DADD'S ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE HOESE, Plain, . 2 00 

" " " " w Colored Plates, 4 00 

With Anatomical and Questional Illustrations ; Containing, 

also, a Series of Examinations on Equine Anatomy and Philosophy, with Instructions hi 
reference to Dissection and the mode of making Anatomical Preparations ; to which is 
added a Glossary of Veterinary Technicalities, Toxicological Chart, and Dictionary of 
Veterinary Science. 

DANA'S MUCK MANUAL, FOE THE USE OF FAEMEES, - - 1 00 

A Treatise on the Physical and Chemical Properties of Soils 

and Chemistry of Manures ; including, also, the subject of Composts, Artificial Manures 
and Irrigation. A new edition, with a Chapter on Bones and Superphosphates. 

DANA'S PEIZE ESSAY ON MANUEES, 25 

Submitted to the Trustees of the Massachusetts Society for 

Promoting Agriculture, for their Premium. By Samuel H. Dana. 
DOMESTIC AND OENAMENTAL POULTEY, Plain Plates, . . . l 00 
" " " Colored Plates, . - 2 00 

A Treatise on the History and Management of Ornamental 

and Domestic Poultry. By Rev. Edmund Saul Dixon, A. M., with large additions by 
J. J. Kerr, M. D. Illustrated with sixty -five Original Portraits, engraved expressly for 
this work. Fourth edition, revised. 

DOWNING'S (A. J.) LANDSCAPE GARDENING, 3 50 

Eevised, Enlarged and Newly Illustrated, by Henry Win- 

throp Sargent. This Great Work, which has accomplished so much in elevating the 
American Taste for Rural Improvements, is now rendered doubly interesting and 
valuable by the experience of all the Prominent Cultivators of Ornamental Trees in tbe 
United States, and by the descriptions of American Places, Private Residences, Central 
Park, New York, Llewellyn Park, New Jersey, and a full account of the Newer Decidu- 
ous and Evergreen Trees and Shrubs. The illustrations of this edition consist of seven 
superb steel plate engravings, by Smtllie, Hinshelwood, Duthie and others ; besides one 
hundred engravings on wood and stone, of the best American Residences and Parks, with 
Portraits of many New or Remarkable Trees and Shrubs. 

DOWNING'S (A. J.) EUEAL ESSAYS, 3 00 

On Horticulture, Landscape Gardening, Rural Architecture, 

Trees, Agriculture, Fruit, with his Letters from England. Edited, with a Memoir of the 
Author, by George Wm. Curtis, and a Letter to his Friends, by Frederika Bremer, and 
an elegant Steel Portrait of the Author. 

EASTWOOD (B.) ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE CEANBEEEY, 50 

With a Description of the Best Varieties. By B. Eastwood, 

" Septimus," of the New York Tribune. Illustrated. 
ELLIOTT'S WESTERN FRUIT BOOK, - - - - - - - 1 25 

A New Edition of this Work, Thoroughly Revised. Em- 
bracing all the New and Valuable Fruits, with the Latest Improvements in their Cultiva- 
tion, up to January, 1859. especially adapted to the wants of Western Fruit Growers ; 
full of excellent illustrations. By F. R. Elliott, Pomologist, late of Cleveland, Ohio, now 
of St. Louis. 

EVEEY LADY HEE OWN FLOWEE GAEDENER, - - - - 50 

Addressed to the Industrious and Economical only ; containing 

simple and practical Directions for Cultivating Plants and Flowers ; also, Hints for the 
Management of Flowers in Rooms, with brief Botanical Descriptions of Plants and 
Flowers. The whole in plain and simple language. By Louisa Johnson. 



Books published by A. O. Mooke & Co. 5 

FARM DRAINAGE, 1 00 

The Principles, Processes and Effects of Draining Land, 

with Stones, Wood, Drain-plows, Open Ditches, and especially with Tiles ; includiag 
Tables of Rainfall, Evaporation, Filtration, Excavation, capacity of Pipes, cost and num- 
ber to the acre. With more than 100 illustrations. By the Hon. Henry F. French, of 
New Hampshire. 

EESSENDEN'S (T. G.) AMERICAN EITCHEN GARDENER, - - 50 

Containing Directions for the Cultivation of Vegetables and 

Garden Fruits . Cloth. 
FESSENDENS COMPLETE FARMER AND AMERICAN GARDENER, 1 25 

Rural Economist and New American Gardener ; Containing 

a Compendious Epitome of the most Important Branches of Agriculture and Rural 
Economy ; with Practical Directions on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables, includ- 
ing Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By Thomas G. Fessenden. 2 vols, in 1. 

FIELD'S PEAR CULTURE, 1 00 

The Pear Garden ; or, a Treatise on the Propagation and 

Cultivation of the Pear Tree, with Instructions for its Management from the Seedling to 
the Bearing Tree. By Thomas W. Field. ' 

FISH CULTURE, 100 

A Treatise on the Artificial Propagation of Fish, and the 

Construction of Ponds, with the Description and Habits of such kinds of Fish as are most 
suitable for Pisciculture. By Theodatus Garlick, M. D. , Vice-President of the Cleveland 
Academy of Nat. Science. 

FLINT ON GRASSES, - - - - 1 25 

A Practical Treatise on Grasses and Forage Plants ; Com- 
prising their Natural History, Comparative Nutritive Value, Methods of Cultivation, Cut- 
ting, Curing and the* Management of Grass Lands. By Charles L. Flint, A. M., Secre- 
tary of the Mass. State Board of Agriculture. 

GUEN0N ON MILCH COWS, - - - 60 

A Treatise on Milch Cows, whereby the Quality and Quantity of 

Milk which any Cow will give may be accurately determined by observing Natural 
Marks or External Indications alone ; the length of time she will continue to give Milk, 
&c, &c. By M. Francis Guenon, of Libourne, France. Translated by Nicholas P. 
Trist, Esq. ; with Introduction, Remarks and Observations on the Cow and the Dairy, 
by John S. Skinner. Illustrated with numerous Engravings. Neatly done up in paper 
covers, 37 cts. 

HERBERT'S HINTS TO HORSE-KEEPERS, ------125 

Complete Manual for Horsemen ; Embracing : 

How to Breed a Horse. How to Physio a Horse. 

How to Buy a Horse. (Allopathy and Homeopathy. 

How to Break a Horse. How to Groom a Horse. 

How to Use a Horse. How to Drive a Horse. 

How to Feed a Horse. How to Ride a Horse. 

And Chapters on Mules and Ponies. By the late Henry William Herbert (Frank 
Forrester) ; with additions, including Rarey's Method of Horse Taming, and Baucher's 
System of Horsemanship ; also, giving directions for the Selection and Care of Carriages 
and Harness of every description, from the City " Turn Out" to the Farmer's " Gear," 
and a Biography of the eccentric Author. Illustrated throughout. 

HOOPER'S DOG AND GUN, 50 

A Few Loose Chapters on Shooting, among which will be 

found som? Anecdotes and Incidents ; also Instructions for Dog Breaking, and interest- 
ing letters from Sportsmen. By A Bad Shot. 

HYDE'S CHINESE SUGAR CANE, 25 

Containing its History, Mode of Culture, Manufacture of 

the Sugar, &c. ; with Reports of its success in different parts of the United States. 



JBooks published by A. O. Moore & Co. 



JOHNSTON'S (JAMES F. W.) AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY, - 1 25 

Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geology to 

Agriculture. New Edition, with an Appendix, containing the Author's Experiments in 
Practical Agriculture. 

JOHNSTON'S (J. F. W.) ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURAL CHEM- 
ISTRY AND GEOLOGY, 100 

With a Complete Analytical and Alphabetical Index, and an 

American Preface. By Hon. Simon Brown, Editor of the " New England Farmer." 

JOHNSTON'S (J. F. W.) CATECHISM OF AGRICULTURAL CHEM- 
ISTRY AND GEOLOGY, - - 25 

By James F. W. Johnston, Honorary Member of the Eoyal 

Agricultural Society of England, and author of " Lectures on Agricultural Chemistry 
and Geology." With an Introduction hy John Pitkin Norton, M. A., late Professor of 
Scientific Agriculture in Yale College. With Notes and Additions by the Author, pre- 
pared expressly for this edition, and an Appendix compiled by the Superintendent of 
Education in Nova Scotia. Adapted to the use of Schools. 

LANGSTROTH (REV. L. L.) ON THE HIVE AND HONEY BEE, - 1 25 

A Practical Treatise on the Hive and Honey Bee, Third 

edition, enlarged and illustrated with numerous engravings. This Work is, without a 
doubt, the best work on the Bee published in any language, whether we consider its 
scientific accuracy, the practical instructions it contains, or the beauty and completeness 
of its illustrations. 

LEUCHARS' HOW TO BUILD AND VENTILATE HOTHOUSES, - 1 25 

A Practical Treatise on the Construction, Heating and 

Ventilation of Hothouses, including Conservatories, Greenhouses. Graperies and other 
kinds of Horticultural Structures ; with Practical Directions for their Management, in 
regard to Light, Heat and Air. Illustrated with numerous engravings. By P. B. 
Leuchars, Garden Architect. 

LIEBIG'S (JUSTUS) FAMILIAR LECTURES ON CHEMISTRY, - 50 

And its relation to Commerce, Physiology, and Agriculture. 

Edited by John Gardener, M. D., 

LINSLEY'S MORGAN HORSES, - - 1 00 

A Premium Essay on the Origin, History, and Characteristics 

of this remarkable American Breed of Horses ; tracing the Pedigree from the original 
Justin Morgan, through the most noted of his progeny, down to the present time. 
With numerous portraits. To which are added Hints for Breeding, Breaking and Gene- 
ral Use and Management of Horses, with practical Directions for Training them for 
Exhibition at Agricultural Fairs. By D. C. Ltnslet, Editor of the American Stock 
Journal. 



MOORE'S RURAL HAND BOOKS, 1 25 

First Series, containing Treatises on — 

The Horse, The Pests of the Farm, 

The Hog, Domestic Fowls, and 

The Honey Bee, The Cow. 

Second Series, containing— - 1 25 

Every Lady her own Flower Gardener, Essay on Manures, 
Elements of Agriculture, American Kitchen Gardener, 

Bird Fancier, American Rose Culturist. 

Third Series, containing — - 1 25 

Miles on the Horse's Foot, Vine-Dresser's Manual, 

The Rabbit Fancier, Bee-Keeper's Chart, 

Weeks on Bees, Chemistry Made Easy. 

Fourth Series, containing — - - 1 25 

Persoz on the Vine, Hooper's Dog and Gun, 

Ltkbig's Familiar Letters, Skillful Housewtfk, 

Browne's Memoirs of Indian Corn. 



Books 2)itbUshed by A. O. Moore & Co. 

MINER'S BEE-KEEPER'S MANUAL, - - - - - - 1 00 

Being a Practical Treatise on the History and Domestic 

Economy of the Honey Bee, embracing a Full Illustration of the whole subject, with 
the Most Approved Methods of Managing this Insect, through every branch of its 
Culture ; the result of many years' experience. Illustrated with many engravings 
By T. B. Miner. 

MILES ON THE HORSE'S FOOT AND HOW TO KEEP IT SOUND, 50 

With Cuts, Illustrating the Anatomy of the Foot, and contain- 
ing valuable Hints on Shoeing and Stable Management, in Health and in Disease. By 
Wm. Miles. 

MELBURN ON THE COW AND DAIRY HUSBANDRY, - - - 25 
By M. M. Milburn, and revised by H. D. Richardson and Ambrose 

Stevens. With illustrations. 

MUNNS (B.) PRACTICAL LAND DRAINER, 50 

Being a Treatise on Draining Land, in which the Most Ap- 
proved Systems of Drainage are Explained, and their Differences and Comparative 
Merits Discussed ; with full Directions for the Cutting and Making of Drains, with 
Remarks upon the various materials of which they may be constructed. With many 
illustrations. By B. Munn, Landscape Gardener. 

NASH'S (J. A.) PROGRESSIVE FARMER, 60 

A Scientific Treatise on Agricultural Chemistry, the G-e- 

ology of Agriculture, on Plants and Animals, Manures and Soils, applied to Practical 
Agriculture ; with a Catechism of Scientific and Practical Agriculture. By J. A. Nash. 

NEDCL'S PRACTICAL FRUIT, FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN- 
ER'S COMPANION, 1 00 

With a Calendar. By Patrick Neill, Secretary of the Royal 

Caledonian Horticultural Society. Adapted to the United States from the fourth 
edition, revised and improved by the Author. Edited by G. Emerson, M. D., Editor of 
" The American Farmer's Encyclopedia." With Notes and Additions by R. G. Pardee, 
author of " Manual of the Strawberry Culture." With illustrations. 

NORTON'S (JOHN. P.) ELEMENTS OF SCIENTIFIC AGRICULTURE, 60 

Or, the Connection between Science and the Art of Practical 

Farming. Prize Essay of the New York State Agricultural Society. By John P. Nor- 
ton, M. A., Professor of Scientific Agriculture in Yale College. Adapted to the use of 
Schools. 

OLCOTT'S SORGHO AND IMPHEE, THE CHINESE AND AFRICAN 

SUGAR CANES, 1 00 

A Complete Treatise upon their Origin and Varieties, Culture 

and Uses, their value as a Forage Crop, and Directions for making Sugar, Molasses, 
Alcohol, Sparkling and Still Wines, Beer, Cider, Vinegar, Paper, Starch and Dye Stuffs. 
Fully illustrated with Drawings of Approved Machinery ; with an Appendix by Leonard 
Wrat, of Caffraria, and a Description of his Patented Process of Crystallizing the Juico 
of the Imphee ; with the Latest American Experiments. By Henry S. Olcott. 

PARDEE (R. G.) ON STRAWBERRY CULTURE, ----- 60 

A Complete Manual for the Cultivation of the Strawberry ; 

with a Description of the Best Varieties. 

Also notices of the Raspberry, Blackberry, Currant, Gooseberry and Grape ; with 
Directions for their Cultivation, and the Selection of the Best Varieties. " Every process 
here recommended has been proved, the plans of others tried, and the result is here 
given." With a Valuable Appendix, containing the observations and experience of some 
of the most successful cultivators of these fruits in our country. 

PEDDERS' (JAMES) FARMERS' LAND MEASURER, - - - - 50 

Or Pocket Companion ; Showing at one view the Contents of 

any Piece of 1-and, from Dimensions taken in Yards. With a Set of Useful Agricultural 



8 Boohs published by A. O. Moore & Co. 

PERSOZ' CULTURE OF THE VINE, 25 

A New Process for the Culture of the Vine, by Persoz, Pro- 



• of the Faculty of Sciences of Strasbourg ; Directing Professor of the School of Phar- 
macy of the same city. Translated by J. O'C. Barclay, Surgeon U. S. N. 

PHELPS' BEE KEEPER'S CHART, 25 

Being a Brief Practical Treatise on the Instinct, Habits and 

Management of the Honey Bee, in all its various branches, the result of many years' 
practical experience, whereby the author has been enabled to divest the subject of 
much that has been considered mysterious and difficult to overcome, and render it 
more sure, profitable and interesting to every one, than it has heretofore been. By E. 
W. Phelps. 

QUINSY'S MYSTERIES OF BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED, - - 1 00 

Being a Complete Analysis of the Whole Subject, Consisting 

of the Natural History of Bees ; Directions for obtaining the Greatest Amount of Pure 
Surplus Honey with the least possible expense ; Remedies for Losses Given, and the 
Science of Luck fully illustrated ; the result of more than twenty years' experience in 
extensive Apiaries. By M. Qtxinby. 

RANDALL'S (H. S.) SHEEP HUSBANDRY, 1 25 

With an Account of the Different Breeds, and general direc- 
tions in regard to Summer and Winter Management, Breeding and the Treatment of 
Diseases, with Portraits and other engravings. By Henry S. Randall. 

REEMELLN'S (CHAS.) VINE DRESSER'S MANUAL, - - - 50 

An Illustrated Treatise on Yinetards and Wine-Making, 

containing full Instructions as to Location and Soil, Preparation of Ground, Selection and 
Propagation of Vines, the Treatment of Young Vineyards, Trimming and Training the 
Vines, Manures and the Making of Wine. 

RICHARDSON ON HOGS, 25 

Their Origin, Varieties and Management, with a View to Profit 

and Treatment under Disease ; also, plain Directions relative to the Most Approved 
Modes of Preserving their Flesh. By H. D. Richardson, author of " The Hive and the 
Honey Bee," &c, &c. With illustrations. 

RICHARDSON ON THE HIVE AND THE HONEY BEE, - - - 25 
With Plain Directions for Obtaining a Considerable Annual 

Income from this branch of Rural Economy ; also, an Account of the Diseases of Bees 
and their Remedies, and Remarks as to their Enemies, and the best mode of protecting 
the Hives from their attacks. By H. D. Richardson. With illustrations. 

RICHARDSON ON DOMESTIC FOWLS, 25 

Their Natural History, Breeding, Bearing, and General 

Management. By H. D. Richardson. With illustrations. 

RICHARDSON ON THE HORSE, 25 

Their Origin and Varieties ; with Plain Directions as to the 

Breeding, Rearing and General Management, with Instructions as to the Treatment of 
Disease. Handsomely illustrated. By H. D. Richardson. 

RICHARDSON ON THE PESTS OF THE FARM, - - - - 25 

With Instructions for their Extirpation ; being a Manual of 

Plain Directions for the Certain Destruction of every description of Vermin. With 
numerous illustrations on Wood. 

RICHARDSON ON DOGS ; THEIR ORIGIN AND VARIETIES, - 50 

Directions as to their General Management. With numerous 

Original Anecdotes. Also, Complete Instructions as to Treatment under Disease. By H. 
D. Richardson. Illustrated with numerous wood engravings. 
This is not only a cheap, but one of the best works ever published on the Dog. 

SCHENCK'S GARDENER'S TEXT BOOK, 50 

Containing Directions for the Formation and Management 

of the Kitchen Garden, the Culture and Use of Vegetables, Fruits and Medicinal Herbs. 



Books published by A. (). Moore & Co. 



SHEPHERD'S OWN BOOK, 2 00 

With an Account of the Different Breeds, Diseases and Man- 

ageinent of Sheep, and General Directions in regard to Summer and Winter Management, 
Breeding and the Treatment of Diseases ; with illustrative engravings by Youatt & 
Rakdah.; embracing Skinner's Notes. on the Breed and Management of Sheep in the 
United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool. 

STEWART'S STABLE BOOK, 1 00 

A Treatise on the Management of Horses, in Relation to 

Stabling, Grooming, Feeding, Watering and Working, Construction of Stables, Ventila- 
tion, Appendages of Stables, Management of the Feet, aud of Diseased and Defective 
Horses. By John Stewart, Veterinary Surgeon. With Notes and Additions, adapting 
it to American Food and Climate. By A. B. Allen, Editor of the American Agriculturist. 

STBAY LEAVES FROM THE BOOK OF NATURE, - - - - 1 00 

By M. Schele De Vere, of the University of Virginia. 

Contexts : I. Only a Pebble. 

H. Nature in Motion. 
ILL The Ocean and its Life. 
P7. A Chat about Plants. 
V. Younger Years of a Plant. 
VI. Later Years of a Plant. 
Vn . Plant Mummies. 
VLTL Unknown Tongues. 
LX. A Trip to the Moon. 

STEPHENS' (HENRY) BOOK OF THE FARM, 4 00 

A Complete Guide to the Farmer, Steward, Plowman, Cattle- 

man, Shepherd, Field Worker and Dairy Maid. By Henry Stephens. With Four Hun- 
dred aud Fifty illustrations ; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, &c, by 
J. S. Skinner. Really one of the best books a farmer can possess. 

SKILLFUL HOUSEWIFE, 50 

Or Complete Guide to Domestic Cookery, Taste, Comfort, and 

Economy, embracing 659 Recipes pertaining to Household Duties, the Care of Health, 
Gardening, Birds, Education of Children, &c, &c. By Mrs. L. G. Abell. 

SKINNER'S ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURE, 25 

Adapted to the Use of American Farmers. By F. G. Skinner* 

SMITH'S (C. H. J.) LANDSCAPE GARDENING, PARKS AND 

PLEASURE GROUNDS, 1 25 

With Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public 

Parks and Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape Gardener and Garden Archi- 
tect. With Notes and Additions by Lewis F. Allen, author of " Rural Architecture." 

THAER'S (ALBERT D.) AGRICULTURE, 2 00 

The Principles of Agriculture, by Albert D. Thaer ; Trans- 
lated by William Shaw and Cuthbert W. Johnson, Esq. , F. R. S. With a Memoir of 
the Author. 1 vol. 8vo. 

This work is regarded, by those who are competent to judge, as one of the most 
valuable works that has ever appeared on the subject of Agriculture. At the same time 
that it is eminently practical, it is philosophical, and, even to the general reader, re- 
markably entertaining. 

THOMAS' (J. J.) FARM IMPLEMENTS, 1 00 

And the Principles of- their Construction and Use ; an Ele- 

mentary and familiar Treatise on Mechanics and Natural Philosophy, as applied to the 
ordinary practices of Agriculture. With 200 illustrations. 

THOMPSON (R. D.) ON THE FOOD OF ANIMALS, - - - 75 

Experimental Researches on the Food of Animals and the 

Fattening of Cattle ; with Remarks on the Food of Man. Based upon Experiments under- 
taken by order of the British Government, by Robert Dundas Thompson. M. D., 
Lecturer on Practical Chemistry, University of Glasgow. 



10 Books published by A. O. Moore & Co. 

THE ROSE CULTURIST, 50 

Being a Practical Treatise on the Propagation, Cultivation, 

and Management of the Rose in all seasons ; with a List of Choice and Approved Varie- 
ties, adapted to the Climate- of the United States ; to which is added full directions for 
the Treatment of the Dahlia. Illustrated by engravings. 

TOPHAM'S CHEMISTRY MADE EASY, 25 

For the Use of Farmers. By J. Topham. 

TURNER'S COTTON PLANTER'S MANUAL, - - . - - - - 1 00 

Being a Compilation op Facts from the Best Authorities on 

the Culture of Cotton, its Natural History, Chemical Analysis, Trade and Consumption, 
and embracing a History of Cotton and the Cotton Gin. By J. A. Turner. 

WARDER'S (J. A.) HEDGES AND EVERGREENS, - - - - 1 00 

A Complete Manual for the Cultivation, Pruning and Man- 

agement of all Plants suitable for American Hedging, especially the Maclura or Osage 
Orange. Fully illustrated with engravings of plants, implements and processes. To 
which is added a Treatise on Evergreens, their different Varieties, their propagation, 
transplanting and Culture in the United States. 

WARTNG'S ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURE, ----- 75 

A Book for Young Farmers, with Questions for the use of 

Schools. 

WEEKS (JOHN M.) ON BEES-A MANUAL, 50 

Or, an Easy Method of Managing Bees in the most profit- 

able manner to their Owner ; with Infallible Rules to Prevent their Destruction by the 
Moth. With an Appendix, by Wooster A. Flanders. 

WHITE'S (W. N.) GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH, - - - - 1 25 

Or, the Kitchen and Fruit Garden, with the Best Methods 

for their Cultivation ; together with Hints upon Landscape and Flower Gardening ; con- 
taining Modes of Culture and Descriptions of the Species and Varieties of the Culinary 
Vegetables, Fruit Trees and Fruits, and a Select List of Ornamental Trees and Plants, 
Adapted to the States of the Union South of Pennsylvania, with Gardening Calendars for 
the same. By Wm. N. White, of Athens, Georgia. 

Y0UATT AND MARTIN ON CATTLE, 1 25 

Being a Treatise on their Breeds, Management, and Diseases, 

comprising a Full History of the Various Races ; their Origin, Breeding and Merits ; 
their capacity for Beef and Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. L. Martin. The whole form- 
ing a Complete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 
illustrations. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. 

Y0UATT ON THE HORSE, 1 25 

YOUATT ON THE STRUCTURE AND DISEASES OF THE HORSE, with 
their Remedies ; also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Smiths, &c. Edited by W. 
C. Spooner, M.R.C.V.S. With an Aecount of the Breeds in the United States, by Henry 
S. Randall. 

YOUATT ON SHEEP, - 75 

Their Breed, Management and Diseases, with Illustrative En- 
gravings ; to which are added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in the 
United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia. By Wm. Youatt. 

YOUATT AND MARTIN ON THE HOG, 75 

A Treatise on the Breeds, Management, and Medical Treat- 

ment of Swine, with Directions for Salting Pork and Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. 
Youatt, V. S., and W. C. L. Martin. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. Illustrated with 
engravings drawn from life. 









L1BRA RY OF CONGRESS 



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